Aug. 31.
Maria and I started
from
E.C. at 1/2 past 7 this morning &
reached called
^Carlisle [
sic] a little before 9 when I called on
Mr Normans
& settled with him about the school conveyance. At
Gretna stopped to see the Inn where runaways are married; an
opposition blacksmith has lately started up there. Pretty banks of the
Kirtle; looking back we had a fine view of
Solway frith & the
Cumberland
mountains. The cottages are in general built of mud, but new ones
are rising here and there built of stone and slated. Harvest a good deal got in
— chiefly barley & oats. No wheat to be seen. Passed close to
Burnswark and shortly after reached
Ecclefechan. Funeral just over — Small two wheeled
hearse with small
tow feathers at the corners.
Passed a sort of Paddingtonian Gothic chateau with three pasteboard clumps in
part
of it and a Strait channel cut In a mountain Stream running
on one side. Pretty situation of
Castle Milk — neat village of
Lockerby with two Kirks Stairs on the
outside of one of them leading up to the Gallery. We were detained some time for
horses & got off at 3. Passed old burying place by the side of a river
without church annexed. Spaces inclosed by walls for family sepulchres with
their arms over the entrance. Hay made into large cocks
Mountains
approach nearer. Many fir plantations. Pretty approach to
Moffat. A vale inclosed by mountains tall spire of
the church rising from trees. Plaid caps begin to appear as do bare legged and
bare footed women — white haired children — rustics wrapped up in coarse plaids.
Neat houses. Curious chimneys bound round with twisted
straw. We arrived at
Moffat too late to set forward on the next long
stage the same evening; but had just time to walk up a mile & half through a
valley to
the mineral well kept by an old
woman. The water tastes much of Sulphur. It flows from rocks a pint in a minute.
By it's
dike is a ravine thro' which flows
a rapid mountain stream. The wells belonged to
Ly. Hope who is just dead and her
remains are expected here on their way to
Johnstone between here &
Lockerby.
She was attending her daughter-in-laws
accouchement in
Edinburgh. We had arrived at
Moffat at 6, and got back from our walk
at 1/2 past 8 — Bed at 10. –––––
Sep. 1. Left Moffat at 1/4 past 6. Rain.
Steep ascent & descent to Pretty wooded valley — first view of the Clyde — Elvan
Foot Breakfast. Sheep in great numbers following their leader
over the hills. Fine green
downs.
Douglas
Mill. Turned off to the right towards
Lanark —
Tinto cloud
capped. Crossed
the Clyde by
Hyndford bridge, a very handsome one built by the
family of that name who have a seat a few miles on the right. Before reaching
Lanark we walked down to the lodge of
the late
Ly.
Ross's grounds, and Sent on the carriage to the town, Tho' the
day was rainy we met a good deal
of Company.
Corra &
Boninton were very fine. In our way from thence we stopped at
the
manufactories and were shown over them
by
Mr.Gleck. They have a building
where they manufacture their machinery for spinning &c. We saw their [...] instruments made of earth.
There are four cotton mills and we saw all the process they are kept remarkably
neat. The population is about 2400. The people buy their food
at a large depot much cheaper &
better than they could any where else. They subscribe 1
d. out of every
^five shillings they earn for
the support of the sick & old. A large house is now building where those who
like it may dine together in public — it will be a great saving to them of
pies in the summer. The school is
excellent and contains a number of rooms. One of them is for very small children
who are thus taken off their parents hands for some hours
every day and placed under the care of a person — but are not taught anything.
The children in the School learn besides reading & writing — dancing piping
and the manual exercise. They begin at 7 — breakfast — come again at 10 — dine
come again at 3 and stay till five. There are about 700 here
at
present and the boys and girls are taught together. In the same building is a
chapel where service is performed for the children every Sunday; in week days it
is used as a School
room The Contrivances
In their slates which slip down in grooves at the back of the desks and of the
inkstands w
h. have little covers to keep out the
dust are very neat. The children who are
imployed in manufactures
during the day and are in want of education taught in the evening and are
allowed to sit down. Having finished our inspection of all the buildings we went
down to see the large water wheels which turn all the works and are of immense
size. We then proceeded up the hill by a steep path and met an old rustic who
spoke
much in praise of
Mr Owen, he has been
^here 19 years, and is one of the partners of the works
and the principal manager. The other three partners do not reside here. A large
garden is Cultivated by them & vegetables from it sold at a low price to the
manufacturers.
i
Sep. 2. We got up at 1/2 past 5 this morning but the people were so
lazy that we could find neither guide waiter or ostler stirring. In about 1/2 an
hour we procured the Cicerone and walking thro' the town turned off by a path to
the right and came down to
MLockhart's house opposite which there is a very
distinct echo. Then walking up the Hill on
the opposite side we
came to
the Crags. Here there is a
pretty Moss seat but the walk along the precipice is a mere footpath. We saw
Wallace's cave a small cleft in the rock
opposite not more than 20 feet above the river. Near where
the Mouse joins
the
Clyde are two bridges; one of them is very picturesque & has
a large semicircular arch and is called
Roman; but is now disused as a
flatter stronger and broader one has been
built to supply it's place. Soon after we crossed
the
Clyde and stopped at
Stonebyres.
I scrambled down to the rocks in the bed of the river from whence is the best
view. The vale of the Clyde beyond
Stonebyres grows very beautiful, there
is a great deal of wood and a number
of gentlemen's seats. Col
[...] is rebuilding his
house which has been consumed by fire, in the Gothic style. We arrived about 10
at
Hamilton, breakfasted and inspected
the palace; there is
a
very fine Coregio of Christ Scourged;
portrait of the
handsome Duke of Hamilton in regimentals, and
^of his mother a most beautiful
woman. Leaving it we crossed
the Clyde by
Bothwell Bridge famous for the battle
with the Convenanters and then stopped at
Bothwell
Castle which is a most lovely place; you see nothing of it's
beauty from the high road. The house is very large built of red stone and
commands an extensive view towards
Glasgow — one end looks down upon
the Clyde. We walked all over the grounds &
spent some time in exploring the ruins. On leaving this place the vale of
the Clyde continues very rich and the
spires of
Glasgow begin to appear in the
distance — but as you approach the city the country is spoilt by the smoke and
manufactories.
We arrived at
Glasgow about 4 and put up at
the Black
Bull. Walked up
the Trongate
and saw some of the principal features of the town. In evening went to a meeting
house to hear
Wardlaw, but were too late as
the service had begun and the doors were shut. —
Sep. 3. Went down to
the
Green and saw
the Courthouse
and Bridges — thence went up to
the
Cathedral which is divided into two churches; the fine Gothic
architecture is spoilt by pews and galleries — The Church below is now disused.
Near to
the Cathedral is a new
Hospital for the recovery of Typhus fevers. We then descended to
the College but did not go over
the Museum. We saw the process of Singeing and also
a carpet manufactory. Met
Mr
& MrsBaker and went with them to
see a
tambour manufactory where the work is done by machinery,
but we could not get admittance. Having been to the
Bankers and engaged a pair of horses and driver from
the Black Bull for our Highland tour at the rate of
£1..19..0 a day we got some dinner and started at 5.
Met reapers coming home from their work. Fine view of
the Campsie and
Kilpatrick
hills; just reached
Dalnottar
hill in time to see the view before it
gone dark. Wound along
the Clyde to
Dumbarton
which we reached about 8, and found the Inn dirty and swarming with bugs. —
Sep. 4. The first Bulletin this morning was that it was raining.
During breakfast the waiter told us that the Steam boat would set off from the
foot of
Loch Lomond on a tour round the lake
at 10 o clock; as the weather looked better we therefore preferred this novelty
to waiting till we had visited
the castle
and started immediately after breakfast. The banks of
the Leven are very picturesque and have a flourishing
appearance; cornfields (the corn generally cut) with fine trees fringing the
river, neat cottages, and hills rising at a little distance from the
scenery.
Smollet's monument
remains in it's place, but no pains seem to be taken to keep it in repair, and
the marble tablet which contains the inscription and is inlaid in the Pedestal
is broken in half and one piece seems ready to tumble out. We passed a number of
shearers going to their work the rain having ceased. The women were a good
specimen of Scotch beauty; they walked very upright, and their hair was neatly
braided behind without any cap. Before we had any glimpse of
the Loch we turned
down sharp to
the right and found ourselves on the banks of
the
Leven a little below the spot where it flows out of the Loch.
The steamboat was just going off and the horn blowing for a signal. A punt
carried us to it and we seated ourselves on a bench near the stern and soon put
off. At this moment a volume of thick smoke issued from the chimney and the
steam issuing with great force from the pipe covered half the deck with a
shower; but this soon ceased and we went quietly at the rate
of
seven miles an hour. This velocity is not quite agreable to the Sketcher, as the
same view continues for so short a time, and no halt is made except for a minute
or two at a very few places to take up passengers. But then you have the
advantage of visiting every part of the lake and forming an excellent idea of it
which in a common boat with rowers it would be impossible to accomplish in a
day. It has been established three months and answers very well. We had
about 20 passengers who were more select than we expected to
find. We first passed
the D. of Montrose's deer park
Inch Murin where are about 200 head of deer; next
Crainch,
Taminch, and
Inch Callich,
the latter is very high, abrupt rocky and woody; these four are in a strait line
and stretch across the lake in it's greatest breadth. On
doubling the extreme point of
Inch Callich we proceeded strait up the lake and
passed
Inch fad, low and without wood &
with corn upon it.
Inch Tavanach on our right I regretted to
see had been spoiled of it's beautiful wood. All these Islands we saw to great
advantage but
Ben lomond's head continued
veiled in clouds and most of the mountains followed it's example. We stopped at
Luss and took up some more passengers
and small rain soon came on but not bad enough to drive us from deck. Passing
close to the base of
Ben lomond we stopped
at
Row Ardennan and took up some youths who
just come down from an unsuccessful expedition to the top of
the mountain.
Passed Rob Roy's rocks not large or striking
objects and came to a small cottage with a mountain torrent rolling down in a
fine cascade close to it: on the hill above is Inversnaid. We then went on about a mile further to a bold
rocky point which is the farthest place the boat goes to it and here about 40 yards from the shore is Rob Roy's Cave or Cove. The path up to it is very
steep and bad and I think too bad for a lady to attempt, but
Maria with a good deal of scrambling and difficulty
contrived to reach the mouth of it. There is not much to be seen it is very
small and the form very rude being caused by great stones which have fallen down
from the heights above and in such
^a way as to form a
cavity beneath them. Here we turned back and heavy showers coming on we were not
sorry to land at
Tarbet at three, and the
boat
proceeded in it's course down to the foot of
the Loch which it would reach at 6. The distance up
to
the Cave they call 23 miles. The inn is
small and at first we thought indifferent but the attentive and officious
innkeeper conducted us to another house at a little distance which is very clean
and comfortable.
Maria and I walked a couple
of miles on
the Tyndrum road, and returned
to Dinner at 7. The evening turned out fine and we saw
^the
top of
Ben Lomond. Bed at 10.
5
th. We had given orders last night
to have a boat and guide read at 1/2 past 6. to proceed on an expedition to
Loch Katrine, but so lazy were the
innkeeper and his train that it was passed that time before we could obtain
breakfast, and 20 minutes to 8. before we were seated in the boat where we were
immediately joined by two gentlemen who were afterwards found to be
Coll. Austen and
Mr Cazalet.
The day promised to be very fine, we reached the cottage and waterfall where we
had touched in the Steam boat the
preceding day, at a little
after eight and began to climb the hill; and after ascending for about ten
minutes we dipped down a little and lost sight of the lake but not of the fine
mountains
Benvein and
Beneim which are seen from
Loch Katrine and are a principal feature in the views on that
lake though they rise from the opposite bank of
Loch
Lomond. We now had to ascend another but less steep hill upon
which are
the remains of a fort (nothing
more however than a fortified
house, without any battery or
works, which was originally placed there by Government as a check upon the
lawless clan of the Macgregors of which
Rob
Roy was so well known an individual. A guard was kept there till
about 17 years ago and the house is now falling to ruins. One of our Guides told
us a marvellous story of one of the Macgregor's having once upon a time taken
the fort by his own will
and courage without assistance from any
body. He appeared at night before the outer centinel at whose heart he suddenly
pointed a dirk threatening to stab him instantly if he did not lay down his
arms, which he obliged him to do bound him hand and foot obtained from him the
key of the garrison which he entered and took the whole armoury away with him
and all the weapons he could find about the soldiers who it appears
remained fast asleep all this time. Having performed this feat
he appeared before the fort next morning
^with a few of his
followers and demanded
^of them to give up the
garrison, threatening to massacre them all if they refused to comply, and which
to complete the story they of course acceded to. To corroborate this statement
the narator [
sic] said he had known the agent of all this when very old and
had the story
from him, but he is unfortunately not living still
(I should rather say fortunately) to be catechised by the hundreds and thousands
who frequent
Loch Katrine and
Loch Lomond. Our talk on this and other local
subjects occupied us as we walked thro' the valley between the two lakes, w
h. only boasts a single house all the way and has no
very striking features. The road is tolerably level, and a very fair mountain
horse road.
Soon after we had got half way we came to a small piece of water
called
Loch Arkil, and at the very end of
this came in sight of
Loch Katrine
blue2 but with out any other accompaniments than mountains wood being
almost entirely excluded from the picture.
Benan is seen from hence with the top of
Benvenue to the right of it and
Benledi in the distance. After waiting half an hour
a boat was seen shooting
across the lake to us, not piloted by
an Ellen,
3 but by an old
weather beaten Highlander, accompanied by a guide we had sent on before to
secure it, as it is the only boat to be met with at this end of the lake. We
embarked about 11 and had a very pleasant sail to the other end of the lake; no
houses are to be seen but a small white one beautifully situated and belonging
to a
Graham, his property was formerly
intermixed
with
the Duke of
Montrose's and he gave the Duke a good deal of trouble by
interfering with his shooting and other things, till at the last his Grace was
glad to make a bargain with him by which the Statesman gained a much better
property and a much prettier situation for his house; the other mansion is now
more humble being without a chimney and the owner a shepherd fills it with a
family of 15 Children who we saw
working in a field near the
flight of steps.
Ben Lomond looks well from
hence and a stone at the top looks like a man who has just ascended it. On
reaching the last bend of the lake
Benvenue
burst upon us but not in all it's former glory on account of some of the wood
having been cut down and the whole that remains being doomed to the same fate by
the Duke's order who has sold it for the
paltry sum of £200; the elegant birches fit for
little but to
ornament the sides of their native mountains have been stripped of their bark
(which by the by they say is worth half us much as oak)
4 look very sickly and
this autumn will be cut down for posts and rails: observed on the shore a little
to the left of
Roderick's Island a bold rock
on which was formerly planted a maison de plaisance but was blown away one
night.
5 All this side belongs to
Mr D. Burrell
who obtained it by marrying
the heiress
of the Perth family. We walked thro'
the
Trossachs to
Stewart's at
the head of
Loch Achray and partook of some
apartment in his dirty quarters. Much of the wood here too is cut down but it is
allowed to grow for 21 y
rs
[years] a few large ones are left always to grow into fine trees. They say
Mr Burrell if
he wished could not build an Inn here as
Stewart has a lease of all the ground hereabouts for some y
rs. [years] to come
and he is very glad to pocket money from
visitors without paying a licence though he is at perpetual war with the
excisemen about it.
Maria and I wished to ride
over to
Aberfoil and return by
Loch Ard to
Rowardennan but we found it would be 21 miles and besides this
could hire no ponies; we therefore were obliged to give it up and returned with
our companions thro'
the Trossachs and
reembarked at 4. There was
more wind then incoming and it came
down from the mountain in eddies and sometimes brought down the side of our boat
close to the water, but we had an experienced pilot who brought us safe to shore
in an hour and a half. Rain came on and increased in violence as we reached
Loch Lomond when it was dark. Two of the
party joined the boatman in pulling and we with difficulty reached the opposite
banks where we landed and walked thro' a little wood into
the Tyndrum road. Pursuing this for two
miles (the same walk we had taken the evening before) we reached
Tarbett a little before ten, and after changing our
clothes sat down to a good supper.
[...]
6
th. The Drenching of last night made
us rather late at breakfast this morning when we found it still raining. The
landlady and her children and several other people in their Sunday clothes
(which were as good and handsome as any in
England) trotting off to church with their umbrellas shamed us
a little as we had decided not to go, but I thought it would not do to let
Maria have the benefit of another cold
bath. At 12 we set off and
drove thro the narrow and gloomy vale
to
Arroquhar. The road for these two miles
is as bad as possible and an exception to the usual good roads of
the Highlands. The beauty of the Inn has been a
little impaired by some of the trees in front of it having been cut down, but
the Cobler remains in status quo hard at
his work. Passing on to the head of the
Loch, the fishermen's nets spread on large upright s
evens to dry had a picturesque effect.
The valley of Glencroe looked
as wild as ever but the wind was not high enough to annoy us in
ascending to
Rest and be thankful. We
reached
Cairndow at 4 oclock and found
the Inn very full from a large party
having just arrived from
Inverary which
place they had come to in the steam boat from
Glasgow. These steamboats bring a good deal of company on
Sundays but on the whole diminish the profits of the Innkeepers on this road the
Glasgow cits enjoying
a
sea voyage and the sight of the
Islands of
Arran and
Bute.
Col. Callander the proprietor of
Ardkinglas has lately built a very neat
Kirk close to the Inn which has cost him £1000. The
Kirk is octagonal and it has a very handsome Gothic tower perhaps too good for
the other part of the building. He is rather embarrassed in his affairs and
lives near
Stirling till an incumbrance on
the estate is paid off.
The loch looked very
fine
as the clouds cleared off at sunset.
William and
Jane came up in
the evening and we had the church prayers.
7th. We started soon after six without rain; saw some
herons and Sea Gulls at the head of the lake, began to hear gaelic spoken;
sketched Dundanan castle and wound round the
beautiful bay of Inverary to the town where
we got some letters and breakfasted. We then visited the
Duke's house where some repairs are going on; it was built by
Archibald son to
the
great John, his son
the late
Duke6 removed the town to
it's present situation; and the whole thing being made perfect
the reigning Duke deserts it and scarcely ever comes
to enjoy it's beauties. He is however now expected with
his Duchess to stay a few weeks. There is here
a portait of the handsome Duke of Hamilton a relation of the family's
by marriage, and
of the beautiful Lady Charlotte Campbell by
Laurence which was a good deal damaged by the fire
at
Roseneath. Having inspected the house
which was shown us by a very civil woman with the Cumberland accent we wound
round the base of
Dunicoich and had the
beautiful view of
the bay and town. You
cannot now go the regular footpath from
the
Inn to
the Castle which is
shut up; and you are obliged to enter the path by the road thro' a pine avenue;
we perceived a large stone sticking up in
the lawn which was
probably a monument to some chief. A fine avenue extends from
the town to the South west terminating in something
worth seeing but we had not time to explore it. Leaving
Inverary we entered the Duke's park drove by his stables and
farm buildings and ascended thro the vale of
Aray with fine woods on each side. After mounting two miles we
stopped to see a beautiful fall of the river with a very rustic bridge thrown
across. Soon after we emerged from the woods and entered a
very barren tract with rugged mountains on each side constantly ascending and
the river still roaring by our side; when we had almost traced it to it's source
and reached the summit of the mountain we had a magnificent view down upon
Loch Awe and it's Islands;
Ben Cruachan rearing it's tremendous form on the
opposite side
Descending a steep road to
Clady that village
^with it's trees
made a fine foreground, two islands
7 in the lake had a striking appearance, one
rocky and covered with deep green wood and enveloped in shade, another of a fine
undulating outline covered with grass and a yellow light playing upon it, behind
the branch of the lake which goes North towards
Bunawe and has gloomy mountains on each side of it had a
singular appearance. From
Clady we had a
fine drive to
Dalmally, black mountains of
fine outline opening in front;
we passed over a dreary moor with
a number of miserable cottages, and the inhabitants now assuming the highland
costume made the scene wild & romantic. We descended to
Dalmally after
Suppr where we found tolerable
accommodation; and walked before supper to
Glenorchy Kirk by moonlight,
the
Urchay rolling rapidly along, the corn in the meadows cut &
in sheaves and the dark mountains towering behind just as I had seen
^place three years before.
7
th. We set of at 7, and passing
Glenorchy church and crossing
the river we drove down to the head of
the Loch, and perceived on an island at this
extremity the romantic
castle of Kilchurn;
skirted around the base of
Cruachan; road
hilly and thro' young wood but always close to
it
and overhanging
the Loch; we passed the
Northern branch of the lake where the scenery becomes closer and the mountains
opposite
low and abrupt, it narrows
gradually and then the current increases and it
changes into a
river which runs on impetuously of a beautiful blue colour and foams like the
sea. We arrived at
Tynuilt a single house to a late breakfast; and
then walked up a hill infront where a large tall
natural
pillar of grey granite has been placed in memory of
Lord Nelson by the workers in the iron
*ii furnaces at
Bunawe just
below; the iron is bought from
Lancashire
the inducement is the plentifulness of charcoal in this neighbourhood.
Below is
Loch Etive a sea
loch, which insinuates itself in a chain of mountains terminating in
Ben Starive a most picturesque mountain where
Cairngouram stones are found. Proceeding onwards we went thro' a hilly but more
open country with a good deal of young wood; rudely made
birch gates here and there to keep in cattle;
at length we wound down to the margin of the lake and caught a view of
Dunstaffnage Castle and
beyond of the picturesque mountains of
Mull;
at
Connell Ferry the lake is very narrow and
rapid and soon after widens into
Loch
Linnhe; here the mountain views are extensive in every way, but
looking Backwards
Ben Cruachan beats them
all. We here turned off from the Loch and went over a hilly tract of 5 miles to
Oban where the land is strangely thrown
about
in varyed masses of rock without any
picturesque outline.
Oban is a neat white
village;
lining the shore of a little bay, with a castle at one
extremity bold crags at the other and the
island of
Kerrera almost closing it up in front. We had a charming evening
walk in the environs. Herring boats coming in immensely loaded. There are a
number of small sailing boats kept here and a larger vessel a cutter is kept by
some people connected with the Custom house; hearing some people had hired it we
asked to join them which they agreed to.
The
Inn is very bad
8
th A Delightful morning but we found
our intended companions had taken fright and given up their voyage, we therefore
took the cutter to ourselves. At [...] we rowed out in a boat to it,
*iii and had to take a good many tacks before we could get out of
the harbour. The
Island of Kerrera protects
it a good deal from the tempests of
Loch
Linnhe but it is still very rough in winter. Passing under the
castle we observed the
Dogstone a large upright rock to which
Bruce used to tie his hounds. The greatest part of
the
Castle was pulled down for it's
limestone about 30 yr
s. [years] ago. On emerging from the harbour we had a fine view up
Loch Linnhe
and at some distance on the right is the
plain of Appin overshadowed by mountains where
Beregonium the ancient Capital of
Scotland or at least of the Western
Highlands is said to have stood.
10 We soon approached the
Island
of Lismore which is long
^low and narrow
and stretches lengthways up the Loch dividing it nearly equally. It is
excessively fertile and has patches of corn all over it but the principal part
is pasture. A Catholic Bishop who resided here for many years is just dead;
there is also
^a seminary for young Catholics in which
400 are educated. Crossing the loch we entered the
sound
of Mull with
that Island on the left hand and on
the right the
Morvern Hills. Close to the
entrance of the Sound is
Dewart Castle where
Joanna Baillie has laid the scene of her
legendary tale
founded in events which occurred there. A little further on the opposite side is
the
Castle of Ardtornish celebrated by
Scott in His
Lord of the Isles. The Hills on each side
are bleak without any wood and very few habitations. The wind came down in
hidden strong eddies as we passed any
opening in them. Passed several low rocky Islands completely covered with
Seagulls who feast on the herrings. We reached
Aross
at 2, where the waves were rippling up it's smooth beach. Two or
three old walls with a few loopholes in them called a castle stand on a hill
near the shore around which are the few houses which compose the village.
Winding around it's base we came to the
Inn
in front of which an impetuous stream rushes along and empties itself into the
Sound. The
Inn has only one floor but has
^a shop adjoining which belongs to the landlord who
ingrosses all the custom of this part of the Island. We were surprised to find
here 3 or 4 fine ladies dressed in white with their hair done up without caps;
it appeared this was not the every day dress of these damsels
who were come over from a neighbouring village on a visit to the Landlady. We
got mounted in about an hour's time, I on a stout grey poney, and
Maria on a little Shetland; our saddles and bridles
were as bad as possible; one of the natives walked by our side and carried some
of our baggage. Having ascended a long hill we had an extensive view from the
top down to the other side of the Island with
LochnaKeal and the
Benmore
range of mountains on the opposite side of it, with
Knock at their base. We descended to a cottage where we waited
till the return of a messenger I had sent with
Mr Smith's letter
to
Col. Campbell who
^returned an answer giving us a kind invitation to his house. We now
trotted along the banks of the Loch to
Knock
which we reached at Sunset and were hospitably revived by the Col. and his three
sisters. He has seen a good deal of service in the
East
Indies and returned a few years ago to this his native spot and
has made a very comfortable house. It stands at the base of
Benmore the highest mountain in
Mull, and at the opening of the valley formed by
this mountain and another ridge, thro' which flows a river forming a fine lake
in it's course a mile or two beyond the house. In front is seen
loch na Keal.
and the shores
opposite, together with the Island which is placed at the Mouth of the Loch and
shelters it from storms. We drank tea as soon as we arrived, and soon after grew
very sociable: and concluded by a regular hot supper.
10th. We hailed a fine morning with great delight and
after fortifying ourselves with an excellent Scotch Breakfast; Maria rode and I walked a quarter of a mile from the
house to the Loch where we found our sailing boat ready. Two women followed us
bearing a small trunk which our kind entertainers had filled with provisions and
the key was given to me. The shores here
are covered with coarse
light brown and yellowish seaweed with a good many pods in it like the
Rottingdean Seaweed. This is turned into
a very lucrative article; it is cut and then thrown into a trough and burnt, and
after being stirred about a good deal with iron prongs it becomes liquid, when
it is left to cool and it then turns into solid cakes which are used in the
manufactory of soap
The Duke of Argyle's farms here are all let
with the ^portion of Shore adjoining them. They are
generally let low and are not above £20 a year. We embarked at 9 and set off
with a very favourable
haze. On the right parallel horizontal rocky strata; farther on
a few rough columns appeared. Came to the Island of [...]
11 at the mouth of
Loch
na Keal and soon afterwards began to coast along
Ulva, where we saw the House of
Macdonald of Staffa, and soon afterwards had a view
of
Miss Clephane's
Ly. Compton's
mother in a distant part of
Mull. The wind
being so favourable our boatmen had no trouble in rowing and became merry and
sang songs. We were particularly pleased with "Hatyin foam eri" mentioned in
Johnson's tour.
12 We had now the Island
of
Colonsay on our left, and soon after came to [...]
13 on our right an
Island separated from
Ulva by a narrow
strait. Here we perceived an eagle standing boldly on a perpendicular cliff, we
passed close by it, but it kept it's station without taking any notice of us. We
now had
Staffa full in view, the waves grew
very rough as we got into a more open sea. at one we reached this extraordinary
Island and landed at
Clamshell cave where we
sketched and then walked round the Southern point to
Fingal's cave over the tops of columns. We were not
the least disappointed in this wonderful place, after admiring
the view from the entrance we walked along a ledge of broken columns to the
farther end; there is one awkward gap here where you are obliged to make an
awkward side leap and a false step would send you reeling into the water beneath
which is many feet deep. The water was now very calm as the wind was from the
North, and we perceived a pink tint over the rocks which lay under it. The roof
is arched and formed of perpendicular columns broken off. Some green appeared
between the crevices of the columns. While we were standing here the boat rowed
in and our piper struck up but the pipes made too great a noise from the
loudness of the echo. A flute answers better. It's proper name is the melodious
cave.
14 There are a number of large anemonies and jelly fish
floating about in the water here. We descended to the boat and rowed out of the
cave to the South West where the view of the pillars and caves is most
magnificent. Next to
Fingals comes the
Boat cave and then
Cormorant's. The base of the Island is a rocky
ledge in which are placed a line of pillars in oblique direction and intersected
by these caves. In this part they are about 50 feet high and above them is a
large mass also composed of pillars but comparatively very small imperfectly
formed and lying across one another in all directions. above this curious mass
is fine verdant pasture. The northern part of the Island is not to [
sic]
high and has two rows of
^small columns one above the
other. The pillars on the outside of
Fingal's
cave on the South side are bent in at the top as if sinking
under the pressure of the weight above them. In one place we observed serpentine
pillars. Having
repassed
Clamshell cave we landed and walked up to
the
top
of the Island where we spread a cloth on the turf and ate our dinner. Columns
protrude their heads everywhere. A Shepherd the father of one of our boatmen
once lived here, but he has left it and no traces of any habitation are to be
seen. at present about 15 cows and a few sheep pasture here.
We walked to the highest point of the Island and had a fine
view
on all sides. To the North
Rum and very
distant
Skye. To the west a number of small
Islands some quite flat with low cliffs, one with a hump sticking up in the
middle called the
Dutchman's cap, and more
distant
Coll and
Tiree; South
Iona and it's
Cathedral with the
Paps of
Jura
seen faintly in the distance; to the East we had
Ulva &
Mull. After
having devoted two hours and a half to
Staffa which we saw in great perfection from the fineness of
the day we reembarked and had an equally favourable
breeze to
carry us back. In our way we observed at some distance
Mackinnon's cave in the
Mull coast opposite
Ulva.
Our boatmen again entertained us with singing and the piper played in his turn.
To give proper effect to the chorusses of Gaelic songs they each take hold of
the corner of a handkerchief and pull it up and down in proper time. They talked
of whales and seals frequenting these coasts but we saw none. They believed in
second sight, which they believe a person to be born with, but that the faculty
is not developed
'till they are grown up.
Staffa has not been discovered above 50 years.
15 The heights of
Benmore looked fine rising in the evening sky. We reached
Knock before six.
Col. Campbell entertained us in the evening with some of the
natural history of the Island. He has caught 100 salmon in a day in the river
above his house, but they have now much fallen off in number, owing to the
sheepwashings, steam boats, and use of lime. The grouse are very much destroyed
by the eagles and the grey crows who eat the eggs and also the young
grouse; their numbers are also diminished by the heather being
burnt to increase the pasture for sheep. The Ptarmigan which are grey in summer
turn white in winter; and the hares undergo the same change; foxes there are
none. The Eagles also feed on young lambs, some of them are as large as 10 feet
from wing to wing. There has been a fine herring fishery here this year; the
fisheries established in the North of
Scotland for the employment of the natives succeed in general
very well. There are many red deer
which are driven out of the
copses by dogs and shot at as they rush out; they may be killed at 100 yd
s. distance, but sometimes run on a long time after
they have several balls in them. The bark of the Birch is used for charcoal and
yields £20 p
r. tun; the oak is cut every 10 years —
from the facility of procuring this the
Lorn
works are established on
Loch
Etive; the iron being bought from
Lancashire.
Co. Campbell
spoke much in praise of the
Duke of Argyle
whose pensions to poor
people amount to £1600 a year when his
creditors wanted him to make some reduction on this head he said he would sooner
make a reduction in any other expence. The
old
Duke used to make the Innkeepers keep Post Horses. The population
of the Island is about 8000 and there are 30 Schools in it — the people are
averse to begging and scrape up 9 or 10 pounds to leave behind them for their
funeral when a grand fête takes place.
Col.
Campbell recollects an old man who used to chaunt
Ossian's poems in Gaelic. The
Caledonian canal is entirely conducted and paid for
by Government; but is said not to be very likely to succeed. The Navigation of
the Lochs is difficult on account of the contending eddies of wind. The Canal
will be large enough to admit frigates.
Maria
had two of the women servants up after supper who sung some plaintive Gaelic
airs with great Effect.
Sep. 11. At 10 we took leave of our kind friends who supplied us
with horses to carry us to
Aross where we
arrived at ½ past 11. and found the cutter waiting for us. We did not get under
way till 1. Coasted along the
ardnamurchan
mountains with
Ardtornish castle on the left
— afterwards passed
Dewart on the r
t. and
the lady's
rock. From this point we had a fine view up
Loch Linnhe the mountain forms being excessively
grand and
Ben-nevis in the background.
Having passed the
Island of
Lismore we saw
Loch Nell bay
to the North of
Connel ferry where there has
been the greatest draught of herrings this year. A favourable breeze bought us
to
Oban at 5. We left it at 6 and had a fine
sunset ride to
Connel ferry which we crossed
ourselves but as it was growing dark I left
William with the carriage to come over in the morning. The
Inn is close to the opposite shore and
we reached it at half past 7. it is very clean and we found civil people and
excellent accommodation.
Sep. 11.
^12A
heavenly morning. The carriage was safely ferried over at 7; we had it opened
and proceeded under some cliffs with the bay, promontory, lighthouse, and
mansion of
Loch Nell —
Genl. Campbell's on our
left. Soon after we arrived on the banks of
Loch
Curan the ferry is called
Shean. While the boat was coming over from the opposite side I
walked along a reef of rocks projecting into the Loch where I found a number of
shells anemonies and marine
productions. The ferry is about ½ a
mile across. On landing we entered a pretty wood and descending again as we
emerged from it we perceived a small bay with a Gothic house on a hill opposite
called
Loch Eil house. At the mouth of the
bay is the picturesque
tower of Stacha on an Island and fine
mountains behind on the other side of
Loch
Linnhe. The postillion here made a mistake and went strait
instead of going up to the house. We met two fishermen who informed us of our
error and
conducted us across the sands of the bay which were
safe enough to cross the tide being out and we arrived at
Portnacrosh entering it by a fine line of beach. It
is a neat white village. Ascended a hill and came to the plantations of
Appin House which rise up a bold bank
the trees of all kinds about 50y
rs. old and very
thriving tho' close to this arm of the sea. The house is white and square and
stands on a green eminence. The road now winds close to the margin of the Loch
and
Ben-nevis appears in the distance.
We turned off at
Kiel where
a promontory interposes itself between the road and the sea and met it again at
Loch Leven. Opposite this point is
Ardgoar, consisting of fine plantations
and a white house standing on a flat sloping gently to the water, and tucked by
Lofty hills in which there is a gap to the left and a glen opening to
Loch Sunart and
Strontian. The lake narrows and fine rugged mountain forms with
some wood upon them present themselves as you approach
Ballyhulish. Here is another
ferry about a
furlong across; the boat is very small and bad and the boatmen were so drunk
that I though the carriage w
d. have been overturned
into the water. Some people with a number of cows went over before us. There is
an Inn on each side but the opposite kept by
Cameron is much the best where we got luncheon. We were just
setting off again at 6 when we saw the owner of the ferry boat suddenly strip
himself and plunge into
the water as the drunkards had forgot to
fasten it to the shore and it was drifting down with the tide, but he being
drunk himself had not strength to get to it and was carried some way down the
stream himself and some fears were entertained for his safety and a boat sent
after him, but at length he reached the opposite shore in safety tho' without
accomplishing his object. A most brilliant sunset lighted us on our departure
from
Ballyhulish and shed purple and lilac tints
over the mountains. passed a slate quarry with iron railways and waggons. A
number of cottages many of them turf. Receded from the Loch and met it again at
Coran Ferry where we sh
d. have crossed over to
Ardgoar had
Mr. Maclean been at home. The road now goes close to the
Loch built up in many places, sometimes along steep precipices but in general
narrow but as
good as possible. As we crossed a bridge and
looked up a Glen to our right we descried
Ben
Nevis. Fine starlight and moon rising lovelily from behind a
mountain. Boats here and there in the loch*
iv — many
people out at their doors and walking as in a fine evening in
Italy. Reached
Fort Wm. at 9. and found the best Inn
full, we got taken
^in at the other end of the town
close to the
fort.
Sep. 13. This Inn is very dirty but the situation is pretty; it
stands at one end of the village which consists of a longish street of white
houses neat for
Scotland — the backs of one
side of them look to the beach. To the right we had a view of a new Episcopalian
^church erected close by, with hills rising behind
it. In front is the
fort which is small but
has a moat bastions &c; and governor's house,
storerooms &c inside. The English banner waves over all; and
the lake washes one side of the walls. Beyond the
fort are seen the Loch and mountains. The
village is properly called
Gordonsburgh as it pays some dues to the
D. of Gordon tho' formerly it was called
Mary's burgh from having portions of land granted out at a low
rate by
Q. Mary. The houses have some of them
picturesque staircases in front with iron balestrades. There was no service in
the Protestant Church to day, in the Presbyterian they had Gaelic service at 12
and English at 2. We therefore set off in a boat rowed by 4 boys at 11 to go
across the bay to visit the
Caledonian Canal
which
debranches at a
village called
Corpach. As we rowed over,
Bennevis opened upon us, very rugged and
grand but with not so fine an outline as I had expected, the top is flat. At the
mouth of the Canal is an engine house. You first come to a floodgate 20 feet
high and afterwards pass several others; the locks are well lined with stone and
the gates are built in the most solid manner. We walked on about a mile to see
eight locks which are close to each other and are called
Neptune's Staircase.
They cost £50,000. This end of the Canal extending from
Loch Eil (the branch of
Loch Linnhe into which it runs) to
Fort Augustus is finished except a little bit which
is sufficient to prevent the water coming in for the present. The
Lochy River runs all the way to the east of it and
it crosses the river by a small aqueduct. The banks are very high and planted
with different forest trees and quicks[...] at the top. From
Inverness to
Loch Ness is also finished and Ships can
come up from thence to
Fort Augustus. The
branch from
Ft. Augs. to
Loch
Lochy thro'
Loch Oichy
remains to be done and will occupy two years more. We crossed the canal by one
of the floodgates which have causeways defended by iron balustrades at the top,
and returned on the other side to
Corpach
visiting in our way a turf cottage which seemed more comfortable than I expected
but it is not so warm as one built of stone. The people made us taste whiskey
sipping
it first themselves. They wear here the Highland
costume; our Landlord was dressed in a splendid suit of it this morning. Barrels
hereabouts supply the place of chimneys. Near
Corpach is a pretty
obelisk
erected to
Col. Cameron who died at
Waterloo. On the hill above it is a pretty kirk. We
had hard pulling on leaving this place to get back to
Fort William as the wind was much against us being changed to
the West. We shipped several heavy seas and regained the
Fort at 2. We immediately hastened to Kirk which we found full
and service had just begun. Minister with a black tasselled gown praying in the
pulpit, clerk beneath, gallery round three sides of the building and pews
underneath with an aisle left in the middle. The text was Blessed are the
merciful; after the sermon came a prayer, then a Psalm after which boxes were
handed round for alms for the poor. The clergyman then pronounced a short
dismissal. At half past three we set off, and not having time to
go farther Northward we were obliged to retrace our steps back to
Ballyhulish. Some boys followed the carriage whom I
caught making a hole in the Postillion's sack tied behind and stealing beans out
of it. Passed a tent pitched by some people while their house was pulled down
and rebuilt. This being Sunday the people looked as clean as in
England and were standing at their doors with their
families. Rain now came
on and lasted all the way to
Ballyhulish were we arrived at 6 and found good
accommodation at the
Inn North of the Ferry,
which was provided with coals, a coach house and –––––
Sep. 14. Rain early. The people on the opposite bank were very lazy and we could
not get the carriage over till 9, when we were going to cross ourselves but the
landlord Mr
Cameron proposed our going to see some falls at the head of
Loch Leven 9 miles off — as
the clouds were clearing we agreed to go — and having got two
good rowers we proceeded up towards
Glencoe,
and passed the
Island of St.
Mungo with the small remains of a kirk on it. This S
t. was originally a rotter but ended in becoming
good and building 7 Churches. We saw a good many seals who followed the boat and
had black heads shaped like dogs but a good deal larger they sometimes are seen
in great numbers bathing
on the rocky Island here. They
sometimes catch them in nets made of Whipcord the meshes of which are three
inches square. Just where the
Coe flows into
the loch is the pretty house and plantations of a laird; the right bank of the
loch is
argyllshire the left
Inverness. Tide against us but wind in our favor.
Before reaching
Glencoe are slate quarries —
private property. The people who work them get 12
s.
a week; the slates are about 12.
s. a 1000; few of
the cottages however are slated. Here is a school established by the society in
Edinburgh, but the parents of all
(except those who are absolute paupers) pay something for their education. about
1/6 a year for reading alone, and more for the other branches. One of the
boatmen said he rented about 5 acres of
Col.
Cameron the Laird on the
Inverness side, and said he had not has such a crop for 20
years. On the left is
a very noble mountain with trees spreading
up it to a great height and birches shooting out of the crags below. Fine tints
of fern and heath on the mountains to the right. Hard pulling as we passed the
narrow part of the lake. At length we disembarked on the left side and walked up
to a waterfall called
Eisnathic or the Fall of the
Serpent. Here is a curious rocky arch overhanging the river as
it falls and a little below the water has forced its way thro' a rock and pours
thro' a round hole in the middle of it. Rowing on from hence quite to the top of
the Loch, we stopped again to see the fall of another river which falls between
45 50 feet between very fine slats of rock with much wood about it.
17 The water tumbles in an
oblique direction and it is a most picturesque scene. At
Kinlochmore a little beyond are the shooting boxes of
Sir W. Cunningham and another Squire. On the hills
on the South Side of the Loch are red deer which become lighter in winter. They
never attack people. There is much grouse here
and our boatmen
informed us that the Gamekeeper at the
Black
Mountain was in the habit of selling days of shooting to
travellers. As we came back the tide turned and we had much hard pulling to
Glencoe which we reached at 4. We
changed our clothes at a cottage and then wound thro' the famous valley; the
blackness and perpendicularity of the crags and the gloominess of the scenery is
beyond every thing I have seen in my home travels. After a steep ascent
^of 4 miles we at length reached the head of the Glen
where
the road turns, but we still went thro' very wild tho'
less striking scenery, passing on our left the mountain called the
Devil's staircase over which went the old road to
Fort William. As it grew dark we
descended to
King's House which we reached a
little before 8.
Sep. 15. The Inn here is slated and has two
floors but is comfortless enough and has beds stuffed into the sitting rooms. We
however got some good grouse. The House stands in a dreary moor with a
semicircle of rugged mountains to the West and North. We got off
early and wound round the
Black mountain
where I perceived some snow. Much rain. Discerned in the distance the forms of
the
Grampians &
Benledi. Descended and crossed the
water of Bae w
h. falls into
Lochbydoch w
h. we saw to our left, and beyond it is
Loch
Rannoch. Came in sight of
Loch
Tilly and soon after arrived at
Inverounan a single house thatched, and with only a ground
floor. Got some good boiled trout for breakfast. A very large rough greyhound
kept us company all the while
Leaving this place we ascended thro' firs, and had a long pull up
a mountainous tract; skirted along the base of
Bendoran and descended to
Tyndrum. Saw
Benmore with
young snow upon it. Reached the
Inn at 1. and staid there 2 hours and a half to
bait. In the hall are some stuffed animals caught here a wolf, a large mountain
cat and a
forrest. Got a parcel containing
some books we had left behind us at
Inverary. Leaving
Tyndrum we
came to
Loch Dochart in which
is a pretty island with a
castle. We
reached
Luib at 1/2 past 6. and found a good
Inn, where we got an excellent supper of mutton, chickens, pancakes rice
pudding, eggs, cauliflower &c &c. A noisy Irishman and his wife who
almost came to blows began to annoy us with their clamour about bed time, but
were soon overawed by the peacable of the house. He was driving some poneys to
Edinburgh, and I found he was the man I
had seen at
Ballyhulish
threatening to pull
Cameron's
roof off his house if he did not get them ferried over immediately.
Sep. 16. Set off at ¼ to 7. and came in sight of Benlawers, descended to Killin — the approach to it is wonderfully romantic. Stopped at
Cameron's Inn to breakfast the kirk is
hard by, on the other side of the Inn is the burying ground, close under which
rolls the Tay
^Lochy which we
crossed after breakfast in walking to Lord Breadalbane's
burying place, all his family are buried here. and according to
our guide he is presbyterian
and no funeral service is performed
here. The
Mausoleum is plain and handsome
and is overshadowed by a gigantic sycamore. The
old
Castle Finlaric is close
to it. Thro' the trees is a beautiful peep of the vale and of a village of
Lord B's on the opposite side of the
river. We stopped at
Mc.Alpine the pearl merchants
18 as we left the village, passed the
burying place of the Mc.Nabs and
then ascended thro woods and passed close to
Lord B's
romantic villa. Passed people reaping — very fine crops and
a great deal cut. the harvest has not been so fine for 20 years.
This time last year it was all green. The opposite banks of the Loch are as much
cultivated and the inclosures reach a good way up the side of
Benlawers. Much flax lying to dry. Good crops of
potatoes & turnips. Stopped at
Acharn
where there was but a small stream dripping over the large slab of rock. In
the Hermitage are some good stuffed
animals and a white fox from
Lochabber. Many wild cats are here caught
in traps. They do not attack man unless provoked. They live a
great deal on game. The approach to
Kenmore
is very pretty, on each side are heights covered with fir and in the valley
between the summit of
Taymouth Castle is
seen rising out of wood. The stone walls are topped with a neat turf coping.
Kenmore is a neat white village standing
on a knoll with half a dozen small houses on each side of a green; the church at
one end and
B's Park
gate at
the other. Below the church and almost washed by the lake stands the schoolhouse
a picturesque building with two fine sycamores uniting their branches over it.
Walked down to the Bridge close on the other side of which is the Kitchen garden
and a long line of glass with an elegant Gothic entrance. Having got the
gardiner to come to us we entered the Park and walked up to a knoll whence we
had a fine view of the lake just as the sun was gone down, every
thing looking very clear.
Benlawers has
still some of last year's snow upon it which is very extraordinary after the
heat of the present summer; but it was much deeper than usual last winter. They
had snow 30 feet deep in the hills by
Acharn
and some in the valleys even in May. Descending we entered a grass walk as
smooth as
a velvet between fine beaches
with the river murmuring on our left. The walks here are all grass and are mown
every week and swept every
other day. The park railing is very
heavy and it is to be hoped will be altered. The park contains red as well as
fallow deer but they are kept separate. The Hills on the left have six square
miles of planting on them. This was done by the
late
Earl and took 16 millions of trees. More than this quantity is
planted on the opposite bank.
Lord B. plants
annually employing as many hands as he can get. He can go 105 miles along his
property which takes in all
Loch Tay &
Loch Earne
and great part of
Loch Awe
and reaches nearly as far as
Inverary. He
has 1700 families who pay rent and in the Irish Rebellion raised without
difficulty three battalions of 700 men each. We went up to the house which has
three stories besides the basement one. The two upper ones are all bedrooms.
Round the basement runs an arcade which is to connect the wings with the body of
the house, the ground for the latter is staked out and they will be begun
immediately. In front of the
house is an ample flat lawn beyond
which are woody heights on which is a fort with a battery of 34 Guns. Two of
them are 24 pounders. The drawing room occupies the whole length of the front
taking in five windows and seems a delightful room. We looked into the hall and
staircase which was just lighted by two magnificent candelabras and looked
beautifully light and airy. In it are two
busts of George
III and
William III. The house has
been finished six years.
We went down a lime avenue a quarter of a mile beyond then wound round to the
Chinese bridge which we crossed and
returned by a broad green walk to the bridge at Kenmore. The entrance for carriages is near the Fort, and when
guests arrive a bugle is sounded which echoes finely. Lord B. also keeps a piper and a band of wind instruments. The
patches of land I observed in Benlawers this
morning inclosed by stone walls are each of them let to a small
tenant.
Lord Glenorchy came of age last year
when they had rejoicings for 7 days. They had the
Russian
Duke here the other day when a royal Salute was fired from the
Battery. There is a school of 150 children at the village kept by
Mr Armstrong; he
receives £30 a year from the Highland Society and the rest of his emolument is
made up by quarter pence. The children pay for reading and writing 3
s. a year for Latin 6
s
and many learn latin and Greek. Both boys and girls are taught here; the girls
learn needlework at other small schools. There is no Sunday School, but they are
all taken to Kirk by their Parents. The
bridge built here was all at the expence of the
late Earl except £1000 4/
6. was paid by Government. The
present
Lord is s
d. to distribute £2000
annually among the poor and gave £500 on his son's coming of age. The family
generally stay here from July to January. Tomorrow
a market is
expected here for cattle, butter, cheese wool &c — We our reached auberge at
8. after a delightful walk.
Sep. 17. Our Inn here was the Breadalbane
arms the crest of which is a Boar's head and the motto "Follow
me." The only shops in the place are a Baker's, Haberdasher's, and Watchmaker's.
We got up early and found the green crowded with pedlars and other people
putting up their booths. Sketched the school house while the horses were getting
ready and then took
the road to
Dunkeld which goes on the South Side of the
Tay and is very Superior to the other w
h. is rather less hilly.
We ascended a steep hill and stopped at the foot in front of which are two lines
of guns on a smooth lawn. Hence is a magnificent view of the Castle, woods & Loch. Beneath us we saw the
grooms bringing round the shooting poneys to the door. The sweep of the
Tay seen from hence is also very fine.
A little further on we came to the Porter's Lodge which is
handsome Gothic and irregular. The park wall has a coping of schist built in the
form of battlements w
h. has a good effect.
v Soon after we came to a
Druidical temple on the right consisting
of three circles of stones the largest of which is 50f
t. in ,Diam
r. [Diameter] Descended to the
Tay;
Castle Menzies on the opposite bank an old
turretted house belonging to
Sir O Neil
Menzies who has
an estate of 5 or 6000 a year
here.
Gen. Wade's Bridge on the left. Got to
Aberfeldy at 1/2 past
11. The Muslin manufactories there are broken
up. There are a number of Inns. The maid who waited on us at breakfast has "sair
e'en" and wore a necklace made of Druidical beads which are sometimes picked up
in this neighbourhood as a charm to cure them. We walked afterwards to the
falls of the Moness where there
is but little water, but a fine glen and very high crags. The
Landlord of the
Inn told us that
Lord B. had £72000 a year, and that the land on
Benlawers was let for £3 a Scotch acre.
This gentleman
^whose name was Mc.Naughton sported a
splendid escutcheon of his own, with stags for supporters, a castle for his
crest and "I hope in God" for his motto. Past
Aberfeldie the vale widens; there is much corn and most if cut.
Met a number of people
going to
Kenmore market. Came to
Grand
Tulloch on the right a picturesque castle belonging to
Sir G. Stewart. Several villas on the opposite bank
all white with plantations stretching up the hills behind. This vale is very
much like the vale of the
Clyde between
Lanark and
Hamilton, perhaps less rich & more wild & romantic.
Stopped a short time to bait at
Balnaguard
and then ascending a hill had a view of
Logierait
The
Tumel joining the
Tay and the vale of the former river up
to
Killicranky. Here we turned our backs on
the romantic scenery which leads to
Blair
Athol, and the
Dunkeld woods
began to open in front. Passed several pretty places, particularly
Kinnaird with high crags behind and a view of the
vale in front. The wood becomes luxuriant as we descended lower into the valley.
Saw some stacks thatched with broom. Before
reaching
Inver returned to the right and walked up a mile to
the
Rumbling Brig, where the fine cleft in
the rock and the impetuous pouring of the torrent called forth our admiration.
From the bridge is a distant view of the town of
Dunkeld — returned by path thro' larch wood 25 y
rs. old and very tall for that age. Went along the
Banks of the
Bran where there is a seat with
a circle of Larches round it.
Ossian's cave
a small hollow formed
by some pieces of rocks. Farther on is a
pretty little plot of ground ornamented with a great variety of different kinds
of heath. Came to
Ossian's hall where the
water pours down a large slap of rock in three parallel streams. We went from
hence thro' a nursery and into the great road which soon brought us to
Inver where we met the carriage and soon
reached
Dunkeld. The woods and ways here
look as fine
as ever. The South Side of the bridge was built on
dry land and the channel made under it for the river which before pressed too
close upon the town and overflowed it. The town is very neat and great part was
rebuilt by
the Duke. It is all of grey stone.
We immediately proceeded to make the tour of the
Duke's
grounds. The paddock extending from the house is nothing like so
large as the Park at
Taymouth.
We descended by the flower garden filled with American plants which do not
thrive here to the river, where the view is most beautiful.
The Duke is now at
Blair
Athol, between w
h. and
Dunkeld he spends all the time from June to Jan
y. He has 100000 acres of wood some of w
h. was planted by
the late
Duke but the greater part by him as he has been planting
constantly for the last 40 years. He has now
^been
selling larches to Government for building frigates.
20 Here are some excessively fine firs and larches and among
the latter are the two first ever planted in
Scotland each containing about 200 solid feet of timber and 15
feet span at the bottom. A House has
^been built close
to his own by
the Duke for his children's
Governess, which spoils his view very much and blocks up the ground between
it
^him and the river. The ferry where
people used formerly to cross the river was in the middle of the lower walk —
this was altered when the bridge was built and made to wind up the hill above
the town. The old ferry house still forms a picturesque object. Observed a
singular larch tree in which a branch had again grown into the trunk of the
tree
21
The largest fish here are about 90 yrs. old. We got
in at ½ past 7. Soon after a stage came in wh. in
summer was 3 times a week from Edinburgh to
Inverness. Took a moonlight walk in the
eveng. below bridge down left bank of the river.
Sep 18. Fine morning — Breakfasted at ½ past 7 and went to
inspect the East end of the
Cathedral which
the Duke is repairing assisted by
Government. It was fitted up some years ago as a church but in a poor miserable
style with common wooden windows. Stone window frames according to the old
design are now put and the inside is stoothed and stuccoed and has a groined
ceiling. The most eastern extremity where there is a
large
window is parted off for the vestry, the church being quite large enough without
it. In the nave of the
Cathedral which is
unroofed is a pulpit from whence the sacrament is given once a year when this
ruinous pile is quite filled. At half past eight we crossed the bridge and bade
adieu to Highland Scenery; passed under
Birnam
wood — people quarrying and rolling stones down the hill to
build a wall at it's base. A road on the opposite
side of the
river follows the windings of the
Tay to
Perth. Ascending a hill we had a lovely
view of a bend of the
Tay it's course thro'
a rich vale with
Murthly castle, and the
Ochils in the distance.
Auchtergaven is a thriving manufacturing village
with pink stone houses roofed with blue slate. Soon after passed a high pole
surmounted with a weather cock placed on a high mound in honor of it's being a
boundary of
Lord Lynedoch's estate to the
North.
Extensive bleaching grounds;
crossed the
almond; Scone
opposite a handsome irregular pile of brown stone with many towers. There is a
fine strait approach to
Perth w
h. is a very handsome town; the houses on the green
as you enter are extremely dashing with their stone pillars and ornaments. We
walked about the town and shopped there was a great bustle being a market day
and a number of Highland Soldiers with their music playing. We afterwards went
up to
Kinnoul Hill; the latter part of the
walk is thro' wood and very steep; when you emerge from this you stand at the
edge of a precipice 600 f
t.
perp
r. [perpendicular] and have a magnificent bird's eye view of the river and vessels below,
and of the
Ochil and
Lomond Hills in the distance. Got back at 1/2 past 2 — Lunched
and started again. We next passed some handsome barracks on entering the town
and on leaving it came to an immense and well
constructed
building which was made for a
depot for French
prisoners and contained some thousands of them. It is now used
for stores.
Dunsinane we left far on our
left but perceived it's hill in the distance. There is a fine avenue to the town
on this side which puts one in mind of
France. Wound along the base of
Moncrief a fine ridge of wood and rocks —
Ochils in front. Their Eastern extremity is sloping
and woody. Crossed the
Earn; children with
light blue caps. Turned
to the right through glen with close
rocky banks and ash trees growing luxuriantly. Workmen blasting rock to widen
the road. Crossed the
Fargo and entered
Fifeshire and soon after
Kinrossshire. Asking an old man what was the
separation between them, he replied "this sma' burnie decides the business."
Ascended a hill and came in sight of
Lomond
a pointed mountain, which a countryman who overtook me on horseback
told me was rich in gold silver coal lime and some other
valuable productions which I forget. The Road is dull & barren for some
miles when it comes in sight of
Loch Leven.
Passed
Forth Mills a thriving village and
stopped at
Kinross Green a good inn before
you come to the town.
Graham is the principal
proprietor —
Blair is another — they divide
the take between them. We got excellent accommodation here. The
Caudron Linn &c are between this place and
Stirling.
Sep. 19.
We made our entrée into
Edinburgh by
Princes Street
where a fine new Gothic church stared me in the face close to the old one at the
base of the
Castle. Drove to
Dumbeck's where we secured rooms & then walked
out. The
North loch Bridge has been
disfigured by some large houses built from the
Register
office to the bridge which intercept the view. The improvements
on
Calton hill are astonishing. The road has
been blasted along the rock and is now almost completed. It is paved with square
cubes
of granite taken from
Salisbury
Crags, on each side is a footpath and towards the precipice a
low parapet wall. From the end of
Princes
Street to
Calton Hill has
been thrown the
Regent's bridge a single
arch of immense span and depth. Above the Parapet on each side is a triumphal
arch & colonnade. Passing over it you come to
Hume's
monument rising from the burying ground on the right; and then
approach the
Gaol behind which rises the
Governor's house composed of some
fine towers irregularly built upon the verge of the precipice.
Next to the Prison comes the
Bridewell and
beyond that
^will be the Debtor's Gaol, the entrance to
which from the road is just completed. Above us on the left we had
Nelson's pillar near which is the observatory — a
Grecian lodge of very pretty architecture is being built close to it. Fine
sunset — succeeded by a shower.
Sep. 20. Rain all day. At 11 we went to St. Paul's church in York place close
by. It is
Gothic with a small tower at each of the four corners.
The inside is very neat with a groined roof and a handsome window; the galleries
on each side add to the accommodation but spoil the look of the building. They
are supported by Gothic ornaments. The organ and singing were very fine.
Alison preached; an oldish and respectable
looking man. His text was "Lord what shall I do to inherit eternal life?" Called
on
Mr Bell and
went in his carriage to
St.
George's Charlottes Square, for the evening service.
Mr
Thomson preached. The service began with a Psalm, then followed a
long Prayer and the Sermon; after which was a Christening for which every body
staid the father came up to the pulpit with his child to have it baptised. after
this there was a prayer and a psalm & lastly a few words of dismissal. We
dined at our hotel at 5. —
21. A fine morning. Breakfasted and walked out at ½ past 8. We went under the
Regent's bridge and thro' dirty streets
into the High street —
thence to
Holyrood. The palace is nearly all
of the time of
Charles II. except the old
towers which were built by
James V; but the
chapel which is now in ruins was built by
David in 1100. He founded it on being saved from being gored by
a stag in hunting. In the long Gallery or ball room are the pictures of all the
old Scotch Kings and the line is brought down to
Charles
II. The
Duke of Hamilton is
hereditary Gov
r. [Governor] of the Palace and has a suite
of rooms as have several
other noblemen. The state rooms are occupied by
Colonel
Nairne. The Gallery was used as a chapel by the
French Princes during their stay here. In the
adjoining rooms saw pictures of
Mary — Earl of Lennox
father of
Bothwell22 —
Bothwell —
D. of Hamilton beheaded in
Cromwell's time. The beautiful
miniature of
Mary is gone as it belonged to one of the
^ladies in
the train of the French court who took it away when she quitted this
place. —
Above are Mary's state
and
private bedrooms; her dressing room and the boudoir where
Rizzio was murdered. A private staircase leads down to the
Chapel from whence the conspirators ascended. Here are the boots of
Bothwell and his iron helmet and cuirass — The
(beaver) hat of
James I. child linen basket of
Mary —and French dressing box of hers with
partitions and pincushions. That part of the bedroom where
Rizzio was murdered was parted off by the Queen as
may be seen
by the ceiling. Here are portraits of
J. Shore and
N. Gwynne.
23 Went down to the Chapel founded by
David all the Nobility of
Scotland have a right to bury here. The
Ballusses on the North Side are all gone except
two; the chapel has been repaired lately or wd have fallen to pieces. The
Skeletons of some of the old Scotch Kings were shown here till lately.
24 We walked
from hence in to the
King's park, and had
St. Leonard's
crags opposite, behind rises
Arthur's
seat
We went along the valley between it and
Salisbury craigs which is as still and desolate as possible.
Winding thro' this we at length came to that part of the crags where they are
quarrying and then walked along the
way
traversed by Butler
25 and descended by a steep and almost
impracticable track to the Southern
Bar of
Cannongate which leads to
Cowgate. This
^latter is
very narrow and leads under the
South bridge
to the
Grass market.
We
however turned up to the left and walked round by the
College which they are going on with and ornamenting with
pillars the Shafts of which are composed of a single block. Crossing over the
South bridge we came to
Hunter's square and the
Tron church. We then went up
High
Street to the
Commercial
Bank and afterwards to the
Castle. The day was not fine enough to show us the distant
view.
Heriot's Hospital forms a fine feature in
the foreground. A new turret has been built at the highest part of the castle
and rather spoils the effect by it's modern appearance. A keeper has been
appointed for the regalia discovered here and has a salary of £100 a year. They
are not yet shown to the public. Returned in the rain at 1. Got Luncheon and
went to
Fraser's the Jeweller's in
Prince's Street just opposite the
Register Office. Then to
Saunderson's another trinket merchant in
Hunter Square. Saw a large loadstone
supporting a weight of some stone. a curious fish caught with herrings with
peacock colours upon it — preserved in spirits. a boat made by the Esquimaux.
Went to
Allan's a good painter in
Parliament Square. Here we saw an excellent
painting of a conquered
family sold by a Circassian chief to a
Turkish Bashaw.
A Jewish Marriage from the life
price 100G
s.
Inside of cottage 40G
s. both
these much in the style of
Teniers.
Went at 5 to dine with
Mr
& Mrs Bell. Met there
Dr Gregory and a Danish
Doctor travelling for information.
Walter
Scott is a commissary of [...] and has a salary of £100 a year — the place is almost a
sinecure. I heard of his talking of spending Sunday on
the Continent so much more gaiety &c than in
England. A million of Bolls of potatoes have been
sent for from
London, & some in this
neighbourhood have been taken up too early
and spoilt. The
Danish D
r. wo
d. not
allow that the English conquered at
Waterloo. Came away at a little past 9.
22. Wrote letters. Breakfast at 8. Young Bell
called and we walked up Princes Street over
the Mound; passed by the Bank and came to Parliament
square. The Tolbooth was
only pulled down eight months ago. It stood North of the Church and there was a
narrow passage between it ^and the
latter; and the Luckenbooths
were between it and the North side of the Street. Part of the
church which was divided into 4 was devoted to the
Tolbooth. Walked on a little farther and turned down the
West Bow a street winding down a steep
hill, and came to the
grass market which
does not extend so far to the Westward as formerly. Thence to
Heriot's Hospital where a number of children all in
the same dress were playing on the green before it. The building not designed by
Inigo
Jones. It is
ornamented with a number of little picturesque turrets. In the inner court is a
statue of the founder who it is said made a large fortune not by very fair means
and left it all in this way. The number of boys is 175 who are all fed and
clothed; they learn Latin and Greek and must be orphans of decayed tradesmen.
There is a beautiful view from hence of the
castle
rock which rises in a bold perpendicular manner. We returned up
Cowgate and mounted a flight of steps to
Parliament square.
We
went in to see the
Courts. In the center is
a large hall something like
Westminster with
an old wooden ceiling — it contains a
statue of Lord
Forbes. On each side is a Court. The Hall is soon being repaired; on
it's walls are paintings of the
Stewarts, William III and
Anne, and statues of the
late Lord
Melville &
Dr Hugh Blair are to be put up in it. Adjoining are the
Advocate's and Writer's Library, one
over the other and both adorned with pillars
supporting
Galleries for reaching the upper shelves. This building has some
steeples at the top and is not in good taste.
In the Square is a
bronze equestrian statue of Charles II.
adjoining the libraries is a fine new wing with an Ionic Portico. Went back to
the
New Town and past the Catholic Chapel
with a Gothic port — called at
Nasmyth a
landscape painter where we saw
views of Glencoe,
Ld. Roseberry's park,
Loch Katrine &c
His son who lives in
London
paints much better. We went afterwards to
Raeburn's and saw a number of portraits more remarkable for
likeness and expression than beauty of attitude. There is an excellent one of
Mc.Nab chief of a clan, in
a Highland dress; belonging to
Ld. Breadalbane. Little
Ld. Montgomery on a poney —
Lord Hopeton leaving on his horse.
Mrs Brougham. We here took leave of
Mr Bell, and
after buying some plaids and ascending
Nelson's
Tower we returned to
Dumbecks & having paid our reckoning started at 4.
vi
The street by which we left
Edinburgh is
wretchedly dirty & miserably paved; no town wants a new entrance more. We
passed close by
Arthur's Seat & the
King's Park. Approached the
Firth at
Musselburgh — fine view from the hill beyond of
Preston Pans,
Edinbu &c.
Haddington
neat town & clean Inn. Passed by
Lord Wemyss's
staring old chateau
and came thence by Starlight to
Dunbar which
we reached at 8. & stopped at the
new
Inn.
23. We took a walk after breakfast this morning to see the
castle which stands on some bold rocks, thro' which
are two natural arches; the views of the coast, with
N.
Berwick Law &
Bass are
very Romantic.
Lord Lauderdale's house
stands at one end of the town facing the street — and the other front has a
beautiful view to the
Castle & sea.
There is a pier here; which runs up to a mass of basaltic columns. The Solan
Geese which frequent the
Isle of Bass
are very little eaten being fishy and strong 3 sell for 1
s. a peice. We had the carriage open on leaving
Dunbar & had fine coast views, but
missed
Pease bridge the road being carried
over a levelled tract more inland. The people here are much dirtier and envelop
themselves in mantles. Passed
Broxmouth
Duke of Roxburgh's Windmills with double sails
— large inclosures — sea weed spread on fields for manure. after passing
Ayton
Mr
Fordyce's on our left we ascended a high hill and
had then a fine ride along the brows of high cliffs; and soon obtained a distant
view of
Northumberland the
Fern Islands &
Bambrough Castle.
Berwick
is in
England it has one large church but
contains also a number of Scotch Kirks. We got luncheon at the Inn and called on
Mrs Forster
where we staid half and hour. Rain came on as we left
Berwick.
Crossed the
Tweed — passed
Sir C.
Haggerstone's — arrived at
Newham about 7.
Mr Dinning in bed but
came down to us to tea when
Mrs Selby also joined us.
23.27 Rainy morning. Mr N.D. rode over about 11. and I went
over the estate with him. Inspected new plantations — & projected a large
square one near Warnton. Buildings there in
excellent order. Walked in garden with the farmers. Fine
horse
they had for sale. Came down from high ground passed
Mr Pratts, & crossed the road to
Adderstone & returned along the road
to
Newham. Afterwards
Maria & I took a walk up the high ground and in the evening
went to see the threshing machine. Poor
D.
complained much & went to bed very early.
24. We breakfasted early and the morning being fine determined to take Bambrough
Castle in our way to
Alnwick. It was a very bad road and I
walked the greater part of the way before the carriage. We called on Mr
[...] at the Castle who very civilly showed us over it. It
originally belonged to a Trustee whose daughter & heiress married Lord
Greave28 who paid off
a heavy mortage laid on it by Trustee and left the estate to charitable uses.
Sixty years ago Archdeacon
Sharpe grandson of the Archbishop cleared the sand from the Donjon tower & fitted
up a room in it in a rude manner — the
beds being made of masts and Sailcloth. He founded the library and put a gill
tip on the conducter of the tower. Succeeding Trustees built up the remainder of
the castle upon the old foundations. A certain number of children are always
taught fed & clothed here. and there are all sorts of
of
assistance for shipwrecked people. Including
Captain
Manby's invention of fixing a rope. There is a small armoury here
with some old pikes in it. The walls are 11 feet thick; and there is a well cut
155 feet deep in the solid rock. The Castle has often been besieged. Corn is
distributed here at a low rate in times of scarcity. In the library are some of
the books of
Archbishop Sharpe. We went out by
the Sally port and rejoined our carriage at the Inn. Passed
Twizell Hall —
Mr Selby's — and afterwards
Mr Pratts. At
Charlton we turned off a quarter of a
mile to the left and called on
Mr.N. D. and his bride. From
their house you see
Falloden a good sized
red brick building rising out of wood. The Country improves and becomes more
woody on approaching
Alnwick. Three pillars
are seen as you come near it —
one of them
erected
by the
D. of
Northumberland's tenantry in gratitude to him in 1815. It
his^is of the Doric Pestic
order and is surmounted by an iron railing and a Lion; with Esperance en Dieu on
the pedestal; it cost £3000 and subscriptions as small as 5
d. were contributed to it. Crossed handsome bridge
over the
Aln and ascended hill to town.
We went all over the castle which till 60
years ago (when it was rebuilt in the old style by the
Duke) was a
ruin with only a few old towers;
figures are placed along the top in imitation of the old style; few of the
original remain. We entered by an old Saxon Gateway into the Court in w
h. stands the body of the building. To the right of
the entrance is the Dungeon in which are placed some Roman antiquities; an altar
& the heads of some deities — Underneath is a still worse place of
confinement, on the outside
are the marks of where the rack used
to be fixed. Here is the proper measure of the Winchester bushel in bell Metal.
In the Chapel is the long line of
the Duke's
ancestors emblazoned on the walls.
Charlemagne
is at the head; some of his successors married Counts of Louraine who
intermarried with the Percys.
The ancestor of the
Percy's is called
Mainfred A.D. 870. The
first Earl of Percy was in 1100.
At the farther end of the Chapel is the tomb of the
late Duchess who was daughter of the
D. of Somerset and heiress by her mother's side to
the Earls of Northumberland She was Countess in her own right and married
Sir H. Smithson who was created Duke in
1786. The
late Duke was their son. The
Portrait of the late Duchess is haughty & dignified.
In the armoury are suspended the Bugles of the Percy corps
raised by the
late Duke and which he commanded
at
Bunker's Hill. Here is the canoe and
dress of an Esquimaux princess with a double oar. In one part of the walls along
w
h. is a walk is a seat called Hotspur's chair.
There are some old cannons in the lawn but too old to be fired without danger of
bursting. The
Duke &
Duchess are at present at a shooting Box in the West
Side of the Country.
After leaving
Alnwick the Country is rich but hilly. Passed
Nelson's pillar in
Mr Davison's grounds. Several
Gentlemen's seats;
Felton Hall on the right
side of
Feltonbridge a pretty
situed hamlet;
Mr deLisle's on the left. Ascended a
steep hill & reached
Morpeth at 7. and
Newcastle ¼ to 10. lighted with gas from
the streets & houses
The Queen's head
being full we drove to
the Turk's head kept
by
Cumberland Fletcher.
25. The morning was very rainy.
Old Hindmarsh
came to the Market and I found him out and at 1 oclock
Maria & 1 set off in a chaise for
Callerton with him as our outrider. The country is pretty and
the day clearing up I was able to walk all over the estate and we returned to
Newcastle
to dinner. In the evening I saw
Mr Thomas heard from him the acc
t. of the fire at
Hexham (
Col Beaumonts)
–––––
26. This morning we started early — and took the road by ^Corbridge
Hexham & Haltwhistle to Brampton and
thence to E.C. wh. we reached about 6. and walked up to Stone
House before dinner where we found all well. —
Authorial notesi. N.B. We saw different tokens hung up at
the
[...]
^prospective stations of the artisans marking their
degrees of merit for which they receive prizes. —
ii. * called the
Lorn works from the name of this mountainous
district.
iii. * a very pretty setter belonging to our pilot
swam off from land more than a quarter of a mile and reached the
ship.
iv. * The
fishermen today told me they had caught a barrel full sometimes they catch 7
or 8 barrels — at
Ballyhulish some boats
came in loaded which they c
d. not get sale for.
You may buy a barrel for 7
S. –––––
v. The description of the park wall is accompanied by a small
ink sketch showing its crenellated top.
vi. N.B. The floors of the houses in
Edinbr' are called
Lands in the
old Town,
flats in the
new.