[1]
A Tour through part of England and ScotlandBy Eliza Dawson in the Year 1786.
It is natural to suppose a Girl of sixteen, who has never been above thirty miles
from home, should form sanguine expectations from a journey of eight hundred. as
for me who answer that description, I anticipate a prodigious deal of pleasure
from it — and therefore have determin’d to set down every trifling circumstance,
that affords me the least momentary entertainment, — two good reasons induce me
to do it — first as they might probably slip my memory, and by that means I
should lose the satisfaction of reciting them to those from whose indulgence
every pleasure I experience is deriv’d, — and surely our enjoyments would be all
imperfect were we denied the superior gratification of communicating them to
others. — The second inducement is, that doubtless in course of time, Fortune
may be less lavish of her favours than she has been hitherto, and as we are too
apt to lose all remembrance of the former bounties we have enjoy’d. — I may cast
an eye upon this journal and recollect I have no reason to repine, since this
will prove I have had my portion of happiness ––––– These reasons I flatter
myself are not bad ones, — and with these ideas I will avail myself of every
opportunity.
Set off from Oxton July the 23rd about seven o clock having travell’d the road
before as far as Broughbridge, I found
nothing remarkably striking; — one object present’d itself that rather excited
our compassion which was: about half way between Wetherby and B^oroughbridge we observed several Boys assembled; and
when we drew nearer discover’d a cart had been thrown over by the negligence of
one of them, — from negligence it must have been since it had run off the road,
we had not occasion long to examine the
[2] countenances before we found
out which was he, — he seem’d about twelve years old, and never was sorrow more
strongly delineated in any face whatever. — he had been exerting all his
strength, and skill to raise it up again. — but finding his efforts fruitless,
was standing over it — in an attitude of utter stupefaction, - what would I have
given to have help’d him. – it might have been a matter of ridicule to some —
yet who knows but that poor lad might so far incur the displeasure of his master
as to be dismissed his service. [
sic] — perhaps he had no home to go to.
––––– when we consider these things which are very possible, — sure pity must
intrude upon our feelings, — We arrived at
B^oroughbridge about ten and after having
order’d breakfast we desired the waiter to show us to the
DevilsArrows. indeed they may deservedly be
reckon’d great curiosities. — there are three almost in a direct line. the first
is by far the largest in circumference. my Uncle, and Cousin, took the
dimensions. Towards the base it is twenty four feet and appears to be about
twenty one feet high, — the other is considerably higher and of a pyramidical
form, the last resembles it, only not quite so high, it is very remarkable there
is not tradition to be found concerning them. — they are of a gritty nature
resembling fitt’ring stones — I was curious to know what were the ideas of the
common people as I supposed their conjectures would be nearly as
wonderful as the cause which excited them, —
accordingly I ask’d the waiter what was the general Idea of them. “Ma’am
(replied he making an obsequious bow)
Theysay they were shot from
Hamiltonhills.” What makes them entertain that
notion, said I? — “ Because Ma’am (
bowingagain) they are the same kind of stone that is found
there — this was a more reasonable answer than I expect’d — Some of the most
superstitious assert
[3] that they have been shot by the Devil when he
was in a pet with
B^oroughbridge. — certainly he might have chosen a more
eligible situation than
Hamilton Hills to
have discharg’d them from, — as I fancy
^those hills are
above twelve miles from the
illfated town. however
whomever they were shot by they surely must have been, of the family of the
Armstrongs, — The most likely conjecture is that they
are a composition, and have been erected to commemorate the actions of some
Great Men. ––––– When breakfast was over, we proceeded on our route — we were
much pleas’d with a small village call’d
Aizenby situated on the banks of the
river Swale, — a charming view from the north side of
Topcliff down the valley it commands a
good prospect of
Lord Grantham’shouse, and the Vale is pleasantly decorated
with
^the windings of the river, the banks of which are
cover’d with fine trees. — The road to
Northallerton extremely agreeable from the quantity of small
Villages and thatch’d huts, the inhabitants seem’d busily employ’d spinning
worsted, and the children (with countenances that indicate inward serenity and
rosy health) playing at the door, give the whole an air of content extremely
pleasing. — We arrived at
Northallerton
about three, order’d dinner and in the mean time went to see the Sessions Hall,
which they are building it will be an excellent room 60 feet by 32, they are
also building a gaol, and some excellent apartments beneath the spacious Hall, —
for the Governor to reside in this will be a great addition to the town as the
Old Hall is the meanest looking place imaginable. nothing else remarkable at
Northallert it’s a well built town
consisting
^chiefly of one long and spacious street. —
Left it at five, and arrived at
Darlington
by eight.
My Uncle sent
[4] for
Mr
Richardson, and order’d supper.
Mr R — came, spent
^the evening with us, was as
jocose as ever,
and ask’d us to breakfast with him the next morning — we part’d about twelve,
each happy to retire to our several apartments. ––––– Slept well at
Darlington then went to
Mr Richardson’s w
^here we met with a very agreeable reception, both from
Mrs Mowbray and himself.
— the former seems to be very conversable and extremely good temper’d,.
Mr Mowbray was
from home but she introduced us to her young family, which consists of a fine
looking boy about 12 years old and two sweet little Girls. — we stay’d there
till ten which was longer than we intended, but could not resist their pressing
solicitations — (so powerful is persuasion,) — We left
Darlington about eleven, and after some hilly road (in which
my Uncle compassionat’d the poor horse so
much as frequently to alight) we reach’d
Durham about two, and a
Grand and
Solemn procession we made the streets being so uneven
and illpaved as to oblige us to go as slow as possible, — we proceeded to
the Wheat Sheaf (
Mr Shuttons) recommended to us
by
Mr Forster, it
is a most elegant house. was formerly the habitation of a x x x x gentleman
call’d
Reed, it is in a dull part of the Town
but has the advantage of a garden, from which there is a pleasant view of the
Castle and Cathedral — We order’d dinner
after which we took a walk to
the Minster.
There is a most delightful view from
Fromergate
bridge to Newbridge
1
on the West side are sloping gardens, and on the East a high and rugged rock —
on which stands the
Castle and Minster — the
Mill and dam, are nearly between the two Bridges, and add greatly to the beauty
of the charming prospect — this walk led us to the
Cathedral — after having seen
St. Peter’s at
York this appears but trifling
[5] and tho’
considerably smaller it is exactly the same plan, the pillars are heavy and shew
a wretched taste for architecture, whereas those at
York are remark’d for the contrary, — a woman conducted us to
see the curiosities, we were shown five very ancient robes, one was given by
Charles the first, it’s red velvet
curiously inwrought with gold, it has been intended for a cloak, and on the hood
is the figure of
David, with
Goliah’s head in his hand: the other four are said
to have been here ever since the church was founded, they are different colour’d
velvets cover’d with emblematical figures taken from scripture, inwrought with
gold, silver, and various colour’d silks, — there is an ancient manuscript
(concerning the founding of this Cathedral) which I copied literally it was as
follows. —
2
The above manuscript appears to be a very great contradiction otherwise upon
consideration Aldwin must have been a pretty
good age, when he sat himselfdownatDurham. —
There is a place in this Cathedral — called the nine alters, where the Bishops
were formerly interred, they have lately dug up this place the
[6]
Coffin of
Anthony Beck — Patriarch of
Jerusalem, who died in the year 1283, we
were shown this coffin which is Iron and has had a wood one within it, it is all
shatter’d in pieces, (and though it was Sunday) a resistless impulse inclin’d me
to steal a morsel of it — I hope the Old Patriarch will give me
absolution as I did it from profound respect to
hismemory. — They also shew us a shoe and spur (at this
place) the former measures 14 inches, and ¾ in length, and is of propo
^rtionable breadth, this my
Uncle measured himself otherwise we could not have believed it,
the spur is equally curious the woman gravely assured us, it was
St Cuthbert’s, — be that
as it may, we are not bound to credit her assertion. — most certainly it must
have
belong’d to a
Saint, as
it is widely different to those shoes that would fit the
degeneratefeet of the present age, I could not help making a
comparison between it, and the small toe’d slipper, of the modern
Beau; — we left
Durham about six and after a pleasant ride of 14 miles (in
which we had a fine view of
Lumley Castle
(The seat of the
Earl of Scarb^orough) from
Chester le
street), — we reach’d
Lofthouse’sthe Old White Hart in
Newcastle about nine, where we met with good beds,
and excellent accomodations, as it was too late to see any thing of the Town
that night, we rose at six in the morning went to
^see
the
assembly rooms, they are indeed very
light, and elegantly finished infinitely superior to those at
York, the dimensions of the large room are 94 feet
long by 34 broad, and 36 high, — from this we went to see the Glass manufactory,
it is curious but is a scene which rather disgusts than affords satisfaction. —
as the pallid looks of the workmen
[7] plainly shew it must be a most
unhealthy business, after having seen these things which we were inform’d were
all at
Newcastle worth notice we return’d to
the inn, and breakfasted. —
Newcastle is a
large populous town, the streets in general narrow and confined, extremely
hilly, and disagreeable to travel through, — the south entrance into the town
must prejudice many against it, one is obliged to descend a prodigious steep
hill called
Gateshead, down which few have
courage to remain in their carriages, for our parts we did not hesitate a moment
but gladly alighted and proceeded slow, and cautiously, — from this hill one
might have a view of the town, were it not immers’d continually, in one black
cloud of smoke, which proceeds from the quantity of Glasshouses Potteries
&c; When breakfast was over we set out for
Morpeth, and reach’d that place about 12, the inn there is kept
by
Nelson a Yorkshireman, from whom we met
with uncommon civility — This is a neat built place pleasantly situated but
nothing in it worth observation. We turned at
Morpeth from the great road in order to see
Warkworth a place celebrated in verse,
3 it was six
miles out of our way
^and the road being a private one
is not very good, though the views from it are beautiful, which by keeping the
attention awake smooth the roughness of the way. — on the right of the road
about eight miles from
Morpeth, stands
Witherington Castle, it attracted our
attention and being near the road my
Uncle and
I alighted to take a nearer view of it — we enquired of a Peasant that was by if
it was inhabited. (as it had a very antique appearance.) He reply’d it was, and
by a
Mr Loraine
and conducted us into the field where the Castle stood. there I sat down to take
a sketch of it, and my
Uncle stood by me. — we
had not remain’d long in this situation, when we observed a Gentleman of very
genteel appearance
[8] approach. he accosted us very politely, and my
Uncle apologized for our intrusion by
saying we were so much struck with the beauty of the situation that we had taken
the liberty to alight in order to make a short sketch of it, he reply’d there
was no occasion for any apology. he look’d upon it as a high compliment, by this
time I had finished — and he beg’d us to go up to the Castle (which was not
above 100 yards off) and dine with him, this kindness we were obliged to decline
as we had got a snack at
Morpeth, and our
time was precious it being now three o clock, — however he earnestly intreated
us to take a glass of wine, — we follow’d him — and he conducted us into an
elegant apartment where he introduced us to
Mrs Lorain, an old Lady, who probably
might be her Mother, a young Lady of about twenty five, and two sweet little
Girls about five, or six. — they were at dinner and seconded
Mr Loraine in intreating
us to partake with them. — we still resisted their solicitations but drank their
healths in a glass of wine — we staid with them about a quarter of an hour and
left
Witherington Castle highly pleased with
the polite hospitality of its agreeable inhabitants. I cannot for
^ego the pleasing subject without giving a short
description of these persons who had afforded us such entertainment,
Mrs Loraine who seems
about 25 has a mild and placid countenance, expressive dark eyes, and a
beautiful complexion, her figure tho not tall is elegant and her dress and
manner easy, and genteel,
Mr
Lorraine is about six 6 foot high extremely well made, has a
pleasing and sensible countenance. I was struck when in the Castle with a great
resemblance between this family and that of our
Eubanks at
Bolton Percy, the same kind of elegance and domestic
tranquillity seems to preside over both — The Castle stands upon,
[9] a
fine eminence and commands a beautiful view of the sea, it belongs to
Sir George Warren to whom the hospitable inhabitant
is tenant. —
We got to Warkworth about five and after
committing our horses to an Ostler’s care, we walk’d to the Hermitage, it is a most delightful spot on the
banks of the River Coquet. the best
tradition that is to be found concerning this place is Dr
Percy’s beautiful poem call’ [sic]The Hermit of
Warkworth, it is hewn out of the solid rock, which must have
been an arduous task, as there are several different cells, and in one of them
the very image of which the Poet speaks, — the statue is much the worse for age, as there are
not now the least remains of beauty, — alas she has now no Hermit to count his
beads over her inanimate resemblance,4 — The walk to this place is charming, on one side are most
stupendous rocks overhung with trees, and wild shrubs, and on the other hand is
the river which one may just discern through the leaves of those trees which are
planted on its banks, — When we return’d from thence we walk’d up to the Castle it is a fine old ruin situated on an
eminence and commands one of the most delightful prospects imaginable, on the
right at about the distance of three miles is Coquet
Island — surrounded by the German
Ocean, it belongs to the Duke of
Northumberland, who has made several plantations upon it stock’d
it with Cattle and has built there by way of ornament something resembling the
Tower of a Church. nobody lives upon it as the sea at high water frequently
makes depradations. — On the left from the same eminence is a romantic view of
the Vale of Coquet (in which is situated the
Village of Warkworth) beautifully
interspersed with wood, and water, the river
Coquet winding through it; — after having enjoy’d these charming
prospects we return’d to the inn it was the best in the Village; but a paltry
one notwithstanding, — after a little refreshment we set forward to Alnwick. the road laid close to the Ocean
[10] and the uncommon serenity of the evening conspired to make our ride
as agreeable as possible, we arrived at the
White
Swan in
Alnwick about nine,
and after supper retired to bed, much pleased with our days amusement. —
In the morning my Uncle call’d upon Mr Grey, gave him
Mr Forster’s
letter and brought him to breakfast with us, when that was over he conducted us
to the Castle, — we were first shewn the
stables which are within the great court, — there are stands for sixteen horses
and it is ornamented with a handsome cornish of plaister. — we then proceeded to
the Castle it is not possible for me to
give an adequate idea of the Grandeur of its appearance, — the man inform’d us
the Gateway has been built 430 years, in part of which there is a dungeon which
was formerly a place of confinement for condemn’d criminals, on the floor above
the dungeon there are a large quantity of cannon balls (64 pounders). — We were
then shewn the inner rooms they are all equally superb and ornamented chiefly
with emblematical figures of war and ^on the cornice the
arms of all the family and branches of the house of Northumberland, there is a
spacious library well furnish’d though it is the Chapel which is elegant beyond
description — the pilasters, and cornice being enriched with gold. on the walls
is the Genealogy of the family traced from the earliest periods down to the
present time, the end window is an exact imitation (tho in miniature) of the
East window of St. Peters at York. — it was done in London and the colours are remarkably fine. below this window
is a large marble tomb ornamented with elegant sculpture dedicated to the memory
of the late Dutchess of Northumberland. — In
one of the rooms is a fine picture of that lady it is
admirably done she has a most majestic figure and a fine open countenance and
the drapery, which adds much to the
[11] grandeur of the piece, is a
morone colour’d robe embroider’d with gold —
When we return’d from the CastleMr Grey
accompanied us to the Duke’s mount an
eminence about three miles west of Alnwick.
the ride was extremely pleasant most of the way through a shrubbery and
plantation on the top of the emi^nence is a beautiful
Obelisk of Gothic structure. there are stairs to the top of it. it is thirty
yards high and there are 131 steps to the second terrace, we ascended it and
from thence saw some very fine and extensive views, ^on
the West there is a grand and rugged prospect of Hills and Mountains, the
highest of which was Cheviot, — on the East a fine view of Alnwick Castle, and in the valley a prospect of a
ruin, called Hull’s Tower which stands on
the banks of the Alne, the river that runs
through Alnwick, the banks of which are
finely ornament’d with plantations — this view is terminated by the sea, —
The late Duke has made great improvements
about this place and they all spoke of him with great respect. — From the mount
we return’d to the Inn took leave of Mr Grey and left Alnwick about twelve and being inclined to see
Bambrough Castle we dined at North Charlton —, six miles from Alnwick — where we got a good lamb steak tho I dare
say the house is not much frequented, as there was neither Ostler, or Waiter,
and a cannyold woman served in every capacity, — from this place
we turned to the right from the high road to get to Bambrough, the road was bad and we did not reach it till five —
We gave our horses to the care of a boy and walk’d down to the sea the Castle is situated upon a prodigious rock,
which at the time of high water is wash’d by the sea – This Castle belongs to Lord
Crue by whose family it had been endow’d. the institution is a
very humane one being founded for the relief of distress’d Seamen. — We stay’d there about an hour and then set forward for
Belford, the road part of the way
[12] lays across the sands we were overtaken by a sharp shower, reached
Belford about eight, where we met with
comfortable accomodations at
the Blue Bell —
and took up our residence till morning. –––––
We rose at Six on Wednesday morning July the 26th and
reach’d Halls at Berwick by ten, where we
order’d Breakfast and sent for Robin Straughen
—, he appears to be about seventy, I no sooner told him I came from Mrs Brudenell and had
brought him a letter, than tears started into his eyes — “Oh God bless her how
does she do Ma’am” said the old man — he beg’d me to read her letter and at the
end of every sentence cried out, “Lord love her, — Lord lover her,” — I told him
he seem’d to have great respect for Mrs B, — and assured him she had the
same for him, “respect Madam” (said he,) “I have known “her ever since she was
born, I lived with Captain and Mrs
Heburn above 13 years, and they used me more like a friend
than a servant. aye God knows, when the Captain died, I lost a father as well as her — poor thing when
she could scarce walk it used no end to
nestle about me, and if it saw any body in distress, would have gone to my
Master to have beg’d a halfpenny for them”. ––––– he ceased from an inability to
articulate more. — never was any thing more affecting than the artless yet
expressive stories of this poor old Man, — and his ^countenance while he was dwelling on this theme would have been a
subject for the pencil of a Guido. Mrs Brudenell had
desired him to take a letter from her to Foulden, which he did, along with a note from me to Miss Wilkie, telling her we would call there in the
course of the day, we then set out for Mrs Greys in the parade. — we were
shewn in and immediately after came in Mrs Grey and a gentleman just arrived
from London, whose name was
[13]
Sanford. — we present’d
Mrs Grey with
Mr Forsters letter by
way of introduction she is a most agreeable woman, and for her years (which must
be fifty) she is remarkably handsome, had a fine open countenance expressive of
Benevolence and goodwill. — She has met with no small number of calamities, —
lost the kindest and most affectionate of husbands when her children were all
young, — and her eldest daughter a most aimiable woman who married a
Mr Hall, was suddenly
snatch’d from her, notwithstanding her feelings are strong — she supports these
severe strokes with becoming firmness, — she ask’d us to dine to which we
consented, soon after appear’d
Miss Grey she
had no sooner enter’d than she commanded our admiration, had no sooner spoke
than she won our esteem, — she walk’d out with us shew’d us the ramparts, and a
prodigious large Brewery, they have not yet begun to brew for exportation the
barley being so dear of late, the Copper is large enough to boil 76 casks, 36
gallons each, — from thence we return’d to dinner, during which time
Old Robin came with a polite note from
Mrs Wilkie, telling us
Mr and
Miss Wilkie were gone to
Edinburgh races, but she would be glad of our
companies to take a bed with her at
Foulden
house. — accordingly we were obliged to take leave of the two
agreeable Ladies in the parade. — and tho’ our acquaintance had been so short I
could not refrain from tears at parting. I never
^saw
one so thoroughly form’d to please as
Miss
Grey, she seems about twenty two, her person tho’ not tall is
extremely elegant, her countenance beautiful and expressive, mild and gentle,
tho’ lively, and animated, she seems (to borrow the elegant expression of the
sentimental Journalist) she seems to be “All the heart wishes, or the eye looks
for in Woman.” —
5
The Gentlemen were equally pleased, we called to thank Robin for his trouble
[14] and left
Berwick not without casting
x x x x many a look behind trying to trace the road to the parade, —
We reach’d
Fouldon about seven its a most
beautiful situation and an elegant and uniform building, we were graciously
received by
Mrs
Wilkie. she is a fine handsome looking Woman, has a regular set
of features is tall and rather fat, — tea was ready, after which she took us to
see the
Village which has been lately
rebuilt by
Mr
Wilkie, she said she dare say we had heard much of Scotch dirt,
but for the credit of
Foulden, she would
shew us some Cottages that would incline us to think there are a few exceptions,
we accordingly went into two of them, and I never saw cleaner places in my life,
— we walk’d till supper after which we retired to rest. — in the morning a bad
prospect open’d to us, it rain’d hard, and the wind was extremely high,
Mrs Wilkie
intreated us much to stay the day with her, but
^we were
obliged to decline her invitation. and about twelve o’clock Thursday July the
27
th, we left
Fouldon
House, it was fair but the wind increas’d. the road lies across
a barren moor called
Cowdingham moor six
miles in length upon which neither tree or bush can flourish, it lies exceeding
high, and on the right about a quarter of a mile is the sea, — on this moor we
were in a dreadful situation, the wind was so very boisterous it was impossible
for the Mare to proceed, and very unsafe for us to stay in the carriage, as it
was very probable it might be blown down since there was a load of hay in that
situation, upon level-ground, we thought it therefore safer to alight and I took
fast hold of the chair behind. and by that means was dragg’d on, otherwise I
could not possibly have kept my feet, my
Cousin lead the horse
[15] and in this trim we walk’d
for above three miles, — I had forgot to mention one circumstance which was
notwithstanding I held my hat on the wind tore it off and away it flew towards
the sea, — I bade farewell to it but my
Cousin
pursued and luckily overtook it. — we began to find ourselves exceedingly hungry
about 4 o’clock. so we sat down in a quarry hole, that was by the road side and
regaled ourselves with some peppercake, which our considerate old Friend at home
had provided us with, this refreshment enabled us to proceed stoutly. — about
half way between
Press Inn and
Dunbar there is a valley called
Pease Valley, over it they are building a Bridge
which is one hundred and thirty seven feet high, and consists of four arches.
this
^is to render the road more commodius. as there is
no water in the Valley, — when we had pass’d this place we were a little
sheltered by some Hills on the left so we ventured to mount, — and got safe to
Dunbar by six. it is a well built place
but the Inn is the worst looking house in it. here we order’d dinner and in the
meantime took a walk to see the Oyster shell, which we had heard so much of.
—
It is the property of a Mr
Fall, the present Mayor of the place, we askd permission to see
it. but found it was not very usual for strangers. — a Lady who we supposed to
be Mrs fall told
us we were very welcome, by she did not think it was so great a curiosity, it
was sent her from the East Indies where she
believed they were plentiful. — she order’d a servant to carry us into the
garden where it was, it measures in length thirty three inches and is of
proportionable bre^adth, and the lady inform’d us it
weighs one hundred and thirty seven pounds. This is but half the shell. it
resembles a muscle more than an Oyster, as it has been united to the other part,
by the side, and not the end, this was all at Dunbar worth
[16] observation. we then return’d to the
Inn and dined, and hearing it was twelve miles good road to
Haddington and our accomodations none the best at
Dunbar. — we set forward for the first
mention’d place which we reached by nine, at
the Blue
Bell we found ourselves comfortably situated, which compensated
for the rude buffeting of the wind. —
I could not help making comparisons between this day and the agreeable one we
spent before with Mrs and Miss Grey. it
furnish’d me with a fund of reflections, and serv’d to shew how whimsically life
is checquerd, — We staid at Haddington all
night it is a small but well built town, and stands in a fine fertile valley —
We left this place ^on Friday morning about 11 o clock
it rained all the way to Edinburgh, which
place we reach’d about two. we drove up to Walkers
hotel by the recommendation of Mrs Wilkie, but he inform’d us his
house was entirely fill as were the other two Hotels but was so obliging as to
get us private lodgings next door at a Mrs Hutchinsons, and very comfortable
ones they were, — Our old Hostess was very civil and gravely assured me her beds
were free from vermin, — it rain’d so hard we could see very little of the town,
in entering it we met several elegant carriages coming from the races. — after
dinner we sent to Mr
Meliss and Miss Wilkie the
latter who was in the same street came immediately was much surpriz’d to see us.
— Mr Meliss was
not long after, and gave us a polite welcome to Scotland, we had fix’d to go to the play that night which we
did, and were vastly entertain’d with Mrs Jordan — who play’d Miss Hayden in
the trip to Scarb^orough the Theatre was much crowded, and nothing could equal
the encomiums bestow’d on Mrs Jordan, — The
Farce was Comus in
which Mrs —
[17] Kenedy sang (Sweet
Echo)6 — most divinely, ––––– Mr Meliss return’d to Supper with us.
— and the next morning breakfasted and afterwards walk’d with us into the
New Town, — nothing can equal the
elegance and regularity of the buildings, every dwelling is a sumptuous mansion.
— the plan of the town is one long and spacious street, called Georges Street — and on each side of it, Two rows
one facing the Forth, and the other the
Old Town, from these rows are branching
streets into the middle on, — which form some elegant squares.— The three
principal streets extend from East to west and are intended to be each one mile
and a half in length.— after this we called upon Miss
Wilkie to ask her to with us to Leith races, to which we readily consented. it unfortunately
rain’d the whole time were there, — Leith is
about two miles from Edinburgh, close by the
sea, the horses run upon the sands so they are guided by the tide. We went in a
hack Coach. there was the most elegant shew of carriages I ever beheld, a great
many Nabobs, the colour of whose horses it was hard to distinguish from the
superb richness of their harness. The Lord Provost Sir —
Blair stands at the winning post, to decide the Race, and
Soldiers are placed along the cords to keep good order, the Race was over about
two, and we return’d and set Miss Wilkie down
number 12 Princes Street. — Mr Wilkie called before
dinner and ask’d us to go to see the new assembly
rooms, when the Large room is intirely finish’d it will be
prodigiously elegant, — it is ninety six feet in length, and of proportionable
breadth and height, and is beautifully oramented [sic] with an elegant
cornice and very fine large Glass Chandeliers. — from thence we return’d to
dinner, Mr Wilkie
took his leave, and Mr
Meliss sat down with us —
[18] during the time we had
been at the
assembly rooms, he had been
getting us tickets to see
Mrs
Jordan in
the Country
Girl. and
Mrs Kenedy in
the Poor Solider, that evening, — as soon as dinner was
over, we took a walk into the
Old Town,
where they are making great improvements it is a dirty looking place, and the
houses extremely
^high being most of them eight or ten
stories — and one we saw that was fourteen, the rooms are large, and one flat,
(as they call them) has every convenience for accomodating a moderate siz’d
family, — One pleasing Idea suggests itself while one is surveying the
stupendous height of those buildings, which is, the Goodness of Providence in so
seldom permitting fire to make depradations here, — alas what would become of
those placed in the upper stories, — what thousands of souls must inevitably
perish, without a possibility of receiving any Earthly assistance. ––––– Happily
they have no want of Earthly assistance. — Their protection is from above, –––––
The prison at
Edinburgh has a mean
appearance, there is a part of the roof left flat, into which a door opens. from
a cell and upon this place the unhappy criminals are executed, — this prison is
in the most publick part of the Town. ––––– when we return’d
Mr Meliss took us to see
an Exhibition of paintings they were extremely fine, and a prodigious quantity
of them. There was
Robertson,
the
great Historian, a fine pleasant animated countenance, and
another of
Dr Webster who brought about the act wherein Clergymens
widows are well provided for, in
Scotland,
the design is a room, in which he is sitting with the act of Parliament in his
hand, there is a picture in the back ground hung against the wall, which
represents a Widow weeping over the urn of her departed husband, and surroun
^ded by a young, and
[19] numerous offspring, the
Countenances of the whole groupe are well express’d — from this place we went to
the
Theatre which
^was infinitely more crowded than the night before, — and the Ladies
still finer dress’d Plumes nodding, and diamonds glittering
innumerable, I dont think Scotch Women remarkable for beauty in
general but this night there were many fine faces graced the boxes, one I
particularly remark’d for beauty of countenance, and elegance of figure, her
name Macdonald. —
Mrs
Jordan was great beyond description in
the Country Girl, — and
Mrs Kenedy pleased much
in the Songs (How sweet the love that meets return,) and Farewell to Locharber.
— in
the Poor Soldier
she is far inferior to
Mrs
Jordan, —
Mr
Meliss and
Mr
John Stewart return’d to sup with us, — and in the morning the
former and
Mr
Wilkie came to breakfast, when that was over, we all went to
the Castle. it stands upon an amazing
high rock, from which there is a fine extensive prospect, being Sunday we were
not allow’d to see the armoury or any thing in the Castle, for the Scotch are
strict observers of the Sabbath. the 36 regiment is at present garrison’d there,
— from thence we went to
Coulton hill upon
which is a burying place in which is
David
Humesmonument, it is a very humble affair, but
was built according to his request, this hill is on the East side the Town.
There is a fine prospect from it, but not so extensive as from the
Castle Hill, ––––– From this place we went to
Holyrood House the ancient Palace of the
Scottish Kings, to recount the curiosities of this place would require a volume,
— therefore shall only mention a few particulars — we were first shewn a long
gallery full of fine ancient pictures, among which is an
original painting of the unfortunate
Mary I own I was a little disappointed in her, as all Historians
agree, she
[20] was uncommonly beautiful, but I was inform’d there is
one in the possession of the Mariners company at
Leith which she herself gave them, — and that it
^is beyond description beautiful, — this gallery is fifty
six yards long and
^the wall intirely cover’d with
pictures, — of all those who signalized themselves in the service of their
Country, ––––– from this place we were taken into a kind of vault, where they
shew’d us the thigh bone of
James the Fifth
and a piece of his flesh, which actually resembles a dried herring, more than
any thing else, — They also shew’d us the same
joint
of the famous
LordDarnley, it is a prodigious size —
There is no saying whether or
not they are the
bones of those
Great Men, —
but our conducteress seem’d to take such pains to assure us they were, that to
have disputed her would have been
cruel, — She then
went to a Coffin and took out of it the carcase of a woman, which she assured us
was the
Countess of
Roxburg,
who gave up the Ghost about five hundred years ago,
7 she is six feet four inches high, and has been
so well preserved as to have here teeth and nails still entire, — the flesh is
dried so hard as to be imperishable. — the woman dangled her in her arms and
seem’d to pay no respect to persons. ––––– I was glad to hasten from so
disgusting a scene, and tho’ a dead Countess cuts a curious figure, — yet how
should we like
^to suppose, some few years hence we
might be exposed as a subject of ridicule to others, — Several of the nobility
have apartments in
Holyrood House for their
winter residence, in one of
Lord Dunmores
rooms there is a remarkable
fine painting of Charles the first
and his Queen going out to ride. — it was done by
Vandyke,
8 and is
esteem’d a capital performance. In the
Duke of
Hamiltons
[21] apartments there is a room in which
Rezzio was murdered and the blood mark is yet on the floor.
There is a bed and a chair work’d by
Queen
Mary. — and also the bed in which she used to sleep. Through this
room is a small closet, where she was sitting, when she heard the shrieks of
Rezzio, — The Tap
^estry in these apartments is prodigiously fine, the battles of
Constantine the Great, which was brought by
Queen
Mary out of
France we
reckon’d extremely good,
9 — There is in one of these rooms a full length
picture of Lord Darnley, he has been remarkably tall. ––––– From
Holyrood house we return’d to our
lodgings
Mr MelissMr John Stewart
and we, sat down to dinner,
Mr Wilkie being ingaged to
Lord
Grey. — however he was kind enough to bring his daughter in the
afternoon to take leave of us, —
Mr Wilkie is a very agreeable man having been much in
the army, he has quite the Military air, ––––– We left
Edinburgh on Sunday, July the 30
th
and after a pleasant — ride of about nine miles, arrived at
Queens ferry by seven. — where we ordered tea, and
afterwards
Mr
Meliss sent for a gentleman to sup whose name was
Taylor, — he told him our intention of seeing
Hopeton House early in the morning, that
we might get over
the Firth at the time of
low water. —
Mr
Taylor said he would accompany
^us and
beg’d we would breakfast with him in the morning. ––––– accordingly we did rise
early and the gentlemen thought it would be better to send the carriage and
horses over first. — and we took a chaise to go to
Hopeton House, — it is pleasantly situated about two miles up
the
Firth of Forth of which it commands a
fine prospect. — It makes a most princely appearance, is a prodigious mass of
building, in the form of a crescent. The rooms are not large but are ornamented
with an admirable collection of paintings –––––
[22] In the first room
one enters, there is a
full length picture of
Lord Hope elder Brother to
the present Earl, who died before
his
father, he is just come from shooting and is leaning his arm on
the stump of an old tree with his gun in his hand, — it was taken when he was
going off in a consumption, and is beautifully expressive of a languid and ill
state of health, — it’s thought to be an excellent painting. and was done by
Dance. — To give a minute detail of all
those pictures, is not in my power therefore I shall but mention those which
particularly pleas’d me, — There is a
painting of St. Frances in the attitude of prayer. and
never was fervent devotion more strongly delineated in any countenance whatever,
— it is by Connoisseurs reckon’d one of the most admirable performances, and was
done by
Guido Rheni. — there is also another
done by the same great artist. It is
St. Andrew the
Apostle haul’d to the cross, submission and patient suffering of spirit
are strongly expressed in the face of
Andrew,
as is relentless cruelty in the vissage of those that conduct him. — there is
another of
the asscension of Our Saviour — . such a
glorious benignity is express’d in the countenance of Our Lord, as exceeds all
power of description — . I cannot recollect the painters name, but he certainly
has great merit ––––– Tho the painting that pleas’d us most, was
the death of Lucretia it is in that part when
Brutus snatchs up the dagger (with which she has
just executed her bloody purpose), and makes that elegant harangue which is
justly deem’d an extraordinary piece of Oratory, — She is dying and supported by
her husband whose — excess of grief the painter has been unable to describe, so
has cover’d his face with his mantle, — in her countenance death is
[23]
visibly painted without its agonies, she looks as if she was well pleas’d with
the glorious choice she had made, which was preferring Death to loss of Honour,
— In the faces of the bystanders there is a sort of admiration — mixt with an
excess of grief. — the blood is streaming from her side and stands in drops upon
the daggers point. — the figures are all as large as life: — and the whole has
an effect so astonishing that the different passions so forceably expressed in
the piece, vibrate by turns through the heart of the spectator. — it was done by
Gavin
Hamilton. — these are all that we particularly remark’d. — we
return’d charm’d with our excurtion, and breakfasted with
Mr & Mrs
Taylor. — about twelve
Mr Meliss lit a fire upon the shore
that being the signal for boats to come over, since they are all kept
^on the North side. The Ferry, it was not long in coming
and we and several other passengers got into it — I always expected to be sick
in this expedition — but however I was happily disappointed, the
Firth was very smooth it is in that part two miles
across, and we were but sixteen minutes in performing it. — Nothing could equal
the kind concerns of
Mr
Meliss with regard to us they demand our sincere
acknowledgements, and shall ever be rememberd with gratitude. — we got into the
Chair on the other side and arrived at
Kinross, the county town of the shire
about three. — about a mile to the East of this place, is a small Loch, called
Loch Leven, there is an Island about the
middle of it on which there is the ruin of a
Castle. — Where we were inform’d
Queen
Mary was once confined. — the road to this place is rough and
hilly. fifteen miles from the ferry. — here we dined and from thence proceed’d
to
Rosemount. — Tho the whole of the journey
had been most delightful, yet the pleasure I felt in seeing my friend
Mrs Meliss after an
absence of above a year occasion’d me the most heartfelt
[24]
satisfaction I could possibly experience. our pleasure was mutual and I will not
attempt to describe the delight we felt at the recollection of those days, when
our esteem and unalterable Friendship first took root, and there was not a scene
that had pass’d at that happy time but was fresh in our rememberance. —
Mrs Meliss’s
situation in life is as happy as her deserts are great. — She is blest with a
husband who knows the true value of the treasure he possesses, in him every
virtue is united, he is lively and animated has a great deal of humanity and
true feeling, without the least pretension to it. — as an affectation of fine
feelings, is of all affectations the most disgusting. ––––– his manner is easy
and genteel and his first study seems to oblige, and make every one about him
happy, —
Mrs
Meliss is no less amiable. her friendships, and her attachment to
her husband and little infant, are strong, she has a warm and disinterested
heart very susceptible of the sorrows of others, — She is form’d for domestic
happiness, has not taste for fashionable Levities, but enjoys herself most in a
small circle of dear friends, of whom her husband makes the chief, — she is
rather more reserved than
Mr
Meliss which proceeds from an extreme diffidence, which she is
not able to conquer, her understanding is excellent, and as well as her husband
she has a great taste for Literature. — This without prejudice is the Character
of the worthy inhabitants of
Rosemount. —
for whom I have the most lively friendship. — the situation of this place is
extremely beautiful. it is situated on a rising ground about a quarter of a mile
from
Perth, of which Town and excellent
bridge it commands a good prospect. — on
the other hand is a fine view up the Valley in which one sees the windings of
the
Tay. this prospect is terminated
[25] by the
Grampian Hills, ( —
whereNorval fed his flock) — .
10 — The first week we
spent intirely at home, tho we had often company. We generally breakfast’d
between nine and ten, then walk’d out, dress’d for dinner read or conversed till
three, at which hour we dined, at five if Company was expect’d adjourn’d into
the drawing room, drank tea at six, music or conversation till ten, at
^which time we sup’d, and after it for an hour or two
either Scotch reels, or singing. — The people here are extremely sociable and
friendly they frequently stay till Twelve, or one o clock in the morning. —
There is much more deference paid to the
fair sex here
than in
England by the Lords of the
creation, the reason is obvious, so much greater attention is paid to the
Education of the women that it renders the knowledge of the Two sexes upon a
greater equality, — There attention and hospitality to strangers is particularly
worthy of remark. — They seem conscious what an uncandid Idea the English have
of them and appear to have a great desire to change it. — In short tho the
Scotch may be far behind us in Agriculture commerce and all the fine arts, — yet
in Mental qualifications they seem infinitely to surpass us. — Where are the
stricter observers of the Sabbath. — Where are thefts murders, and suicides
seldomer commit’d, — Where are there soldiers or Seamen that in Time of danger,
can brave hardships like a Caledonian. ––––– Where is there an Historian like
Robertson, a Preacher like
Blair, or a Muse like
Beattie’s, — I perhaps may be prejudiced in favour of
Scotland as I know nothing so likely to endear a
place to us, as containing those we love, — On Sunday August the sixt we went to
hear a sermon it was in the Churchyard which as well as the Church was as
crowded as could possibly be. — the Clergyman stands in a kind of small wooden
house, it is large enough to hold three or four people — and as the day was cold
Mrs Meliss and
I were usher’d into it. — Notwithstanding
[...] the solemnity of the
[26] occasion I could scarce refrain from
laughing at being box’d up with the
parson, Clark, and
another man, in a place we had hardly
^room to stand in.
The Clergymans name was
Chapman, he is
esteem’d here an excellent Orator — tho I cant say his pronounciation pleased me
much. he seem’d affecting to speak good English, without having the power to do
it — The Presbiterians Pray, and preach extempore. he made a very good prayer.
which was longer than most of our Clergymens sermons, — after this he gave out
his text which was — (set your affections on things above)
11 — he preach’d fifty minutes during which time he [...] fully on the subject. — The
people all stand or sit on the cold ground. with their hats or bonnets on. that
is the men after the women, at least the lower class never wear any, but have
plaids or long blue cloaks which reach to their feet, and have large hoods which
upon occasion they put up. — at the end of the prayer and sermon they all pull
off their bonnets and bow to the Preacher, this I imajined was by way of thanks
— but
Mr Meliss
inform’d me it was by way of Obeidiance to the Supreme Being, ––––– This
happen’d to be the Fast week at
Perth^It is only once a year when they on the Sunday receive
sacrament. — they being on the Thursday to pray and preach, and continue till
Sunday in the above manner. and as soon as the Clergyman has done, another
ascends the wooden house. — so there the congregation sit or stand. going out
perhaps once a day for a little refreshment — On the Sunday when sacrament is
received in the Church the congregation all sit round a long table which is
placed in the middle aile, and the Clergyman stands on a chair exorting them. to
consider
[...] the consequences of this sacred
[27] institution during this
exortation, the Elders of the Church who are chosen by the parish as learn’d and
judicious men, go round the table and gather tokens which are given by the
Clergy of the several parishes to signify all such as are worthy to recive the
sacrament, and if they have no token they are rejected as being unfit for it, —
They are going to have the Sacrament more frequently to prevent this preaching
out of doors, as having it only once a year occasions such crowds to assemble as
to make the Churches unable to contain them, — it is said they like it to rain
when they are out, and suffer themselves to be wet to the skin, rather than move
from the place. — they like it, because they think it gives them an air of
greater devotion, — on Monday evening we had a very agreeable party most of
whom, on my
Uncles account were musical, after
the concert Reels were danced, in which
Mrs Rose an Old Lady of seventy six —
join’d. — and after supper sung us many sprightly airs, — On Tuesday we all
except
Mrs Meliss
(who could not leave her little boy) went to dine at
Mr Macalpins at
Cromley ha, — six miles from
Perth, — the road was bad but the prospects from it
delightfully pleasant, on the left of the road at the distance of half a mile is
a fine view of the ruins of
Huntingtour
Castle, —,
i
— We reach’d Cromley about two, were
introduced to Mrs and Miss
Macalpin after the first salutations were past, which in
Scotland is always a shake by the hand,
— I sat for a Quarter of an hour without speaking a painful situation for a female, — at last I was
determin’d to try some conversation with Miss
Macalpin, not beingable to endure it anylonger. — but first I will give you a little
description of that Lady, not with an intention to excite ridicule, but merely
to show what an unpromising subject I had to work upon. — Nature has not been
very lavish of her beauties either to her person or face, which is remarkably
long, large, light eyes steadfastly fixt, — a long sharp nose, and a mouth none
of the smallest, and throughout the whole of her face there is such an unmeaning
and forbiding gravity, as I never saw in any countenance before. — I spent a
second silent quarter of an hour in studying what topic to enter upon — at last
I said — “This is a charmingsituation — Ma’am, — “yes Ma’am — “Don’t you like the
country better than the Town in summer — “I really don’t know Ma’am — silence
succeed’d — “I am told you have not been here long Ma’am — “No not long Ma’am
dinner was announced and down stairs I went with a joyful
[29] heart not
more because I was hungry but because it relieved me from the most
unentertaining discourse I ever enter’d upon. — I remark’d this Lady as being
the only one
^we saw in
Scotland that want’d vivacity — or was at a loss for
conversation, — after dinner we went to see the Printing Works
Mr Macalpin has great merit, for in a year and a
half, he has beautified a place which was before perfectly a wilderness, it is
now extremely romantic. — its a narrow Valley through which runs the
river Almond on one side of it are stupendous rocks
cover’d with fine fir trees, and on — the other side
Mr Macalpin has erected a prodigious
printing Mill with various houses and sheds for the convenience of the business
he has also cut a canal which turns the mill and in which they dip the linnen
after every colour is put on.
12 — it is
astonishing how quick they print pocket handkerchiefs these they do with a
copper plate, and other things with wooden printers. — There were in one room
about a hundred girls putting in the colours with hair pencils (for they only
trace the outlines with the wooden instrument) — I told them I thought their
occupation a very pleasant one, and assured them the women in
England had
muchharder work. — they seem’d much pleas’d at my taking
notice of them — . — but made no answer except a general smile, — we return’d to
the house drank tea and set off for
Rosemount ––––– The Day following we went to breakfast with a
Mr Sandemane
at
Luncarty three miles full north of
Perth. —
Mr Sandemane is about 64 has great
Grandchildren six years old and is the most allert and lively man I ever saw,
though a great oddity he is a good deal respected in the Neighbourhood as being
the head of that society called Sandemonians, it was an
Uncle of his that was the first founder of it, and this man is
now the chief. — His only topic is matrimony, and so great a friend he is to it,
that he actually
almost hawks his Children
about and generally gets his daughters married by they are fifteen and his sons
eighteen. — after breakfast he carried us to see
[30] his
works which are for whitening all sorts of linnen.
This is reckon’d the greatest Bleachfield in
Briton, he helps many weavers employ’d in
Perth and the colour of his cloth is prefer’d to
Irish, — He accompanied us to
Stanley to
dine at
Mr Keys. —
This is a beautiful place and stands on the banks of the
Tay there is a prodigious cotton Mill erect’d at this place
which when it is intirely finish’d will employ five hundred people. There are
eight proprietors one of which is
Mr Key a very agreeable man who resides on the spot. —
they are building a large village for the convenience of the work people and
amongst the rest of the improvements a large Sunday School is erecting, which is
the first in
Scotland.
13 I
was truely sorry to find they were not more general, as the minds of the lower
class are totally ignorant and consequently superstitious, and therefore have
much want of the benefits attending that excellent institution. — This School is
to be support’d by the eight proprietors of the Mill who intend giving an a
^nnual salery to some Clergyman of good character, who is
out of preferment to preach to them every Sunday, teach them to read and
instruct them in their duty, — There is no place where there is more occasion
for a School of that sort than
Stanley. —
for it is astonishing what a quantity of Children are employ’d in the Cotton
Mill. — I could not help expressing the joy I felt in recollecting the
advantages this little group would reap from this human institution, and so
great an impression it made upon me, that I invoked the Muses aid to give it
utterance, this very trifling production so unworthy of the subject which
excited it, I am prevailed upon to transcribe and it is as follows. –––––
[31] Verses on
Stanley ValeGenius of
Scotland, wake the sacred
nineThou Wilt not ask their tuneful aid in vain.Eager they’l listen to a voice like thine,And gladly pour, the sweet, melodious strain.To
Stanley Village, strike the sounding
lyre,That
Caledonia may catch thy lays,May feel the ardour of poetic fire,Attentive hear, and echo back its praise.Sweet
Stanley, seated on the banks of the
TayWhose beauteous Stream, winds copiously alongAnd murmuring oft its circling
^eddies play Responsive to the pipe, or Milkmaids song. —Along its sides, are ranged the stately pine.Whose verdant foliage, braves the tempest drear,Whose sturdy trunks to neither side incline,But tall and straight their haughty honors rear.Here Industry that ever prosperous fair —Rears her bright standard, spreading peace around,Dispersing penury, and vain dispair,And the shrill cry of want, — heart piercing sound.The Cotton here from
India’s coast we
see,Safe wafted by a kind propitious gale.Behold the produce of that useful tree,Spread competence, and wealth through
Stanley
Vale. —
[32] Here we behold employ’d the livelong dayA youthful tribe, — who erst knew nought but want,Who spent their hours in idling time away —Without instruction, — of provision scant;And now alas, it grieves my heart to say,Without instruction, they e’en now remain,And spend the Holy Lords, appoint’d day —In wanton resting, and open shame.No longer famish’d cries the ears assail,No longer rest these images of woe,Fell Sloth is banish’d from the Peaceful Vale,Sloth first great cause from whence all evils flow —This praise industry merits, — ha! behold,What form angellic swims before my eyes,A snowy robe, her graceful limbs infold,Sure tis some heavenly regent of the skies.Her mein, her looks, bespeak her heavenly birth,In her right hand, a milk white dove she bears —Emblem of peace, and ever conscious worth,Soother of grief, and quieter of cares. —Her cloudless brow, unconscious of a frown,Her eye beam’d energy and artless truth,Around her form were thousand Graces thrownAnd her cheek ting’d with the soft blush of youth,She spoke, and speaking charm’d the listening ear,Sweet vibrated the sound through
Stanley
Vale,The
Tay stopt short, as if intent to hear
–When thus the voice soft float’d on the gale —
[33] Ye sons of
Scotland, — by supreme
command,Know that in me, t’is piety ye view —Lo, I am sent by an Almighty hand,To you, ye highly blest, and favour’d few —,What tho’ Industry here her standards bring,Tho’ Plenty, ever teems her golden horn,Yet if you know not whence these bounties spring,Still must the heart feel wretched, and forlorn —Know that from Heaven, each precious blessing flows,From Heaven, all pure and perfect gifts descend,There will the wearied pilgrim find repose —There will the wretched, find one Faithful Friend,Then teach betimes the unexperienced youth,The Power Supreme, to worship and adore. —To keep his
^holy word, — to x x x x cherish
truth.Thus said, she vanish’d quick, — nor utter’d more. —She said, and none her precepts dare dispise. —Quick throbs the impulse of each generous heart,For see, the humble Village school arise,And each commercial Brother bears a part,A good and virtuous Pastor, next they seek:To rule the youthful tribe with peaceful rod,And the revolving Sabbath of each week —Teach their young Minds the surest way to God.Blest Village, happiest far on
Scotia’s
plains,Blest Institution, form’d by judgement cool,Where pure Religion source of comfort reigns —Religion founder of The Sunday School.
[34] The day at
Stanley was much more
agreeably spent than that at
Cromley, as
Mr Key has two
sisters both of whom are chatty and good humour’d. it was rather
^late before we got to
Rosemount where we found our friend
Mrs Meliss anxiously waiting our
return. — The rest of the week was past at home where we had frequently very
agreeable parties, and spent a very jovial evening on Saturday August the
twelfth with the two
Miss Andersons — . The
Tuesday following we went to breakfast at
Mr Wright’s of
Lawtown, nine miles from
Perth.
Mrs Meliss and her little boy
accompanied us in this excurtion, which made it particularly agreeable — We
reached
Lawtown about eleven, —
Mr & Mrs Wright we had seen before at
Rosemount. They seem each upwards of forty
Mr W is a very sensible
jocase man, and
Mrs W is reckon’d remarkably
clever is Cousin to the great Scotch Poet
Dr Beattie and has a great taste for
Literature. We were introduced to
Miss
Brandling Governess to the two
Miss
Wrights, who had her education at
Miss
ProctersDoncaster. This Lady seems about three and
twenty has a countenance extremely dejected, and looks as in a bad state of
health. — The pleasure she took in conversing about
Doncaster was evident, since it enliven’d a face in which
fervors seem’d deeply implanted. — My
Uncle said he was once at
Miss Proctures when there was a young Lady whose
name he had forgot; that she was preparing for a voyage into
America where she had a sister well settld under
whose protection she was going to put herself. I have heard add’d he that she
was disappointed by the sudden death of her sister, but you doubtless may know
something more
about it,
[35] he had no sooner said this than
Miss
Brandling left the room in great disorder.
Mrs Wright (whose attention to
this young Lady deserves the highest encomiums) instantly followed her, — and in
a short time came back making an apology from
Miss
Brandling for her strange and sudden departure, “but that he had
“
touch’duponthestring on
which hung all her
sorrows”
14 — for she herself
was the unfortunate girl to whom he alluded. — The death of that sister (add’d
Mrs Wright)
blast’d all the promising expectations of
Miss
Brandling — without
friends — without fortune — a dependant station was the highest she could aspire
to. — to a girl possess’d of such a fund of
Sensibility a stroke so unexpected must have been doubly felt, and a
deep dejection of spirit which naturally impairs her health has been the result
of this disappointment, — I have a sincere affection for her continued she, as
well as
Mr Wright
and we think it our duty by showing her all the tenderness in our power to
endeavour to alleviate her sorrows. — My
Uncle
was much hurt at being the smallest instrument in bringing back so painful a
remembrance —
Miss Brandling enter’d — and we
again commenced a conversation about
Doncaster and its inhabitants which seem’d the only topic
interesting to
Miss B— and the rest of the day
was spent very x x x agreeably —.
Lawtown is
about two miles from
Dunsinane Hill where
Macbeths Castle stood. — I had express’d a
desire to see that place but the day after turn’d out so ill I gave up all
thoughts of it, however it clear’d up and after tea
Mrs Wright said she was determin’d I
should not be disappointed and if nobody would attend us she and I would go
together. however
Mrs
Meliss and we got into the Chaise
Mr Wright a
Mr Berriman and my
Uncle on horsebacks —
[36] The road to it
was terrible, not being much frequented as few people have an inclination to
climb the stupendous steep. — we found it impossible to ride up it; so each of
us secured the arm of a Beau, and with much fatigue difficulty, and length of
time, reach’d the summit, the evening was too far advanced for us to discern
objects at any great distance, otherwise we should have seen one of the finest
and most extensive prospects
Scotland
affords, — there are not the smallest remains left of the Castle above ground.
but the
Lord Privy Seal and several more
Antiquarians have dug
^of late and found several
vestiges that lead them to conclude the
Thane of
Fife by whom it was destroy’d, had levell’d it by fire, as they
have discover’d a quantity of burnt corn, and stones which have the appearance
of cinders, — there is a high bank raised round it which has been by way of
defence.
15 —
Bernam Hill is about twelve miles
off. there is now no wood upon it — having been (if we may credit
Shakespeare) all cut down by
Macduff’s forces,
16 — after staying there about a quarter of an hour, we
descended the Hill, got into the carriage, and got safe to
Lawtown, this place takes its name from a
hill which is close by
Mr Wright’s house. on
this
Macbeth used every week to dispense the
laws to a crowded assembly. — henceforth the Village just by is called
Lawtown,
17 — we related our excurtion to
Miss BrandlingMr Meliss and my
Cousin, and spent a very jovial evening, —
In the morning when breakfast was over we took leave of the worthy and agreeable
family at
Lawtown. — The parting on the side
of
Miss Brandling was truely melancholy. The
delight she had felt in talking of a place where she had cherish’d so many
flattering expectations, — a place in which she had
^known nothing but pleasure, —
[37] was superior to any
injoyment she had experienced since she has left it, she seem’d to have
conceived an attachment for us, and wept as if she had been parting with the
nearest relatives. — I never felt greater compassion for any one, and for some
time
Miss Brandlings misfortunes gain’d such
an ascendancy over my heart as to make me insensible of injoyment.
Mrs Meliss who is ever
desirous of promoting pleasure earnestly intreated her to come to
Rosemount while we staid, and
Mrs Wright kindly
seconded the motion, but she refused saying a second parting would but renew her
uneasiness. —
Mr
Meliss my
UncleCousin and myself set off for
Dundee, and
Mrs M. with her child and Maid for
Rosemount — The road from
Lawton to
Dundee is most delightfully picturesque and romantic, between
two enormous hills where we seem’d hem’d in on every side, a little further the
hills divide, and form the sweetest little Valley imajinable, through which runs
a burn that often meets with rocks and other obstructions and dashing over them
forms the most delightful cascades — in this Valley are several little huts
scatter’d about at some distance from each other. at the North side of them they
plant firs to shelter them from the Northern blast, and in the South they have
little gardens stock’d with Cabbages Pottatoes, and other vegetables for winter
use, — they are ten or twelve miles from any Town and I really think it is not
possible for nature to have lavish’d more beauties, than in the compass of this
little Arcadian Valley. ––––– We reach’d
Dundee about one, it is a pretty good Town, pleasantly situated
near the
Firth of Tay. There is a large
Manufactory of coarse Cloth at this place, there is nothing much worth
observation at
Dundee& I called upon
Miss Read for whom I had x x x x x a large packet from
York — That Lady was well and express’d
a great
[38] regard for
York and its
inhabitants, from whom she said she had receiv’d many civilities, I parted with
her about five, and arrived at
Rosemount by
eight. — On Thursday we spent a very agreeable evening at old
Mrs Roses there was a
large party, and amongst the rest, a
Dr Stewart — a very stately Beau, who
after supper when merriment prevail’d sat without deigning to smile, and look’d
as if he thought mirth extremely vulgar, — The day following there was a very
agreeable Concert and Ball at Cambells large room. —
Old
Mrs Rose danced from eight o
clock till three in the morning. — The day after we went to
Duplin, the seat of
Lord
Kinnoul, it is about 4 miles from
Perth, the pleasure grounds are very extensive and laid out
with great taste — . Nature indeed has done much for it, — furnished them with
rocks and natural cascades Gifts infinitely superior to
^all the skill of labour’d art, — The house is not large, and nothing
in it but family pictures, which are very unentertaining,
Lord Kinnoul was twice Ambassador — by which means he has had
two services of plate which together with a large quantity belonging to the
family cuts a conspicuous figure. — from this place we went to
Stillend to dine at
Captain
Stewarts —
Mrs
Stewart appears to be about forty, is still a handsome looking
woman and has a large family. —
The Captain
exactly answers the Character of the
BritishTar, — is honest, open hearted and courageous — it was
rather late before we reach’d
Rosemount The
two days following were taken up with the unpleasant occupations of taking
leave, and packing up, — And on Tuesday August the twenty second about ten o
clock, we left
RosemountMrs
Meliss myself the child and maid in a chaise and
Mr Meliss with my
Uncle in the Chair. —
Dunkeld is about fifteen miles from
[39]
Perth, the road rather rough and hilly, but
the views from it uncommonly pleasant. — we reached it about one — and went
before dinner to see
Ossians Hall — which,
is about a mile from the inn. — The road to it is by the side of the river
Rumble,
18 — which falls into the
Tay a little below — The name of this river takes its rise from
the various obstructions that impedes its course, over these obstructions it
rushs with redoubled violence and forms cascades which cause a never ceasing
Rumble. —
Ossians
Hall on the outside appears a half circular building when you
enter it it is perfectly round and opposite the door is a fine
painting of Ossian, the poet and some of the Celestial nine, — while our attention was busily occupied in observing
this picture — it suddenly vanish’d (by the help of a pulley) — and behind it we
perceived a most elegant apartment, — the surprise this occasion’d us was great.
— what with the noise of the pictures removal and the sight of this unexpected
room — on entering it the pleasure and surprise is infinitely increas’d by a
most beautiful and romantic cascade which is just below the window, the rocks
are very high and rugged and the water dashes over them with astonishing
violence. — On the Ceiling of the apartment are several mirrors, and to look up
and see the reflection of the water foaming above, has the finest effect
imaginable. —
Many think a hermitage in this situation would have been more in character than
this elegant little Temple, the sides of which are ornamented with paintings on
the plaister all well executed, and the cornish gold, — A little below the
cascade is a bridge built of rude stone, and just by it a cave hewn out of the
solid rock. This cave is a great contrast to the superb richness of Ossians Hall — it is ornament’d with shellwork,
Scotch pebbles &.c —
[40] This part of the pleasure Grounds of the
Duke of Athol, which is on the south side
of the ferry, was intirely the taste of
Lady Charlotte
Murrey, sister to the Duke — to whom when it was compleated she
made a present of it. — From thence, we return’d to dinner after which we
cross’d the ferry. The House and principal part of the pleasure grounds lay on
the north side of it. but as the day was far advanced, we had not time to see
them — and now the most painful task was come. the parting with our dear and
worthy friends
Mr
&
Mrs Meliss,
––––– Over this scene, then let me draw a veil ––––– Nor dwell upon a theme the
sadness of which could by be alleviated by the kind promise (If Heaven
permitted) of a visit from them next summer, — I will not attempt a description
of our feelings at this moment — but borrow the elegant lines of a deservedly
celebrated Poetess. –––––
For every Good and Gracious Soul
Where gentle feelings dwell,
Will better far conceive the whole
Than any Muse can tell, —19
We left them at Dunkeld, and made the best of
our way to Blair which place we reach’d by
nine. — it is twenty miles and the road remarkably
good and the prospects uncommonly beautiful, and diversified with wood, rocks,
and water. — Blair is another seat of the
Duke of Athol. the situation is not equal
to that at Dunkeld. but the pleasure grounds
more extensive. and. well laid out. some fine natural cascades
ornaments [sic] it very much The outside appearance of the house is not
very striking and it
[41] is a faithful index of the inside, as the
furniture is very plain and there are no paintings. — The family had just
breakfasted and had regaled themselves
withherrings as we saw several plates full of well pick’d
bones. — I suppose this is their Graces usual breakfast — They live very retired
and attend much to the education of their children, and have neither been at
London or
Edinburgh these three years. — sometimes they reside at
Dunkeld, but oftener at
Blair, —
— We left this place at twelve, and went eight miles back on the Dunkeld road to get to the ferry of Logyret. which we cross’d — about five miles from
Blair is the pass of Gillicranké — a streight road between two
stupendous rocks, where the Duke of Cumberland
met and fought the rebels in 1745,20 — We dined at Weimss, a wretch’d village and our accomodations were nearly
correspondent with the look of the habitations. — From this place we pursued our
rout to Kinmore the seat of the Earl of Bredalbane. — this place we reach’d in the
evening and early next morning were conducted by the Park keeper through his
Lordships Policy — .21 we
follow’d him along a broad grass walk the trees forming an Alcove, this walk is
two miles and a half in length but we went only one. — when turning on the right
we cross’d a neat Chinese bridge which is
over the river Tay. this road lead us to the
park where the house stands and in which there is a great quantity of fallow
deer. — this place we cross’d in order to ascend a mount on which is built an
elegant fortress at the top of it is a flag which is hoisted on any particular
occasion — and on the ramparts are placed eighteen small cannons. — From this
eminence there is a most delightful prospect of Loch
Tay, which is about a mile distant. also of the Church and
Newbuilt Village of Kinmore —
[42]
which stands close by the Loch. — we descended this hill and went to see the
house the middle part of it has a very antique appearance but the two wings have
been built by the
late Earl, and look very
modern. we did but see the dining and drawing rooms both of which are good. the
former is ornament’d with family pictures by
Vandyke and other eminent artists.
22 — the latter has some fine Historical
paintings chiefly from scripture —, one remarkably fine of the
meeting of Jacob and Easau, another of
St Frances and
several others. — after walking above four miles we return’d to
the inn, which as well as the rest of the Village
is intirely new. —
Kinmore is by many
travellers reckon’d the most beautiful place in
Scotland the situation is indeed
remarkably good. — but what to me gives it the highest preferance. — is the
neatness of the Village above mention’d
23 — For after having
admired the beauties of
Dunkeld,
Blair,
Duplin
&c where every effort of luxurious art is practised to assist the works of
Nature, — after having gazed upon the dazzling luster of a splendid sideboard —
your pity, your resentment is awakened when you behold these places surrounded
by miserable hovels unfit for human creatures to reside in. — mere sheds through
which the sharp Northern wind finds a thousand crevices to enter. –––––
How is one disgusted at the thought, that what is ^in one
week expended in unnecessary trifles, would give comfort to the hearts of so
many poor famish’d shivering sufferers. — To me a neat and comfortable Village
would add much more ^to the beauty of any pleasure
grounds, than a set of the most sumptuous temples dedicated to any of the
Heathen Deities. — this may x x x be said to be an unfashionable and romantic
preferance —, but let it be what
[43] it may I am determined to indulge
it. — The
present Earl is very young and but
lately return’d from his travels, — but seems to be much liked and is said to
have an amiable disposition, his policy is very extensive as is also his
property, for he can travel one hundred miles streight forward in his own estate
and yet I fancy has not more than twelve thousand a
year — . we were inform’d
the
hermitage was well worth seeing which was about four miles out
of our direct road. to this place we went and devoutly do I wish I had a pen
sufficiently descriptive to give an adequate Idea of the unequal’d beauties of
this little Elysium. However I will aim to give a faint imperfect sketch of it.
––––– Art has little hand in it and Nature reigns predominant. — It is a steep
glen in the midst of which are high and rugged rocks, over them rush large
sheets of waters, which form the most beautiful cascades imaginable. — the sides
of these rocks are cover’d with trees shrubs and wild flowers. ––––– One is lead
by a winding path to a door which conveyed us through a dark subteranuous
passage. — hewn out of an astonishing rock. — at the end of this passage is
another door, which when open’d discovers a hermitage, which one enters. it is
built of clay and moss and in the inside ornament’d with shellwork and plaister
in imitation of fruit — which is supposed to be the Hermits food. — there is a
humble couch of goats skin for him to repose on, and above it an old library of
ancient manuscripts which apparently might have been
saved in
Noah’s Ark — this
Hermitage is built in the form of a Sexagan stands
on a high rock — and exactly opposite the window at the distance of about 60
yards is a Cataract which is said to be the finest in
Briton.
24 it falls eighty yards perpendicular is an
amazing sheet
^of water — and loses itself in murmurs
among the rocky bed below —
[44] I sincerely wish every one who has a
true taste for the beauties of nature to visit the
Hermitage at
Taymouth. —
after seeing it how dull and insipid is the stiff cut avenue and gravel walk. —
We found we should be obliged to go back to
Kinmore in order to get the right road to
Killin which we did and travel’d fifteen miles
close by the side of
Loch Tay, — it is a
fine peice of water in some parts a mile and a half across, its computed to be
from fifty to one hundred fathom deep. — and what is very remarkable was never
known to freeze tho’ it can have no communication with the sea. — we arrived at
Killin about three o clock.
the Inn there is kept by a Yorkshireman and Wife
who formerly lived at —
Wetherby. My
Uncle knew them and it is natural to
suppose the pleasure they would feel at the unexpect’d sight of their Country
people The situation of
Killin tho’ an odd
house is extremely pleasant being between the two rivers
25 that feed
Loch Tay, — We left this place about five and made
the best of our way to
Tynedrum. it was
twenty miles to that place and I dare venture to say worse road was never
travell’d, — We were in constant fear of an overturn. durst not venture out of a
foots pace and were frequently obliged to alight, and walk ––––– by this means
it grew dark long before we reach’d
Tynedrum. — we kept enquiring how far to that place and which was
the road. but could gain little information as most of our informers spoke
nothing but Erse. —
[45] however we journied on terribly fatigued
without knowing when we should have rest, at length we perceived a light and
never were poor benighted travellers more rejoiced. we made up to it and found
it to be
the Inn. — I got out of the Chair
and was running in when I was met in a long dark passage by a prodigious fat
gigantic woman, with a candle in her hand and with a hoarse voice scarcely
intelligable inform’d me she could
^not possibly make
room for us, — you positively must spare us a corner said I we will put up with
any accomodations but for Gods sake admit us into the house for we are almost
starved and tired to death, —
— well replied she then follow me, — I did so, up a pair of dark stone stairs at
the top of which she open’d a door, pop’d in her head and mutter’d something I
could not understand, upon which a large party of drunken Highlanders stagger’d
out of it, we enter’d. it was a very small apartment in one corner stood a bed a
table just by it, it smelt much of Wiskie which nectar I suppose the above
mention’d Gods had been quaffing. — This room said she is bespoke by a Gentleman
in the house — but perhaps he may give it up to you. — I will ask him — as for
the Gentlemen I don’t ^know what to do with them, we
must make them a place somewhere — . I then desired her to show them up — and
make us a good fire — then gave her a brace of Moorgame, which had been politely
sent us at Kinmore by two Gentlemen who were
shooting those — and beg’d her to roast them for supper — , soon after Captain Cambell sent his Compts. and desired me to make use of his room. — which offer I readily
accepted and return’d my thanks. — We spent our evening very merrily in praising the gallantry of the Caledonian Beaux. — about twelve we parted and lucky for us we
were so tired as not to regard our uncomfortable lodgings —
[46] we left
this place early the next morning, and found the road to
Dalmally pretty good at that place we breakfasted, I had forgot
to mention a fine Loch, which we pass’d before we reach’d
Dalmally it is called
Loch
Awe, — it is of a very irregular form and has several Islands
upon it, which are well planted and many of them ornamented with old ruins. — We
left
Dalmally about one and persued our rout
to
Inverary, the road between these two
stages is very good but rather hilly, the last four miles which is through the
Duke of Argyle’s policy, is very rich and
beautiful and well contrasted with the former part of the roads which is
incompass’d with high rocks and stupendous hills cover’d with nothing but black
Ling and Broom. — We reached
Inverary about
four, order’d dinner after what which we took a long walk, up to the summit of
an amazing steep, called
Dunikaith Hill, where an Observatory is built — At the
top of this hill one looks almost perpendicularly down upon the
Castle of Inverary, the residence of the
Duke of Argyle, which cuts a grand and ancient
appearance. It is a large building nearly square flat roof’d and a large Tower
in the middle, a considerable height above the rest of the building. — The
situation is delightfully pleasant in a fine lawn and commands a most beautiful
prospect of
Loch Fyne, which having a
communication with the sea ––––– is salt water. — When we descended this hill
went to
^see the
Castle the appartments are spacious and lofty and are most
elegantly finish’d, there are some good family pictures but few from history. —
Lady Augusta Campbell the Dukes eldest
Daughter, is very handsome and
^has a great taste for
music, painting, and all the fine arts —
The
Dutchess we saw but at a distance with
Lady Darby
[47]
Madame Halliarde, a French woman of quality
and several others whose names I have forgot, after having seen all the
apartments below we were taken up stairs to a square gallery form which one
looks down into the saloon it is support’d by large pillars — from this gallery
one ascends still higher till one gets to the lead terrace which surrounds the
foot of the middle tower from whence we had a fine prospect of
the Loch, tho not an extensive one as it is
encompass’d with high rocks, we descended and return’d to the Inn, well pleased
with the days diversion, —
We left Inverary about nine the next morning
and travell’d by the side of Loch Fyne, for
about ten miles, — before a very serious calamity befel us, which was one of the
main hind springs broke, we were sadly distress’d by this accident being fifty
miles from Glasgow, which was the nearest
place we could get it mended at, — it rain’d ter^ribly
and we ^were obliged to go slow and cautiously. My
Uncle and cousin thought it would be best to tye the spring with a piece
of card — we stopt opposite a wretched looking hovel in order to do it and ask’d
for some water to steep it in. — which was brought us by a little girl, the
picture of miserable poverty she ran back again, and fetch’d me some berries in
a little tub, — Her name she said was Taby Mc.Darty, she spoke good English and
seem’d to be about nine years old. — the habitation she came out off was built
of clay and laths, and was badly thatch’d with broom, holes were left in the
side to admit light, through these holes issued all the smoke — so they serve
both for windows, and chimneys. — My Uncle
advised me to dispose of the Goosberries, by throwing them away as the hands
they came from where none of the cleanest. — this advice was needless as I
scarce durst touch them with my fingers for fear of the disorder for which the
lower class in this country, are pretty famous —26
[48] about five miles from this place we reach’d a prodigious Hill on
which is a stone with this inscription
(Rest and be thankful) from this Hill
(which is very steep) the road is lead as gradually as possible it is two long
miles to the bottom of this x x x Valley
27 we walk’d all this way, as in
the state our carriage was in, we judg’d it dangerous to remain in it. — it
luckily clear’d up, and we had no unpleasant walk, our prospect was amazing
rugged and romantic rocks on each side at least a quarter of a mile
perpendicular, down their sides rush torrents which dash’d from one rock to
another with amazing violence these were greatly augmented with the prodigious
quantity of rain which had fallen in the night. — no other prospect than this
afford’d itself for several miles —
I could not help thinking how many there are in England who would travel this stage and many others in
Scotland full of anger and vexation, and
when they got seated by their own fire sides would most bitterly abuse the
barren and unfruitful soil of this Kingdom — How impotent and ^irreligious is such conduct: to find fault with Nature is surely to
arraign the Wisdom of God; is this then a proper return to him who cloaths our
feilds with verdure. — and gives us every luxury we enjoy. — Is it a proper
return to blaspheme his works. because they do not smile with riches like our
own? ––––– These scenes methinks should have a tendancy quite different They
should impress us with a lively gratitude for the inestimable blessings so
lavishly bestow’d upon us. — and by seeing how much
they overballance those in Scotland, create
in us an ardent desire of deserving them. for as we have much more give, — so
have we much more reason to be thankful.28
[49] a little onward another prospect open’d to us. which was
Loch Long. it is a fine sheet of water, of an
irregular form but not very broad. — we cross’d a bridge which is over the river
that feeds it,
29 which joins the
Firth
of Clyde by which means it is salt water, — about four miles
farther is
Tarbet Inn, which we reach’d by
four o clock. the look of this house did not promise us much comfort, however we
order’d dinner and Good stomach (according to the old proverb) being the best
sauce. — we found no fault with our provisions, which (by the by) were not
capital, This Inn stands close by
Loch
Lomond a Lake which all agree is not
^to
be equal’d by any in
Briton. — and exactly
opposite on the other side the Loch is that most astonishing and stupendous hill
called
Ben Lomond. of which every traveller
that visits this part of the
Highlands takes
particular notice, and many mount
his summit. which
commands a very extensive prospect, but that entirely depends upon the day for I
was inform’d by a gentleman who had been there that when the atmosphere was
clear one may easily discover the
Irish
Coast. — whereas the day we were at
Tarbet the clouds hung so low we could not discern the top of
Ben. — it is three miles from the base
to the summit and one mile perpendicular — The road in many parts is totally
impassible on foot, so those who have curiosity to ascend this steep are obliged
to hire little Shelties or Galloways which are kept here for that purpose, and
are well acquainted with the way ––––– But there were some lines on a pane of
Glass in the Inn which I really think worth transcribing. tho’ few scratchs on
tavern windows deserve a look. — however should any of my friends visit
Ben Lomond, they may be mindful of the
advice given by —
S
Russel.30 —
[50]
Verses on Ben Lomond written on a
Window —
Strangers, if this pane of glass perchance,
Thy roving eyes should cast a casual glance;
If taste for grandeur ,and the dread sublime,
Prompt thee, Ben Lomonds fearful
height to climb;
Here stop attentive, nor with scorn refuse,
The humble rhimings of a tavern Muse: —
For thee the Muse, this rude instruction plan’d,
Prompt’d for thee, her poets humble hand.
— Trust not at first a quick adventurous pace,
Six miles its top points gradual form the base. —
Up the high rise, with panting haste I past,
And gain’d the long laborious steep at last.
More provident thou, — when once you pass the deep,
With cautious steps, and slow, ascend the steep. —
Oh, stop awhile oft taste the cordial drop,
And rest, oh rest, long, long upon the top,
There hail the breezes, nor with toilsome haste,
Down the rough slope thy useful vigour waste:
So shall thy wondering sight at once survey,
Woods, lakes, and mountains, vallies rocks, and sea. —
Huge hills, that heaped in crowded order stand,
Stretch’d o’er the Western, and the Northern land,
Enormous groupes; while Ben who often shrouds,
His lofty summit in a veil of clouds,
High o’er the rest, exulting in his state,
In proud pre-eminence sublimely Great: —
One side all awful to the astonish’d eye —
Presents a rise three hundred fathoms high:
Which swells tremendous on th’ astonish’d sense,
With all the pomp of dread magnificence,
All this and more thou shalt with wonder see,
And own a faithful Monitor in me. S Russel
–––––
I think Mr. Russel
gives very wholsome advice, we left this place about five the afternoon was
pleasant and ^the road to Luss all the way by the side of Loch
Lomond. this Loch is twenty four miles long, and in many parts
six and seven broad, it has twenty eight Islands upon it, none of which are very
small, and all ornamented with wood which adds much to this enchanting prospect.
we reach’d Luss by eight, at which place our
accomodations were very comfortable — after eating a hearty supper we retired to
bed, and left Luss at eight on Sunday
morning August the 27th. it rain’d heavily therefore
we could not enjoy the pleasant prospects between Luss and Dumbarton as the
road was still by the Loch. — we reach’d the last mention’d place about eleven,
where we order’d breakfast — There is the remains of a Castle at Dumbarton which most travellers passing through go to
see, but it rain’d so hard the whole time we were there — we were obliged to be
content without seeing it. — This place though the county Town, is but small and
trifling we left ^it about two, and had a very pleasant
ride to Glasgow — the Country here wears a
different aspect to that we had pass’d through a day or two before, — here the
surrounding lands are well cultivated, and many Gentlemens seats are scatter’d
about. —
[52] These are the summer residences of some of the best
families in
Glasgow their situations are
well chosen most of them commanding either a view of
Loch Lomond or of the
Clyde
— which is the river that comes to
Glasgow
and is one of the three that is navigable, it is rather remarkable so many
rivers as are in
Scotland there are but
three, the
Clyde to
Glasgow, the
Forth to
Stirling, and the
Tay to
Perth. —
about two miles before we reach’d
Glasgow is
an
Obelisk near the road side but tho’ it
did not appear ancient, the inscription was effaced; however we enquired and
found it was erected to the memory of
Smollet
the historian, and were also shewn
the house he was born
in, which was just by and cuts a mean appearance. —
— We arrived at Glasgow about five o’clock,
and were recommended to the Saracens Head
Gallowgate, which was quite the South end of the Town, we were
all much struck with the beauty and regularity of the buildings, and the
spacious and well paved streets. — after tea we sent Mr Wauds letter to Dr Williamson one of the
Professors inclos’d in a note from my Uncle
desiring to know what time we should wait on the Dr, to see the College, he sent his Compts and would wait on us that evening, accordingly he came about eight
o’clock supp’d with us and staid till twelve; he is a very agreeable man full of
entertainment and instruction, is very lively and seems to be about sixty five.
— My Uncle was much pleased with him and we
agreed we had seldom spent pleasanter hours, for tho’ a great Phylosopher, he is
perfectly easy, and quite the gentleman, is much caress’d by the Dukes of Athol, Argyle, and Hamilton, as a man
of great understanding, and sound judgement, he was perfectly
[53]
acquainted with the late
Doctor Johnson, who
he acknowledges to have had a great genius, but agrees with every body else in
saying he had the most unpleasant manner and disposition in the world. — he
added, one part of
Johnsons character
surprized him much as he had always thought it incompatible with sound
judgement, which was his amazing bigotism, he said he once ask’d him the
Principle of the established Church of
Scotland, and when he told him it differ’d
only in form to that of the English, he exclaim’d enough, enough, your
fate is inevitable, as is all those who in the smallest degree deviate from the
only true religion. I need not tell you what will be your portion, ––––– He told
us a circumstance of
the Dr breakfasting with one of the Professors, and according to
the custom of this country preserved sweetmeats were produced, the
Doctor who was very near sighted ask’d what they
were, and being inform’d Marmalade to spread upon his bread, and butter, he put
his hand into the glass and brought it out
^full of
sweetmeats, spread it with his fingers upon the bread, and noding significantly
said (
this will do)
31 —
This
Dr Williamson
alledged he saw, and told us many more stories similar to these about
Johnson — he ask’d us to breakfast with him the next
morning which we did, and were by him introduced to
Mrs Williamson, She does not seem
above thirty, great inequality in age is in general disgusting, but when one
recollects how agreeable
the Doctor is, one
ceases to wonder at it. — They both accompanied us to see
the College — we were first shewn the apparatus for
Electricity; Astronomy; the art of preserving in specific several valuable
Fosils a magnet the power of which is equal
[54] to 151 lb — these
apparatus’s are carried into the lecturers hall, and explain’d by the professors
of the several class’s to the students; — From thence we were taken into a place
in which are aranged several peices of roman architecture which have been found
by digging the canal near this place, there are many Altars, the inscriptions
still very legible one of
^the most superb has been
dedicated to Jupiter Olympus, there is a place at the top
on which the libation has been put, also several pieces of Roman wall, pavements
&c. which have the appearance of great antiquity, — from this place we went
to the library which is large and well furnish’d, and has a gallery intirely
round it. They have a book which was sent by the
King of
Naples to this college, which is full of extraordinary fine
copper plates which were copied from the admirable collection of paintings found
in the
Herculanium,
32 they are not historical, nor very interesting,
but the plates uncommonly fine. —
— Another much more entertaining book was made a present of to this college by Sir William Hamilton, it is full of drawings taken
by himself in Sicily, cheifly views of
Etna, and Vesuvius, most incomparably finish’d by that gentleman the
burning Lava streaming down the sides is well express’d and fills one with
horror and consternation, there is an explanation to every drawing, the
colouring is delicate and the subjects noble and striking: from this place we
went to the large Hall where on any particular occasion such as chusing
Professors &c. all the College assembles and entertainments are given. — In
this place are some
[55] paintings, the best of which is (according to
my humble opinion)
the Athenian School,
Plato, and
Aristotle, are nearly in the center, the former in the attitude
of speaking, the figures and countenances are good and expressive. —
Pythogarus is writing. —
Diogenes in a posture of study — and the rest teaching their
different sciences. the countenances of the young students indicate extreme
attention. — after seeing this place
Dr Williamson very politely conducted
us into a small apartment at the end of it, where we sat down, and regaled
ourselves with cake, wine, and almonds and raisins. — We then went to the
High Church or Cathe[...]deral which is the only one remaining in
Scotland, and is indeed very ancient. the structure
is Gothic, but there are no monuments worth observation — fronting the reading
desk is an elegant pew in which
Oliver
Cromwell once sat to hear Divine service. What is very remarkable
the place under the Church which was intended for Vaults is converted into a
place of worship where there is divine service every Sunday, it must be supposed
it is dimly lighted and has a very dismal appearance. it is surely calculated to
inforce gloomy ideas of religion, — there still remain several burial places,
and if the deceased happen to die young the friends have a horrid custom of
painting the walls ajoining the tomb black, with white spots, and observe the
same only reverse it when they depart this life pretty far advanced in years. —
these we were inform’d were to represent tears. — but — really every tear
resembles both in size and shape a good large
Gargonel
Pear. and had it not been for
[56]
Dr Williamson who
is a man of exquisite information we could not possibly have found out there
meaning. — From
the Cathedral we went to the
Tontine Inn, in which is the assembly
room, it is neat, but small, there are also several other comodius apartments
and below them a spacious and elegant Coffee room, — at the entrance of this
room is a lofty dome supported by pillars, at the top of this
Dome is a Skylight, the other end of the room is made
circular by a large bow window, — and there two lights seem fully sufficient. —
from thence we went to the
new Church it is
neatly fitted up, and lofted on three sides the pews about are all mahogany, and
those below a good imitation of it the aisles are all carpeted, and except the
Duke of Northumberlands chaple at
Alnwick Castle, it is the most elegant
place of worship we had seen — From thence we return’d to the Inn and dined,
after which the
Doctor conducted us to
the Green, round which there is a gravel
walk by the side of the
river Clyde, which
is extremely pleasant, — we then went back to tea and retir’d to bed pretty well
fatigued, — rose early in the morning and after breakfast set out for
Paisley which is seven miles west of
Glasgow, — This is a large well built town and
famous for the gauze manufactory which is brought to great perfection. — they
also manufactor muslon and ribbands, and no town is in a more flourishing state
— I Copied an account which was taken in the year 1781 of the population of this
place it was as follows:
[57]
- Number of Families in Paisley
————————— 3723 —
- Persons five to each Family —————————— 18615 —
- There were Weavers Looms —————————— 3800 —
- — And thread Mills ——————————————— 132—
- Fronting Houses ——————————————— 1441 —
- Houses Built in — 1777 ————————————— 83 —
- ---------------- in — 1778 ————————————— 45 —
- ---------------- in — 1779 ————————————— 43 —
- ---------------- in — 1780 ————————————— 64 —
- ---------------- in — 1781 ————————————— 103 —
33
They are now much employ’d in building and consequently the population much
increas’d since this account was taken Paisley is reckoned the fourth town in Scotland 1777 — EdinburghGlasgow, and Aberdeen only excelling it. — we spent the day there very
agreeably in seeing the curious process of weaving gauze &c, — and return’d
in the evening by Renfrew which is the
County Town of the Shire; is but a very trifling place — Doctor Williamson came and spent the evening with us, and after
a short time took his leave. — We left Glasgow the morning after about eight o’clock, Dr Williamson informed
us of Bothwell Castle which was the ancient
seat of the Douglas Family but is now in ruins, it is not far from the road
side, at the distance of about nine miles from Glasgow, — the situation of it is beautiful on the banks of the
river Clyde, when intire, it seems to
have been ^a prodigeous mass of building, and has the
appearance of amazing strength, it is built on a rock and has been strongly
fortified by a surrounding rampart;
[58] near this ruin is a neat
modern built house in which
Mr Douglas resides, from
this house the pleasure grounds extend to the
old
Castle and down to the
Clyde, they are laid out with exquisite taste, and for the size of
it, this was one of the prettiest places we saw. — This is part of the estate,
the property of which was so long contested by the Families of Douglas, and
Hamilton and decided in favour of the former (who now enjoys it) by the house of
Lords, in the year 1767,
34 —
Dr Williamson
who is a man of universal knowledge was well acquainted with all the parties, —
with the
Dutchess of Douglas he was
particularly intimate, and also with the
late Duke of
Queensberry who was very strenuous for the Douglas side, tho’ a
relation of the Hamilton’s. — he told us of a conversation he had with that
nobleman (after the matter was decided), who told him he was fully convinced of
Douglas being the rightful heir, not
(added he) “from all
“the publick proofs that have been
^given for there perjury may
“have been pra
^ctised, but in my youth, I had a strong
“attachment to
Lady Jane Douglas, and would most —
“willingly
have married her. — I know her to have been a
“woman of exemplary honour,
and integrity, she declared
“on her death bed she was the mother of those
young men,
“this to me is the strongest of all proofs. for
Lady Jane
“Douglas would never have launch’d
into Eternity with a
“Falshood in her mouth. — This Nobleman also told
Dr Williamson
a circumstance greatly to the credit of the
present Duke
of Hamilton, which was soon after the
[59] cause was
decided,
young Douglas was with the
Duke of Queensberry at
St James where they were met by the
Duke of Hamilton, who went up to
Mr Douglas, took him by
the hand and said, — “
Douglas its long since
we met, but now I’m happy to call
“you Cousin”. — This circumstance
reflects great honour on the
Duke of Hamilton,
who must be possess’d of a soul above disappointment, and revenge, and must give
every one a high opinion of the rectitude of his hear, and benevolence of his
disposition, —
The Dr gave us an odd account of the
Dutchess of Douglas. — She was a woman of astonishing strong
parts, — had a high Idea of honour, — and bore an unblemish’d character — but
had none of those gentle, and insinuating graces, those mild and placid virtues,
which ought to be the characteristic of the sex, — She was strong in her
resentments, and had it not been for her unshaken fortitude, and enterprizing
spirit,
Douglas would never have possess’d the
estate. — She lived to see him united to the
Duke of
Montrose’s daughter they were some years without having any
family which gave the
Dutchess great
uneasiness, as she fear’d in spite of all her exertions, the Hamiltons would
prove victorious, however in time she was made happy by seeing an heir to the
Family of Douglas. —
— From Bothwell Castle we made the best of
our way to — Hamilton, which place we
reach’d by ten o’clock, there we breakfasted, it is a small neat built town. —
we express’d a desire to see the Dukes
house, upon which the waiter inform’d us, it was necessary to ask
the Dutchess’s permission. My Uncle
[60] accordingly sat down and wrote to her Grace for that purpose. and
soon after her assent came. — we proceeded to the house and the porter refused
us admittance till we assured him we had leave, a servant conducted us into the
gallery where all the most valuable pictures are put, it is an elegant
apartment, on entering it we perceived a Gentleman sat writing, he immediately
rose and approached us, — by this time our attentions were engaged with a
beautiful painting which hung at the bottom of the room, — This the gentleman
informed us was the parting of —
Hector and Andromache, it
was done by
Gavin
Hamilton and was a passage chosen by
the
Duke. — When
Hector is casting
his last glance on his wife and infant the former is leaning in an elegant
attitude on his shoulder, while the Nurse is upon her knees at his feet holding
the Child: — In the back ground stands a magnificent
Carr, in which are two white coursers, around stand the Matrons
with their infants in their arms, and with some grey headed old Men raise their
hands and eyes to Heaven, imploring the protection of the Gods for the great
chief of
Troy, in whose countenance and
figure, are blended glory, pity, anguish, and affection; — The manly figures of
two young Warriors leaning on their spears is highly beautiful, their rough
visages seem to have lost all the fierc
^eness of war and
their bosoms to: melt with compassion at the sad scene before them. The figures
are all as large as life
[61] and exquisitely expressive, — we were much
pleased with it, as also with a
portrait of the Old Earl of
Denbigh, and a negro boy, the former with a gun in his hand, this was
done by
Vandyke — over the fireplace is that
inestimable and much esteem’d
picture of Daniel in the Lyonsden. I am utterly unable to give the least
conception of this incomparable peformance, — but cannot pass over it without
making a faint attempt, —
Daniel is
represented sitting amidst a group of Lyons with his hands and eyes uplifted in
a posture of most ernest prayer, — in his countenance horror is strongly
delineated but it is softened by resignation, and a humble hope in the goodness
of the Supreme Being, — The animals are incomparably done, one fast asleep with
his head upon the foot of
Daniel another close
by him howling for hunger; and several more in different attitudes all looking
horridly savage and ter
^rific, yet none seeming to have
any intention to molest the Holy Prophet. at the bottom of the picture are
several bones and a scull — the gentleman who still attended us desired us to
observe how well they
were picked, — and told us this
inimitable peice was done by
Reubans, — at the
bottom of the room is a
painting of a treaty of peace
made in
Queen Elizabeths time, between the
English and Spanish this is held in great veneration as the gentleman informed
us which amongst them was the Famous
Cecil,
they seem all in deep debate. but his countenance was particularly cunning and
crafty, ––––– On each side of this are scripture pieces one
Our
Saviour
[62] being taken from the cross, and the other
his interment, the countenances here are finely expressed,
and they were done by that inimitable artist
Raphael, these were the only historical paintings in the gallery
the rest were all portraits well finished by
Vandyke — As much as we were pleased with the admirable
collection of paintings we were not less so with our informer, — he seemed about
fifty, a good size inclining to corpulency and a countenance penetrating and
expressive, his manner uncommonly graceful, and elegant, accompanied with a
frankness the most pleasing, — to have left his occupation and give himself so
much trouble merely for the entertainment of perfect strangers was doubtless a
great instance of affability, — out of the gallery we went into the billiard
room, — facing the door is the
portrait of three gentlemen in a
group, one of which Our guide informed us was the present
Duke of Hamilton, and that (said he) pointing to a
figure on his Graces right hand) was taken for me, and that on the left for a
son of mine, it was done by
Hamilton at
Rome, we happened to be standing one
evening in that very place when he approached us and said he had been trying to
group us, and would take us in the attitudes we were then in, The place in which
we stood was formerly the
Grand Forum at
Rome, but is now converted into a low
market, and we were returning from contemplating the ruins of that ancient
^City which you see
[63] there (added he) in the
back ground — He had no sooner
said that wastaken for me — than it instantly struck me it might
probably be that charming and most entertaining author
Dr Moor, well known to have been
the
Duke of Hamiltons Tutor and companion of
his travels, the same, the same Idea struck my
Uncle and I took the first opportunity of asking the servant who
attended us, and he informed me it was him. —
I was scarce able to contain the delight I felt in being with a man whose works I
had so much admired, I communicated it to my Uncle, who I wished to partake of my pleasure, to have a proper
idea of this man, it is only necessary to read his works, as they are an exact
type of himself Easy entertaining, interesting, and eligant, — but I must
withold my rapsody, and go on with an account of the paintings, — In the
billiard room there is an excellent head of Rezzio35 the
unfortunate favorite, of a more unfortunate
Queen, — a violin in his hand, his eyes lively and peircing and
his countenance keen, and expressive, — In this room are some portraits and
excellent Landscapes — and a small painting which, I think was done by Guido — It was Our Saviour taken
from the cross, and two angels standing over him, the Vissage of one of
those Beings is perfectly divine, it exceeds any thing earthy, and is totally
undescribable. — through this we were shewn a bed room and dressing room which
are ornamented chiefly with landscapes, from thence we returned again through
the gallery and went through another range of rooms, in one of which, was a fine
old head of St. Catherine
[64] Bless me said
Dr
Moore, I’ve seen many a
St Catherine, but they were all smart
young Ladies, this seems very ancient — Here is also a
portrait
of Knox the Great Reformer and the
Holy family in a
group, which I think was done by
Guido, an artist famous for expression of countenance, — There
were many others the subjects of which I have forgot I was so attentive to our
charming conductor, — he told us the
Duke was
in
Ireland and
^theDutchess not being well he came down about a
fortnight ago to keep her company in the
Dukes
absence, — Ay! thought I, I envy her, her companion, more than any thing she
possess,
— He staid sometime, conversing about our journey and all the beauties of
Scotland, wished us much to see the
Dukes pleasure grounds,36 and after sometime took his leave —, we returned to the
Inn and soon after set forward on our journey. — it rained and blew excessive
hard, and our situation was te^rible the road laying
across a bleak heath without a single tree to shelter us, and we really thought
it dangerous to remain in the carriage, — One circumstance made it particularly
similar to the Tempest on Cowdingham Moor
July the 28th, the day before, had been past with
Miss Grey, and now we had just left
Dr Moor, and
to have our pleasentest hours twice succeeded by tempests was very remarkable —
However at five we arrived at Douglas Mill,
where we met with comfortable accommodations, and took up our residence for the
night — which was a very tempestuous one
[65] we rose early in the
morning but if offered us no better a prospect that the preceeding day, being
still extremely windy and likely for rain, and as we were preparing to set off
(being obliged to encounter it) — the Landlord came with the Comp
ts of two Gentlemen who were going to the next stage, and offered me a
place in their post Chaise, to this proposition we readily assented, and I got
into the carriage with the two
Beaux. Conversation
soon turned to literary subjects, in which they both, especially the younger
seemed well versed, repeated many striking passages from
Shakespeare as well as from other Great authors, spoke french
fluently, and seemed to have a knowledge of the dead languages, it rained te
^rribly the whole way to
Elvenfoot which is fifteen miles from
Douglas Mill, here we breakfasted and parted with our agreeable
fellow travellers whose names we did not learn, — from thence we persued our
rout to
Moffat which place we reached by two
it is a neat small market town, and excellent accommodations at the Inn we
dined, and left it about four, we had a pleasant ride of sixteen miles, fine
road to
Lockerby through the
Vale of Annan we arrived at the last mentioned
place by seven were we staid all night. — On Friday morning September the first
— we rose at 9 breakfasted and left
Lockerby
about eleven, the road was very good and about a quarter of a mile on the right
hand of it at the distance of sixteen miles from
Lockerby, stands that celebrated Village called
Gretna Green. — we understood it was in the direct
road to
Carlisle and intended dining at it,
but passed it half a mile — however when we found out our mistake we returned,
not willing to pass so near a spot so famous, without seeing it — accordingly
[...]
[66] we asked for the best Inn, and were shewn a small thatched Cottage
built of mud, at the end of which hung out the Kings arms, here we alighted and
were shewn into a neat little apartment where we ordered diner, — I asked where
people were married the girl looked significantly at me and pointed to a little
thatched alehouse of still meaner appearance than that we were in. “Do you want
to go there Ma’am said she because if you do, we must send for the Minister, he
lives about a quarter of a mile off, — I assured her I had no desire to see that
Gentleman, but expressed my surprize why they were not married in the Kirk, as
there is a very neat one in the Village — She said She knew no reason, but
Mr Paisley
(the Minister) did not chuse it. — I asked her if we could see the room in which
the ceremony is performed, and she immediately desired us to follow her, we did
so, and were conducted to the little alehouse above mentioned, and turning to
the right she opened the door of
HymensTemple, which we entered — it is a room of about four
yards in bre
^adth and five in length, very low, a coarse
flag floor, and white walls, the furniture consisted of three white wood chairs,
an old oak table, a corner cupboard, and two press
beds. — The people told us a week never passed without a wedding and
some times two of a day, — and the ceremony is two hours in performing
— We left Gretna Green about four and it
rained very fast most of the way to Carlisle, in this stage we bade farewell to Scotland which is divided from England by a small river which we crossed at Longtown, ten miles from Carlisle — which place we reached about seven and took up our
residence at the Kings arms, where we met
with excellent beds and good accommodations, we rose about eight o’clock and
after breakfast went to see the printing works
[67] which are very
extensive at
Carlisle but as I before took
notice of them at
Cromley, these being
exactly the same, I shall pass over them in silence — From thence we went to the
Cathedral, it appears to
^be an old strong building but there are no monuments
worth looking at and it happening to be Service time we could not be admitted
^but into the prayerhouse, — From this place we went
to the
Castle where — the fortieth regiment
^of foot were garrisoned, they happened to be
exercising and
^we were much pleased with the harmony of
their music, — we had leave from the Officers to ascend the ramparts where
several large cannon are placed, from thence we had a charming and extensive
prospect and took a farewell glance of
Scotland; a place we had every reason to like, not only from
its beauties which are very numerous, but from the extreme kindness and
hospitality we met with from its inhabitants, — We were informed there was
nothing within the
Castle worth observation
and therefore did not enter it. but were told by the people of
the Inn there was a clock which was very curious.
accordingly we went and found it so. — It shewed us the Revolution of the
heavens, and motion of the globe, and upon the whole was a capital peice of
mechanism, — We were also informed there was a
blind
Man just by who had an organ and played upon it himself, and that
he had been born blind, — this intelligence it was difficult to credit, however
we were determined to be satisfied and followed our conducter down a straight
lane, then ascended a pair of high stone stairs, at the top of which at the
right hand he opened a door, and telling our errand a woman desired us to enter,
which we did, and this astonishing man approached us he seemed about sixty and
rose from a table where he
[68] three women and two men were at dinner —
it was a mean apartment, — in one corner stood a bed — a fire where dinner had
been cooked close by it, — and at the bottom of the room was the organ the Old
man drew near us and taking from the wall a small frame in which was
JosephLenton wove on a piece of Cloth — you will doubtless
think it remarkable said he, when I tell you this was my weaving, it is true, I
was not born blind as some say, by lost my sight of the small pox when I was
between three and four years old, you will ask how I knew the form of letters,
why my mother with her finger end used to trace them on my hand and by this
means I know the exact shape of every letter, — I have also made this organ both
the bellows keys and wood part of it, and I play upon it — and blow the bellows
with my foot, — He immediately began played Martino’s minuet the Birks of
Invermay — and many sprightly airs. –––––
— Now said he I will give you one of my own composition it is an imitation of a
Voluntary when the Judges come into the Church — he did play it — and most
delightful it was — he touch’d the instrument with great taste and expression. —
When he had done pray said my Uncle what first
gave you an idea of making an organ. — he began a long na^rrative which was exactly as below, or as near as I can remember.
—
You must know Sir when I was about twelve years old I went to the Cathedral were I was so struck with the music of
the organ that it quite overpower’d me — I fainted away and was carried out —
when I came to myself I enquired very earnestly
[69] what the organ was
like — My friends who were poor illiterate people could inform me very little
about it. they said there was a bellows and some pipes and that they played on
keys. — I could then have played a little on the bagpipe I made a bellows and
got some childrens trumpets, and blew into the bellows this I found would not
answer, as I could not get it to make different sounds. — I was much distressed
that this attempt failed, and my friends afraid such application and study would
impair my understanding — insisted upon me giving up the scheme, this (added the
Old man) duly obliged me to promise, but
strong inclination forbade me to perform — there was a small dark place at the
top of the house there I got my work tools unknown to every body. I was then
about seventeen and had made some bagpipes and other little things, but
^my mind was still set upon an organ, — and I was
determined to make a second attempt, I had made some enquiries about it, — and
set to work to make the air Chest, bellows, –— pipes, — and keys, — which I
compleated, the only thing that now remained was to pitch it, — sometimes I
thought to go to the Organist and ask a little of his assistance — then again I
considered perhaps he will think it impertinent in a poor blind boy. — as I was
one day busied with these reflections, I went to the
Cathedral which I then constantly attended, I had one of my
pipes in my pocket and was ringing the bells after service was over, — when one
of the Vergers told the Sexton he had left the organ pew door open,— he replied
it was no matter nobody would go there — Now though I is the luck
^ey moment if I have courage to embrace it, — Immediately
went and hid myself, and sometime after they went out and locked the door. — I
then groped my way up to the organ loft and after filling the organ chest with
air, took my pipe out of my pocket, and counted the notes 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10
from the top, till it exactly came to the sounds of my pipe from thence I knew
where to place this pipe and makes as many above and below as I liked.
[70] — I
stayed in the Church all night practising in the above manner — I knew nothing
then of the name of notes — my ear was my only instructor — in the morning
various were the conjectures made upon finding me in the church, — some said he
smiling thought it was the Old Organist risen again. — I told them what I had
been about as I was no longer desirous of keeping it a secret. — it soon reached
the ears of the Bishop and Dean, who sent for me and ordered I should have free
access to the organ, whenever I wished it, from this indulgence I soon
compleated my instrument and got
^to know the names of
notes. This is not the Organ you now see, it was sent into the
Isle of Man. this I have made since. I will play
you another song added he and immediately began of singing and playing. (Says
Plato why
shouldman be Vain — when he had finished, this said he is my
favorite song. for a great deal of morality is united to fine music, it shows
most plainly the vanity of this world, — Our venerable friend delivered this
narration with an ease, and frankness that astonished and delighted us, — and
one could not help regarding him as one whom Providence had bountifully
compensated for the loss of eyesight — Nothing could be more affecting than to
hear him sing that song. — it brought along with it a crowd of reflections. —
Who indeed has occasion to be vain when they can see here an instance of a man
destitute of every comfort that can arise from competence & dependant solely
on the bounty of others, yet see that man by the peculiar grace of Providence
endowed with a disposition of mind and soundness of understanding not often to
be equalled. —
My Uncle asked him if he knew
Mr Stanley the
^late organist of
the
Temple
[71] who was very great tho like him deprived of eyesight. — He said he
went up to
London soon after he had made the
organ and was introduced to
Mr Stanley who he had the honour of playing too, that he
was at his house and he was very kind to him. — He is dead lately said
my Uncle — so I hear said the old Man and am sorry
for it, ay Sir I labour under great disadvantages, if in the earlier part of my
life I had, had a good education I might have done better. — I told him the
merit was considerably greater on that account — because had that been the case
much more would be expected and now
^we were all
astonishment. — The old man (smiled and) said, you are very good Ma’am, and very
true,
My Uncle then gave him a small trifle,
for which he was very thankful but we assured him the obligation was greatly on
our sides — we then returned to the inn. dined and set off for
Penrith. which is eighteen miles from
Carlisle and the road not very good. but the
prospects
^finely diversified, on one side a black heath
and on the other a woody, cultivated, Valley, — Our old Friend whom we had just
left furnished us with conversation, till about seven o’clock we reached
Penrith, — Our hostess informed us her
house was so full of company she feared we should not like our accommodations,
which she assured us were the best that were unoccupied, for there was
Lord Lonsdale and all the Gentlemen of distinction
in the County assembled above stairs, and had been signing a congratulatory
address to
his Majesty (which she added with a
smile) was just
then quite the fashion — she spoke this with a tone of voice and sweetness of
countenance that we could have put up with any inconvenience rather than have
distressed her. We ordered tea and before it was
[72] over a great mob
assembled before the window where they lit a prodigious bonfire and fired guns
and crackers inumerable.
Lord Lonsdale and
^the gentlemen ordered the populace thirteen barrels
of ale, and the whole night, was one continued scene of drunkenness, riot, and
confusion. — We breakfasted at
Penrith in
the morning and about ten o’clock set off for
Appleby. the road on this stage is good, and the prospects
delightful, it is fourteen miles and we arrived at
Mr Wilkinsons about twelve, and were
happy to find
Miss W— well. she is a girl I
esteem exceedingly from the goodness of her heart and sweetness of
^her disposition —
Appleby is a most charmingly situated [
sic] it is but
small tho’ the County town of
Westmorland,
the country about it is very rich and cultivated, and the prospects are
terminated with Hills resembling those in the
Highlands. — at this place there is a
Castle which belongs to the
earl of
Thanet, it is finely situated upon a rising ground and overlooks
the Town; the eminence on which it stands, is finely or
^namented with trees, and the
river
Eden runs just below. It is inhabited by his Lordships Steward
and family, the rooms are large wainscoted and boarded with oak, — there are
some paintings but all wretchedly bad. the only entertainment in the
Castle, is the figure of a man armed
capà pee, it is kept very clean and is iron inlaid with
gold. — near the
Castle there is an old
square building very high with a turret on each corner, it has the appearance of
great strength. no tradition is to be found concerning it but from the iron bars
which remain it is supposed to have been a place of confinement. — We staid at
Appleby till
[73] Wednesday
morning when we left them notwithstanding their pressing invitations for a
longer visit, we returned to
Penrith and
about four miles from the last mentioned place on the high road stands a
pillar on which is a dial, it was
erected 130 years ago by
Lady Ann Pembroke,
she parted with her daughter (who was going to live in
Wales) upon this spot, and she ordered a donation of four
pounds to be given a
^nnually to the poor of the
parish of Broom (where it stands —)
37 every second day of April, the same
Charitable Lady also endowed an Hospital at
Appleby and left land sufficient to allow twelve poor Widows
two comfortables [
sic]
^apartments each and ten pounds
peranum — there is an elegant monument erected to her
memory in
Appleby Church — we dined at
Penrith and left it about three, the
road to
Keswick is beautifully picturesque
and about a mile from that place one of the most beautiful landscapes that can
be conceived presents itself, it is a most fertile Valley through which runs the
river Derwent, also
Keswick, and a part of the lake which is esteemed
the finest in
England — this Valley is
encompassed by an astonishing Hill called
Skiddaw and other Mountains of stupendous height — We arrived
at
Keswick by seven at which place we met
with comfortable accomodations — When we arose, we wer te
^rribly disappointed by a dreadful rainy morning, as we intended had
it been fine to have gone upon the lake, and ascend’d the summit of
Skiddaw — these hopes however were frusterated —
after breakfast we walked to see a
Museum
which is kept by a man of this place — here we spent three very entertaining
hours — The keeper of this
Museum
[74] was formerly a Captain in the East India Service and is now Admiral
at
Mr Pocklingtonsregattas. which happen a
^nnually and generally in August, — he has really collected a number of
curious things a minute description of them is utterly impossible but I will
endeavour to recollect those that most pleased Among his Fosils (which are very
numerous) there is an Egyptian aget, which is about the size of a crown piece,
it is finely polished and nature has depicted on one side the semblance of a
monsterous cavern, — and on the other a rugged bridge and water beneath it.
there is another no less worthy observation and it was found in the neighbouring
mountains it is a stone of blue colour, in which are thinly scattered several —
garnets of rich hue, and different dimensions, — and upon examining those he
took from the stone
Crosthayte perceived some
had twelve and others twenty four
sides as
exact as the most skillful artist could have formed them. — he has got six
musical stones, which he found in the
river
Derwent, they are of flat oblong form, and so well in tune with
each other by nature, that by striking them with mallets he can perform any
piece of music that does not require a greater extent of notes. — this harmony
is totally new and very pleasing. — There is also a remarkable branch of oak in
this form
38 also the
wen of an oak, in which there is the resemblance of a
distorted countenance, the features are human, and in the mouth which is much
extended, there is a face exactly like that of a monkey. — This was discovered
by accident when the bark was stript off, and may deservedly be reckon’d a
[75] very great curiosity — there are many different kinds of wood,
Coins, dried plants, birds, and beasts, all well preserved, in short it is out
of my power to enumerate all the sports of nature that amuses us in this
collection.
Mr
Crosthayte has also some knowledge of Astronomy on the walls are
^represented the Sun and planes in their
correspondent — distances and magnitudes — after dwelling long upon these and
many more things worthy our attention — we returned to
the Inn, and took an early dinner (after which) as the day had
cleared up, we embarked on board the
royaloakyatch for an excurtion up
the
lake. — this boat is a very neat and large enough to accommodate
fifty people — it is kept by our Landlord for the use of his company, and takes
its name from his sign –––––
— The afternoon was uncommonly pleasant and the excurtion delightful beyond
conception, the first object that presented itself was Pocklington Island it is charmingly situated near the bottom of
the lake and commands a fine prospect up it. — This Island is by much the
largest being about six acres nearly circular and rising gradually from all
sides, at the middle of it is an excellent Mansion belonging to Mr Pocklington in which
he resides most of the summer — he has likewise ornamented this little Elysium with wood and some buildings, on one side of
it there is an excellent imitation of a small Church, which adds greatly to the
beauty of the landscape, — between the porters lodge and the lake, on a rampart,
are planted a garrison of small cannons (six pounders) which are employed in
defence of the Island when attacked by the gun boats at the time of the Regatta — There are several other Islands finely
planted with wood
[76] one of which (before the rebellion 1715) belonged
to
Lord Derwent-water who had a house upon it.
— and he being ingaged in the part of the rebels, that, as well as other lands,
in the neighbourhood were forfeited, and are now appropriated for the benefit of
Greenwhich Hospital, the house is
intirely demolished — from thence we persued our course to the top of the lake,
which is three miles and a half from the place we entered the boat. — we landed
here and were conducted to a beautifull
waterfall which far exceeded any we
had seen except that at
Kinmore,
39 we were informed it fell one hundred yards but not
perpendicular, it rushes over a very rugged bed, and forces itself down between
two stupendous rocks, which tho they have a very barren appearance, are finely
ornamented with [...] shrubs,
trees, and flowers, the rock on the right side of the
Cateract is called
Shepherds Hill,
and that on the left (which is considerably higher), is named
Gowdring Crag. — after having gazed long upon this
inchanting scene, we returned to the boat, and crossed the south end of the
Lake. From whence we had a grand and sublime view of
Borrowdale, and tho’ it is usually
known by that name, (— which implys a Valley) There seems not more than merely
sufficient room for the
river Derwent to
force itself a passage. — which river together with the waterfall supply this
Lake. — The evening grew more pleasant and scarce a breeze ruffled the smooth
surface of the Lake, The Sun was just declining below the Western hills and his
departing beams glimmering on the water occasioned a beautiful reflection of the
adjacent rocks and Wood
[77] never was there more inchanting scene. I
shall not attempt a description of it, but refer all those who have not been
there to that lively and
just account
given of it by Mr Brown, in a
micellany compiled by Mr Scot of Edinburgh, we were
about three hours in making this delightful excurtion, and returned to the inn
charmed with our days amusement — Friday September the twenty eight a dreadful
rainy morning, we were again disappointed, as we intended mounting
Skiddaw, — however we were obliged to be content
without it, and left
Keswick, soon after
breakfast, intending to reach
Kendall that
evening, but got no farther than
Ambleside
on account of the tempestuous — weather. had it been more favourable we should
have had a most delightful ride, the road good and uncommonly pleasant laying
through a beautiful, cultivated valley, encompassed with rocks equal (if not
superior) in height and grandeur, to any we saw in
Scotland, in — this valley are three fine lakes, the first
called
Thornmere, the next
Grasmere, and the one next
Ambleside (which belongs to
Sir Michael
Fleming who has a seat by it) is called
Rydale, — We left
Ambleside
the next morning and
^got to breakfast at
Kendall by ten, it rained as usual most of the way
which was a disappointment to us, as a great part of the road lies by the side
of
Windimere Lake, this is a beautiful piece
of water, thirteen miles in length, of an irregular form and from half a mile,
to two in breadth, — and tho’ much larger than
Keswick
Lake, the latter by most people is prefered on account of the
sublimity and grandeur of the adjacent rocks, whereas the lands adjoining
Windimere, are all in high cultivation.
— We staid to dine at
Kendall it seems a
good
[78] town and is pleasantly situated. in a fine fertile Valley, we
left it about three, and after a pleasant ride reached
Kirby Lonsdale by six, and took up our residence at
the Royal Oak till — morning. This is a small
pleasant town situated on the banks of
the
Lune. — On Sunday morning we persued our way to
Lerawnest which is a quarter of a mile to the right
of the road about four miles from
Settle. —
Mr Waddington and his family were much
surprized at the sight of such unexpected visitors, and treated us with the most
friendly hospitality. we left them on Monday afternoon in spite of all their
intre
^aties to the contrary. — We reached
Skipton that evening, there is at this place
another Castle belonging to
Lord Thanet, which
a good deal resembles that at
Appleby, — We
left this place early in the morning and breakfasted at
Ilkley. where I was happy in seeing
Miss
Waud and
Miss Brown, — from
thence we went to
Otley dined with
Mrs Flesher. who kindly
entertained us at her house till Friday, till which time we were storm–staid by
a flood occasioned by the quantity of rain which had fallen just before.
Notwithstanding the
sublime and diversified prospects
we had enjoyed, we were not blind to the justly celebrated beauties of
Wharfdale.
which appeared like an extensive
policy through which
the river (in its course resembling
the Tay)
unwinds itself. — We passed through
Harwood
but having
no house did not stop.
Thorparch appeared more beautiful
even than
usual . — and by six we reached
Oxton. — I shall not
write the
meeting was a happy one —
that surely is
unnecessary — Thus closes the Journal —
and if to any of my friends
too
[79] it gives the smallest entertainment. I shall esteem myself
particularly happy. I trust it will never be perused but by the candid eye of
friendship which is ever ready to excuse every error, when it is not the error
of the heart. —