T.W.1
1810
[]
i
T. Winfield
1810 —
[]
ii
Journal
of a
Voyage to the Western
islands of Scotland —
from
July 7. to Aug. 7.
1810.
[1]
July. 7th. 1810 —
We this day agreed with Messrs.
Mc.Iver, Mc.Viccar, and Mc.Corquodale of
Liverpool, to hire a sloop of theirs in
the Greenock Trade — for the purpose of
taking a voyage amongst the Western Islands
of Scotland, touching at any place we might
think proper —xi but
stipulating that the Butt of Lewis should be
the most Northerly point of our Cruise — Every thing being in readiness, we
shipped our sea store — and went on board the vessel at three o-Clock — and
immediately got under weigh the breeze was very light — but
[2] the Ebb
Tide soon carried us far beyond the
xBlack Rockii — The sight of the welsh coast, with the
Great ormshead &c induced us to endeavour to
get into
Beaumaris — but the tide failing us
when we came to
Puffin Island, & the
wind not quite fair we took the small
^boat a shore to
W Penmon Point — & from thence
walked up to
Beaumaris about 5 miles distant
—
xiii The same afternoon we left it by return of the Ebb
Tide — & passing between
Priestholme
Island & the
Penmon Pt. steered for the
Isle of Man — at two oClock a.m. the morning
following — we came to in the bay of
Douglas
— near to the Light House — The architecture of this aspires at more ornament
than buildings of this sort in general boast of being [...] having pilasters around it, with pannels between
them
[3] & a deep frieze & cornice above them — it is almost
handsome, but the upper part looks heavy & ill suited to the lower — it
stands at the end of a very substantial & beautiful Quay — or rather pier —
built with an exceedingly hard stone of a reddish colour — which is brought from
the
isle of Arran
on the left, immediately opposite to the light House — is seated a large white
House belonging to
Mr.
Wallesly the situation of it, would be particularly fine — if
there were any trees near it, but at present it seems naked & exposed —
about a mile to the N.E. of the Town stands a new built house of the
Duke of Athol’s — it is on the flat sandy beach,
quite low with lofty hills rising immediately at the back of it — but yet from
its size, it is conspicuous, & certainly looks fine — it consists
^chiefly of a large square with square Towers at the [...] angles —
[4]
In the harbour of
Douglas we saw a number of
vessels some of them particularly an american just come in, of a large size,
which gave it a very commercial appearance — but the Quay is the only
respectable part of the Town — the streets are narrow & dirty — In the
evening we went to the Theatre Royal, to see the
Merchant of Venice, & a Harlequin
Pantomime — bespoken by
Sir Jn. Piers — The Theatre is
^a
very small room — but the performances were by no means bad — We here had an
opportunity of seeing pretty closely several noted characters, who honour the
island with their presence for their own private convenience — what is singular
They wear a costume peculiar to themselves, wh
c.
makes them look ridiculous — it consists of long blue Trowsers, which reach up
to the chest almost — having a buff waistcoat underneath
^over above which the red braces are seen — for the short child’s
jacket which they wear studded with little bell buttons, is constantly thrown
open — with this they wear a
[5] black, or coloured silk handkerchief
high up to their chins — whiskers, if not mustachios also, enormous, and
occasionally large rings thro their ears — Were not the character of these men
known, their dress & manners are such as to
^excite
disgust
[...]
2
We left the Isle of Man the day following
about 4 oClock P.M. & coasted slowly round to Mauglan head, &
the Point of Air — from hence we saw
Jurby Head & as we sailed onward,
could descry the whole coast towards Peel —
& even beyond it — towards the Calf of
Man — the Land is for the ^most part
[6] Mountainous (but
^tho’ not very high) —
where it is otherwise it appears very rich & fertile — but every where
appears
^there is a great scarcity of trees, without
which a country can never boast great pretensions to beauty — we soon got sight
of the
Mull of Galloway — but on nearing it,
the wind failed —
xiv The Tide carried us some distance
back — but in the afternoon we again had it in our favour — and early on the
morning following we were opposite to
Port
Patrick — at this Time it was perfectly calm — & a thick fog
came on — about mid day it cleared up — & we saw the
Craig of Ailsa at a distance — rising from the sea in the form
of a cone — very high & abrupt — it
^is an
exceedingly fine object — & well worthy of a visit — before we landed on it
— we fired a swivel — but the number of birds disturbed by it, was not
[7] so great as we had been led to expect — there were however immense numbers of
them to be seen — we found the Tacksman on shore with about half a dozen men,
whom he employs to destroy the birds, which is done for the sake of the feathers
— for which the proprietor of the rock, L
d.
Elphinstoune
3 receives a rent of about
£30, as we were told — no guns are allowed to be fired
on the island. & the only method Employed for destroying the birds is by
robbing their nests — this is done by men who having fastened a rope to the
summit of a rock lower themselves down, until they meet with a nest in which the
birds are concealed — many of which are knocked down by a
^long stick, which the man always carries with him for the purpose —
we walked up with some difficulty to the castle, a small square tower at about
one third of the
[8] way to the Top — the ascent is narrow & very
steep — but it is the only part that is accessible — for the rock is almost
perpendicular on everyside — our sail from hence to
Greenock up the
Frith of the
Clyde was very pleasant — the banks being very beautiful on each
side — the long coast of
Ayr extending on
the Eastern Side — with
Arran,
Bute &c opposite & the 2 islands of
Cumray between them — We did not reach
Greenock until the following morning
about four oClock — the Town is not large but part of it is tolerably handsome —
The new
xvChurch, & the Tontine are the best public building [
sic] —
indeed they are the only ones worth notice excepting a castellated Gaol, now
building at the back of the church. — The Presbyterian Kirk is seen as you enter
the Town from the Westward — it is large & rather ancient — The Trade of
Greenock
[9] is considerable —
together with
Port Glasgow it has the whole
trade of
Glasgow — but yet we found great
difficulty at the Bank in getting change for our English notes — of which they
always have suspicion — & will scarcely ever take them — we were under the
necessity of indorsing the notes with our name, & particulars of Residence.
— The situation of
Greenock is quite
beautiful — the Sea has the appearance of a large Lake encircled with mountains,
in general well cultivated & fertile — with the rugged mountains of
Cowal rising beyond the
Duke of Argyles woods at one extremity, while the
celebrated rock of
Dunbarton rises at the
opposite end —
Port Glasgow is also seen on
the shore, about four of 5 miles higher up than
Greenock — & looks very beautiful — Leaving
Greenock
[10] we again sailed along the
Frith of
Clyde — & saw the
Marquis of
Bute’s house
Mount Stuart, in
a delightful situation on
Bute Island not
far from
Rothsay — the house does not appear
very large or
grand — with the woods
around it the land which appears uncommonly fertile under it beautiful — The
whole island is said to be very rich & good — & in general not very
mountainous —
Arran also is said to contain
Excellent land — but it has more mountains of which
Goatfield is particularly high — & from its form &
situation near the Sea, uncommonly fine — at the foot of it stands
Brodick Castle, belonging to the
Duke of Hamilton, as descendant from
Chatelherault — in fact the whole island, excepting
only one or two small farms, is the property of the Duke — we landed at
Brodick
[11] & walked up to the castle, which commands a very noble view of
the sea, with fine mountainous country around it — we were desirous of seeing
the interior of the Castle — but on sending to the Tacksman who lives
^in it, to request leave — we were told that the
Laird Lamont was
at dinner, & could not see us — we therefore took our leave — & found a
reception at the inn below — where we also met with some Excellent Whiskey — at
3
L. the bottle — We now soon came under
Lamlash island, which rises very nobly
from the sea, & is in height & form peculiarly fine it stands in front
of the entrance into a bay & harbour of the same name — in which is good and
safe anchorage —
[12]
on the following morning we found ourselves not far from the
Mull of Cantire — but the weather being calm —
& the Tide against us — we endeavoured in vain to get round
Fair Head on the coast of
Ireland — and therefore we took the small boat, & went on
shore in
Cushendon bay — about a mile to the
South of
Torr’s point — The coast is every
where on this part steep, rugged & dangerous — We were told by the
inhabitants many of whom crowded to us on our landings — that the distance from
Bally castle was exactly seven miles —
that for the first two miles we had to ascend the hills, but that afterwards, we
should find an excellent level road — We were four hours in walking to
Ballycastle — & the distance could
[13] not be less that 13 or 14 miles
vi About half a mile
before you come to the
Town of
Bally castle we passed the remains of an abbey which seems to
have been extensive it is now much used as a place of burial — & the smell
of it we found quite offensive, as the night-fell — the Town is about a quarter
of a mile distant from the sea, & consists principally of one street on the
brow of a hill — the houses are poor — & the inn tho’ not promising in
appearance is tolerably comfortable — The best houses are to be seen on the Quay
— but the harbour of
Bally castle does not
seem much frequented — the water is very deep — opposite to it is
Church Bay in the island of
Raughlan in which is better anchorage in most winds except
those from S.W.
[14]
We slept at
Bally castle, & hired
horses
vii
for the following morning to take us to
Bally
castle, the
Giant’s
Causeway, said to be nine miles distant — but in reality 10 ½ miles
English
^Irish — or nearly 14 English — when we had gone
about 3 miles — we left our horses at some cabins near the road — & walked
down a short distance towards the sea to the “
flying
bridge of Carregarhiad”
viii which is formed of robes with two thin boards
about 18 inches wide
^lashed upon them — & one rope
for the hand to hold as you pass over — These ropes are belayed on each side of
a vast chasm & connect a high perpendicular rock, & the main land whose
front is equally bold & perpendicular with the sea about 50 yards in breadth
dashing beneath, at a depth of perhaps 100 yards — This
[15] bridge is
merely put up in the summer months for the use of the fishermen who rent a
consderable [
sic] salmon fishery carried on, beneath the rock — to
which there is no access by across the flying bridge — the whole is not unlike
the
South Stack light house near
Holy Head — but is much more fearful—
From hence — we kept on the Summit of the cliffs near the Coast — passed a castle
very curiously situated on a ridge of rock detached from the Cliff which
commands it — but before the invention of Powder it was probably a place of
Great Strength like other it is merely one square Tower — not large — we took
several views, looking from the summit of the perpendicular cliffs which
overhang the Sea — that of Pleaskin
[16] is most fine — the columnar
forms of the rock is certainly very singular & curious — Soon after this we
met with some
xix guides, who conducted us down
one of the steepest parts of the mountain by a little slippery dangerous path,
down immediately upon the
Causeway — The
first object shewn is a large stone called absurdly the Giant’s chair, not far
from this, a few columnar appearances in the side of a rock are called the organ
— There are 3 causeways — the larger one, stretches out about 250 yards into the
sea, from the base of a high cliff — the other two, are but very small — indeed
they properly form parts of the larger one — the basaltic columns forming the
causeway do not rise high — & are merely to be considered as a great natural
curiosity — They have 4. 5.
[17] 6. 7. & 8. sides indiscriminately
but all compactly fitting into one another — & some of them very perfect
& regular. — The shore appears rough and dangerous even for boats to land. —
Leaving the
Giant’s causeway with some
little disappointment, we walked up the hill to an inn newly built, — where our
horses were ready for us — we were followed by about 20 men all claiming the
merit of having been our guides & having
conducted us — all of them it was impossible to satisfy — & this attempt at
an imposition did not tend to make us more pleased with the
Giant’s causeway — we now took the high road back
again, and at 6 oClock in the Evening were happy to find ourselves on board our
vessel in
Ballycastle Bay — which we
instantly quitted — & stood out for the
mull of
Cantire — at five oClock the next morning
[18]
the Tide began to flow so strong that we were fortunate in casting anchor in
Loch nakeel — to wait the return of it —
here we took the large boat & rowed to an island which we had just passed,
about 3 miles astern of us — one of Mc. Cormac’s isles — in which we
found the remains of a building which has every appearance of a small chapel
attached to a dwelling House — within this we found an arched recess, with a
figure of a priest in his robes laying upon the stone below it. the figure is
only 4 feet 6 inches long — but the stone is 6ft. 6
in. — it is said to be the burial place of the priest of Mc. Cormac — the Chieftain
himself is buried a little to the Eastward of the chapel, with
encircled by
a low wall
[19]
Close to the South wall of the chapel is shewn a plain Grave without any stone,
or other mark — Said to contain the remains of
Mc. Cormac’s daughter — on the highest
part of the island which may perhaps be a quarter of a mile long — stands a
broken cross — which has once been beautiful — one side richly carved &
ornamented — with a rude figure representing our Saviour on the Cross — &c —
the other filled with writing which cannot now be easily decyphered — we were
told very seriously by a fisherman who lives in the neighbourhood — that an
Irishman once attempted to carry off this cross — but that so long as he had the
cross on board his ship — he was unable to get home — & was tossed about,
until he threw it overboard near the
Mull of
Cantire — from whence the cross floated back to it’s own island
— but was broken in the manner now seen — The same
[20] man also shewed
up what he called the preaching place — a sort of recess in the side of the hill
to the S.E. of the isle — where there is a cave — into which if any young lad or
lass ever enters, he can never have a wee ane — This he was assured of — he knew
many a one who had attempted it, & he told us a long account of one who had
ridiculed the idea — & rashly Entered the cave. —
Returning from this island (where we found a number of fishing men with their
boats) we got under weigh — but were obliged to put into Crinan Bay the same Eveng. — we
went on shore — & met with a Pilot, just returned from a Cruise in the
Hebrides — whom we agreed to take with
us — we then walked about a quarter of a mile to see the canal which joins
Loch Crinan & Loch Gilpie —x & ferried over to a small island, where there is a
salmon fishery — it does not seem to be a good one —xi & the few salmon they take are in general small — but
[21] they are cheap
xii — & we found them very good — as soon as they
are taken, they are put into Salt
xiii — & few if any are
attempted to be sold fresh — the Loch & the Country about it, is exceedingly
pretty — tho’ the Castle belonging to M
c.Callum —
who bought it a few years ago — is in the least pretty part of it — The weather
being unfavorable — we did not leave
Crinan
until the next morning — when we passed within about a mile & a half of the
famous
Gulph of Coryvrechhan between the
rocky shore of
Jura, & the high rocks of
Scarba — the weather was very moderate
but we saw plainly the breakers. The Tide Eddies so strongly and so variously
round the innumerable rocks that crowd this part of the sea — that the
navigation is rendered Extremely difficult & dangerous — Either in
boisterous weather, or in a calm — We
[22] took what advantage of the
Tide we possibly could — but again we were obliged at the Turn of it to run into
a small bay in the island of
Lunga — All
this was exceedingly Tedious — but it gave us an opportunity of witnessing the
hospitality of
Mr.
Brown who rents the land from
Mc. Dougall of
Lunga — The sea was now more open to us — tho the slate
islands, with
Eisdale
Seyl
&
c seemed almost
to close together the passage between
Lunga
&
Loeng — but at midnight we weighed
anchor — & early in the morning were at the entrance into the sound between
Kerera & the main land
xiv — after laying to for a short time —
we got worked up the narrow sound, — & just as we came in sight of
Oban struck on a flat rock who runs a
considerable way out from the land — the Tide flowed gently & in
[23] little more than an hour carried us off without any injury — we landed at
Oban — about Two oClock —
July 20. — After dining we walked out to see the Argyleshire Local Militia at
Exercise in a field near the Town — they are about 800 strong — & with their
Kelt & Highland uniform have a very martial appearance — we had not been
long in the field, before several (whom we found to be the inhabitants of
Oban) came up to us — one of them
Dr. Mc.Leay accompanied us to our inn —
was anxious to shew us every civility — & invited us to breakfast with him
the next morning — At his house we were introduced to the young Laird of Coll — to Captn. Campbel of B[...] in the isle of Tyree — & one or two more — By them we were
invited to their mess — but being unable to return in Time from Dunstaffnage & Beregonium which we proposed to visit that
[24] day —
we were prevented from dining with them — The day following we had a specimen of
the hearty reception which strangers may expect from the mess of Highland Reg
t. —
Dunolly Castle stands on a rock at the point
which to the N. of the chief entrance into the harbour of Oban — it consists of one small square tower but
from it’s situation looks very commanding — & is a fine object — Soon after
passing under this — we perceived the Castle of
Dunstaffnage about 2 ½ miles to the Northward, near to the sea —
it is much larger than Dunstaffnage^olly — , & was for some time a regal
residencexv — the Situation of it is not very bold, tho’ it is
built on a foundation of rock which seems to have been hewn to the dimensions of
the Castle, & which makes it quite
[25] inaccessible excepting at
the E. Side where a flight of steps leads to the Entrance thro’ a narrow archway
into the Castle — it is a square with Towers that do not project far at the
corners of it — at present nothing remains but the shell — within it is built a
high house with gable ends — not exactly according with the castle, — & also
outhouses &c — in these the Tacksman now lives — who rents the property from
Mc.Donald of
Dunstaffnage — the upper window & the walk on the
xxvi battlements of the Castle command a
very Extensive and Exceedingly beautiful prospect on every side — the
xxviiConnel a narrow passage of the loch which runs up to
Bunawe &c — where the sea
dashes with great violence, (having the appearance of a wier across
the it) is seen plainly
[26] the Mountains, especially
Cruchan Ben rising magnificently beyond
& indeed the whole Country appears astonishing fine — & the view towards
the Sea is not less so. — within a short distance from the castle is a chapel
wherein Several of the Kings of
Scotland are
said to be buried — it has had a sort of chancel added to the East End — which
disfigures it considerably — otherwise from the shape of the small Gothic
windows, narrow to the Exterior but large within, & the remains of Gothic
ornaments within, it has boasted some elegance in it’s time — probably it is not
a very ancient building — There is a curious effect of an echo
with A
person stands in a particular situation round the corner of a small rock which
is near the chapel, & thence directing his voice
[27] towards the
chapel — the sounds seems to proceed from the inside of the chapel — to those
stationed in front of the building — We could perceive no monuments of Early
date within — it is still used as a place of burial —
From Dunstaffnage to Beregonium is about 3 miles, where the traces of an ancient
vitrified fort are to be discovered — they skirt the summit of a rock which is
not very high, & like ^almost all other very ancient
fortresses is commanded by a neighbouring rock, much larger & higher than
itself — It is said that Beregonium was once
the capital of Scotland, at the Time when
first the Kings resided at Dunstaffnage
Castle — The specimens of vitrification found, are very curious
– & of a variety of colours many of which are quite beautiful — They
resemble the burned kelp,
[28] & must have required very intense
heat, before they could have been reduced to their present state — It seems
evident that it was intentionally done — which the appearance of other similar
forts, particularly one near
Inverness the
walls of which now remain some feet above the surface of the ground — probably
it might be done, to consolidate the wall, before the use of cement was
known
4 —
We returned to oban — & in the Evening
went to Dr. Mc.Leay’s, where we met with a
Dr. Bayard
just returned from Staffa, Icolumkill &c — he was preparing to sail to his
native country America together with a
number of Emigrants from the different islands, whom a xxviiivessel was then waiting to convey from oban — We were no less surprized than sorry to find this system
of Emigration still continued — But we
[29] were assured by
Dr. Mc.Leay that
Scotland
was totally unable to maintain it’s own encreasing population — & that the
country was too poor — & the quantity of arable land too small to allow of
much improvement — that the grazing system was becoming every day more prevalent
in the country, & by consequence the labour of individuals less required —
that it remained therefore for those of the poor who could not find employment
in their own country either to emigrate — or to starve at home in the most
abject state of slavery & degradation — for we were told that the state of
vassalage & subjection in which several of the Lairds retain their inferior
tenantry, is at this present day, as bad if not more hateful that that of former
ages —
Mc.Dougall of
Dunolly was quoted as a specimen if all that is said of him be
true,
[30] no man can be censured for holding out encouragement to his
Tenants to quite such a chief — Those who hold land under him, are bound to pay
all the Laird’s Taxes, & all that he may hereafter be levied upon him —
& it is not long since he told his Tenants — that he had been obliged to pay
£900 for his son’s commission in the army — This he considered a Tax & as
such they were bound to pay it forthwith — & he instantly levied it —
— A singular instance of the attachment of a clan to its chief was seen — one of
our boatmen, also a poor man, who had begged us to give him his passage from
Beregonium to Oban — happened to belong to Mc.Dougal’s clan — & as we passed
under Dunolly Castle & were listening to
the accounts which our boatmen gave us of the Laird — we discovered that these 2
men were Mc.Dougals — & asked
[31] if
they liked their chief, & if they would obey his orders, were he to call on
them to fight for him — the both of them confessed they did not like him — but
the old man not at all pleased at the abuse he had heard of him, — declared he
would follow him, & if he was young & a fighting man — he would fight
for him — the other told us, the Laird’s Father was a good man, & therefore
he w
d. fight for the Father’s Son —
On Sunday morng. July 22d — we attended the Parade of the Regt. of
local militia — for the purpose of hearing a Gaelic Sermon preachd in the open
field — when the square was formed, all persons who were desirous, were admitted
within — & the greatest part joined in a hymn with which the service began —
The effect of it was peculiarly impressive — a precentor
[32] gave out
each separate time — & numbers joined, singing in the most perfect harmony,
the solemn swell of which was ecchoed from the surrounding Hills — & could
not fail to raise emotions of piety altho’ the words were to us totally
unintelligible — During the singing, all excepting the military sat crowded
together — when the prayer followed — all stood up — this prayer was uttered
with much apparent devotion by the minister — it seemed once long continued
prayer — but of course we could not understand it — Again we sat down — &
heard the Gaelic sermon — after which followed a hymn equally fine with the
former & we departed after hearing the blessing of the minister — &
adding our contribution to that of others — this we understood was for the sole
use of the minister himself —
[33]
This evening we
went on board
^dined with the mess — & the morning following went
on board our vessel — but the wind & weather proving very unfavorable — we
could not sail before the next morning, when at five oClock, we left
Oban — and passing under
Lismore Island,
&
past the
Lady Rock we entered
the
Sound of Mull — along the coast of which
on each side a regular line of communication was kept up by castles — of wh
h. one,
the N.E.
end of
Mull, call
d
castle Douart, seems even larger than
Dunstaffnage — the others are but small
& uninteresting — we had some thoughts of landing at
Arros, & walking across the narrow neck of Land to the head
of
Loch [...] — & to have taken boat from thence to
Staffa, but we determined to attempt to
[34] sail round the island — &therefore passed on to
Tobermorey, & stood round the
Head
^Pt
of Ardmore — The wind not answering — we
beat
up — but did not pass the
Pt. of Treshenish, or
Fladda &c. &c. before daylight the next morning — about
Seven oClock we were pretty close in with the isle of
Staffa — we then stood across towards
Ulva &
Inch Kenneth
&c. & again tacked to
Staffa — the
Surf was so high, that it was in vain to attempt to land on it, and we therefore
ran down to the island of
Icolumkill —
whence the vessel came to — we sailed to the town of
Icolumkill in the large boat — my expectations were not high —
& so far from being disappointed, I was gratified particularly by a sight of
the ruins — I had no idea of their remaining in the state in which we found
[35] them — they are indeed almost entirely unroofed — but most of the
outer walls remain & within are found several curious and beautiful
specimens of architecture of different dates — for both the circular norman,
& the pointed Gothic arches are found — & one of two which appear to be
Saxon.
— The Schoolmaster of Iona came down to the
beach to us, & attended us round the buildings as our Guide — & we were
pleased to find both the Nunnery & the
Cathedral no longer converted into Cow
houses — but on the contrary — every thing apparently in a state of preservation
— Owing to the attention of Mr. Pennant & Sir Joseph
Banks — who first brought Iona into notice5 — The Tomb stones are very numerous, &
very many of them richly and skillfully carved — on many are
[36] seen
recumbent figures of the Highland Chieftains — or the priests or Abbesses who
have been buried either at the
Nunnery or
the
Cathedral — on very many are to be found
inscriptions, most of which might probably be decyphered without much
trouble—
Plain flat Stones, in general mark the burial places of the Kings but on that of
the French King may be traced a rich cross — & at the head is a stone — the
date of which seems to be 900 — but it is of the crosses, there are
several remains, all of them handsome — particularly a large perfect one near
the Cathedral — another close to it, has
perhaps been more wrought but it is mutilated — about 2 thirds of the way
between the Nunnery & the Cathedral stands a perfect cross called Mc. Leans. Erected
before the forfeiture of the
[37] island in the Rebellion — It is very
thin & tall & appears to be a kind of hard slate — this also is
considerably ornamented — Besides the two buildings already mentioned, is the
chapel of St.
Owran — & several other small buildings, some connected with
& others detached from the former — They are all fully described elsewhere
—
In a bay about Two miles from the Town beautiful pebbles are picked up amongst
which the green steatites, which are said to be found in no other part of
GrBrn. — The children collect them,
& bring them to you for sale, as soon as you land — Iona boasts an inn, but it is not very capital in its
appearance —
— The wind being rather more moderate — we steared for Staffa — & after once landing on it — took our boat, in
hopes
[38] of being able to take it round to see the different caves
from the Sea — but the Swell & the Surf were so great, that
^we were compelled to return — we then walked to the top
of the Cliff above the caves — & afterwards over the low basaltic columns
near the shore, until we reached the entrance into
Fingals cave — of which our expectations had been raised very
high, & tho’ it exactly corresponded with what we had heard of it’s Grandeur
& is similar to the interior of a Gothic Cathedral — yet the effect was even
more solemn & grand than could have been conceived — the dashing of the
waves into the Cavern added to the whole — & the sound of a gun fired at the
mouth of it, had an exceedingly fine effect — we now returned to our boat,
retracing our former steps over the bending columns
[39] which form the
Ship rock & past a Cavern — our
vessel was lying to for us under the Lee of the island — we went on board &
the wind blowing fresh from the NN. E. S. E — we soon passed the islands of
Lunga,
Fladda &c — &c at 12 at night were abreast of the
island of
Eigg — in a short time the
point of Slate, at the extremity of
Skye was visible — we were at this time
running about nine miles an hour, with only our main sail topsail & jib —
the gusts & squalls from the Land obliging us to lower the fore sail &
top gallant sail — we now lay to for a short time, waiting for the break of day
— as the wind continued to blow very fresh — and at five we came into
Kilmoree Bay in
Loch
Slappen — but finding no shelter from a S.S.E wind — were
obliged to run up to the extremity of the Loch, where we cast anchor in a
place
[40] surrounded by immense rocks & mountains, exceedingly
wild and picturesque — the mountains, are almost totally devoid of vegetation,
and seem impervious — in their forms they much resemble the
Paps of Jura — & the whole scenery is not
unlike that of the
Warfdale in
Cumberland — the rugged summit
xxixof
Blavein with the
Skur na
Cullin are just seen rising from the others. — We put the boat
out went on shore — & having procured a guide from the house on the beach,
walked up the braes towards
Mc. Callister’s house — the
Laird
Strathaird — within half a mile of his house, we had the good
fortune to meet with the Laird, to whom we mentioned our desire of visiting his
cave6 — he instantly turned back with us,
took us to his house, where he welcomed us with some white brandy — & then
set out with us towards the cave. — we had been told that it was
[41]
just five miles distant from the house whence we first started — but we had
walked nearly four miles to the Laird’s new built house & it was at least
five more, to the Entrance in to the cave — in our way we had passed by a cairn
— & also the remains of Danish Castle, it is circular — about 20 feet
diameter — the walls of it are very thick & built entirely without any
cement — within a short distance from it, is seen another castle, called the
Princess’s castle, being built by a
Danish Princess — it is said to have been exceedingly strong — There also in a
small hollow, with some trees in it and near to the coast, a part of a druidical
circle remaining — it does not appear to have been large — We were told by the
Laird, that there are numberless Danish remains, on his property — & over
the whole island —
Dr.
Mc.Callister’s house stands immediately above the cave — so
[42] much so, that when a large party were in the cave, their voices
were heard in the house above it — we called here & the D
r. gave us the welcome of the country — & then
accompanied us down the rock to the sea where his boat was in readiness for us,
to row us round a large projecting rock to the entrance into the cave. — it may
be approached at very low Ebb, without a boat — but is very much better to take
the advantage of a boat — the avenue leading to the Entrance of the cave is
uncommonly Grand — on Each Side stand two vast projecting walls of the rock —
fifty or 60 feet high and perhaps 30 feet asunder — between these at high water,
the sea rolls in almost to the cavern’s mouth — this also is exceedingly fine —
it is rather narrow in proportion to the height & is a little inclining to
the right — the roof is beautiful, with rough
[43] coarse stalactytes
hanging from it — the water which constantly drops from the roof is beautifully
clear on entering you turn a little to the left, & then proceed up
roughish
steep
^ascent, before you climb a height of about 30 feet
smooth & slippery, covered with the whitest petrification resembling spar —
& not unlike a
speit of water
petrified in the act of falling — on the top of this you again proceed about 30
feet, before you descend a fall exactly similar to that which we had before
ascended at the bottom of which is a pool of the clearest water possible — this
is perhaps 18 feet diamater & near the sides about 4 feet deep — the middle
is of course deeper — our guide waded thro’ this,
A.
sh. followed him & when they
got to the opposite side the light from their candles shewed us the distant part
of the cave which as we were
[44] told extends 46 feet beyond the two
pillars which stand at the narrow entrance into the inner part of it — one of
these pillars is particularly white & beautiful, feathering in the most
elegant manner to the summit — from whence the petrifactions hang like icicles
of the utmost beauty — the whole Cave is adorned in like manner, in which is
full scope for the imagination to fancy forms & figures of Every possible
variety — The whole is beautiful & elegant quite beyond expression — &
in our opinions was infinitely more striking than
Staffa
Cave, which we had seen the day before — This Cavern is said by
Dr. Mc. Callister to have been since
measured by
Mr.
Hooker, whose papers & every note relating to it were lost on
the his return from
Iceland —
but according to the
Doctor’s account it is
870 feet in length — I should
[45] imagine it to be from the beginning
of the avenue — it is probably 30 feet high and about 20 broad — but this varies
very considerably — for frequently it is very much higher — On our return from
the cave we again went to the
Doctor’s house
& afterwards returned with the
Laird to
his House — Here he had Tea ready for us with plentiful dish of fine Trout just
caught for us — our bread was barley & wheaten cakes very thin &
excellent — His daughter was introduced to us — it was our intention to have
gone forward immediately to our vessel — but it was growing late & our
friend declared the could not think of letting us depart at such an hour as Ten
oClock — when the road we had to travel was exceedingly rough & bad — our
Cap
t. &
Thomas returned with the guide — & we remained with
Strathaird — no sooner was Tea over, than
Miss. Mc.
Callister retired — & the Toddy
[46] was brought in,
of which there was no scarcity — In the morning, we had a capital breakfast with
eggs, Trout. &c — The latter are very plentiful in all the small Lakes,
& are caught just as occasion may require — they are large & excellent —
Besides these — Codfish, whiting, Haddock, Skate &c are caught in great
quantities — & no Loch affords greater supplies of herrings — The mutton was
we were told, very capital —
Strathaird is the
only person now in
Skye who continues to
have the wild red deer in his mountains. The small black cattle, of which large
quantities are fed on these mountains are famous — & we saw at
Dr. Mc.Callisters two dozen goats coming down in the evening to
be milked. The milk of these was we were told exceedingly rich, so also is that
of their cows, altho’ the quantity they give is but small — Potatoes they have
in abundance — but very little corn of any sort is sown — generally
[47]
barely
^a sufficient quantity of oats for their own
private consumption — Pasturage is what they chiefly attend to — & yet
Strathaird told us that he could any day
bring out to the field between one & 200 men — He seems to be much liked by
his tenantry — & has to us the appearance of one who justly deserved to be
so —
He was going to send a runner to a Post office several miles distant for his
letters & papers — which he has twice a week — & he offered to send my
letter by the same man — after having written it — we prepared to take leave
notwithstanding his pressing invitation to remain a few days with him — He was
going to send eight men with Criels to Broadford to carry back for him a hogshead of wine — which had
been two years there — he therefore walked with ^us to
the point where our vessel lay — & after going on board, crossed over the
ferry with his men, and proceeded with them — After putting him on shore — we
sailed with an idea of going to Dun Skye
[48] but the wind being against us, we determined to explore some of the
numberless caverns on the coast of
Strathaird — we entered many of them — They were not very
large, but we found some beautiful petrifactions — a few of them little inferior
in whiteness or beauty to those of the large cave — but by no means bearing any
comparison with it — The whole of the coast down to the very point is perforated
with caverns — of which few have ever been explored — and are of course unknown
— The large cave itself was not discovered until two years & a half ago —
when the
Laird being desirous of carrying to
his friends in
Edinburgh a few specimens of
the fossils on his coast, went with two of his men to the shore for
th
at^e purpose
^of
picking up some, when one of them going to the entrance of the cave as
far as the day light w
d. allow him
fancied he
could perceived something
[49] very white & beautiful over
his head & wished to explore further — but as there were no lights to be had
— the
Laird insisted on his returning until he
should procure some — in a day or two — he went with a party of friends — each
carrying a candle — & to their surprise, discovered the who most amazing
Cavern, that has yet been found out in any part whatever —
A person to whom
an extraordinary cavexx
— Late in the evening Strathaird came to us —
on his return from Broadford — & after
staying with us a short time — took his leave of us — we found in him all that
hospitality for which the islands are celebrated of which he gave us a further
proof the next morning — when seeing us under weigh in the Loch — he sent his
boat to us, with a cheese, a quantity of fresh butter, & some cream — a most
acceptable present to sailors.
[50]
July 28
th —
This morning, as we were tacking across to work out of Loch Sleppin, we came near to Dun
Skye, of which Ossian makes
mention — & we went on shore to see the ruins of the castle & drawbridge
connecting it with the range of adjoining rocks — It is built on a solid rock
nearly a square — & perpendicular on every side — a very high Sea may
perhaps occasionally dash between it & the main land — but not often — it is
however a place very strong by nature — The walls of the castle are not
considerable ^nor are they thick — they appear to have
been square, & are built with lime — The mountains on the opposite coast of
the Loch, are very wild & rugged, the forms of some of them particularly
Blavein is very fine — & they are
equally so after you clear the aird of
Strath & open upon Loch
Scavig — Close to this Loch, is a fresh water Lake
[51]
that from the appearance of the high bold Rocks that Environ it, must be
exceedingly well worth a visit — but we had not an opportunity of going to see
it — The harbour of
Scavig not being good —
& the wind blowing into it — we steered for
Canna, passing a great part of the Northern Coast of
Rum — the mountains of which island are very lofty
& pointed — The whole of it, as far as we could see appeared rocky, &
unfruitful — At nine oClock in the evening when we were about four miles distant
from
Canna & perhaps from
^Rum. 1. we saw a
whale which rose from the sea repeatedly & sometimes very near to our
vessel, but we were not quick enough with our guns, to get a shot at him — At
half past eleven we cast anchor in the harbour of
Canna — under
Compass
Hill,
[52] so called, because a compass when placed on a
certain spot on the summit of the hill, turns immediately from N. to S. — we
carried a small compass up with us early in the morning & found this to be
the case, altho’ at the distance of about a foot, it did not vary in the least
—
We had heard of the beauty of the Pebbles found on the coast of Rum — we therefore took the boat & crossed
over, to that island, about four miles distant — There is only one small spot
where it is possible to land — & there we found the surf so excessively
high, that it was rather dangerous & difficult to land we threw out a
longrope to a crowd of men & women who came down to the beach to us — &
a number of them, drew our boat high up on the shore — We found a number of
Pebbles, chiefly dark green — but some of agate — & the people of the island
had others which they had collected from a spot about half a mile to the South,
where the pebbles are more plentiful — but
[53] we did not see any that
were very beautiful or very curious — we now prepared to leave the shore — but
it was high water — & and the surf dashed in with great violence — after
some time a great number collected round the boat — & two of them got in —
when watching their opportunity — they launched the boat off into the surf &
continued to bring it alongside of a rock — from which we all got in as quick as
we could — & soon were clear out from the rocks — the wind was favourable
&. we soon reached our vessel —
At 5. in the evening we got under weigh — with an idea of going to Dunvegan in Skye — but in the morning we found that the wind had shifted a
little round to N. E — & we agreed to go to North
Uist — by some mistake, we came to the entrance into Loch Skiport before we found out our mistake — The
high mountain of Hecla had been mistaken for
that above loch Na Maddyxxi — but the Loch itself is narrow with several
[54]
islands & points of land running into it — a little to the North of it a
wide bay opens, with low lands all around it & a number of islands
interspersed in it — At the back of which rises a mountain in
Benbecula part of which is seen laying at the North
extremity of the Bay. — The island of
luia lays extended almost at
the Entrance — & beyond this again to the North is the high land of
North Uist for which
Hecla had been mistaken — we coasted slowly along
North Uist, which is exceedingly rocky
& barren — without any pasturage even for sheep — It was quite calm, &
we could not reach
Loch Na Maddy before the
next evening at six oClock — we put in here, for the purpose of getting
provisions, having been [...] that
the public house at
Loch na Maddy afforded a
shop where everything was to be had — on the contrary — we could
[55]
procure nothing.
Mr.
Dingwall the Landlord was in
South
Uist with the Local Militia — his wife was either shy of us, or
unwilling to accommodate us — we were not able to buy butter, eggs, or in fact
any thing. excepting a sheep if we chose to wait until the next day for it — for
it was not convenient to let us have it, that same evening — We left this famous
inn at
Loch na Maddy, where nothing eatable
was to be found, & immediately went on board our vessel & weighed anchor
— the tide was against us, & just as we made a tack close to the rocky
island at the entrance of the bay — the breeze quite failed & as the vessel
would not answer the helm, we were obliged to wear her to save us from the rock,
which was done just in time — we now bore up again for our former station &
cast anchor one more in
Loch na Maddy — a
harbour, affording as
[56] little to praise either for its outward
appearance, or it’s means of sustenance as any place we ever saw — the Land is
poor & miserable — & even the sea gives nothing but the Seathe, one of
the poorest sort of fish — At a short distance from the head of the Lake, there
is capital fishing for Trout in the fresh water — numbers of which were brought
home by a party, who had gone out returned from a day’s excursion into the
interior — They had a vessel which they brought from
Lynmouth in the
Bristol
Channel — & like ourselves were wind bound in
Loch na maddy — In the morning our hostess was in
better humour, for she sent a boat alongside of us, with a lamb alive — & an
offer of a pint of Whiskey — but we in turn refused it — Before we were able to
set sail — we bought from her two Scotch pints
[57] which to our
knowledge she diluted plentifully with water, & charged us 15 shillings —
after all it proved quite different from what the Captain had tasted for us —
the one being Highland whiskey — the other Greenock whiskey & water —
excessively bad — about 3 oClock. P. M. we were heartily glad to leave
Loch na maddy — we had a pleasant light
breeze which carried us past the entrance of the sound of
Harris, along the miserable, rocky & barren
coast — Of that island & the
Lewis —
each equally bad — soon after we passed
Scalpa or the
Glass-isle,
the light was put up in the light House, which serves as a guide to vessels
thro’ this part of the channel which is rendered in many places dangerous by
rocks, unless you steer between the
Glass
[58] Light house, & the
chiant
Isles — Early the morning following, we landed at
Stornaway, a considerable Town — which is the
metropolis of
the long island — & is a
place much resorted to by vessels which frequent these northern Seas. — it
contains nearly 2,000 inhabitants
xxii — Some years ago the fishery was of importance —
but of late years it has failed — & at present there is little or no trade
carried on — The house are in general very good — at least by comparison with
what we have seen — but in Canvas town, or the new Town, built at the E.
extremity of the old — nothing but the low huts are seen — such as we met with
every where in the islands — these are built around a square — in a double row —
the avenues thro’ which are dignified by the Title of Duke Street &c. —
[59]
They resemble a Hottentot village more than a British Town — & the
inhabitants themselves are not much unlike in costume or appearance — the women
who seem much more numerous than the men — wear their hair very long & loose
— their features are broad & ugly — they carry immense weights on their
backs, generally in criles — a sort of panier — which is carried by a band of
straw that crosses their chest
They bend very
much forward — so that the lower part of the panier rest upon the bottom of the
back — but the chief weight is supported from the chest — In these criles they
carry their turf, or other burdens — & go on barefooted — drudging like
slaves — an enormous [...] cap,
something similar to the Irish cap — & a square of coarse plaid thrown over
the shoulders, & fastened in front with an antique broach, bespeaks a person
[60] above the lower order — with the men the ancient distinction of
the highland dress seems laid aside — occasionally you see a tartan short coat
or jacket — & the trowsers which are worn are frequently of the Plaid — but
nothing like the Kelt is seen in the islands. Even the bonnet is rare — The
language also is on the decline — for
few are
met with on the coast who cannot speak English & the coast is almost the
only part inhabited — we were told by a tradesman in
Stornaway who rents the land from
Ld. Seaforth at £3.10 — the acre —
that in the whole island of
Lewis you cannot
find one acre of arable land, which is out of view of the sea — & yet
Lewis is considered a very fertile
island — the rent now received for it is 7,000 — & is shortly to be raised —
[61] This is exclusive of the Kelp, which
Ld. Seaforth keeps entirely to
himself — & of which, last year he sold in
London 800 Ton at £
15—p
r. Ton — The expences of manufacturing the kelp
amounted to 1.800 — so that the clear produce was £
10.200 —
xxiii
Seaforth Lodge where his Lordship house — is
a poor looking white-washed house, on a hill at the back of Stornaway — it looks very bleak, not a tree near it
— & the Ground quite wild & uncultivated.
— Ld. Seaforthxxiv had arrived in a cutter, about a week
before us — & had made known his orders that a certain number of his Tenants
son would be required within a stated time as recruits for his regiments — Those
farmers who have sons of age for the army are compelled to send them — &
dare not refuse to part with those whom
[62]
Ld. S.— may fix
upon — notwithstanding any inconvenience or mortification it may produce — on
such a tenure they hold their farms –––––
We had great difficulty in procuring provisions even at Stornaway — There are indeed two or three butchers — but they
seldom if ever kill their own meat — if they should chance to kill a beeve,
which was the case the day before we arrived — this event is made known, &
it is generally portioned out to buyers before the beast is killed — For mutton
— each person who can afford to eat it — keeps his own sheep — & when he
intends to regale his family — one is taken from the flock, & the butcher
sent for — but it never happens, that meat is kept for public sale — &
probably the poor do not know the taste of animal food — They have plenty
[63] of fish — The Ling of which great quantities are salted & dried
— Cod fish — Skates — congar eels — &
c &
c not far from
Stornaway we hailed a fishing boat from whom we bought two of
an excellent sort of fish — one a lythe — the other a silver eye — a fish not
unlike in colour or shape to the gold fish; — its flesh was exceeding white firm
& sweet — we bought also a large ling about 15 lb
s —
two codfish of equal weight — these
two smaller fish & a congar eel for two shillings — & one of
sailors [
sic] gave a quid of tobacco for another eel ––––– At the
Town of Stornaway fish was nearly as cheap fish was
nearly as cheap — for a codfish & two skates, weighing in all upwards of
£
30—
^we were only charged
10
d––––– We were in hopes of getting good whiskey in
Stornaway — we had enquired, &
tasted in vain at every island which we touched at — but excepting at
Arran, where it was famous
[64] & at
Lunga at the Factors — we could get no
good whiskey at all — At
Stornaway it was
the same — all the private Stills are prohibited — & the good whiskey may
perhaps yet be made in secret — a stranger has little chance of finding it out —
There is a custom House — & a Revenue Cutter stationed here — & we were
told that the Excise officers were very strict & frequent in their search
––––– We were at last supplied with a few gallons, as a favour, at 15 shillings
the gallon — but it was quite new & raw — This we got on board — & in
the morning we set sail from
Stornaway on
our return to
Oban —
Lord Seaforth went out just before us in a cutter to the
northward on his way to the
Flannen isles,
which belong to him — they lay on the North West coast of the
Lewis –––––
[65.]
As we sailed along — we saw the whole extent of the N.W. coast of
Scotland from the
Cape
Wrath the most Northern point — down past
Loch Broom &c
&c. to the South of
Ruhe the mountains seem uncommonly
Grand — in form & size — The coast
Skye
also as we approached it, was exceedingly fine — the
isles of Chiant & the line of dangerous Rocks & small
isles which lay between them &
the isle of
Skye, were to the South
^& W. of us
— We entered the narrow sound between
Rona
&
Rassay islands, &
Skye — the former is a small island very rocky
& barren — not any fertile land is visible from the S.W. coast of it — &
the adjoining
Rassa is scarcely better until
you approach
the Lairds House fronting the
South — it stands in a most beautiful situation with a number of trees near it —
& a steep mountain to skreen off the N. winds at the back of it — it is by
much the most inviting situation we had yet seen in the islands —
Rassa is a small island & tho' for the most
part
[66] rugged & unfruitful — yet possesses some very good land —
opposite to it, is a
n
^large extent of arable land on the mountainous coast of
Skye which also form [
sic] part of
the property of
Mr.
Macleod the Laird of
Rassa —
he is encircled by
^L. Mc.Donald the proprietor of the
greatest part of
Skye ––––– much of the
coast
^of Skye to
the N. abounds with basaltic columns, many of them uncommonly regular perhaps
not less so than
Staffa, but there is no
cave ––––– Above these is a vast mountain the shape of which is fine — &
from it not very far the summit — stands out a singular pillar of Rock quite
detached & separate from the mountain —
7
— As you trace the range of mountains from hence to the interior — they appear
particularly fine — those at the head of Loch
Sleppin are seen rising from the East, & Blavein one of the Cuellein
Hills is also seen –––––
— At the End of Rassa, & between it &
Scarba8 is the
sound, thro' which
[67] vessels pass for the Southward — the narrow
channel between
Scarba &
Skye is shoal & dangerous from the sandbanks —
we saw vessels lying there at the point of
the isle of
Scarba — where is a great herring fishery — we learned from a
boat belonging to one of them — that each boat was then taken [
sic] about 3
barrels daily — altho' the season was scarcely begun –––––
Scarba is not nearly so long as
Rassa, but it is broader & higher — & very
much more green — near to it, is another
^small green
isle called
Pabba — we were told that the
immense number of Rats upon it, had driven off every inhabitant — & that as
soon as the corn was ripe, it was necessary to carry it away immediately — there
are also many small islets & rocks in this channel, which render it too
dangerous to
^be attempted in the dark — & the
entrance by
Castle Moylast9 is also
exceedingly narrow
xxv — Here also the tide sets in with great force not less than
nine miles an hour
[68] so that unless the wind is very favorable &
blowing strong, it is not possible to make head against it. —
xxvi
In the narrows near Caliach Stone where the
gut takes a sharp turn to the left, opposite to the entrance to Loch Duich — two vessels were lost last year owing
to the wind failing them, & the current of the tide bearing them down upon
the rocks — The passage thro' these narrows is generally more tedious than we
found it — altho' we were compelled to row our vessel up to Caliach Stone & there anchor until the morning
came, & the tide turned in our favour — Then we were +xxvii compelled to tow the vessel a very considerable distance, in
order to keep her head steady — Even this was not sufficient when we came
opposite to Glenelg where it widens into a
bay — the eddier took us, & carried us completely round about, three or four
times, with some rapidity — At length the tide carried us beyond the eddies,
& we glided gently down, fully expecting that we should be
[69]
obliged to put into
Isle alornso harbour on
the coast of
Skye, & there wait until
the return of the Tide — Fortunately a light breeze sprang up, & carried us
onward, till we came beyond the force of the stream — we had now some hopes, as
the breeze freshened that we might reach
Tobermory by break of day & be able to land at
Oban about 3 or 4 oClock P.M — We had arrived off
the
point of Slate & were fast nearing
upon
Eigg — when we went to bed at eleven
oClock — at 12 — The wind fell, & it became quite calm — So that in the
morning when we hoped to have seen
Oban we
found ourselves precisely in the same spot, where we had seen the vessel the
night before –––––
xxviii
It was now proposed to ^go on shore & see the xCave of
Eiggxxix — where the inhabitants of the isle were once suffocated by
McLeod — of
which deed some of the bones in the cavern now bear witness10 — but at the moment
we had decided a light breeze again rose — & we
[70] were determined
to avail ourselves of it — It carried us a short way & again slackened —
& in this way continued until we passed
the isle of
Muck — & then it failed entirely
— The Tide making against us, we were under the necessity of running into a small
creek called Carregadil Bay,11 & there anchoring —
Aston & I went on shore — and walked
across to Killichoan about 3 English miles —
the path is not very good, & in some part rather difficult to trace but a
man from the village of Achnahayxxx about half a mile from the coast, perceiving that were
strangers [sic], ran after us, & conducted us, until we came to a hill
from whence some of the houses in Killichoan
were to be seen — with the Sound of Mull
& the entrance into Tobermory on the
opposite side — Here he told us in broken us [sic], that he must go back —
we thanked him for his trouble & offered him money, which he received
reluctantly — saying that he did not follow us for that — he then asked us
[71] our names — having already enquired where we came from, &
whither we were going — we satisfied him, & bid him good evening — We soon
found the want of him for not thinking of our road we lost the track & came
to a boggy marsh — knowing however the bearings of the place — we soon reach
Killichoan — where there is a
considerable village with an excellent house for the manse in a very fine
situation — commanding a view of
the sound of
Mull, up as far as
the Bay of
Arros — & a clear view of
Ben
More which is seen almost from it's base –––––
At the public House, the people could not speak English, but fortunately we met
with a person at the door who kindly became our interpreter, & came in with
us — we had hot oaten cakes, with excellent cheese & butter — & capital
Farintosh Whiskey. — we now agreed with 2 men to row us across the Sound to Tobermory
[72] — six miles — for altho' the sea is only 3 miles across — yet as
T. lays to the Eastward of
Killichoan the remaining distance is made out in
coasting along the shore before you Turn
the Priest's
point into
the bay of
Tobermoryxxxi — which is a most excellent harbour — shut in from the Sea
by a long island — which leaves only one entrance not very broad — but quite
safe — The water is
^in general very deep — & the
Bay capable of holding any vessels. — The inn kept by
Hugh Mc.Leane is very comfortable
––––– At half past Ten our vessel came into the Bay & fired a signal for us
— They weighed anchor soon after 8 oClock the evening before — but the Tide made
against them — & it was calm so that they could not reach the harbour sooner
— She
^now hove to, & we went on board — the breeze
then blowing finely for us — we soon sailed down the
Sound of Mull, & at 4. P.M. once more anchor
ing in the
Bay of
Oban –––––
[73]
From
Oban to
Tynuilt
12. Miles —
It is 1 mile from Bunawe — Iron works
— Home to the memory of Nelson –––––