Although TP spent only two days exploring the island of Iona or ‘I-Colm Cille’, his account of his visit to ‘the most celebrated of the Hebrides’, on 9th-11th July 1772, is one of the most erudite and extensively researched sections of Tour in Scotland 1772, as befits a site of such major historical importance. He draws on several earlier accounts of Iona, its Abbey, and the life of St Columba, either in print or manuscript, including Bede’s Ecclesiastical History; Dean Munro’s Description of the Western Islands of Scotland (1549); Dr John Fraser’s anonymous ‘Short Description of I. or Iona 1693’;1 Edward Stillingfleet’s Origenes Britannicae (1685); Martin Martin’s Description of the Western Islands of Scotland (1695); William Sacheverell’s Account of the Isle of Man…With a Voyage to I-Columb-kill (1702);2 John Campbell’s MS ‘Icolmkill, March 5, 1749’;3 Richard Pococke’s 1760 letter on ‘I-Colm Kill';4 and perhaps most significant, Dr John Walker’s extensive MS ‘History of the Island of Icolumbkill’.5 As well as Fraser’s ‘Short Description’, TP’s footnotes also reference canonical Scottish historians John of Fordun, Hector Boece, and George Buchanan, as well as standard authorities like Camden, Bishop Usher, Sir David Dalrymple, Torfaeus, Sir George Mackenzie, and Edward Llyud. Another important contemporary source, especially on St Columba, was (again) Dr John Macpherson’s Critical Dissertations on the Ancient Caledonians (London, 1768). The major mediaeval text on Iona and St Columba, however, Adomnán’s Life of Saint Columba (probably written between 697 and 700 by the 9th Abbot of Iona) seems to have been known to TP only via secondary sources, including Macpherson, who does cite Adomnán in Critical Dissertations.6 Dr John Walker had also read Adomnán (in Canisius’s abridged Latin version), writing that ‘wherever he is led to mention the topography of Icolumbkil, or that of the adjacent islands, he speaks with the accuracy of a person who has lived in it’.7 TP also received information on Iona from his travelling companion Dr John Stuart of Killin in letters dated 31 Dec 1773 (now lost) and 7th Jan 1774 (0429 [external link]). Joseph Banks had written a full account in his journal of his visit to Iona just a month before TP (Banks’s Journals, pp. 210-11). Banks’s ‘Account of Staffa’, excerpted from the MS journal, was printed in the following section of Voyage to the Hebrides, so it is likely that TP had also read his account (after all, TP’s book was dedicated to Joseph Banks). One other possible contemporary source needs to be considered. In his magisterial essay ‘Iona in 1771: Gaelic Tradition and Visitors’ Experience’, Richard Sharpe redacts an anonymous, Gaelic-speaking visitor’s narrative entitled ‘Iona in 1771’ published in the Weekly Magazine and Edinburgh Amusement, on 14, 21, and 28th April 1774, which provided important new information on the island and its antiquities, informed by Gaelic scholarship and local oral tradition, and revealing interesting overlaps with TP’s account. Sharpe tentatively (but incorrectly) attributes it to Rev. Donald MacNicol of Lismore, one of TP’s correspondents. (Dòmhnall Uilleam Stiùbhart has recently established that the author was in fact Mr John MacGilvray, a tutor and school-master from nearby Penny Ghael in Mull, and a graduate of Aberdeen University.)8 TP’s Tour in Scotland 1772 Part I was published by John Monk in Chester on 19 May 1774, so was in proofs when ‘Iona in 1771’ was published in the Weekly Magazine, too late to have influenced TP’s account. However, as Sharpe notes, similarities in contemporary accounts of Iona can be attributed to information received by visitors from the same local guide, who made a business of showing visitors around the antiquities, his account coloured by local oral tradition as well as more scholarly sources. Sharpe tentatively identifies the guide who conducted Pennant, Banks and Boswell and Johnson round the ruins of Iona in the years 1772-3 as the assistant schoolmaster, a son of Neil Macdonald, ‘chief man’ of the island and the Duke of Argyll’s tenant.9 Although representing the densest concentration of antiquarian information in Tour 72, TP also comments in characteristic fashion on the topography, natural history, and social life of 18th century Iona. Like many other contemporary visitors, he is scathing about the poverty and lack of education of the island’s 150 or so inhabitants: ‘the most stupid and most lazy of all the islanders; yet many of them boast of their descent from the companions of St Columbus’. (p. 243)
Anchoring in the Sound of Iona, his party take a small boat to the Bay of Martyrs, just south of the current ferry pier, and then pitch a day-tent a quarter of a mile to the south, providing a base for exploring the whole island. Proceeding northwards through the town of fifty or so mean thatched houses, they first visit the ruins of the Nunnery, where they pay ‘a listless fellow’ to shovel away cattle dung so they can read the inscription on the grave of Prioress Anna Maclean, Iona’s last prioress. (Later damaged by falling masonry, the modern Iona museum has recently used Moses Griffith’s drawing of the gravestone to reconstruct part of her tombstone). (p. 247). Proceeding past Maclean’s Cross, they visit St Oran’s burial ground, the sepulchre of 48 Scottish monarchs, although many of the gravestones were overgrown with butterburs and flowering weeds. TP writes whimisically ‘of these celebrated tombs we could discover nothing more than certain slight remains, that were built in a ridged form, and arched within; but the inscriptions were lost’. (p. 249) Nevertheless (in contrast to Dr Johnson, visiting the following summer) with the assistance of John Stuart, TP is able to reconstruct some of the carved letters, including ‘two with galic inscriptions’ (p. 249). Following an important description of St Oran’s chapel and the gravestones within, the party proceed to visit the ‘cathedral’, ruined and roofless, unlike the handsomely reconstructed Iona Abbey standing today. A detailed account of the Abbey’s architectural features, its white marble altar, and carved gravestones follow, including TP’s reflections on the ecclesiastical authority exercised by the Abbot. Ascending ‘the Abbot’s mount’ TP contemplates the destruction of Iona’s ancient library, the desecration of many of its crosses and other monuments at the time of the Reformation, and the fact that today ‘this once celebrated seat of learning is destitute even of a school-master’. The next day, the party cross the rocky southern reach of the island to visit Port a’ Curaich, the landing place of Columba, and the adjacent Port an Fhir-bhréige; on their return they view the Cnoc nan Aingeal, where the Michaelmas ‘riding day’ is still held annually to bless the islanders’ cattle. Before concluding his account, TP recommends the prospect from Dùn-I, Iona’s highest eminence, although it’s not clear whether he personally made the ascent. The following morning, July 11th, the party weigh anchor at dawn, sailing up the west coast of Mull, admiring the Treshnish Isles, Ulva and Gometra, and coasting the basaltic island of Staffa: unfortunately, Capt Thompson judged that conditions were unsafe to land on that island, so the Lady Frederick Campbell sailed on for Canna. TP concludes with a witty aside (cut from the 2nd edition) where he offers his readers Banks’s description of Staffa in compensation, using an expression from Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels (in the Luggnagg language of Laputa) ‘My tongue is in the mouth of my friend’. This is replaced in the 1776 edition with ‘it is a great consolation to me, that I am able to lay before the public a most accurate account communicated to me through the friendship of Mr Banks’ (Tour 72, Pt 1, 2nd ed, p. 299).
About eight of the clock in the morning very narrowly escape striking on the rock Bonirevor,1 apparent at this time by the breaking of a wave: our master was at some distance in his boat, in search of sea fowl, but alarmed with the danger of his vessel, was hastening to its relief; but the tide conveyed us out of reach of the rock, and saved him the trouble of landing us; for the weather was so calm as to free us from any apprehensions about our lives. After tiding for three hours, anchor in the sound of Jona, in three fathoms water, on a white sandy bottom; but the safest anchorage is on the East side, between a little isle and that of Mull:2 this sound is three miles long and one broad, shallow and in some parts dry at the ebb of spring-tides: is bounded on the East by the island of Mull; on the West, by that of Jona, the most celebrated of the Hebrides.
Multitudes of gannets were now fishing here: they precipitated themselves from a vast height, plunged on their prey at lest two fathom deep, and took to the air again as soon as they emerged. Their sense of seeing must be exquisite; but they are often deceived, for Mr. Thompson informed me, that he had fre-
quently taken them by placing a herring on a hook, and sinking it a fathom deep, which the gannet plunges for and is taken.
The view of the Jona was very picturesque: the East side, or that which bounds the sound, exhibited a beautiful variety; an extent of plain, a little elevated above the water, and almost covered with the ruins of the sacred buildings, and with the remains of the old town, still inhabited.3 Beyond these the island rises into little rocky hills, with narrow verdant hollows between (for they merit not the name of vallies) and numerous enough for every recluse to take his solitary walk, undisturbed by society.
The island belongs to the parish of Ross, in Mull;4 is three miles long, and one broad; the East side mostly flat; the middle rises into small hills; the West side very rude and rocky: the whole is a singular mixture of rock and fertility.
The soil is a compound of sand and comminuted sea shells, mixed with black loam; is very favorable to the growth of bear, natural clover, crowsfoot and daisies. It is in perpetual tillage, and is ploughed thrice before the sowing: the crops at this time made a promising appearance, but the seed was committed to the ground at very different times; some, I think, about the beginning of May, and some not three weeks ago. Oats do not succeed here; but flax and potatoes come on very well. I am informed that the soil in Col, Tir-I, and North and South Uist, is similar to that in Jona.
The tenants here run-rig,5 and have the pasturage in common. It supports about a hundred and eight head of cattle, and about five hundred sheep. There is no heath in this island: cattle unused to that plant give bloody milk; which is the case with the cattle of Jona transported to Mull, where that vegetable abounds; but the cure is soon effected by giving them plenty of water.6
The number of inhabitants is about a hundred and fifty:7 the most stupid and the most lazy of all the islanders; yet many of them boast of their descent from the companions of St. Columba.8
A few of the more common birds frequent this island: wild geese breed here, and the young are often reared and tamed by the natives.
The beautiful Sea-Bugloss 9 makes the shores gay with its glaucous leaves and purple flowers. The Eryngo, or sea-holly,10 is frequent; and the fatal Belladonna 11 is found here.
The Granites durus rubescens,12 the same with the Egyptian, is found in Nuns-isle,13 and on the coast of Mull: a Breccia quartzose,14 of a beautiful kind, is common; and the rocks to the South of the bay of Martyrs is formed of the Swedish Trapp ? [sic] useful to glass makersi.15
Jona derives its name from a Hebrew word, signifying a dove, in allusion to the name of the great saint, Columba, the founder of its fame.16 This holy man, instigated by his zeal, left his native country, Ireland, in the year 565, with the pious design of preaching the gospel to the Picts.17 It appears that he left his native soil with warm resentment, vowing never to make a settlement within sight of that hated island. He made his first trial at Oransay,18 and on finding that place too near to Ireland, succeeded to his wish at Hy,19 for that was the name of Jona at the time of his arrival. He repeated here the experiment on several hills, erecting on each a heap of stones; and that which he last ascended is to this day called Carnan-chul-reh-EIRINN,20 or, the eminence of the back turned to Ireland.
Columba was soon distinguished by the sanctity of his manners: a
miracle that he wrought so operated on the Pictish king, Bradeus, that he immediately made a present of the little isle to the saint. It seems that his majesty had refused Columba an audience; and even proceeed so far as to order the palace gates to be shut against him; but the saint, by the power of his word, instantly caused them to fly open.21
As soon as he was in possession of Jona he founded a cell of monks, borrowing his institutions from a certain oriental monastic orderii.22 It is said that the first religious were canons regular;23 of whom the founder was the first abbot: and that his monks, till the year 716, differed from those of the church of Rome, both in the observation of Easter, and in the clerical tonsure.24 Columba led here an exemplary life, and was highly respected for the sanctity of his manners for a considerable number of years. He is the first on record who had the faculty of second-sight, for he told the victory of Aidan over the Picts and Saxons on the very instant it happened.25 He had the honor of burying in his island, Convalius and Kinnatil, two kings of Scotland, and of crowning a third. At length, worn out with age, he died, in Jona, in the arms of his disciples;26 was interred there, but (as the Irish pretend) in after-times translated to Down; where, according to the epitaph, his remains were deposited with those of St. Bridget and St. Patric.
After the death of St. Columba, the island received the name of Y-columb-cill, or, the isle of the cell of Columba. In process of time the island itself was personified, and by a common blunder in early times converted into a saint, and worshipped under the title of St. Columb-killa.
The religious continued unmolested during two centuries: but in the year 807 were attacked by the Danes,30 who with their usual barbarity, put part of the monks to the sword, and obliged the remainder, with their abbot Cellach, to seek safety by flying from their rage. The monastery remained depopulated for seven years; but on the retreat of the Danes received a new order, being then peopled by the Cluniacs,31 who continued there till the dissolution when the revenues were united to the see of Argyle.
Took boat and landed on the spot called the Bay of Martyrs: the place where the bodies of those who were to be interred in this holy ground, were received, during the period of superstition.
Walked about a quarter of a mile to the South, in order to fix on a convenient spot for pitching a rude tent, formed of oars and sails, as our day residence, during our stay on the island.
Observe a little beyond, an oblong inclosure, bounded by a stone dike, called Clachnan Druinach, and supposed to have been the burial place of the Druids, for bones of various sizes are found there. I have no doubt but that Druidism was the original religion of this place;32 yet I suppose this to have been rather the common cemetery of the people of the town, which lies almost close to the Bay of Martyrs.
Having settled the business of our tent, return through the town, consisting at present of about fifty houses, mostly very mean, thatched with straw of bear pulled up by the roots, and bound tight on the roof with ropes made of heath. Some of
the houses that lie a little beyond the rest seemed to have been better constructed than the others, and to have been the mansions of the inhabitants when the place was in a flourishing state, but at present are in a very ruinous condition.
Visit every place in the order that they lay from the village, The first was the ruin of the nunnery,33 filled with canonesses of St. Augustine, and consecrated to St. Oran. They were permitted to live in community for a considerable time after the reformation, and wore a white gown; and above it a rotchet34 of fine linnen iv.
The church35 was fifty-eight feet by twenty: the roof of the east end is entire, is a pretty vault made of very thin stones, bound together by four ribs meeting in the centre. The floor is covered some feet thick with cow-dung; this place being at present the common shelter for the cattle; and the islanders are too lazy to remove this fine manure, the collection of a century, to enrich their grounds.36
With much difficulty, by virtue of fair words, and a bribe, prevale on one of these listless fellows to remove a great quantity of this dung-hill; and by that means once more expose to light the tomb of the last prioress.37 Her figure is cut on the face of the stone; an angel on each side supports her head; and above them is a little plate and a comb. The prioress occupies only one half of the surface: the other is filled with the form of the virgin MARY, with head crowned and mitred; the child in her arms and, to denote her Queen of Heaven, a sun and moon appear above. At her feet is this address, from the prioress: Sancta MARIA ora pro me.38 And round the lady is inscribed, Hic jacet Domina Anna Donaldi Terletiv filia quondam Priorissa de JONA quae obiit an~o mo do ximo ejus animam ALTISSIMO commendamus.39
Mr. Stuart, who some time past visited this place,40 informed me, that at that time he observed this fragment of another inscription: Hic jacet Mariota filia Johan: Lauchlani Domini de...41
Besides this place of sepulture, was another on the outside, allotted for the nuns; where, at a respectable distance from the virtuous recluses, lies in solitude, a frail sister.
This nunnery could never have been founded (as some assert) in the days of St. Columba, who was no admirer of the fair sex: in fact, he held them in such abhorrence, that he detested all cattle on their account, and would not permit a cow to come within sight of his sacred walls; because, 'Sfar am bi bo, bi'dh bean, 'Sfar am bi bean, bi'dh mallacha: "Where there is a cow, there must be a woman; and where there is a woman, there must be mischief."42
Advance from hence along a broad paved way, which is continued in a line from the nunnery to the cathedral: another branches from it to the Bay of Martyrs: and a third, narrower than the others, points towards the hills.43
On this road is a large and elegant cross, called that of Macleane, one of three hundred and sixty, that were standing in this island at the reformationvi, but immediately after were almost entirely demolished by order of a provincial assembly, held in the island. It seems to have been customary in Scotland for individuals to erect crosses, probably in consequence of some vow, or perhaps out of a vain hope of perpetuating their memory.
Arrive at Reilig ourain,44 or the burying-place of Oran: a vast enclosure; the great place of interment for the number of monarchs who were deposited here; and for the potentates of every isle, and their lineage; for all were ambitious of lying in this holy spot. The place is in a manner filled with grave-stones, but so
overgrown with weeds, especially with the common butter-bur,45 that very few are at present to be seen.
I was very desirous of viewing the tombs of the kings, described by the DEAN of the isles, and from him by Buchanan: the former saysvii that in his time there were three, built in form of little chapels: on one was inscribed, Tumulus Regum Scotiae.46 In this were deposited the remains of forty-eight Scottish monarchs, beginning with Fergus II. and ending with the famous Macbeth: for his successor, Malcolm Canmore, decreed, for the future, Dumferline to be the place of royal sepultureviii.47 Of the Scottish monarchs interred in Jona, sixteen are pretended to be of the race of Alpin, and are styled, Righrid Ailpeanach.48
The next was inscribed, Tumulus REGUM Hiberniae, containing four Irish monarchs; and the third, Tumulus REGUM Norwegiae, containing eight Norwegian princes, or more probably vice-roys, of the Hebrides, while they were subject to that crown.50
That so many crowned heads, from different nations, should prefer this as the place of their interment, is said to have been owing to an antient prophecy:
But of these celebrated tombs we could discover nothing more than certain slight remains, that were built in a ridged form, and arched within; but the inscriptions were lost. These are called Jomaire nan righ, or, The ridge of the kings. Among these stones were found two with galic inscriptions, and the form of a cross carved on each: the words on one were, Cros Domhail fat'asich, or, The cross of Donald Long-shank:52 the other signified the cross of Urchvine o Guin.53 The letters were those of the most antient Irish alphabet, exhibited in Vallancey's Irish grammar.
I am indebted to Mr. Stuart for these three inscriptions, which he met with in his former voyage; arriving before the growth of the all-covering weeds.57 Mr. Frazier,58 son to the DEAN of the isles, informed Mr. Sacheverel, governor of the isle of Man, who visited Jona in 1688, that his father had collected there three hundred inscriptions, and presented them to the Earl of Argyle; which were afterwards lost in the troubles of the family.59
The chapel of St. Oran stands in this space, which legend reports to have been the first building attempted by St. Columba: by the working of some evil spirit, the walls fell down as fast as they were built up.
After some consultation it was pronounced, that they never would be permanent till a human victim was buried alive: Oran, a companion of the saint, generously offered himself, and was interred accordingly: at the end of three days St. Columba had the curiosity to take a farewel look at his old friend, and caused the earth to be removed: to the surprize of all beholders, Oran started up, and began to reveal the secrets of his prison-house; and particularly declared, that all that had been said of hell was a mere
Boethius x gives us reason to suppose, before this period, Jona to have been the habitation of the weird sisters and Cacodaemons;61 for King Natholocus, like Saul of old,62 consulted in this island an old witch, of uncommon fame: no wonder, therefore, that the prince of darkness should be interested in the overthrow of edifices that were to put an end to his influence.
In Oran's chapel are several tombs, and near it many more: within, beneath a recess formed with three neat-pointed arches,63 is a tombstone with a ship and several ornaments. I forget whether the sails were furled: in that case the deceased was descended from the antient kings of man 64 of the Norwegian xi race, who used those arms.
Near the South end is the tomb of the abbot Mac-kinnon's father, inscribed, Haec est crux Lauchlani Mc. Fingon et ejus fili Johannis Abbatis de HY. facta an. Dom. Mo++ CCCCLXXXIX.65
Another of Macdonald of Ilay and Cantyre, commonly called Innus, or Angus oig,66the chief of the name. He was a strong friend to Robert Bruce, and was with him at the battle of Banockbourne. His inscription is, Hic jacet corpus Angusii filii Domini Angusii Mc. Domhnill de Ilay.67
In another place lies the grave-stone of Ailean Nan Sop, a Ceatharnarch,68 or head of a party, of the name of Macleane; from whom is descended the family of Torloisg.69 The stone is ornamented with carving and a ship.70
sword. And a third, of the same name of the family of Lochbuy:73 his right hand grasps a pistol, his left a sword. Besides these, are numbers of other antient heroes, whose very names have perished, and they deprived of their expected glory: their lives were like the path of an arrow, closed up and lost as soon as past; and probably in those times of barbarism, as fatal to their fellow-creatures.
About seventy feet South of the chapel is a red unpolished stone; beneath which lies a nameless King of France.74 But the memory of the famous old doctor of Mull has had a better fate, and is preserved in these words: Hic jacet Johannes Betonus Maclenorum familia, medicus, qui mortuus est 19 Novembris 1657. AEt. 63. Donaldus Betonus fecit. 1674.
Ecce cadit jaculo victricis mortu iniquae; Qui toties alios solverat ipse mali Soli DEO Gloria.75
A little North-West of the door is the pedestal of a cross: on it are certain stones, that seem to have been the supports of a tomb. Numbers who visit this island (I suppose the ELECT impatient for the consummation of all things) think it incumbent or them to turn each of these thrice round, according to the course of the sun. They are called Clacha-bràth;76 for it is thought that the bràth, or end of the world, will not arrive till the stone on which they stand is worn through. Originally, says Mr. Sacheverel, here were three noble globes, of white marble, placed on three stone basons, and these were turned round; but the synod ordered them, and sixty crosses, to be thrown into the sea. The present stones are probably substituted in place of these globes.77
The precinct of these tombs was held sacred, and enjoyed the privileges of a Girth, or sanctuary xii. These places of retreat
were by the antient Scotch law, not to shelter indiscriminately every offender, as was the case in more bigotted times in catholic countries: for here all atrocious criminals were excluded; and only the unfortunate delinquent, or the penitent sinner shielded from the instant stroke of rigorous justice. The laws are penned with such humanity and good sense, that the reader cannot by displeased with seeing them in their native simplicityxiii.
'Gif any fleis to HALIE KIRK moved with repentance confesses there that he heavilie sinned, and for the love of GOD is come to the house of GOD for safetie of himself, he sall nocht tine78 life nor limme bot quhat he has taken frae anie man he sall restore same-ikill79 to him, and sall satisfie the King according to the law of the countrie.
And swa sall swere upon the HALIE EVANGELL that there-after he sall never commit reif80 nor theift. Alex. 11. c. 6
If ane manslayer takes himself to the immunitie of the Kirk he sould be admonissed and required to come forth and present himself to the law; to knaw gif the slauchter was committed be forthocht81 felonie or murther.
And gif he be admonissed and will not come furth; fra that time furth in all time thereafter he sal be banished and exiled as ane committer of murther and forethocht felonie; keep and reservand to him the immunitie of the kirk to the whilk he take himself. Rob. 11, c. 9.
Particular care was also taken that they should receive no injury during their retreat: penalties were enacted for even striking, but for the murder of any, 'The King was to have from the slayer twentve nine kyes82 and ane zoung kow; and the offender was also to assithe83 to the friends of the defunct conforme to the laws of the cuntrie. Wil. c. 5.84
The cathedral 85 lies a little to the north of this inclosure: is in the form of a cross. The length from east to west is a hundred and fifteen feet. The breadth twenty three. The length of the transept seventy.86 Over the centre is a handsome tower: on each of which is a window with stone work of different forms in every one.
On the south side of the chancel are some Gothic arches supported by pillars, nine feet eight inches high, including the capitals; and eight feet nine inches in circumference.87 The capitals are quite peculiar; carved round with various superstitious figures, among others is an angel weighing of souls.88
The altar was of white marble veined with grey, and is vulgarly supposed to have reached from side to side of the chancel: but Mr. Sacheverel xiv, who saw it when almost entire, assures us that the size was six feet by four.89
The demolition of this stone was owing to the belief of the superstitious; who were of opinion, that a piece of it conveyed to the possessor success in whatever he undertook. A very small portion is now left; and even that we contributed to diminish.90
Near the altar is the tomb of the abbot Mac-kinnon. His figure lies reumbent, with this inscription round the margin, Hic jacet Johannes Mac-Fingone abbas de Hy, qui obit anno Domini Millessimo quingentessimo cujus animae propitietur Deus altissinus. Amen.91
All the tombs lie East and West; the head to the West; pro-
bably from a superstition that at the general resurrection, they may rise with their faces to the East.94
Among these funereal subjects, the interment (a few years ago) of a female remarkable for her lineage must not be omitted. She was a direct descendant and the last of the Clan an oister, ostiarii, or door-keepers to the monastery. The first of the family came over with Columba, but falling under his displeasure, it was decreed on the imprecation of this irritable saint, that never more than five of his clan should exist at one time; and in consequence when a sixth was born, one of the five was to look for death. This, report says, alway happened till the period that the race was extinguished in this woman.95
It is difficult to say when the present church was built: if we may credit Boethius, it was rebuilt by Malduinus, in the seventh century, out of the ruins of the former.96 But the present structure is far too magnificent for that age. Most of the walls are built with red granite from the Nuns isle in the sound.97
From the south east corner are two parallel walls about twelve feet high, and ten feet distant from each other. At present they are called Dorus tràgh,98 or the door to the shore: are supposed to have been continued from the cathedral to the sea, to have been roofed, and to have formed a covered gallery the whole way.
In the church yard is a fine cross, fourteen feet high, two feet two inches broad, and ten inches thick, made of a single piece of red granite. The pedestal is three feet high.
Near the south east end is Mary's chapel.99 Besides this, we are informed, that there were several others founded by the Scottish monarchs, and the Reguli of the isles.xv
The monastery lies behind the cathedral. It is in a most ruinous state; a small remnant of a cloister is left.100 In a corner are
some black stones,101 held so sacred, but for what reason I am ignorant, that it was customary to swear by them: perhaps from their being neighbors to the tutelar saint,102 whose grave is almost adjacent.
Boethius xvi gives this monastery an earlier antiquity than perhaps it can justly clame. He says that after the defeat of the Scots, at the battle of Munda, A. D. 379: the survivors with all religious fled to this island; and were the original founders of this house.103 But the account given by the venerable Bede is much more probable, that St. Columba was the orignal founder, as has been before related.104
This isle, says the DEAN, hes beine richlie Dotat by the Scotch kings. And mentions several little islands that belonged to it which he calls Soa, Naban, Moroan, Reringe, Inch Kenzie, Eorsay, and Kannay, but if these were all the endowments, they would never serve to lead the religious into the temptations of luxury.105
Columba was the first abbot: he and his successors maintained a jurisdiction over all the other monasteries that branched from this; and over all the monks of this abby that exercised the priestly or even episcopal function in other places. One of the institutes of Loyala seems here to have been very early established, for the eleves of this house seem not to think themselves freed from their vow of obedience to the abbot of Jona. Bede xvii speaks of the singular pre-eminence, and says that the island always had for a governor an Abbot-Presbyter, whose power (by a very uncommon rule) not only every province, but even the bishops themselves, obeyed. From this account, the enemies to episcopacy have inferred, that the rank of bishop was a novelty, in-
troduced into the church in corrupt times; and the authority they assumed was an errant usurpation, since a simple abbot for so considerable a space was permitted to have the superiority.107 In answer to this, archbishop Ussher xviii advances, that the power of the abbot of Jona was only local; and extended only to the bishop who resided there: for after the conquest of the isle of Man by the English, and the division of the see after that event, the bishop of the isles made Jona his residence, which before was in Man.108 But notwithstanding this, the venerable Bede seems to be a stronger authority, than the Ulster annals, quoted by the archbishop, which pretend no more than that a bishop had always resided in Jona, without even an attempt to refute the positive assertion of the most respectable author we have (relating to church matters) in those primitive times.109
North of the monastery is the remains of the bishop's house;110 the residence of the bishops of the isles after the isle of Man was separated from them. This event happened in the time of Edw. I. On their arrival the abbots permitted to them the use of their church, for they never had a cathedral of their own, except that in the isle of Man.111 During the time of the Norwegian reign, which lasted near two hundred years, the bishops were chosen without respect of country, for we find French, Norwegian, English, and Scotch among the prelates; and they were generally, but not always, consecrated at Drontheim.112 This see was endowed with xix thirteen islands;113 but some of them were forced from them by the tyranny of some of the little chieftains; thus for example, Rasa, as the honest DEAN says, was perteining to Mac-Gyllychallan by the sword, and to the bishop of the isles by heritage.114
The title of these prelates, during the conjunction of Man and Sodor, had been universally mistaken, till the explications of that
most ingenious writer, Dr. Macpherson xx: it was always supposed to have been derived from Soder, an imaginary town, either in Man or in Jona: whose derivation was taken from the Greek SOTER or Saviour.115 During the time that the Norwegians were in possession of the isles, they divided them into two parts: the northern, which comprehended all that lay to the North of the point of Arnamurchan, and were called the Nordereys, from Norder North, and ey an island. And the Sudereys took in those that lay to the South of that promontory. This was only a civil division for the sake of governing these scattered dominions with more facility; for a separate viceroy was sent to each, but both were subject to the same jurisdiction civil and ecclesiastical. But as the Sudereys was the most important that had the honor of giving name to the bishoprick, the isle of Man retained both titles, like England unites that of France, notwithstanding many centuries have elapsed since the right of each to the now usurped titles are lost.116
Proceed on our walk. To the west of the convent is the abbot's mount,117 overlooking the whole. Beneath seem to have been the gardens, once well cultivated, for we are told that the monks transplanted from other places herbs both esculent and medicinal.
Beyond the mount are the ruins of a kiln, and a granary: and near it was the mill. The lake or pool118 that served it lay behind; is now drained, and is the turbery,119 the fuel of the natives: it appears to have been once divided, for along the middle runs a raised way, pointing to the hills. They neglect at present the conveniency of a mill, and use only querns.120
North from the granary extends a narrow slat, with a double dike and foss on one side, and a single dike on the other. At the end is a square containing a cairn and surrounded with a stone dike. This
is called a burial place: it must have been in very early times, contemporary with other cairns, perhaps in the days of Druidism. For bishop Pocock mentions, that he had seen two stones seven feet high, with a third laid across on their tops, an evident Cromleh: he also adds, that the Irish name of the island was Inish Drunish;121 which agrees with the account I have somewhere read, that Jona had been the seat of Druids expelled by Columba, who found them there.
Before I quit this height, I must observe, that the whole of their religious buildings were covered on the north side by dikes, as a protection from the northern invaders, who paid little regard the sanctity of their characters.122
The public was greatly interested in the preservation of this place, for it was the repository of most of the antient Scotch recordsxxi. The library here must also have been invaluable, if we can depend upon Boethius, who asserts, that Fergus the II. assisting Alaric the Goth, in the sacking of Rome, brought away as share of the plunder, a chest of books, which he presented to the monastery of Jona.123 Aeneas Sylvius (afterwards Pope Pius II.) 124 intended when he was in Scotland to have visited the library in search of the lost books of Livy,125 but was prevented by the death of the King James I. A small parcel of them were in 1525 brought to Aberdeen xxii, and great pains were taken to unfold them, but through age and the tenderness of the parchment little could be read; but from what the learned were able to make out, the work appeared by the style to have rather been a fragment of Salust than of Livy. But the register and records, of the island, all written on parchment, and probably other more antique and valuable remains, were all destroyed by that worst
At present, this once celebrated seat of learning is destitute of even a school-master; and this seminary of holy men wants even a minister to assist them in the common duties of religion.128
Cross the island over a most fertile elevated tract to the S. West side, to visit the landing place of St. Columba; a small bay, with a pebbly beach, mixed with variety of pretty stones, such as violet-colored Quartz, Nephritic stones,129 and fragments of porphyry granite130 and Zæblitz marble:131 a vast tract near this place was covered with heaps of stones, of unequal sizes: these, as is said were the penances of monks who were to raise heaps of dimensions equal to their crimes: and to judge by some, it is no breach of charity to think there were among them enormous sinners.132
On one side is shewn an oblong heap of earth, the supposed size of the vessel that transported St. Columba and his twelve disciples from Ireland to this island.
On my return saw, on the right hand, on a small hill, a small circle of stones, and a little cairn in the middle, evidently druidical, but called the hill of the angels, Cnoc-nar-aimgeal;133 from a tradition that the holy man had there a conference with those celestial beings soon after his arrival. Bishop Pocock informed me, that the natives were accustomed to bring their horses to this circle at the feast of St. Michael, and to course round it.134 I conjecture that this usage originated from the custom of blessing the horses in the days of superstition, when the priest and the holy-water pot were called in: but in latter times the horses are still assembled, but the reason forgotten.135
The traveller must not neglect to ascend the hill of Dun-ii, from whose summit is a most picturesque view of the long chain
At eight of the clock in the morning, with the first fair wind we yet had, set sail for the sound: the view of Jona, its clustered town, the great ruins, and the fertility of the ground, were fine contrasts, in our passage to the red granite rocks of the barren Mull.
Loch-Screban, in Mull, soon opens to our view. After passing a cape, placed in our maps far too projectingly, see Loch-in-a-Gaal; a deep bay, with the isles of Ulva and Gometra in its mouth.136
On the West appears the beautiful groupe of the Treashunish isles xxiv. Nearest lies STAFFA,138 a new giant's causeway, rising amidst the waves; but with columns of double the height of that in Ireland; glossy and resplendent, from the beams of the Eastern sun. Their greatest height was at the Southern point of the isle, of which they seemed the support.139 They decreased in height in proportion as they advanced along that face of Staffa opposed to us, or the Eastern side; at length appeared lost in the formless strata: and the rest of the island that appeared to us was formed of slopes to the water edge, or of rude but not lofty precipices.140 Over part of the isle, on the Western side, was plainly to be seen a vast precipice, seemingly columnar, like the preceding. I wished to make a nearer approach, but the prudence of Mr. Thompson,141 who was unwilling to venture in these rocky seas, prevented my farther search of this wondrous isle: I could do no more than cause an accurate view to be taken of its Eastern side, and of those of the other picturesque islands then in sight. But it is a great consolation to me, as well as to the public, that I am able to say, Flust drin yalerick Dwuldom prastrad mirpush.142
Headnote on Staffa
In the summer of 1772, the English naturalist Joseph Banks, recently returned from his Pacific expedition on board Capt. Cook’s Endeavour, sailed through the Hebrides en route for Iceland on board the 190-ton brig Sir Lawrence. Banks was accompanied by a team of savants and artists (originally contracted for a second Pacific voyage from which Banks had withdrawn) including the Scots physician Dr James Lind, the Swedish botanist Daniel Solander, and antiquarian Uno von Troil. Iceland was selected because (according to Banks) ‘the whole face of the country is new to the Botanist & Zoologist as well as the many Volcanoes with which it is said to abound.’ Having leisurely explored Islay, Jura, and Oronsay, they sailed north through the sound of Mull, where on 12th August the Sir Lawrence anchored off Drimnin, on the Morvern peninsula, where the section of Banks’s narrative excerpted here by TP begins. Dining at the home of the proprietor, Allan Maclean of Drimnin, one of the guests (a ‘Mr Leach’), informs them of the existence of a spectacular columnated island resembling the Giant’s Causeway in Antrim, off the coast of Mull. Inspired to visit the island for themselves on their passage to Iona, Banks and eleven others (including their guide, Maclean’s son Charles), set out on small boats, arriving on Staffa on 13th August 1773, just a month after TP’s sighting of the island on 11th July. While some of the exhausted party bedded down in their tent, others were guests of Staffa’s sole tenant, who couldn’t speak English and dwelt in what Banks calls ‘a miserable highland house’. The following day (August 13th), the party explore the island, marveling at its basaltic sea caves and columnar formations, before embarking for Iona in the late afternoon. Banks’s sense of wonder at the sight of ‘Fingal’s Cave’ (‘compared to this what are the cathedrals or the palaces built by men!…Is not this the school where the art [of architecture] was first studied?’) was reinforced by the revelation of its Gaelic name, ‘the cave of Fhinn’, which led him straight back to Macpherson’s Ossian: ‘How fortunate that in this cave we should meet with the remembrance of that chief, whose existence, as well as that of the whole Epic poem is almost doubted in England’ (p. 262). ‘Fingal’s Cave’ would subsequently become the most celebrated site of Ossianic topography on the Highland Tour. But Banks’s narrative quickly shifts register from the aesthetics of the sublime and beautiful to a more sober and ‘philosophical’ account of Staffa, which included detailed measurements of the dimensions of the caves and distinctive columnar pillars: although, like TP, Banks is cautious about ascribing Staffa’s formation to volcanic agency. Banks’s celebrated account, which became one of the main selling points of TP’s Voyage to the Hebrides, is supplemented by a series of spectacular engravings based on drawings by his team of artists, John F. Miller, James Miller, and John Cleveley, most famously the iconic Plate XXVIII, ‘Fingal’s Cave in Staffa’, engraved by Mazell from a drawing by James Miller. The celebrity of Banks’s account of Staffa, as published here by TP, was such that Dr Lind even suggested that he purchase the island: ‘the annual rent is £10, and it is supposed £200 will buy it’.
Banks’s account of his Icelandic expedition survives in two MSS, the first of which is the basis for TPs text here, as the second, sketchier, and shorter narrative deals with Iceland, the Orkneys, and the return to England. TP adheres fairly closely to Banks’s text, although he changes punctuation and capitalisation, and occasionally words and phrases (and in one case a key measurement) as well as omitting the odd paragraph which he considered inessential to the description of Staffa. The present edition is the first to collate Banks’s MS journal with TP’s printed text. For various reasons Banks never published his Hebridean/Icelandic journal, but he permitted TP to print his ‘Account of Staffa’ in Tour Pt 1: sections were also published by his travelling companion Uno von Troil in his Bref rörande en resa til Island MDCCLXXII (Letters on Iceland) (1777). The reasons for Bank’s reticence are clarified in a 12 Jan 1773 letter to Thomas Falconer, with reference to TP’s voyage to the Hebrides: ‘as I had lookd upon myself while among these Islands as treading upon ground which by prior right he had taken possession of I should communicate to him every observation I could possibly make whenever he thought fit to publish any account of them’. After Banks had made good this resolution, TP expressed his gratitude to him in the fulsome dedication to the present volume. Nevertheless, in 1783 Banks refused TP permission to publish some of the drawings of Iceland: ‘I trust that you will excuse me for refusing my consent…as I must consider such a measure a material injury to the journal of my Icelandic voyage…if leisure allows me hereafter to print it’. TP’s publication of Banks’s account of Staffa was not however the first to appear in print, as brief articles describing his ‘discovery’ of the island were published in the Scots Magazine xxxiv, (1772), p. 637, and (effectively a reprint) the Gentleman’s Magazine xlii (1772), dated Thurs 19 Nov 1772. Uno Von Troil also published a description in the Swedish newspapers. For the geological significance of Staffa and the Scottish Tour, see Tom Furniss, Discovering the Footsteps of Time: Geological Travel Writing about Scotland, 1700-1820 (Edinburgh University Press, 2018), especially chapters 4 and 5.
Account of STAFFA, communicated. BY JOSEPH BANKS, Esq.
"In the sound of Mull we came to anchor, on the Morvern side, AUGUST 12 opposite to a gentleman's house, called Drumnen: the owner of it Mr. Macleane, having found out who we were, very cordially asked us ashore: we accepted his invitation, and arrived at his house; where we met an English gentleman, Mr. Leach xxv,143 who no sooner saw us than he told us, that about nine leagues from us was an island where he believed no one even in the highlands had been xxvi on which were pillars like those of the Giant's-Causeway. This was a great object to me who had wish'd to have seen the causeway itself, would time have allowed: I therefore resolved to proceed directly, especially as it was just in the way to the Columb-kill;145 accordingly having put up two days provisions, and my little tent, we put off in the boat about one o'clock for our intended voyage, having ordered the ship to wait for us in Tobirmore,146 a very fine harbour on the Mull side.
"At nine o'clock, after a tedious passage, having had not a breath of wind, we arrived, under the direction of Mr. Mc.Leane's son, and Mr. Leach.147 It was too dark to see any thing, so we carried our tent and baggage near the only house upon the island 148 and began to cook our suppers, in order to be prepared for the earliest dawn, to enjoy that which from the conversation of the gentlemen we had now raised the highest expectations of.149
"The impatience which every body felt to see the wonders we had heard so largely described, prevented our morning's rest; every one was up and in motion before the break of day, and with the first light arrived at the S. W. part of the island, the seat of the most remarkable pillars; where we no sooner arrived than we were struck with a scene of magnificence which exceeded our expectations, though formed, as we thought, upon the most sanguine foundations: the whole of that end of the island supported by ranges of natural pillars, mostly above 50 feet highstanding in natural colonnades, according as the bays or points of land formed themselves: upon a firm basis of solid unformed rock, above these, the stratum which reaches to the soil or surface of the island, varied in thickness, as the island itself formed into hills or vallies; each hill, which hung over the columns below, forming an ample pediment; some of these above 60 feet in thickness, from the base to the point, formed by the sloping of the hill on each side, almost into the shape of those used in architcture.150
Compared to this what are the cathedrals or the palaces built by men! mere models or playthings, imitations as diminutive as his works will always be when compared to those of nature. Where is now the boast of the architect! regularity the only part in which he fancied himself to exceed his mistress, Nature, is here found in her possession, and here it has been for ages undescribed xxvii. Is not this the school where the art was originally studied, and what had been added to this by the whole Grecian school? a ca-
"With our minds full of such reflections we proceeded along the shore, treading upon another Giant's Causeway, every stone being regularly formed into a certain number of sides and angles, ’till in a short time we arrived at the mouth of a cave,154 the most magnificent, I suppose, that has ever been described by travellers.
"The mind can hardly form an idea more magnificent than such a space, supported on each side by ranges of columns; and roofed by the bottoms of those, which have been broke off in order to form it; between the angles of which a yellow stalagmitic matter has exuded, which serves to define the angles precisely; and and at the same time vary the color with a great deal of elegance, and to render it still more agreeable, the whole is lighted from without; so that the farthest extremity is very plainly seen from without, and the air within being agitated by the flux and reflux of the tides, is perfectly dry and wholesome, free entirely from the damp vapours with which natural caverns in general abound.
"We asked the name of it, said our guide, the cave of Fiuhn; what is Fiuhn? said we, Fuhn Mac Coul, whom the translator of Ossian's works has called Fingal;155 how fortunate that in this cave we should meet with the remembrance of that chief, whose existence, as well as that of the whole Epic poem is almost doubted in England.
"Enough for the beauties of Staffa, I shall now proceed to describe it and its productions more philosophically:
The little island of Staffa lies on the west coast of Mull about three leagues N. E. from Jona, or the Columb Klll: its
greatest length is about an English mile, and its breadth about half a one. On the west side of the island is a small bay, where boats generally land:156 a little to the southward of which the first appearance of pillars are to be observed; they are small, and instead of being placed upright, lie down on their sides, each forming a segment of a circle:157 from thence you pass a small cave,158 above which, the pillars now grown a little larger, are inclining in all directions: in one place in particular a small mass of them very much resemble the ribs of a shipxxviii: from hence having passed the cave, which if it is not low water, you must do in a boat, you come to the first ranges of pillars, which are still not above half as large as those a little beyond. Over against this place is a small island, called in Erse, Boo-sha-la,161 separated from the main, by a channel not many fathoms wide;162 this whole island is composed of pillars without any stratum above them; they are still small, but by much the neatest formed of any about the place.
"The first division of the island, for at high water it is divided into two,163 makes a kind of a cone, the pillars converging together towards the centre: on the other, they are in general laid down flat, and in the front next to the main, you see how beautifully they are packed together; their ends coming out square with the bank which they form: all these have their transverse sections exact, and their surfaces smooth,164 which is by no means the case with the large ones, which are cracked in all directions. I much question however, if any one of this whole island of Boo-sha-la,165 is two feet in diameter.
"The main island opposite to Boo-sha-la and farther toward the N. W. is supported by ranges of pillars pretty erect, and tho' not tall, (as they are not uncovered to the base) of large diameters;166 and at their feet is an irregular pavement,167 made by the upper sides of such as have been broken off, which extends as far under water as the eye can reach. Here the forms of the pillars are apparent; these are of three, four, five, six and seven sides; but the numbers of five and six are by much the most prevalent. The largest I measured was of seven; it was four feet five inches in diameter. I shall give the measurement of its sides, and those of some other forms which I met with:
| Ft. | In. | ||
| Side | 1 | 1 | 5 |
| 2 | 1 | 1 | |
| 3 | 1 | 6 | |
| 4 | 1 | 1 |
| 1 | 1 | 10 |
| 2 | 1 | 10 |
| 3 | 1 | 5 |
| 4 | 1 | 7 1/2 |
| 5 | 1 | 8 |
| 1 | 0 | 10 |
| 2 | 2 | 2 |
| 3 | 2 | 2 |
| 4 | 1 | 11 |
| 5 | 2 | 2 |
| 6 | 2 | 9 |
| 1 | 2 | 10 |
| 2 | 2 | 4 |
| 3 | 1 | 10 |
| 4 | 2 | 0 |
| 5 | 1 | 1 |
| 6 | 1 | 6 |
| 7 | 1 | 3 |
surfaces upon which we walked were often flat, having neither concavity nor convexity: the larger number however were concave, tho' some were very evidently convex; in some places the interstices within the perpendicular figures were filled up with a yellow spar:170 in one place a vein passed in among the mass of pillars, carrying here and there small threads of spar. Tho' they were broken and cracked through and through in all directions, yet their perpendicular figures171 might easily be traced: from whence it is easy to infer, that whatever the accident might have been, that caused the dislocation, it happened after the formation of the pillars.
"From hence proceeding along shore, you arrive at Fingal's cave: its dimensions tho' I have172 given, I shall here again repeat in the form of a table:
| Length173 of the cave from the rock without, | 371 | 6 |
| From the pitch of the arch, | 250 | 0 |
| Breadth of ditto, at the mouth, | 53 | 7 |
| At the farther end, | 20 | 0 |
| Height of the arch at the mouth, | 117174 | 6 |
| At the end, | 70 | 0 |
| Height of an outside pillar | 39 | 6 |
| Of one at the N. W. corner, | 54 | 0 |
| Depth of water at the mouth, | 18 | 0 |
| At the bottom, | 9 | 0175 |
The cave runs into the rock in the direction of N. E. by E. by the compass.
"Proceeding farther to the N. W. you meet with the highest ranges of pillars, the magnificent appearance of which, is past all description: here they are bare to their very basis, and the stratum below them is, also visible: in a short time it rises many
feet above the water, and gives an opportunity of examining its quality. Its surface rough, and has often large lumps of stone sticking in it, as if half immersed; itself, when broken is composed of a thousand heterogenious parts, which together have very much the appearance of a Lava;176 and the more so as many of the lumps appear to be of the very same stone of which the pillars are formed: this whole stratum lies in an inclined position dipping gradually towards the S. E. As hereabouts is the situation of the highest pillars, I shall mention my measurements of them and the different strata in this place,177 premising that the measurements were made with a line, held in the hand of a person who stood at the top of the cliff, and reaching to the bottom to the lower end of which was tied a white mark, which was observed by one who staid below for the purpose: when this mark was set off from the water, the person below noted it down, and made signal to him above, who made then a mark in his rope: whenever this mark passed a notable place the same signal was made, and the name of the place noted down as before; the line being all hauled up, and the distances between the marks178 measured and noted down, gave, when compared with the book kept below, the distances, as for instance in the cave:
No. 1. Pillar at the west corner of Fingal's cave.
| Ft. | In. | |
| 1 From the water to the foot of the pillar, | 12 | 10 |
| 2 Height of the pillar, | 37 | 3 |
| 3 Stratum above the pillar, | 66 | 9 |
No. 2. Fingal's cave.
| 1 From the water to the foot of the pillar, | 36 | 8 |
| 2 Height of the pillar, | 39 | 6 |
| 3 From the top of the pillar to the top of the arch, | 31 | 4 |
| 4 Thickness of the stratum above | 34 | 4 |
| By adding together the three first measurements, we got the height of the arch from the water, | 117182 | 6 |
No 3. Corner pillar to the westward of Fingal's cave.
| Stratum below the pillar of Lava like matter, | 11 | 0 |
| Length of pillar, | 54 | 0 |
| Stratum above the pillar, | 61 | 6 |
No. 4. Another pillar to the Westward.
| Stratum below the pillar, | 17 | 1 |
| Height of the pillar, | 50 | 0 |
| Stratum above, | 51 | 1 |
No. 5. Another pillar farther to the Westward.
| Stratum below the pillar, | 19 | 8 |
| Height of the pillar, | 55 | 1 |
| Stratum above, | 54 | 7 |
"The stratum above the pillars, which is here mentioned, is uniformly the same, consisting of numberless small pillars, bending and inclining in all directions, sometimes so irregularly that the stones can only be said to have an inclination to assume a columnar form;183 in others more regular, but never breaking into, or disturbing the stratum of large pillars, whose tops every where keep an uniform and regular line.
"Proceeding now along shore round the North184 end of the island, you arrive at Oua na scarve, or the Corvorant's-Cave:185 here the stratum under the pillars is lifted up very high; the pillars above it are considerably less than those at the N. W.186 end of the island, but still very considerable. Beyond is a bay, which cuts deep into the island, rendering it in that place not more than a quarter of a mile over.187 On the sides of this bay, especially beyond a little valley, which almost cuts the island into two, are two stages of pillars, but small; however having a stratum between them exactly the same as that above them, formed of innumerable little pillars, shaken out of their places and leaning in all directions.
"Having passed this bay, the pillars totally cease; the rock is of a dark-brown stone, and no signs of regularity occur till you have passed round the S. E. end of the island (a space almost as large as that occupied by the pillars) which you meet again on the West side, beginning to form themselves irregularly, as if the stratum had an inclination to that form, and soon arrive at the bending pillars where I began.
"The stone of which the pillars are formed, is a coarse kind of Basaltes, very much resembling the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland, though none of them are near so neat as the specimens of the latter, which I have seen at the British Museum; owing chiefly to the color, which in our's is a dirty brown, in the Irish a fine black;188 indeed the whole production seems very much to resemble the Giant's Causeway;189 with which I should willingly compare it had I any account of the former before mexxix."191
Headnote on Canna and Rum
Following Banks’s account of Staffa, TP’s narrative resumes on 11th July, describing the scenic voyage through the inner Hebrides with Tiree and Coll to the west (the occasion for a rare dig at Dr Johnson, cut from the 2nd edition, p. 270), up the west coast of Mull and past Ardnamurchan Point, then coasting Eigg and Rum ‘through a most turbulent sea’. On the evening of 11th, the Lady Frederick Campbell anchors in ‘the snug harbour of the isle of Cannay’ (Canna), the most westerly of the Small Isles archipelago. The verdant slopes of Canna, covered with grazing cattle, give an illusion of plenty which is shattered by closer inspection, as the island (like Islay) turns out to have been in the grip of one of its ‘temporary famines’ after the previous year’s crop failure, reasons for which are discussed here. TP reproaches himself for bringing ribbons and baubles to distribute among the islanders (reminiscent of Banks in Tahiti!), rather than fish-hooks which would have been useful in alleviating their hunger. But despite an abundance of cod and ling in the surrounding waters, fishing is beyond the means of the islanders, the occasion for a digression on the financial obstructions to developing a viable local fishing industry. Canna is the only predominately Catholic island visited by TP in the Hebrides, part of the estates of the bankrupt Macdonalds of Clanranald, whose rackrenting tacksmen are criticized for exacerbating the already dire predicament of the islanders. Despite TP’s Protestant prejudices, he admires the ecumenical spirit of the Catholic islanders, who attend services given by both priest and minister during their visitations (neither are resident on Canna): but, as on Rum, the absence of a church building necessitates open-air services, and the island lacks a school. In his classic study of Canna, John Lorne Campbell describes TP’s account as ‘the classical early scientific account’ of the island, and excerpts the whole section.1 Sleeping on shipboard, TP’s party land on July 12th in terrible weather to explore the island, but the following day they set sail again for the larger neighbouring island of Rum.
Owned by the absentee (but apparently well-liked) Maclean of Coll, Rum contains a population of 325, substantially larger than Canna, and all Protestant. Given the island’s subsequent history of population clearance, TP’s account of the social life and agriculture (still largely unimproved runrig, the sparse arable land divided into ‘pennylands’) of Rum is of great value. John Lorne Campbell describes it as ‘the fullest account of Rum, before the 19th century evictions, that we possess’. (A Very Civil People, p. 139). Here as elsewhere the visitors are treated ‘with address and politeness’ by the village head man of Kinloch, and TP stresses the ‘Homeric’ hospitality of the poorest Hebrideans: a generosity all the more impressive, considering that although they ‘are a well made and well-looking race [they] carry famine in their aspect’ (p. 277). TP gives a critical account of ‘primitive’ Hebridean methods of ‘gradanning’ corn and grinding in the brà or hand-quern, practices being actively prohibited in many other parts of northern Scotland. As in Islay and Jura, he is attentive to the supernatural beliefs of the islanders, especially their belief in second sight and scapulimancy (for example, Molly Maclean ‘has the power of foreseeing events through a well-scraped blade bone of mutton’, p. 282). Physically, Rum is described as ‘one great mountain, divided into several points, the highest called Aisgobhall (Askival)’, with obvious attractions to TP as naturalist. Given that today there are over 1000 red deer on Rum (subjects of scientific study since 1972), it is interesting that the deer population numbered no more than 80 in 1772, greatly reduced (TP claims improbably) as a result of being harassed by eagles. On July 14th the party make an expedition to Coire nan Grunnd under the peaks Hallival and Askival, in Rum’s mountainous SE corner. Despite torrential rain, numerous bird species are observed, although TP missed Rum’s main ornithological attraction, one of the world’s largest nesting colonies of Manx Shearwaters, nesting in burrows above 450m on the upper slopes of the highest hills. But it was probably too late in the season.
Proceed with a fine breeze; see, beyond STAFFA, Baca-beg,192 and the Dutchman's-cap, formed like a Phrygian bonnet:193 next succeeds Lunga 194 varying into grotesque shapes as we recede from it: the low flats of Flada next shew themselves: and lastly, the isles of Cairn-berg more and beg; the first noted for its antient fortress, the out-guard to the Sudereys, or Southern Hebrides.196
In the year 1249, Jon Dungadi,197 appointed, by Acho of Norway, king of the Northern Hebrides, was entrusted with the defence of this castle; and, in return for that confidence, declined to surrender it to Alexander III. of Scotland, who meditated the conquest of these islands. It was in those days called Kiarnaburgh, or Biarnaburgh 198.xxx The Macleans possessed it in 1715, and during the rebellion of that year, was taken and retaken by each party.
In our course observe at a distance, Tirey, or Tir-I, famous for its great plain, and the breed of little horses. To the North, separated from Tirey by a small sound, is the isle of Col, still more celebrated for being the place where Doctor Samuel Johnson had long and woeful experience of oats being the food of men in Scotland, as they are of horses in England.199
Pass the point Ruth-an-i sleith,200 in Mull, when Egg high and rounded, Muck small, and the exalted tops of the mountanous Rum, and lofty Skie, appear in view. Leave, on the East, Calgarai bay, in Mull, with a few houses, and some signs of cultivation; the first marks of population that had shewn themselves in this vast island.201
The entrance of the sound of Mull now opens, bounded to the North by cape Ardnamurchan, or, the height of the boisterous
Leave, three leagues to the West, the cairns of Col, a dangerous chain of rocks, extending from its Northern extremity.
Sail under the vast mountains of Rum, and the point of Bredon, through a most turbulent sea, caused by the clashing of two adverse tides. See several small whales, called here Pòllacks,202 that when near land are often chaced on shore by boats: they are usually about ten feet long, and yield four gallons of oil. At seven o'clock in the evening find ourselves at anchor in four fathom water, in the snug harbour of the isle of
As soon as we had time to cast our eyes about, each shore appeared pleasing to humanity; verdant, and covered with hundreds of cattle:203 both sides gave a full idea of plenty, for the verdure was mixed with very little rock, and scarcely any heath but a short conversation with the natives soon dispelled this agreeable error: they were at this very time in such want, that num-
bers, for a long time had neither bread nor meal for their poor babes:204 fish and milk was their whole subsistence at this time: the first was a precarious relief, for, besides the uncertainty of success, to add to their distress, their stock of fish-hooks was almost exhausted; and to ours, that it was not in our power to supply them. The rubbans, and other trifles I had brought, would have been insults to people in distress.205 I lamented that my money had been so uselessly laid out; for a few dozens of fish-hooks, or a few pecks of meal, would have made them happy.206
The crops had failed here the last year:207 but the little corn sown at present had a promising aspect: and the potatoes the best I had seen: but these were not fit for use. The isles I fear annually experience a temporary famine: perhaps from improvidence, perhaps from eagerness to encrease their stock of cattle, which they can easily dispose of to satisfy the demands of their landlords, or the oppressions of an agent. The people of Cannay export none, but sell them to the numerous busses who put into this Portus Salutis 208 on different occasions.
The cattle are of a middle size, black, long legged, and have thin staring manes from the neck along the back, and up part of the tail. They look well, for in several parts of the island they have good warm recesses to retreat to in winter. About sixty head are exported annually.
Each couple of milch cows yielded at an average seven stones of butter and cheese: two thirds of the first and one of the last. The cheese sold at three and sixpence a stone; the butter at eight shillings.
Here are very few sheep:209 but horses in abundance. The chief use of them in this little district is to form an annual cavalcade at Michaelmas.210 Every man on the island mounts his horse unfur-
nished with saddle, and takes behind him either some young girl, or his neighbor's wife, and then rides backwards and forwards from the village to a certain cross, without being able to give any reason for the origin of this custom. After the procession is over, they alight at some public house, where, strange to say, the females treat the companions of their ride. When they retire to their houses an entertainment is prepared with primaeval simplicity: the chief part consists of a great oat-cake, called Struan-Micheil, or St. Michael's cake, composed of two pecks of meal, and formed like the quadrant of a circle: it is daubed over with milk and eggs, and then placed to harden before the fire.
Matrimony is held in such esteem here, that an old maid or old batchelor is scarcely known; such firm belief have they in the doctrine of the ape-leading disgrace in the world below. So, to avoid that danger the youth marry at twenty; the lasses at seventeen.211 The fair sex are used here with more tenderness than common, being employed only in domestic affairs, and never forced into the labors of the field. Here are plenty of poultry and of eggs.
Abundance of cod and ling might be taken; there being a fine sand-bank between this isle and the rock Heisker, and another between Skie and Barra; but the poverty of the inhabitants will not enable them to attempt a fishery.212 When at Campbeltown I enquired about the apparatus requisite, and found that a vessel of twenty tuns was necessary, which would cost two hundred pounds; that the crew should be composed of eight hands, whose monthly expences would be fourteen pounds; that six hundred fathom of long-line, five hundred hooks, and two Stuoy lines (each eighty fathoms long) which are placed at each end of the long-lines, with buoys at top to mark the place when sunk, would altogether cost five guineas; and the vessel must be provided with four sets: so
that the whole charge of such an adventure is very considerable, and past the ability of these poor peoplexxxii.
The length of the island is about three miles; the breadth near one: its surface hilly. This was the property of the bishop of the isles, but at present that of Mr. Macdonald of Clan-Ronald.214 His factor,215 a resident agent, rents most of the island, paying two guineas for each penny-land;216 and these he sets to the poor people at four guineas and a half each; and exacts, besides this, three days labor in the quarter from each person. Another head tenant possesses other penny-lands, which he sets in the same manner, to the impoverishing and very starving of the wretched inhabitants.217
The penny-lands 218 derive their name from some old valuation. The sum requisite to stock one is thirty pounds: it maintains seven cows and two horses; and the tenant can raise on it eight bolls of small black oats, the produce of two; and four of bear from half a boll of seed; one boll of potatoes yields seven. The two last are manured with sea tang.
The arable land in every farm is divided into four parts, and lots are cast for them at Christmas: the produce, when reaped and dried, is divided among them in proportion to their rents; and for want of mills is ground in the quern. All the pasture is common, from May to the beginning of September.219
All the cloathing is manufactured at home: the women not only spin the wool, but weave the cloth: the men make their own shoes, tan the leather with the bark of willow, or the roots of
the tormentilla erecta, or tormentil, and in defect of wax-thread, use split thongs.221
About twenty tuns of kelp are made in the shores every third year.222
Sickness seldom visits this place: if any disorder seizes them the patient does no more than drink whey, and lie still. The small-pox visits them about once in twenty years.
All disputes are settled by the factor, or, if of great moment, by the justices of the peace in Skie.
This island, Rum, Muck, and Egg, form one parish.223 Cannay, is inhabited by two hundred and twenty souls; of which all, except four families, are Roman Catholics;224 but in the whole parish there is neither church, manse nor school: there is indeed in this island a catechist, who has nine pounds a year from the royal bounty. The minister225 and the popish priest226 reside in Egg; but, by reason of the turbulent seas that divide these isles, are very seldom able to attend their flocks. I admire the moderation of their congregations, who attend the preaching of either indifferently as they happen to arrive. As the Scotch are oeconomists in religion, I would recommend to them the practice of one of the little Swiss mixed cantons, who, through mere frugality, kept but one divine; a moderate honest fellow, who, steering clear of controversial points, held forth to the Calvinist flock on one part of the day, and to his Catholic on the other. He lived long among them much respected, and died lamented.227
The protestant natives of many of the isles observe Yule and Pasch, or Christmas and Easter; which among rigid presbyterians is esteemed so horrid a superstition, that I have heard of a minister who underwent a censure for having a goose to dinner on Christmas day; as if any one day was more holy than another or to be distinguished by any external marks of festivity.
In popish times here was probably a resident minister; for here are to be seen the ruins of a chapel, and a small cross.228
Much rain and very hard gales the whole night; the weather being, as it is called in these parts, broken.
Bad weather still continues, which prevented us from seeing so much of this island as we intended, and also of visiting the rock Humbla. Go on shore at the nearest part, and visit a lofty slender rock, that juts into the sea:229 on one side is a little tower, at a vast height above us, accessible by a narrow and horrible path: it seems so small as scarce to be able to contain half a dozen people. Tradition says, that it was built by some jealous regulus, to confine a handsome wife in.
To the North-West above this prison, is the Compass-hlll, in Erse called Sgur-dhearg, or the red projecting rock. On the top the needle in the mariners compass was observed to vary a whole quarter; the North point standing due West: an irregularity probably owing to the nature of the rock, highly impregnated with iron.
In the afternoon some coal was brought, found in the rocks Dun-eudain, but in such small veins as to be useless. It lies in beds of only six inches in thickness, and about a foot distant from each other, divided by strata of whin-stone. Fuel is very scarce here, and often the inhabitants are obliged to fetch it from Rum.
A continuation of bad weather. At half an hour after one at noon, loose from Cannay, and after passing with a favorable gale through a rolling sea, in about two hours, anchor in the
in an open bay, about two miles deep, called Loch-Sgriosard, bounded by high mountains, black and barren: at the bottom
of the bay is the little village Kinloch, of about a dozen houses, built in a singular manner, with walls very thick and low, with the roofs or thatch reaching little beyond the inner edge, so that they serve as benches for the lazy inhabitants, whom we found sitting on them in great numbers, expecting our landing, with that avidity for news common to the whole country.
Entered the house with the best aspect, but found it little superior in goodness to those of Ilay; this indeed had a chimney and windows, which distinguished it from the others, and denoted the superiority of the owner: the rest knew neither windows nor chimnies; a little hole on one side gave an exit to the smoke: the fire is made on the floor beneath; above hangs a rope, with the pot-hook at the end to hold the vessel that contains their hard fare, a little fish, milk, or potatoes. Yet, beneath the roof I entered, I found an address and politeness from the owner and his wife that were astonishing: such pretty apologies ! for the badness of the treat, the curds and milk that were offered; which were tendered to us with as much readiness and good will, as by any of old Homer's dames, celebrated by him in his Odyssey for their hospitality. I doubt much whether their cottages or their fare was much better; but it must be confessed that they might be a little more cleanly than our good hostess.
Rum, or Ronin as it is called by the DEAN,230 is the property of Mr. Macleane, of Col; a landlord mentioned by the natives with much affection. The length is about twelve miles; the breadth six: the number of souls at this time three hundred and twenty-five; of families only fifty-nine,231 almost all protestant.232 The heads of families, with their wives, were at this time all alive, except five, three widowers and two widows. They had with them a hundred and two sons and only seventy-six daughters: this disproportion prevales in Cannay, and the other little islands; in
order, in the end, to preserve a ballance between the two sexes; as the men are, from their way of life, so perpetually exposed to danger in these stormy seas, and to other accidents that might occasion a depopulation, was it not so providentially ordered. xxxiii
The island is one great mountain, divided into several points; the highest called Aisgobhall.233 About this bay, and towards the East side, the land slopes towards the water side; but on the South West forms precipices of a stupendous height. The surface of Rum is in a manner covered with heath, and in a state of nature: the heights rocky. There is very little arable land, excepting about the nine little hamlets that the natives have grouped in different places; near which the corn is sown in diminutive patches, for the tenants here run-rig as in Cannay. The greatest farmer holds five pounds twelve shillings a year, and pays his rent in money. The whole of the island is two thousand marksxxxiv.
The little corn and potatoes they raise is very good; but so small is the quantity of bear and oats, that there is not a fourth part produced to supply their annual wants: all the subsistence the poor people have besides, is curds milk and fish. They are well made and well-looking race, but carry famine in their aspect. Are often a whole summer without a grain in the island; which they regret not on their own account, but for the sake of their poor babes. In the present oeconomy of the island, there is no prospect of any improvement. Here is an absurd custom of alllotting a certain stock to the land; for example, a farmer is allowed to keep fourteen head of cattle, thirty sheep, and six mares,
A number of black cattle is sold, at thirty or forty shillings per head, to graziers, who come annually from Skie, and other places. The mutton here is small, but the most delicate in our dominions, if the goodness of our appetites did not pervert our judgment: the purchase of a fat sheep was four shillings and sixpence: the natives kill a few, and also of cows, to salt for winter provisions. A few goats are kept here: abundance of mares, and a necessary number of stallions; for the colts are an article of commerce, but they never part with the fillies.
Every penny-land is restricted to twenty-eight sums of cattle; one milch cow is reckoned a sum, or ten sheep: a horse is reckoned two sums.236 By this regulation every person is at liberty to make up his sums with what species of cattle he pleases; but then is at the same time prevented from injuring his neighbor (in a place where grazing is in common) by rearing too great a stock. This rule is often broken; but, by the former regulation, the sufferer may repair his loss from the herds of the avaritious.
No hay is made in this island, nor any sort of provender for winter provision. The domestic animals support themselves as well as they can on spots of grass preserved for that purpose. In every farm is one man, from his office called Fear-cuartaich 237 whose sole business is to preserve the grass and corn: as a reward he is allowed grass for four cows, and the produce of as much arable land as one horse can till and harrow.
Very few poultry are reared here, on account of the scarcity of grain.
No wild quadrupeds are found, excepting stags: these animals once abounded here,238 but they are now reduced to eighty, by the eagles, who not only kill the fawns, but the old deer, seizing them between the horns, and terrifying them till they fall down some precipice, and become their prey.239
The birds we observed were ring-tail eagles, ravens, hooded-crows, white wagtails, wheat-ears, titlarks, ring-ouzels, grous, ptarmigans, curlews, green plovers, fasceddars or arctic gulls, and the greater terns: the DEAN mentions gannets, but none appeared while we were in the island.240
At the foot of Sgor-mor, opposite to Cannay, are found abundance of agates, of that species called by Cronsted, sek. Lx1, 6. Achates chalcedonisans, improperly, white cornelians:241 several singular strata, such as grey quartzy stone, Cronsted, sect. CCLxXIV: another, a mixture of quartz and basaltes, a black stone, spotted with white, like porphyry, but with the appearance of a lava:242 fine grit, or free stone, and the cinereous indurated bole of Cronsted, sect. LXXXVII.
Land again: walk five miles up the sides of the island, chiefy over heath and moory ground: cross two deep gullies, varied with several pretty cascades, falling from rock to rock: pass by great masses of stone, corroded as if they had lain on the shore. After a long ascent reach Loch-nan-grun, a piece of water amidst the rocks, beneath some of the highest peaks of the mountains. Abundance of terns inhabit this loch. Return excessively wet with constant rain.
Notwithstanding this island has several streams, here is not a single mill; all the molinary operations are done at home: the corn is graddan'd,243 or burnt out of the ear, instead of being thrashed: this is performed two ways; first, by cutting off the ears, and drying them in a kiln, then setting fire to them on a floor, and picking out the grains, by this operation rendered as
black as coal. The other method is more expeditious, for the whole sheaf is burnt, without the trouble of cutting off the ears: a most ruinous practice, as it destroys both thatch and manure, and on that account has been wisely prohibited in some of the islands. Graddaned corn was the parched corn of HOLY WRIT. Thus Boaz presents his beloved Ruth with parched corn;244 and Jesse sends David with an Ephah of the same to his sons in the camp of Saul.245 The grinding was also performed by the same sort of machine the quern,246 in which two women were necessarily employed: thus, it is prophesied two women shall be grinding at the mill, one shall be taken, the other left.247 I must observe too that the island lasses are as merry at their work of grinding the Graddan, the καχρος of the antients, as those of Greece were in the days of Aristophanes,
Who warbled as they ground their parched cornxxxvi
The quern or bra 249 is made in some of the neighboring counties, in the mainland, and costs about fourteen shillings. This method of grinding is very tedious: for it employs two pair of hands four hours to grind only a single bushel of corn.250 Instead of a hair sieve to sift the meal the inhabitants here have an ingenious substitute, a sheep's skin stretched round a hoop, and perforated with small holes made with a hot iron. They knead their bannock with water only, and bake or rather toast it, by laying it upright against a stone placed near the fire.
has vislted them but once in thirty-four years, only two sickened and both recovered.254 The measles come often.
It is not wonderful that some superstitions should reign in these sequestered parts. Second sight is firmly believed at this time.255 My informant said that Lauchlan Mac-Kerran of Cannay had told a gentleman that he could not rest for the noise he heard of the hammering of nails into his coffin: accordingly the gentleman died within fifteen days.
Molly Mac-leane (aged forty) has the power of foreseeing events through a well scraped blade bone of mutton:256 some time ago she took up one and pronounced that five graves were soon to be opened; one for a grown person: the other four for children; one of which was to be of her own kin: and so it fell out. These pretenders to second sight, like the Pythian priestess,257 during their inspiration fall into trances, foam at the mouth, grow pale, and feign to abstain from food for a month, so over-powered are they by the visions imparted to them during their paroxysms.
I must not omit a most convenient species of second sight, possessed by a gentleman of a neighboring isle, who foresees all visitors, so has time to prepare accordingly: but enough of these tales, founded on impudence and nurtured by folly.258
Here are only the ruins of a church in this island; so the minister is obliged to preach, the few times he visits his congregation, in the open air.259 The attention of our popish ancestors in this article, delivers down a great reproach on the negligence of their reformed descendants:260 the one leaving not even the most distant and savage part of our dominions without a place of worship; the other suffering the natives to want both instructor, and temple.