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[f.2r] 10 July 1800 left Edin^r on a Journey to the Hebrides — attended the funeral of the late Colonel James Eidingtoun of Gargunnock between noon & 1 ^oClock — He had been a man of an amiable & respectable character — the intimate friend and companion of Colonel Alex^r M^cGregor Murray of the Royal Clan Alpin regiment in the early part of their Lives. Col Eidingtoun had served in — [...]

proceded, after din^g at Stirling, to Lanrick.

16 — left Lanrick about noon — passed Cambusmore on the left the Seat of M^r Buchanan of Strathtyre who has had the merit of making

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[f.2v] great improvements and of creating a handsome annual Revenue from Lands that had been barren & uncultivated till he commenced his agricultural operations to which he has devoted the greater part of an useful Life since his return from the West Indies where he resided a short time in his youth.

Our road was through Callander of Mentieth a Village beautifully situated — near which at a bank called Roman Camp but which the Romans never formed, & probably never visited, resides the Hospitable Captain Fairfal a Gentleman of great urbanity of manners who made his fortune as the able Commander of an East Indiaman —

Visited the Minister D^r Robertson but missed him — M^r Buchanan of the Mains an old Gentleman of 78

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[f.3r] passed on an Island or small peninsula on the left — the Burying place of the Buchanans of Arnprior a respectable Family whose last male representative was forfeited for joining Prince Charles Edward in 1745 —

Leny — The Seat of this respectable Family (now the property of Captain Hamilton Buchanan descended by a female) is well situated facing the South on the right about a mile west of Callander

Through the pass of Leny, by a romantic Road, we went to Strathtyre leaving on the right two farm Houses well built the property of the antient & respectable Family of Stirling of Kier

In Strathtyre on the South side of the River there was a Tent for the accommodation of a Party of Ladies & Gentlemen whom we had the pleasure of admiring in the sportive

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[f.3v] dance upon the Green — The attractive power of the fair drew us across the River to join the cheerful groupe whom we found to consist of the proprietor M^r Buchanan & his ^oldest Son, with Several of his Daughters¹ — M^r Bruce of . . . .; his Lady a Daughter of Lord Rollos — a B^r of hers and Cap^t Fairfal — after paying our respects to this Joyous party we proceeded to [...]Killin — D^r. M^cNab of Bovain with whom we intended to have spent the night hav^gintimated that his House was painting & unfit for the reception of his Friends —*

17^th July early in the morn^g visited the Ruins of the House of Finlarig — over an aperture whether a door or window could not be distinguished was the Royal Arms without the Supporters — the date 1609 — the Letters F R² above and the Letters A R lower on the sides of the shield — The situation is beautifully picturesque commands an extensive View — Near the old House is the Burying place of the Family of Breadalbane — in a Vault w^th.in [within] a modern room w^th a [...] Roof — near this above the present Inn is the part of the River of Lochay in which Gregor mhac Dhonachy Ladasach is s^d to have been murdered as ment^d by Douglas — the Person who opened

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[f.4r] the Mausoleum had another edition of this story — that the Lairds of Glenlyon & Lawers had at the instigation of Duncan Dubh enticed Gregor by some fraud to an [...] interview in which they shewed a design to murder him — that he took one of their necks in each hand & was going to drown them in the Lochay when some person (an old woman) came behind him & murdered him — and that his Head was cut off on a hillock where the Gallows usually stood. — The same man informed one of my attendants that 18 of Duncan Dubhs Grandsons were buried there in one day, in rows of Sixes — they had been killed in a Battle w^th the MacGregors — at a La Coinna³ — or day of meeting appt^d [appointed] for action —

* In passing from Lochearn through Glenogle we observed on the left hand the Rocks w^h burst down from the mountain & left the sides covered with huge masses of the Rock — called Scàinach⁴ in the Galic — we were assured with great seriousness that whenever ^the death or change of the proprietor of the Estate of Edinample was always foretold by the fall of great fractions of the mountain and that the Relater himself had seen five proprietors who do [...] we were also informed that one proprietor had spent the Estate in Whisky without ever calling for more than a Gill — and that therefore the Gill is called an Edinample in that part of the country.

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[f.4v] At Killin we were informed that Duncan Dubh was “a great Witch” — that he had left a ^Leabher Derg red Book at Taymouth which no person ever ventured to open since his death — that the Rev^d M^r Stuart of Luss had offered to go to open it — but that his Father, the late minister at Killin, had prevented him from adventuring it. —

Ardeoinaig — There were two Brothers — Campbells the Senior of whom was proprietor of this Farm — Duncan instigated the younger to murder his B^rto become Lord himself — the younger objected that he w^d be hanged — but Duncan promised protection and an adjoining Farm of his own as Bonus for executing the task — The murder was committed — & on the report of it to Duncan by the perpetrator he made him fly the Country & seized the property —

Callain Naine — was a Son of Duncan Dubhs — he took a crech⁵ — plundered from the Braes of Doun across the Hills to Dundurn — His Piper played a Tune Tecil an Cro Dhonachy⁶ — which was understood by a McGregor of that Name in Dundurn — he let fly an arrow at Callain Naine & struck off the Gold Button

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[f.5r] from his Bonnet — Callain left the Spoil — and went to Bochaistal where he repeated the same depridation — he was followed to Larig Earn above the Kirktown of Balquhidder by the Buchanans from whom he had taken the Crech — one of them missed him w^th an arrow which he took up & in Derision descried it might be carried to the old women at Kilmahog (a small collection of Cot Houses near Callander & Bochastle) — another drew his Bow & struck Callain between the Eyes descring him to carry that — & he expired —

Killin — Upon enquiring the etimology of this word I was told it was so called because it was ^Keeil Eein the Burial place of Fion Mac Dhuil — and that there was an old man M^cIndoire at Suiche who could repeat much of the Poems of Ossian — and who had an extraordinary Relick of S^t Filan — The man was not at home: but we saw the Relick — which it appears has been in the keeping of these people at least 313 years.⁷ It appears to be the head of Pastoral Staff — has a representation of the [...] crucifiction on one end — my dear Son attempted a Sketch of it — & if the time had allowed w^d have succeeded pretty well.

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[f.5v] Innishewen^x — called on the venerable M^r M^cNab — a Hero of the days of old — His Daughter a fine little Girl — Found the old Gentleman witnessing Sheep Shearing — in a Fang the place enclosed in which the sheep are collected — to have the wool taken off — a Roman Catholic Family. My B^r.Col Alex’^s Godfather — which I did not know — or recollect —

[...]^Achlone — Called on M^r Campbell Lochdochart a Gentleman who has encreased the fortune of his Family by the improvement of his Estate — the most useful of all services rendered to a Country.

Port an Eilan — Called on M^r Campbell the Tacksman at this place who conducted us in his Boat to the old building on the Island f^m which the Farm has its name — s^d to have been Erected by Duncan Dubh — Sir Duncan Campbell — Its Insular situation made it strong in feudal times — the MacGregors are reported to have retaken it (for the Isle is reputed to have been theirs) by the stratagem — of setting rucks of Hay on the Ice & pushing these before them till they got close to the Rocks when they took the place by assault —

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[f.6r] Inverarderan Inspected the Plantations and the House — both much in want of more attention than has been shewn to them. mean to write to M^rs M^cGregor & M^r MacEwen respecting them.

Achriaoch — called on Cap^t Ronald Campbell who had been my School fellow at Callander — but he was f^m home — M^rs Campbell & his daughter rec^d [received] us with politeness & attention —

Chapel of St Filan — crossed from Achriaoch to visit the ruins of the seat of this celebrated Saint — there are scarcely any vistiges of it remaining — but superstion is still alive here — we saw there those stones in the midst of weeds & bell within the ruins where demented persons had been lately led under the persuasion of their Friends & of the lower order of people in General that they w^d. be cured of their insanity — which it is firmly believed often happens through the influence of the Saint —

Linn Eulain — St Filans pool — or Linn — a deep pool in the River to the westward of the Church about a mile — to this Pool in which the Holy Saint used to bath such people resort for Health through the efficacy of the holiness of the water not believing that the torrents that

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[f.6v] have passed through it for several hundred years has washed away the sanctity of the Bath of the S^t. — to this Pool the Inhabitants also bring their sick diseased Cattle, for cure by immersion in the water, or by being sprinkled with it — mak^g Offerings of rags or adding stones to the Cairns on the top of the Rock under which the Linn is situated

17^thTigh an Drum — Slept here — the Honb^lM^rs Murray & a young Lady travelling to Staffa also here this night —

Had a strong desire to go to Achmore, the residence of M^r John Campbell, of Ach, who had been a school companion, and whom I have not seen since that time — but I was prevented by the apprehension of incommod^g the Family as I heard there were some visitors already there —

18 Proceed^g through Glen Lochay passed close to Tigh an Drum the deserted ^lead mine on the left — fancied the country^mountains & the Glen remarkably Verdant — all under Sheep — very few Inhabitants — the view on coming in sight of Strath-urchay very grand & beautiful — Glenurchay is situated on the right hand in going out at Glen Lochay & lies north & South with an inclination to the east at the northern part of what we could see — On the left near the School House passed a Farm called Brackly which I observed was very shaded with rocks towards the South West — and to this circumstance I ascribed the Name Breachd-Sliamh — this was the residence & gave designation to the antient Family

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[f.7r] of MacGregor of Brachily —

At Dalmaly visited the Church yard in which there is a great number of Tombstones apparently of very great antiquity — Many of them exhibit sculpture of no despicable execution — Several tiers or layers, of stones said to have belonged, in the [...]^language ofM^r Peter M^cLennan schoolmaster, who & the Rev^d M^r M^cIntyre Jun^r shewed the church yard, to “a warlike people called M^cGregors” — (he knew not whom he was addressing) ^some of these Tombstones have a variety of flowers & ornaments cut upon them — at the edges — in the Center ^of each a Warriour with a Spear — or [...] possibly pastoral staff — two animals which I concieve to be Greyhounds facing each other with their Tails cocked up — on one there ^[...] of the MacGregor were the figures of two Horsemen mounted — the Sculpture very good — this is at the east end of the Church — at the West end I discovered by clearing away a little of the Earth & grass that had overgrown it, a Tree at the South west corner on ^the left hand close to the head of the Stones — very distinctly cut, standing erect — four of these stones we were informed had framedMacGregors Coffin: but had been detached & laid over four Graves where they now appear by some unknown person — One of them had a remarkably well executed Garter of flowers extending the ½ breath of the face of the stone — The Stone with the tree had a Bow & arrow ^nicely cut upon it near the foot. Of one of the Stones appertaining to a MacGregor Grave we were informed that a person of some other clan had inscribed a diff^t [different] name and we saw that several lines the last word whereof “spouse” had been cut away by order of a M^cGregor who w^d not admit of the Theft of the Gravestone

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[f.7v] of a Namesake — the word “spouse” had not been so compleatly obliterated so as not to be perceptable — the ^figures denoting the year, in which this was done were left unaltered “1798” at the foot of the Stone — [...] We were informed that that Country ^particularly on the path of the Urchay had of old belonged to the MacGregors — they had been stripped of it very long ago — and then their Tombstones were attempted to be robbed — We were shewn the Gallows hill used by the MacGregor on a hill on the North of the Urchay near the present manse where his Courts [...]^were in use to administer Justice — One of the Places where a residence is s^d to have been is called Stron Mialachan — the point of the Greyhound — this is a little distance from the manse on the North of the Urchay facing to the South —

Visited Castle Keulchuirn — the Inscription above the main doorway I ^E B 1695⁸ M^CC. The Antient part of this Building was a square Tower front^g the North — the west side & south were added in 1715 as we were informed by Angus M^cDonald who attended us by the Earl of that day to form Barracks for James the 8^ths(the pretender to the British Crown) Troops in case of need — the Earl having been inclined to favour the cause of the Stuart Family — This ^part of the Building had never been furnished — the whole was dismantled & the Timber Slate &c sold by auction between 25 & 30 years ago —

Over the Church door was a stone s^d to have been taken from the Castle with the inscription Siv [...] 1440 C.C.

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[f.8r] and over the door of the manse, I^EM M^CC without any Arms or Date — s^d also to have been taken from the Castle —

In Glenlochay met the Rev^d. D^r M^cIntyre & one of his Daughters going to Luss the minister of which is his Son In Law⁹ — I ment^d to him M^r Laings attack on the late M^r M^cPherson, whom M^r Laing charges with having forged the Poems published under the Name of Ossian — the D^r — he asserts a falsehood — I was in London a considerable time ago and had a conversation with M^r M^cPherson relative to that work — I had supposed that tho he had used considerable liberty in connecting parts & supplying deficits of words which might have been lost in the course of time or varied in the recitations. He said that he had done much less ^in that way than I (the D^r) could conceive — that he would shew me a greater collection of Galic Poetry than I could believe had existed — desired me to go to him any day for ten days to see that Collection and to see what he had done — but some circumstances intervened to prevent my going — this was my fault not his — M^r. MacPherson was as unequal to such a Task as I am — Badenoch is not a Country in which good Galic is spoken — there were men in this Country Nicol M^cNicol^in arimian & Donald More Ludir Macilenlan who could have repeated many of the poems of Ossian — M^r M^cPherson was at the manse of Glenurchay in the time of my predecessor M^r.M^cVean — and I believe M^r. Jo Hume was with him when in the course of making his collection. —

At the Manse resumed the subject with Rev^d M^r MacIntyre Jun^r — & the schoolmaster M^r Peter

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[f.8v] MacLelan — they treated the doubts of authenticity with the greatest contempt — M^r M^cLelan himself repeats parts of the Poems — which are generally received in his country as pure & Genuine —

18 reached Inveraray the seat of the Duke of argyle — the only Inn at the place under repair — could only get one Room for my son & myself — disturbed by an extraordinary noise after going to bed — which I ascertained in the morning was made by a Calender for Linnen — most improperly situated above a Bed room —

19 Col Graham, the Dukes Chamberlain to whom Lord Bannatyne had written called upon me and I understood the Duke w^d like well enough to see Company — went about 1^oClock to pay my respects — and promised to dine with him — at ^½ after four found his Grace returned from his airing — Sir W^m Hart w^t him — Lady Augusta Clavery & M^rs Campbell Carrick — the Duke very attentive — asked which of my Names I put first — said “— you are a Brother Chieftan of mine — I ans^d [answered] — a very inconsiderable one my Lord — Duke — Nay — you make a good figure now that you are all collected^united and not of diff^t Names — did any of them take the Name of Campbell? I ans^d that [...]

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[f.9r] had that I had seen an original Bond of Kinsmanship between one of the Auchinbreck Family & some MacGregors —

The Duke was remarkably pointed in his attentions and I left him with an increased veneration & respect for his Character — and without feeling towards him the slightest sense of resentment on acc^t of the innumerable cruelties which some of his Predecessors had committed ag^t [against] mine and the Clan in general — for which it w^d be most unjust & illiberal to attach any blame to any of the present Generations on either side. — The Castle a chaste build^g suited to the Scenery which is grand & magnificently beautiful

20 Proceeded by Portsonachan to breakfast — walked out to the House of M^r Campbell of Sonachan — whose B^rJohn had been a class fellow of mine — M^r Campbell was not at home — From thence crossed the ferry passed the Church of Lochchrianan where there was a very good appearance of people assembled — through a romantic tract of Lochnells woods of great extent passed in to Tigh an Uilt (the House at the Rivulet) near a Church where there was likewise an assemblage of very decent people

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[f.9v] and amongst them some M^cGregors — the Innkeeper is of that name — These men expressed satisfaction at seeing me & my Son — In the Church yard there a Tombstone of great antiquity with some ^rude sculpture — of which M^r Leyden Tutor to two young Hamburgers who are making an excursion as far as Staffa attempted to take a Sketch — These Boys & their Tutor walked from Inveraray to Portsonachan^not being able to procure horses — on the West side of the ferry I took the youngest into my Carriage — the other got a Horse at Kilchrainan — and I procured one from Dougal MacGregor at Tigh an Uilt for the Tutor —

Reached Oban in the Ev^g. & met Col M^cDonald Lyndal there — MacDougal younger of MacDougal came to Oban on hearing of my being there and my Son & I went to Dunolly with him [...]. Here we saw old MacDougal in his 88^th year — a venerable figure of fine appearance — confined to his Room — but his Intellect & his voice as whole as ever. He was angry at my hav^g gone to Inveraray — considering that one of the last Lairds of Macgregor had been treacherously murdered there by an Earl of Argyle — & considering the attrocities committed by the Family of Argyle ag^t [against] the MacGregors — I ^felt my excuse in this, — that it was impossible with any degree of Justice to harbour ill will ag^t [against] the present Generation, for the acts of their predecessors.

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[f.10r] The old Gentleman ment^d. the particulars of the above murder briefly in these words — a Sir Duncan Campbell of Auchinbreck was extremely intimate and [...]with the Laird of MacGregor — the Earl of Argyle wished to see MacGregor & imployed Sir Duncan to induce him to visit him at Inveraray on the most solemn assurances of good treatment & safety — They came to Inveraray and after they had been a day or two there Sir Dun^.s Servant having come to attend his master one morn^g on opening the window of the Room he started back in great agitation — Sir Dun. demanded the reason and was informed that MacGregor was murdered & hung upon a Tree in front of the Window — Sir Duncan who, as ^was much his Family in general, was a man of honour was extremely enraged & afflicted by this murder which he feared would stain his own Honour — & sought to revenge it — Campbell of Aberuchill was then the adviser & manager of the Earl — Sir Dun. endeavoured to get them together — but they went of without his [...] to Ed^r — Wither Sir Duncan followed - & having found them in a House in the Cowgate rushed into the Room with

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[f.10v] a pistol in one hand and a sword in the other — reproached argyle in the most severe manner for his barbarous treachery and believing he had been prompted to the diabolical act by Aberuchill told the Earl that if he did not immediately put that fellow to death he Sir Duncan would instantly blow out his the Earls brains — The Earl then very cooly thrust his sword or dirk into Aberuchills belly & killed him on the spot. — And that was all the ammends Sir Duncan got for the murder of MacGregor — no enquiry was made how aberuchil had died.” —

I recollect this old Gentleman’s having told me the same melancholy story in the very same words about 32 years ago — He says he had often heard his Father tell it. See * *ⁱ

This Family were forfeited in the days of Robert the Bruceag^t [against] whom they fought with the Cummings &c at the Battle of Dalriogh where he was defeated — the Macdougals had nearly taken him prisoner — hav^g caught his Mantle which with a large Silver Brach (or Buchile) was in possession of the Family of MacDougal the home of the present old mans Grandfather when the Family seat was burnt down & these articles lost with the effects that

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[f.11r] were in the House¹⁰ — This Family suffered much in consequence of the attempt of the Stuarts in 1715 — in 1737 the present Laird obt^d [obtained] some grant of the forfeiture through the Argyle of that day for 60,000 marks, — he had no more than £10 p^r an. clear for ten years after he married — he paid all off and added between 4 & 5000 £s worth of Lands to the remnant of the Estate to which he succeeded - & will leave his property without a shill^g of incumberance —

23^d July 1800¹¹ this morn^g the Lady of M^r Duncan MacDougal second son of this Family had a Son. Her husband is at present abroad in Ireland in Lord Breadalbans Fencible Reg^t —

— The old Laird paid us the Compliment of saying that if agreable his little newborn Grandson w^d be named Gregor in compliment to me and of course I made my acknowledgements for the intended honour

21^st July on the excursion to Eisdale the Cairn of Stones known by the Inhabitants past all memory under the name Carn Alpin was pointed out at the west ^or south end of Loch Feuchan — The tradition is that this Cairn was made to perpetuate the memory of remembrance of the embarking for Icolumkill of the first of the Alpinian Kings who was sent to be interred there —

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[f.11v] 22 July. With youngMacDougal younger — visited the Castle of Dunstaffnage the Seat of the Early Scottish Kings — The outer walls are entire as far up as the Curtain — It is built upon a Rock which bears indeed marks of fusion — the Castle was a square with a Bastion at each angle — In the center is s^d to have been a large House of which M^cDougal Jun^r. recollects vestages — M[...] N[...]b[...] who met us at this place said that the tradition was that this Castle was erected before that of GR that King Fergus built it — another said the tradition was that it had been built 500 years before the Christian era — “Coig ceud bliana mass danic Críoste er tallamb”¹² — It is evidently extremely antient — near it are the remains of a very old Chapel in which it is said some of the first Kings of Scotland were buried — the style of building is very old — Gothic — at the east end there is a modern addⁿ [addition] in which the MacInnishes (the descendants of Angus) the patronimic of the Campbells of Dunstaffnage were buried.

The Castle is considered a Royal

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[f.12r] House — MacDougal Doubts whether ever the Dunstaffnage Family got possession of the Castle as a property — The D. of argyle is hereditary Keeper.

Glenshira which makes a beautiful part of the Pleasure Ground of the D: of argyle is said to have belonged to the MacGregors —

23 proceded from MacDougals up the Sounds of Mull — & Morvern — on the ^right hand or north side passed an Charrig a flat Rock of some extent upon which one of the MacLeans of Duart put his Lady, the daughter of the argyle of the day, in order that she might be drowned: but she was saved by the accident of ^the Crew of some Vessel tak^g her up — MacLean is s^d to have gone to Visit Argyle to report the death of his wife — who was the first he saw at the head of her Brothers Table — Argyle^in dismissing him told him he ^himself would not punish him but to beware of his Brother — and it is s^d the B^r. did actually run him thro’ the Body on the Street at Edinburgh —

On the left passed Castle Duart the Chief Seat of the MacLean family in a commanding situation from which they had very extensive views in all directions —

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[f.12v] The Castle walls appear to be pretty entire and it is occupied by some persons amongst whom is one ^Soldiery Invalids —

The day being hazy the mist on the mountains of Mull displayed scenes of great variety and undescribable Sublimity — Some times the tops of the mountains were obscured by a dense opake mist & their bases clear. — In some places the drapery resembled the finest muslin moving in various fantastic festoons over the Sides and tops of the Hills — Ossians columns of Mist were exhibited in a thousand diff^t [different] Shapes and it is impossible for any person to have any competent Idea of the justness of his Imagery without visiting the Regions that suggested them: and they are so grand & magnificent that it is impossible that any Poet but Ossian could have found expression to have described them.

Passed Scallastale a beautifully ^situated Farm in Mull — and arrived at

Ard Torr Innish — M^r M^c.Gregor of Durrin resides here — his Family consists of his wife 5 Sons & 4 Daughters besides a Son abroad in the army — a very fine flock of Children the Young Ladies

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[f.13r] very genteel in their appearance & the Boys Very promising. The eldest Son is a Stout man — John —

Here was one of the principal Seats of the MacDonalds Kings of the Isles — my Maternal Ancestors — the Castle is on a promontory projecting into the Sound of Morvern and ^lies on the North Side of it front^g the South — The Situation commands an extensive view east & west to Duart & beyond the Castle of Aros which ^last also belonged to MacDonald — To this place, Ard torr-innish it is s^d an Embassador from one of the Edwards of England to the King of the Isles¹³ — The Castle has been a place of strength — the walls be^g about 10 Feet thick — the Center which is the most entire was an oblong square — on the north & south there are vestiges of circular walls — as outwards — that surrounded the Body of the place — the foundation of the Court Room is still visible a Room between 60 & 70 Feet long with smaller Rooms on each side at the South end — there are the vestiges of many buildings and of the Garden around the Castle — ^some persons who s^d they were skilled in architecture supposed this Build^g to have been of the 12^th Century.

It is said that there was an aqueduct from a Rivulet ^named ault more in contradistinction to many smaller — that precipitates over the Hill called GlaishVein on the north in a circular direction to the west & then South to the Castle about a mile — Some of the flowers that had been in the Garden grew since M^r Gregorson came to reside here — & there is still some Tansey in it —

— On the top ^or edge of Glaishvein^at the distance of a mile & half there is a flat spot called Lùid na Cùirt — where MacDonald is s^d to have held Criminal Courts — and just below is a perpendicular precipice over which felons capitally convicted are s^d to have ^sometimes been pricipitated,

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[f.13v] after the manner of the Romans — this precipice is named Garih na Cuirt — from its ^b^g so extremely perpendicular as to represent a Wall —

Near this spot, further to the East is a Cave called ^Uamb Breedan Cave — the Cave of S^t Bride in which that recluse, from whom the M^cBrides took their Name, is s^d to have resided — people of that Name still resort to see the Cave — which has for about a century past obt^d [obtained] the Name of Dugal Buies Cave from a freebooter of the Name of MacLachlan who occupied it for a considerable time —

A low point of land near that Cave is called Rûh an Riderih from the circumstance it is supposed of the Knights of Duart land^g there occasionally on their Visits to Morvern — & by the point ^on a small Rock or Island one of the ships that composed the Spanish Armada was lost — the commander of which was interred near the Point.

The M^cLeans are said to have got this part of Morvern by Marriage from the Lords of the Isles — and the Campbells wrested it from the M^cLeans by means which

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[f.14r] are reputed to have been the most fraudulent.

The Key of the Castle of ard torr innish^or of the Prison was found about 5 or 6 & twenty years ago in digging rubbish of one of the out Houses on the east side of the Castle by some of M^r Gregorsons workmen — He says it was 16 or 18 Inches long and as thick as his wrist — M^rs Gregorson and some others of the Family saw it — But the workman in the absence of M^r Gregorson on a fish^g party went ^clandestinly the same night to the Smithdy and used the Key for mend^g the points of his [...]axes & other Tools which of course displeased M^r Gregorson very much and the Duke of argyle is s^d to have been exceedingly vexed at this circumstance.

24 July M^r Gregorson sent a Boat with a L^r [Letter] — for the Rev^d. M^r M^cNicol Minister of Lismore whom I was very desirous to see & converse with regarding the Poems of Ossian with which he was acquainted long before any of them were translated — He was unluckily from home at Port Appin on official duty & could not come — M^r Gregorson sent me his answer to the note that was sent to him — * see near the end of this Book — ⁱⁱ

25 Left Ardtorrinnish — carried on board a man of the Name of Cameron who was reported to know some of the History of the Fingalians: but tho’ there were some gleamings of it to be discovered in two tales or three he told it was evident that he knew little of the genuine productions of Ossian — he named several of the Chiefs & of the Ladies properly

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[f.14v] the stories he had were manifestly Irish legends perfectly distinct from the Highland traditions relative to the Ffions —

On my objecting to the possibility of the Lochlanites of whom he spoke as coming to Scotland & of Fingals going to Lochlan for ‘want of Vessels fit for the purpose ^hav^g had only wicker Boats covered w^t Hides he said that they had vessels constructed of Oak called Luinis fad¹⁵ Long shipping with many oars in a side he in particular ment^d [mentioned] 16 oar Boats which he said would carry a considerable number of men —

Finari — dined at the Rev^d M^cLeods — this place is said to have been a summer quarter or hunt^g resort of Fingals — There is a Rock covered with soil ^form^g a circular mound about 30 paces in diameter called Dun Fin — Fingals mound — there is a distinct vestige of the foundation of a wall which went round the verge of this Rock. — the present ministers predecessor took down the remains of a wall 3 f. high to build other Houses w^t it — The prospect from this mound is extremely extensive and romantic — Dunolly, Duart, Aros & & may be seen from it — and close to it in the west is a deep Glen ^fringed with wood — through which a torrent runs constantly — rendering the scene extremely worth of being called Shalla Mah

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[f.15r] or the pleasant ViewASelma of Ossian of which it is M^r M^cLeods opinion Fingal had many — He of course treats with derision the doubts of the authenticity of Ossians Poems. —

Proceded to Drimnin where I was astonished to find a group of elegant young Ladies.

Isobel Chaum — Cameron — this woman died four or five years ago aged 126 or 127. She remembered the Massacre of Glenco perfectly — had two Sons fit to bear arms in 1715, and lived in the woods with them to prevent their being compelled to served that year in the army. She walked about the Country ‘till within a few months of her decease. resided chiefly in the Parish of [...] in Morvernargyleshire^passed Aros in Mull an old Castle belong^d to the M^cDonalds Afterwards to the M^cLeans & now to the D. of Argyle — his Factor M^r Maxwell resides there in a modern House —

26 Visited Tobermory — ^Passed Caistal nan Coin — s^d to have also belonged to the M^cD^ds [M^cDonalds] on the morvern side — where they used to keep their Dogs — saw the Co^y [Company] of Volunteers there inspected by Major B[...] of the 73 who recollected me in India.

Conversed with several of the settlers in the Village of Tobermory estab^d by the Society for British Fisheries.

They stated that Leases for 99 y^rs of the site of their Houses & Gardens ^& of 30 years for their crofts of 5 acres to each person had been promised but not yet given to them

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[f.15v] that according to the Regulations for establishing the Settlement each Settler was to have one Cows grass but that the number of 16 ^who had built Houses on the faith of that promise have not been allowed any Grass for Cows which they regarded as a very severe hardship ^as they cannot get any for the Tenants in the Country

Those who have Grass pay 5/ for a Cows Grass — 2/6 for Peat moss Licence and 1^d or 2^d p^r foot for the ground occupied by their Houses & Gardens in the 2^d & 3^d choice of situations — 6^s p^r foot in the front row in which slated Houses only are allowed to be erected — argyles Street — the next is Braidalbane Street — a House 30 Feet long by 14 Broad ^& 7½ high thatched cost £30 — uncertain whether the interior of the walls were limed or only the two outer faces pinned w^t it —

In the Evening four of the Settlers came to Drimnen to call upon me and to represent the grievances under which they allege they are respect^g not only their Cows Grass but the crofts of 5 acres each — They shewed me a L^r [Letter] — which had been written to them by the Sec^y of the Society in answer to a complaint on this Subject. of which a copy had been sent to M^r Maxwell the Societies agent & Factor to the Duke from whom I saw a L^r [Letter] adress^d to these men, on the subject of their Complaint — imputing that they had not been candid in their Statements — that the extra ground was intermediatly occupied by other Settlers between Terms — that he could not assize their lots like a Surveyor sh^d. measure them off & that he had applied to one — that the Society meant to direct the attention of the Settlers to commerce & not to Farming — upon the whole substance of this L^r. [Letter] it occurred to me that the men had ground of complaint ag^t the Society or their agent. as they have not yet rec^d [received] their lots tho’ the Surveyor has been there — These men alleged that they had offered to accept of their lots of 5 acres without insisting for the present for the Cows grass but that they had been refused unless they w^d sign declarations that they either had no right or that they relinquished their right to Cows grass which they

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[f.16r] declined to do. I was sorry these men had not ment^d [mentioned] these particulars to me when I was on the spot at Tobermory as I could have conversed with M^r. Maxwell regard^g them

observed that the want of a proper Road ^from the Shore up to the Hills must greatly impede the operations of the Settlers — and it appears to me that the first improvement that ought to be attempted is the throwing a small arch over a rill of water at the north end of the terrace to make the access to the Town tollerably easy — a road up to the Village slanting south first & then northwards so as to give access to wheel carriages — 3 a pier for the accommodation of Vessels in time of bad weather and for facilitating shipping & unshipping of articles — 4^th the removal by force of powder of some rocks that are dry at low water in the narrow passage between the Isle of Calimb & Drumfin which w^d give the advantage of access to the Port to the Eastward or towards the Sound of Mull.

The Villagers informed me that the Island of Calish belongs to the Dukes of Argyle which from its position in the mouth of the Harbour it is highly necessary sh^d be acquired by the Society — it is s^d to be under lease to the Chamberlain of Tiree — for about £10 — the Settlers said they w^d pay them that rent rather than not have it.

Respect^g the grass for their cows I observed to him that the Innkeeper could not accommodate the public without the means of providing travellers with provisions which rendered a suitable extent of ground indispensable for him — they admitted this but said that he had more than w^d answer that purpose —

27^th In the morn^grec^d [received] a Memorand^m. from these Settlers in a Letter which they sent by the master of the Cutter — Left Drimnen where I was delighted with the contentment of M^rs M^cLean & the elegance of the young Ladies and reached Coll in the Ev^g

^On mentioning to M^rs M^cLean that there was a Book published just before I left Ed^r to prove Ossians poems to have been a forgery of M^cPhersons she mildly ans^d — “But that will not be listened to —”*ⁱⁱⁱ

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[f.16v] 28 July — Coll. We intended to have proceeded to Staffa direct but were obliged to make for Coll to prevent our retrograding by the force of the Tide — anchored in Loch Uirn which from its ruggedness merits the Name of the infernal Loch — we were rowed in the yact to the House of Coll and Loch ^a Chaistle, from an old Square tower stand^g there — built at too remote a period for their History — The Family mansion is comfortable and it is occupied by an amicable group of Ladies — and an intelligent spirited Landlord — Who has made an excellent Garden with a Hot House producing some good fruit.¹⁶

His side table was ornamented with a Bust of M^r Fox —

28 — We proceeded to Staffa and had the good fortune of a remarkably fine day for the purpose — the magnificence of this specimen of Natural Architecture¹⁷ can only^not be described by the most able delineator — It is an instance of its kind of the sublimity of the works of Nature over that of Art and a proof how vain it is in man to aim at equalling the creative powers of the Almighty Architect — It is evidently volcanic — and is a grand proof of the power of that Being who produced such symmetry from confusion — Fingals Cave is inimitably grand the roof composed of innumerable ^five sided prisms of various dimensions — The

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[f.17r] Pillars of various sizes & in various directions represent on a colossal scale the cristilization of a mountain of Saltpetre —

In the Cave of called the Cormorants' the young GentⁿColl Son — M^r Lachlan M^cLean & my own Son with several of the Boats crew attempted to beat down with stones from the crevices young Cormorants — and I could not help reflecting at this instant how vicious & cruel the nature of Man is and how ungovernable without the strongest possible Bridle of Control! — and how despicable it was in so many beings counting themselves rational to assault the lives of these unoffend^g & unresisting Birds — It was with difficulty I could get them off — & I was glad they had not succeeded in killing any of the Birds.

There are three Deer on this Island which has a good sward —

We sail the Boat to take up MacQuary of Ulva the representative of the Antient Branch of the Alpinian Race who took that Name — who hav^g involved the Family Estate lost it — he now resides in a very small Isle, near Staffa & Ulva called ICollonsay which the part paid Creditors are in the act of wrest^g from the old man in the 83^d year of his age — He went with us to Ic Colum Kill this Ev^g — ^upon ment^g to him that there was a Book recently published which was intended to prove that Ossians Poems were a forgery by M^cPherson he said if there was such a Book it shd be burnt by the Common Hangman.

29^th— Visited Port an Churrich where S^t Colum is s^d to have landed f^m.Ireland in a Vessel of about 60 foot long the dimensions of which are s^d to be represented

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[f.17v] by some vestiges of a Building of the exact size that was erected to perpetuate the event — this small Bay is situat^d at the Southern extremity of the Island —

We Visited the Nunnery — Tombs & Cathedral after our return — the Marble altar of which there was a part in the Chapel when I was here about 32 years ago is taken away — the Tombs of the Kings are covered with earth & weeds so as to be totally undistinguishable and upon the whole this celebrated nursery of Religion and the repository of all that was Great & Royal in the Land is now in the most miserable state to which neglect and pollution can bring it — affords an awful example of the insignificance of human grandeur — and at the same time a lamentable instance of the degeneracy of the age in which such shameful prostitution of things sacred & great is tollerated. It w^d have become the Royal Family to have taken care that the apses of their predecessors were undisturbed and, for the sake of influencing the living, it would have been wise to have preserved the reverence & respect for the ashes of Kings of other times instead of having their Tombs even more neglected than those of the Beggars of the Country — who have some relatives on the spot that pay some attention to their places of rest.

Returned to Coll that Ev^g

30^th Left Col for Barra — about noon — were all night at Sea — had reached Barra on the 31 before dinner after passing an uncomfortable night at Sea & being very sea sick.

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[f.18r] Barra — 1^st Aug^t Wrote to M^r M^cDonald of ValayLord MacDonalds Chamberlain in North Uist intend^g my arrival here on my way to visit Lord M^cDonalds Estate, as one of his Commissioners & desiring M^r. M^cDonald to meet me at Benbecula on the 4^th instant.

Wrote a note to M^r. Gillespie the Architect employed by Lord M^cDonalds Commissioners to carry on public Buildings &c in Skye to meet me at Lochmaddy in North Uist w^tout delay — I wish to have him with me when examin^g the intended Site of a Village at Lochmaddy.

Wrote a note to my Cousin Miss Peggy M^cDonald Clanranald who resides in South Uist, notifying her I w^d. call soon.

^KelpBarra informs me in answer to questions relative to Kelp — that his has sold at a higher price than that of any other proprietor unless Perhaps the Kelp of Ulva sold about the same price — ^G13 p^r Ton — That he ascribes the diff^ce [difference] of quality much to the circumstance of his making but a small quantity compared to Lord M^cDonald & being able to attend to it himself. Next he puts as much in a Kiln as makes about 1½ Ton of Kelp — great care sh^d be taken to preserve it in as great pieces as possible — he recommends for that reason that no Vessel above 80 Tons burden be employed as the breaking on throwing it into the holds of deep vessels is very injurious to the sales — that he finds small cargoes have always sold better than large because there may be more competitors — & on acc^t of the breakup being less — Insurance 1½£ p^r from 10/ to 21/ p^r Ton — the Earlier the manufacture is begun the better — & also the sooner dispatched — Early in

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[f.18v] May is the best time to begin & the Vessels sh^d be engaged in due season to carry it away soon after it is made — Rain injures the Weed — as well as the Kelp — manufacture costs on an average something between. 2G^s & 2G^s½ p^r Ton. — he pays 7£ p ^ton for making some in very difficult situations where none at all c^d be made but for such encouragement — Sand very injurious to Kelp — He sometimes throws very bad Kelp into the Sea — the Labourers losing their fare — but oftener returns it on their hands & they fuze it over again & clean it —

The present House of Barra is modern & was built by the Laird who now occupys it — the Family resided till this house was built in the old Castle of Kiesh on an insulated Rock — era of build^g not known — The present Laird saw a Genealogical Tree of the Family about 35 years ago which carried the descent back to Noah — It was borrowed by the present Clanronalds Grand father & has never been recovered — it was partly in Galic and partly in English — The Estate of Boisdale in South Uist belonged to the Family of Barray — a Brother of one of the Lairds murdered the Crew of a Vessel which had been ship wrecked — Gov^t desired Barray to apprehend him which not chusing to do himself he employed the M^cDonald of the time to seize him On promise of the Lands in question for Seven years: but at the expiration of that period the Lands

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[f.19r] were withheld by force — are included still in Barrays Charters — but prescription has run in favour of the MacDonalds by possession — M^cNiel Brother was apprehended & the tradition is that he was put into a Barrel & thrown over the Rocks of the Castle of Ed^r where there is Rock still called M^cNiels.

^Barra & M^r M^cLeanCap^t Scott hanged a man of the name of M^Lean considered one of the handsomest men in the Highlands at Barra without any form of trial — made him stand on a creel & be tied to the roof of the House & the Creel to be then pushed away from under his feet — this was done in the presence of the mother of the person murdered — The man was found dress^d. in the Highland Garb — & had been at the Battle of Culloden —

^M^cNiel The same Scott whipped Lochiels Gardner to death in order to oblige him to confess where he & anoth^r man had hidden the plate.

This Scott hanged three men on the same occassion without any form of trial ^because they w^d not give informⁿ ab^t the Princethat they had seen — He put powder between the toes & fingers of one MacEachan for three successive days & blew it up in order to compell him to betray the Prince. He burnt the habitations of the Tenantry in Lochaber and particularly ^did not spare those of the poor.

^BarraySir Alex^r MacDonald & MacLeod sent MacDonald of Boisdale Father of the Boisdalenow a Corps to the Prince on his arrival at [...] to notify to him that as he had come without the Army which he had promised to bring it w^d be impossible to succeed

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[f.19v] in the attempt to recover the Crown; advised him by all means to return to France, and acquainted him ^that as he had come without Forces they could not engage to join him in such a desperate and hopeless undertaking — The Prince upon hearing this intelligence sailed to Arasaig. This is a strong exculpatory circumstance in favour of the above four Gentlemen —

Barray
3 Aug^t
1800} From Barray House is seen an old Building, on a Rock in the Sea connected with a small Island ^from some weaver supposed to have been interred there called Caistal a mhrebitar — supposed to have been some fish out-station — near this the Prince anchored: and the first British land he set his foot on was the neighbouring Isle of Eiriskay belonging to Boisdaleclose to the s^d Rock on which the Castle is — He slept on a Bed of the tops of Heather at Otirmore - the Tenant understand^g he was a great man but not know^g whom, made a fire of the heather binding that kept the thatch on his House — and when he shewed the Bed which he had prepared said that is a Bed a Prince might sleep on — not suspect^g the Prince was the person addressed. It was at this place Boisdale

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[f.20r] waited on the Prince with the message from Sir Alex M^cDonald and MacLeod. Boisdale never took any part in in 1745 —

Lady Grange who was confined in S^t Kilda about the 1745 — died at Trumpan in Skye.

D^r John M^cLean of^inTroternish who was factor for the Family of M^cDonald had the Aphorisms of Hippocrates in Galic — into which they had been translated by the Ollamh Iilich, predecessor of the Beatons of Sky, who was Physician to M^cDonaldd of the Isles — D^r Lachlan M^cLean at [...] is the son of the s^d D^rJohn.

4 Aug^t 1800 — Visited two circles of stones which the Rev^d M^rMacQueen & Barray consider druidical but which are called by the Sielgan Natives Sornoch Coir Ein — or the supporters of Fingals Caldron — Of one of the Circles only one Stone remains in its place — several others appeared evidently to have been very recently thrown down — the second we visited is intire and the diameter of the Circle is about 12 or 14 foot — There was the appearance of some Building close to them — the stones resembling either the foundation of some ancient building or Stones placed at the head of Graves —

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[f.20v] Indeed the stones of the circle are so little above ground that they may possibly have been the foundation or part of the Wall of some very ancient Building — of so remote a period that all tradition is lost and the fabulous Idea of them hav^g here a fire place adopted — the two Circles are within two Gun shots of each other & absurdity of hav^g Cauldrons large enough to set on such large circles & of having two of them so close together does not strike the Natives.

The Island of Barra & the smaller Islands connected with it contain about 2000 Souls — the people are, without any exception but Barray & Vatersays Families, of the Roman Catholic persuasion; & in the deepest ignorance. There was an Effigy of S^t. Barr in existence during the incumbency of the Rev^d. D^r. John M^cPherson who was some time Minister of the Gospel here — It is reputed that he was a man of much humour — that a Country fellow ^hav^g applied to him for Tobacco the the D^r. refused to give him any — but in a jocular manner said if he would castrate S^t. Barr he would give him a pound of Tobacco — the fellow came several times to ask Tobacco & not finding that he could get any at last brought to the D^r. that part of the Statue which he had jocosely demanded and rec^d his Tobacco — The Saint has since vanished entirely some hav^g taken one part & some others as precious relicks. He is s^d to be in some old Calenders tho' not the Roman one —

The inhabitants of this Island were Protestants after the reformation — but as there was no clergyman at

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[f.21r] that time nearer than Harris this people were left without spiritual Pastors and upon the establishment of Episcopacy in Ireland after the Restoration a number of Priests flocked to the Western Isles & owing to the scarcity of Clergymen of the Established Kirk found it the easier to convert the Inhabitants to the Church of Rome and this has been so efficiently done in this Island that there are not 40 Protestants in it and those consist of the two Families ment^d [mentioned] with Servants brought from other parts who are only temporary residents — the whole as M^r M^cQueen the Minister says not exceed^g 40 — as above ment^d.

Bishop Chisolm is reputed to be a Bigot in the extreme — and to have made an Instrument of a Priest, Allan MacDonald, son of Duchamus, to pervert the minds of the Inhabitants of this Island who made such demands and shewed such democratic dispositions lately that Barray was oblig^d to banish some of them from the Island by dispossessing about a dozen of the most turbulent & this Priest has also been removed from the Island — & another put in his place of whom better conduct is expected.

In Barray — In the South end of South Uist — the Island of Cannay — In Orasay — MoidartKnoidart & Lochaber there are from 12 to 12 [sic] Roman catholics. —

This day after our ride Barray informed me that his Gardner who is a Papist but his wife a Protestant was to have his Child christened by the Presbyterian Minister as the Priests had put off the christening about two years on acc^t of the Father hav^g married a Heretic, & the Parents not

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[f.21v] choosing to leave their Child any longer unchristened — and that the Father wished me to allow my name to be given to the Child — In complement to Barray I of course agreed — The Laird & Lady their Son & Daughter with the McNiels Tutor & my Son proceeded to the Gardners House with the Parson — When the Name to be given the Child the Father ans^dSir John Murray MacGregor — which forced us all to ^smile. — The Boy was named John MacGregor — his Surname is MacSween —

In the after noon Niel M^cNielresidenter at[...] who was supposed to know some of the Poems of Ossian attended — He is 79 years old — was a Soldier with Barrays Father in the war of 1756 — is a brisk old man having before dining walked 7 miles over bad ground (for there is no Road on the Island) excep^g a very rough & extremely bad Bridle path — to come to us — and he took leave in the Ev^g return home but it is supposed he w^d. have remained in some of the Houses at the Village of KilBarr. —

This man repeated an edition of the death of Oscar — which he informed us he had learnt before he went first abroad, when he knew many more of the Poems of Ossian than he now recollects. — Some of the lines are verbatim as in Smiths collection — but the General purport agreed with that part of M^cPhersons^translation ofTemora in which Oscars death is ment^d18 — upon being told that such translations had been made — He discovered that the had never heard of that circumstance nor even of the name of M^r Ja^{s MacPherson} tho he had known

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[f.22r] M^r John MacPherson when Minister here — "and an excellent man he was. — he had a Son John a Great man" — Being told that there were doubts of the authenticity of Ossian & that the Poems were said to have been forged by M^r Ja^s M^cPherson he said — hut hut, ha nel fockel feerin an shin — Shame Shame there is not a word of truth in that — Ossian Mai Ein, the last of the Fions, was the Poet who made them — He ment^d the names of many of the Warriours of that day — the wife of Fingal was daughter of Cormac, Rè Erin — many old men in the days of my youth could repeat ^great part of them — particularly MacRuory Mhore ^Morriston who was then very old His Son w^d have been now 70 years if he had lived. — Niel says he heard that [...]un (ale) was made of the Tops of the Heather — & that the Ancient Highlanders buried vessels with whey to ferment it into an ^intoxicat^g spirit.

Rory MacNiel of Barray Esq^r the Rev^d M^r Edmund MacQueen Minister of the Parish — M^r Taylor Tutor to Barray's Son — Sir John MacGregor Murray & M^r John Evan John were present during the time Niel Niel was repeating the Stories & the verses he knew of Ossian — & M^rs M^cNiel also for a considerable part of the time. M^r Evan was the only person present who could not understand the Galic —

Niel MacNiel mentioned that the M^cNiels of whome he gave a long Genealogical acc^t came from Spain — the M^cDonalds also & Camerons — the Campbells are from Dermid o'Dhuin — that the Ailpeinich were the first of the Clans — & that they were

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[f.22v] from Lochlan — from which country he derived the origin of Several other Clans. — The most extraordinary Genealogical anecdote he ment^d was that S^t Patrick was married to a daughter of Ossian & that his patronimic was Paric mhac Alpin mich Riagh Lochlan.

In inumerating the Forces that were in Ireland when Oscar was killed he expressly mentioned a Body of 1500 from Albinpior — that oscar killed the 8 nearest relatives of Cairbar Riogh — besides that 120 other relations of that Kings were slain in the action. He mentioned that the Fingalian Family had many places of residence in Scotland — that Cuchullin rested at Dunskiach in Sky.

He & Barray mentioned that a man in Armour, on Horseback, was found, not many years ago, interred in the Isle of [...] belonging to Barray: and many articles of Horn ^furniture

Barray Head is the westermost point of Scotland. —

Barr. Iil
5^th Aug^t} Went to the Isle Meal donich Which is Barrays Deer Forest to shoot Deer — the Island is high and I had an extensive view of the neighbouring Isles inclosed under the Gen^l name and forms the property of Barray — each of which has however a distinct name — there are many of them — & of the whole 5 Inhabited.

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[f.23r] Met M^r Neil Vatersay who is married to a Sister of Barrays & resides on the Isle of Vatersay within 3 miles of Meal donich — He & I killed each a Deer. —

M^r MacQueen mentions Ruory Mac Cuian in Tighary in North Uist — and Donald M^cDonald in Fromiscary — as persons likely to be able to repeat some parts of Ossians Poems.

6 Aug^tBarray — remained with the Hospitable & kind Friends Barra & his Lady — took down through the medium of the Rev^d M^r MacQueenNiel MacNiels edition of Oscars death — clearly distinguishing Oscar to have ^been a Caledonian — though the edition is not pure — yet there is enough of the original design of the poem to satisfy any unbiased person who knows any thing of Galic of the Authenticity of that historical fact as related in the reading, which M^r M^cPherson had collected

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[f.23v] 6^th Aug^t — Barra, after taking leave of M^rs M^c Neil & the Children, conveyed us to Kilbride — the seat of M^r M^cDonald of Boisdale — for whose funeral ^to take place to day I waited at Barray since last Friday — Here I met Col M^cDonald now Boisdale his B^rM^r Ronald M^cDonald advocate M^r MacDonald of Valey & a number of other Gentlemen who came to attend on this mournful occasion — also M^rs M^cKenzie Daughter of the late D^rPeter MacLean of Glasgow & afterwards of Mull with whom I was acquainted before I went to India in 1769/70 — also my Cousin Miss Peggy MacDonald Daughter of Clanronald grand aunt of the present Mins^r —

Barray — 6 Aug^t — Infusion of Shalavag or Sorrel with the Bark of the Bramble said to make a light Blue dye — a woman of this Country habited in cloth so dyed —

Bramble Bark & copperas make Brown — now used on the Main Land.

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[f.24r] Vatersay & Barray informed me that the Skeleton of a Horseman & Horse were found in Vatersay about 15-or 16 years ago — That 2 dozen of square Brass Buttons were found near or with the man the Buttons had red paint or enamel across at right angles — These were sent to Boisdale — The Horseman is supposed to have been an Islander. According to tradition a quarrel arose between a Shipmaster of the name of John Allan & a Brother of the Laird of Barra in consequence of their dogs having fought — The owner of the vanquished dog ^which was killed put his dirk into the dog that killed it —& the Masters came to blows in which the Lairds Brother put the Stranger to death — he was an Irishman — a Brother who was of the party made his escape to the Vessel & came afterwards with an armed party to revenge the murder of his Brother — the Islanders met them and a bloody battle was fought — the result of which is s^d to have been that not one of the Irish escaped — The greatest slaughter appears from the number of Graves to have been close to the shore when the Irish were retreating — This action is supposed to have been subsequent to christianity because many ^glass Beads of diff^t colours were found where the Horsemans skeleton was discovered by the drifting of the Sand Banks — ^near another human Skeleton A spear ^was found — It appears to have been broken in the groin of the man And a small piece of the ^Iron point was in the Bone — The staff was near but decayed — the crown of the Helmet was on the Head of the Skeleton — and part of the Armour that fitted the ^Haunch still remained — the Helmet & armour was of Brass. — A Silver pin of about Six Inches long with a ring through one end — such as were used to fix the plaids & mantles of old was also found — Dealg Feuntrain¹⁹ — But — no armour ^was found on the Horseman

A considerable number of Coins were found in the year 1799 at Vatersay^most of them in a Cows Horn — Barray

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[f.24v] was given one Six of them — Vatersay saw the Skeletons & other articles above ment^d — & sent the Coins to Barra when found —

The Castle in which the Barra Family resided is supposed to have been erected by Rory Breachd in the time of James the 4^th

Rory Tartar (turbulent or noisy) was coeval with Ja^s the 6^th it is believed — He committed hostility on some ^English Vessels; ofQueen Elizabeth in the neighbouring Seas & the Queen remonstrated to the Scotch King in such manner that through the agency of SeaforthBarra was apprehended & carried to Ed^r where it is reputed he was questioned by the King. for showing hostility to Q.E. to which Barray ans^d is not that the woman who struck off your mothers Head? — I conceived I was in the discharge of my duty. He escaped with his Life but the Superiority of his Estate is s^d to have been granted to Seaforth — the M^cDonald Family now have it. —This is slightly inaccurate. Roderick Mackenzie of Coigeach acquired this superiority in around 1609. He passed it to his son and heir John Mackenzie of Tarbet. They leased this or farmed it out to the MacDonalds of Sleat, the Mackenzies retaining this superiority until at least the nineteenth century. (AMC).

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[f.25r] Kilbride or Boisdale 7^th Aug^t 1800 — This day the funeral of MacDonald of Boisdale Esq^r for which I have waited a week, took place — There were between 12 & thirteen hundred persons present including four Companies of Volunteers — The procession by accident I suppose was in the form of a cross — three Companies of Volunteers in front — The great Body of Tenantry or Country people — the Corpse attended by the considerable numbers of Gentlemen Clergy & principal Tacksmen of the neighbouring Islands of BarraNorth UistCanna &^c &^c^on foot — then foll^d. [followed] a company of Volunteers Boisdales Carriage, Gentⁿ on Horse back Servants &^c and on each side of the Corpse a Body of women projecting to right & left which gave the figure of the cross — at different parts Bodies of Women were found loudly lamenting the deceast — & singing his praises — and it was impossible for any person of feeling, conversant in Galic, not to be deeply affected by their afflictions — at short Intervals there were parties of Volunteers who relieved each other at the palls — which the Gentlemen carried to some distance from the House — & afterwards resumed near the Burying Chapel — Both before the departure from the House & after the internment the people sat down in lines & were served with Bread & Cheese & Whisky — and the Gentⁿ under cover — The man who chiefly acted as Gravedigger M^cLellan was extremely affected and shed tears most abundantly ^during the whole time of the interment. He was the only Gravedigger I ever saw so affected — such is the savageness that is peculiar to the Highlanders — whom M^r Laing treats as if they had never emerged from Barbarism — MacLellan has feelings that such men know not — after the Interment the Gentⁿ repaired to Boisdale House to dinner & the Glass was circulated till near Midnight — This is a part of the High^d Custom of the propriety of which I am doubtful — It

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[f.25v] has certainly for the time the effect of [...]^counteracting the sorrow — but it is a query whether that is or is not a desirable object — Whether it is not best to allow the soul to be melted — the mind of man to be humbled by leaving him to reflections of a serious & awful cast — or to seek to drive them suddenly away in this manner —

At Dinner the Rev^d M^r Munro Minister of [...] told me that Sir James Foulis had applied to him in a very earnest manner for some part of the Poem of Oithona²⁰ of which he supplied him with an edition — that Sir James express^d. obligations but not the least hint of scepticism respecting the authenticity of Ossians poems on the contrary that he appeared to be fully satisfied of their originality — on my ment^g the recent attack²¹ on M^cPherson as the forger of the Poems published by him as translations of OssianM^r Munro exclaimed ^chan nel shin ^ach smerr na breigah — agus bu dāna amfer a rin i san aige ^ha bhāish —.²²

The Rev^d M^r[...] Mac Queen Minister of [...] who sat between us coincided with M^r Munros last observation — Said he had seen in the possession of D^rJo M^cLean in Troternishthe aphorisms of Hippocrates in Galic transcribed by the Ollah Iilich — Physician to Macdonald (of Kintyre) in the last page of which was written Mīleh Biannachd er [...] MacChonicher²³

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[f.26r] bag dhosa an clar so gu scribhat" which Shows that he only copied it — The Olla Iilich is supposed to have lived about 200 years ago — but how long before that Aphorisms had been renderd into Galic must be uncertain — M^r MacQueen said that he informed Sir James Foulis of the existence of this Book — and that he imagines Sir James got it f^m.D^r. M^cLean as that Gentleman some time afterwards told M^rM^cQueen that he had Sent the Book to Edin^r —

I have not yet met with any individual ^x Highlander. Man or woman of The many with whom I have conversed who doubts the authenticity of the Poems of Ossian or who does not consider the scepticism on this head as very absurd.

The Rev^d M^r. Allan M^cQueen^& several other Gentlⁿ informed me — that M^r Jas M^Pherson in the course of his circuit in search of the Poems of Ossian came to Loch maddy and travelled from thence across the ^Moorland part of the Country in order to reach Benbecula where Macodrum a celebrated Bard then resided and happening to go into a Shealing to ask for a drink questioned the Landlord if he knew Macodrum to which he ans^d that he was intimately acquainted with him. — Where is he? — at hand — — "bhel dad agid fein a Dhuina Choir
"er na feintibh — Cha nel,

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[f.26v] agus cha bear leom gun bhitre chuinse jun a chaile na coirichin nach bhurrin ni feitin bhuohe. bhel dad agid ir na feintibh means — "do the Fions owe you any thing" — whereas M^r M^cPherson if he had been a better Gallician would have put the question whether the man knew any part of the History of the Fions or^related in the Poems of Ossian — M^cOdrum being a ^man of humour — played upon M^cPhersons bad Galic; and answered that the Fions owed him nothing and that he was not sorry for it, as the obligations hav^g been lost he could not recover any thing — This offended M^cPherson so much that he did not converse more with Macodrum — which he afterwards said he regretted and was owing to his not knowing the man he had been conversing with was Macodrum himself — MacPherson is said to have mentioned this Anecdote to Sir James Macdonald at Edin^r — This is an important fact and it is generally known in this Country — the Long Island, because it establishes that M^cPherson was but an indifferent Galic Scholar & spoke it imperfectly when he began to Collect the Poems of Ossian. M^r M^cPherson did not go to South Uist nor to any of the Islands to the South of North Uist —

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[f.27r] M^r Allan MacQueen heard the preceding circumstance related by Macodrum himself who express^d. his concern that he did not know M^r M^cPhersons object — and said that if he had not left him suddenly he meant to have notified his name to that Gentleman.

8^th Aug^t left Boisdale and rode about 30 miles along the Western Shore of South Uist the greater part of the ride along extensive sandy desert occasioned by the drifting of the Sands called Shiaban which destroys great tracts of Land — the Estate of Boisdale marches at a short distance from Kilbride with that of Clanronald to whom the greatest part of South Uist belongs in property — In the course of our Journey we called at the House of Captain Macdonald of Miltoun one of the Tacksmen on the Clanronald Estate — At M^r MacDonald of Borrishnishuachdrich aged 73, who as well as Milton was of our party from Boisdale, — This M^r M^cDonaldBorrinish is the Heriditary Baillie or Chamberlain of the Family of Clan ronald and possesses a small Estate which derived to him from his ancestors as such. It is said he makes about 40 Tons of Kelp annualy on his property which may be estimated at £200 exclusive of his Land Rent. — We afterwards called on the Rev^d M^r Munro Minister of [...]^His wife was a Grand daughter of Ronald [...] the natural brother of my Grand fathers.[...] who promised to look out for the Letters he had received from Sir James Foulis relative to Oithona as ment^d to me at Boisdale —

About 12 miles from Kilbride, Boisdales seat, we passed on the right the ruins of a Seat of the Clanronald Family which is s^d to have been

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[f.27v] built in the year 1700 — and the Gentlemen of the Country all agree that this situation Armadale is the best for the Family Residence. — Miss Peggy resides here —

In the Evening we reached [...]M^r Nicolsons a Tacksman of Clanronalds who has lately purchased some part of the Estate of MacLeod in Skye — He was from home but we were hospitably entertained by Miss Martin and two Daughters of M^r Nicolsons — our party thus far consisted of

• MacNiel of Barray — who took the trouble to accompany me thus far
• Cap^t James Macdonald a brother of the Boisdale recently deceased — who also came
  in complement to M
  — M^r M^cDonald Griminish — M^rDonald Balranald
• M^rMacDonald
• The Rev^d M^r Allan M^cQueen
• the Rev^d. M^r Nicolson Missionary Minister

Besides M^r M^cDonald Milton & Borrinish there were two Romish Priests a M^r M^cEach^an & a M^r M^cDonald of the party in the morning & M^r MacEachan was so obliging as to guide us through the strand between South Uist & Benbecula the Island on which M^r Nicolson resides. He also got an old man named [...] and sent directions to the Son of the Bard Mac bhurish to attend at M^r Nicolsons — in order that we might converse with them on the subject of the Poems of Ossian.

––––– [...] came and entertained us with three or four pieces of Ancient Poetry One of which had not been heard ^before by any of the Gentlemen present — M^r[...]

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[f.28r] Nicolson has promised to take down two of these poems for me —

9^thLauchlan M^cbhurish the son of the Bard of that name waited on us this morning and appears to be but a ^ poor inadequate representative of his ancestors — being totally illiterate — He complained that the Farm which his Family had enjoyed from Clanronald for ages had been wrested from his Father unjustly and ascribed to that circumstance his Fathers hav^g relinquished all attention to the profession of his Ancestors who had been Bards for many Generations — There were none he said who enquired for Poetic or Historick productions nor who encouraged any person to devote attention to them and of course they had gone into disuse — he illustrated this by saying he w^d. not put a hand to the Kelp if he was not paid for it — He had a perfect recollection of his Father having had various manuscripts and Galic Letter used in Scotland & Ireland^particularly the Lheabher Dearg or red Book²⁴ and a declaration respecting his recollection of them was taken down by the Rev^d M^r Allan MacQueen Minister of North Uist which was repeatedly read as it was taken down and it was afterwards read ^by him to him in presence of several Gentlemen when he was desired to correct any expression he might think required it — but he repeatedly ^said that there was not any room for alteration that the whole was correct & he ^put his mark to itM^r M^cQueen is to make a fair copy to be signed by Barray as a Justice of Peace —²⁵Macbhurish being informed that doubts were entertained of the authenticity of Ossians

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[f.28v] Poems which were said to have been composed by M^r James M^cPherson, exclaimed that these Poems were known for ages before he was born — and treated the doubts with derision —

This man said he had intended to have applied to Bardichd if his Father had not when he was young been discouraged by the deprivation of the hereditary servant — that he did not receive any education — and knew scarcely any poems whatever — he however repeated the Brosnichih cabh macconil — the war Spear of the MacDonalds which is a poem of great merit. This man and most whom I conversed with on Barray & South Uist made Ireland the Country of the Fions — except^g one Man who made Scotland their Country — Barray suggested that these Ideas had probably been circulated by the Legion of Priests who came over to those Southern Isles fr^{m —}Ireland after the restoration as before ment^{d —} — Their Skealichds²⁶^or Tales are fabulous & extravagant and totally different from the Poems they themselves repeat — & this renders Barray Idea, which occured to myself also, the more probable —

Macbhurich told me that his Father held it as his belief that the Fions were coeval with Jesus Christ — bha m'Air de anibh amach gun rubh Chrïst ir tallabh an am na feinlibh" —

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[f.29r] In one of the Poems rehearsed by [...]S^t Patrick was styled [...]ic Alpin — corresponding to the relation of Niel M^cNiel in Barray —

M^rs M^cKenzie shewed me at Boisdale an old Book which She said was about 100 years old in the nature as it appeared to me of a sort of common place Book in which the owners occasionally inserted whatever stikes their fancy — Some of it was in the Galic character and some in the Roman. — It contained a variety of ^Galic poems — and amongst others parts of the Poems of Ossian — particularly the advice of Fingal to his Grandson Oscar, of which & some other Extracts from ^that Book She had begun to prepare a copy for me — but though it was not finished Barray took from her the paragraph end^g the above advice which is expressive of the noblest Sentiments that could enrich and exalt the human Mind & I find to be ^closely translated by M^cPherson²⁷ — This single circumstance is enough to establish the authenticity of the Poems because it expresses If the sublimity of the mind of Ossian and of his FatherFingal be estab^d in this important instance it will carry a conviction of the characters represented by Ossian hav^g been those of real Life — at whatever era these Heroes lived. — Mhic in bhish jica —

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[f.29v] 9^th — proceeded towards North Uist — passed Balnan calich (Nun Town) the present Seat of the Family of Clanronald consisting of modern Houses of indifferent appearance — The Factor resides here and has the Surround^g Lands in Farm — his crop of Barley very extensive and of excellent appearance — Indeed it is surprising how good the crops in these sandy districts are — both of Barley & Potatoes — as also of Rye M^r Brown was just recovering from a putrid fever which prevented our going in — Here my Friend Barra & Cap^t James MacDonald B^r to Boisdale who escorted me thus far took leave — and I continued my Journey attend^d by Balranald &^c— near Nun Town we passed ^the ruin of an old Castle in an Island — further to the Eastward Balbhanich (Monk town) — The burying ground of the Family of Clanronald is close to the present House — a very [...]small building without a Roof —

The Rev^d M^r Alex^r Nicolson pointed out an old burying ground which had been brought to view recently by the Shieban or Sand drifts hav^g carried off a mound of Sand that had covered it time out of mind — small square stone inclosures of the nature of Graves but of less dimensions were discovered in it — There were also traces of Houses in several parts of this days ride laid open by the Shieban — The opinion in this Country is that

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[f.30r] a Country had extended from these Islands to a great extent westward.²⁸

Benbecula — this is the Island in which M^r James M^cPherson met Macodrum the Bard when the anecdote before ment^d occurred — This was the seat of the second B^r. of Clanronald who succeeded to the Estate about the 1740 — Bhein bheul is the name of a Mountain on this Island from which it is suppos^d the Word Benbecula had its rise —

The strands that intervene between Benbecula on the East separate it at high water^when the Tide is in from North Uist — We passed them at ebb — these are of great extent and imbricated with various Small Isles evidently the remains of Lands which existed before the Sea made its way through them to east & west — The first part of Lord M^cDonalds Estate we reached in North Uist is annexed ^in lease to the Isle of Barneray at the other extremity of North Uist —

Saw many Kelpers [...] burning the ware in troughs of loose Stone about 6 feet by 2.— [...]Balranald informed me that the Kelp ^making Season expires on the 1^st of Aug^t old Style — ' ' about the 11^th new — that the ware that is thrown ashore after that season is used for manure — thinks Sandrift

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[f.30v] might be greatly checked by laying on such ware after levelling the ^sand Banks — We saw in South Uist great sheets of Sands from which the high Banks had been blown away beginning to recover verdure chiefly bent — & a sort of Creeper which last I was told if not cut up by the Cattle would soon bind the Sand — Balranald & M^r Allan M^cQueen agreed in thinking that Bent often occasions the formation of new sand banks by the interruption it gives to the Sheaban & collecting little banks which soon gather more sand & become great Banks — Balranald stated that he is of opinion sandrift w^d be more checked if the Tenantry were encouraged to labour the Sand & Level the Banks — but that poor men could not afford to risk the labour & their Seed and Manure in the event of an unsuccessful attempt which might happen occasionally.

[...]

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[f.31r] Genealogy of the Family of MacDonald of the Isles taken down at Balronald^in North Uist the 10^th. of Aug^t 1800 from the diction of M^r Hūstain M^cDonald Tacksman of Kilphedre in South Uist — [...]

• 1 Alister mhac Alister
• 2 [...] bhic Alister
• 3 [...] bhic Shemis
• 4 [...] mhic Dhail bhriochd Bhriochd
• 5 [...] bhic Shemis
• 6 [...] mhic Dhoil Ghuirm oig
• 7 [...] mhic Gillespie
• 8 [...] bhic Dhoil Ghuirm Shasnich
• 9 [...] mhic Dhoil Ghuirm
• 10 [...] bhic Dhoil Gruomich
• 11 [...] bhi Dhoil Ghallich
• 12 [...] Mhi Alistair^xiv — of Slate
• [...] Mhic Alister ^v
• [...] bhic^xxvi Dhoil — Brother of Rhoial the first of the family of Clanronald
• [...] Mhic Eoin
• [...] Mhic Innish oig
• [...] Mhic Innish Mhore
• [...] Mhic Alister
• [...] Mhic shean Innis [...]^hanic Tenglich Mhic Iean [...]^in ardnamurchan agus Glencoah bho Iean mhic Shean Innis —
• [...] Mhic Dhoil
• [...] Mhic Ra[...]il
• [...] Mhic Shoirlih
• [...] Mhi Gillibrideh
• [...] Mhic Gilloenan

*^viiShelistan — which he says sh^d be Gillespie in Galic — was a natural son of Alister mhic Dhoil — he was Brother of Alistair of Slate and of John who lost the Earldom of Ross — cha ro ê ^(John) strïcha ro Ri er bih — ach cur suos ri Riogh nan Sassnich — agus nuor chunic a Bhrair Alistair Shid ghabh e fein coirichen bon Riogh. — bha aid graid gumn bi Riogh Hessen a mhil gnoich Eoin.²⁹

One of the Family of Glengary was married to a Daughter of Shelistan and asserted that, in her right, they had a ^claim to the Earldom of Ross alleging that Shellistan Sh^d succeed his B^r. John — Whereas Shellistan was a natural son & the

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[f.32r] Genealogy of the Family of Clanronald taken down 10^th— Aug^t 1800 from the diction of the said M^rHustain MacDonald

• [...] Rhaoil
• Mhac Ian
• Mhic Rhaoil
• bhic
• Mhic Dhoil
• Mhic Rhaoil oig
• Mhic Rhaoil mhore
• Mhic Allain
• Mhi Ian Mhadairtich
• Mhic Alister
• Mhic Allain
• Mhic Ruory
• ^mhac bhic Alister
  patronimic of the
  Glengary FamilyMhic Allain — His Brother Dhoil the
  first of Tenlist mhac ^bhic alaster
  or Glengary who got that Estate
  second Son of Rhaoil M^cEoin
• Mhic Rhaoil
• Mhic Eoin — Father also of
  Dhoil who carried
  on the Line of the
  Principal Family

The Estate of Clanronald was given to Rhail as or second Brother the Principal

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[f.32v] Family then residing in the Southern Isles of Isla &^ca.

Donald Roy mhac Rhaoil bhic Sir Shemis told the said [...] that he was informed by William Mhac Sir Formaid (M^cLeod that hav^g observed an inscription on a Stone at R[...]iodil in Harries bearing the name of Ruory mhore MacLeod (Father of Sir Normand) and [...] MacRanald his Wife — asked W^m the reason — he ans^d^by asking if they did not know that the Lady was his Grandmother — they replied that they did not know they reason of MacRonald being on the Inscription — W^m ans^d do you not know that Teulich Mhac bhic Alister³⁰ is from that of Clanronald (mhac bhic Allain) — they replied that they knew this but did not know that they called them selves — or signed — MacRanald — W^m ans^d that they wrote MacRonald at the time of the decease of that Lady but

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[f.33r] had lately discontinued it — W^m. added that he did not consider the disuse of M^cRonald judicious or wise — and asked the reason for that opinion — said that if they had continued to call themselves M^cRanald they would have been the Chieftains of their own Name or Branch whereas they w^d cease to have that marked distinction by^and the adoption of Mac Donald or MacD[...] — to thereafter only as for[...] one of the Name nac roh ard uishl ach fer don Chinneah³¹ —

11^th — Visited the farms southward between Balronald & Carinish — see separate notes.

Aug^t 13 left Balronalds & went two miles to the northward to the Rev^d M^r allan M^cQueens at Tighary — called on his Sister M^rs M^cLean of Heiskier at Peinmore in our way to his House — saw her Daughter & youngest Son — descended f^m—Roinal Mhache Sir Shemus³²

M^r M^cQueen is B^r of M^r Ed. M^cQueen Min^r of Barra who has ^am^g others followed me to this place in order to take down Galic Poems &^ca

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[f.33v] In the Church yard of Kill mhoirah (Kilmuir) in North Uist is the Tomb Stone of Ronald MacDonald who was a natural Son of Sir James M^cDonald of Slate, my Great Grandfather, & this Ronald was of course my Grand uncle — B^r. to John of Balcory my Grandfather — I do not recollect to have every heard before of this Ronald — He is said to have been long abroad — in the Dutch Service — at Battavia & [...] in Turkey after he settled at home he was stiled of Ballisheare — he had made a considerable fortunes several times — whilst abroad — but either lost or spent them — He married four times — his 1^st Wife was Barbara M^cPherson Grand Aunt of Sir John M^cPherson by whom he had 5 Sons^#viii & 3 daughters —

• 2. Wife a Daughter of Barra
• 3. Wife a Daughter of Ronald Mhic Allain³³ MacDonald of the Clanronald Family —
• 4. a Daughter of Angus Mhache Roanil³⁴ a Gentleman of Slate by whom he had one son John whom I remember — he could not sleep alone in a room — heard noises of hammering — & often told me he would be drowned — which actually happened several years afterwards — when I was in India —

of Ronalds Sons I did not get any account.

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[f.34r] His Daughters were married —

• 1 to M^r Arch^d M^cLean of Heiskir of whom M^rs M^cLean (M^r M^cQueens Sisters) Children are descended
• 1 to Donald Campbell of Scalpay in Harries
• 1 to Alex^r MacDonald Heisker first and 2^dly to Lachlan MacDonald of Dreemisdale in Southuist.

Ronald died on the 13 august 1742 — (before I was born) — aged 87. — His first wife was buried twenty two years before him in the same Tomb — 16 Nov 1720 —

12^th— remained at Balranald till late in the afternoon — & then [...] Went to Tigharethe Rev^d. M^r Allan MacQueens — to dinner & stay the night employed in endeavouring to collect some of Ossians poems — and in seeing M^rHustain MacDonald of Kilbride in South Uist dictate his declaration relative to Ossians Poems taken down in Galic —³⁵

13 left Tighare late in the afternoon — called at Hosta on M^rs M^cLean Sister of ^the Rev^d M^r M^cQueen saw in Lochscorpaig, a pendicle of the farm of Greeminish, the remains of a Dun in which there had been a building — Here Raonil mhache Dhonil Herrich was strangled — through the

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[f.34v] influence of some of his Relations — His son fled to Ireland or was sent thither when young — When arrived at Manhood he returned to revenge his Fathers Murder — The man who strangled him was named Paul — & had the Nick name of Paul na feiligh — from the Leathern thing with which he put Raonil to death — the Son walked so like his Father that Paul knew he must be the Son — & made off to take sanctuary at Kill Mhoira — but Raonil Son shot him in the Heel with an arm which brought him down & he was then put to death — the spot is still called Lead Phail — the breadth of Paul. —

[...]

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[f.35r] Names of Sons of the Family of MacDonald — taken down from M^rHustain M^cDonald 13 Aug^t 1800

• Ian : no sons.
• Hūstain 12 — Donal Gallich — born in Gallen} had children
• Donil Herrick —
• Gillespie — s b'donnah a} no children
• Aonnis —
• Doil Gallash
  11. Dòil Gruomach
• Alister.
• Doil Gruomich
  10. Doil Gorm killed at Ellan Donnan in Seaforths Lands³⁶
• Shemis —
  Gillespie} had children
  Killed in Slate by Clan [...]
• Ian — killed when young in Slate by clan ronal — Hustain son of Gillespie
• Alister — ŭochdir — ^a murderer from uochdir Sleat
• Ranal — Calbhaich
• 9. Doil Gorm no children
• 9. Doil Gorm Salnach — had no children the worst that ever held the Estate
• Gillespie — had children & carried on the present line
• Doil Gorm more — no children
• 8 — Gillespie — carries on the present line
• 7 D
  Doil Gorm oig³⁷
• Alister More — a madman
• Alister oig
• 6 — Sir Shemis
• Doil Gorm Sleitach had Children
• Gillespie. — had a son ^Eion — killed in atholl mar^d
  Grandfather of [...] a Daughter of Barra
• Alister Ruogh — hanged himself at Kirk[...]
  married to MacKays daughter — had a son Hustain a Cap in Holland no son — a daughter married to Torlusk in Mull
• Aonise died young
• by a daughter of the Tutor of [...] predecessor of the Earl of Cromarty.³⁸
• 5 Donil —
• Huistean
• Somerled — Somhairle
• Shemis oig
• Aonis — no children
• Ruory —one natural son — who had no issue
• 2^d marriage
  Ian.
• Raonil.
• Eoin Eirinach no issue
• Aonis — had a son who went to America} natural Sons
• 4 — Donil — Obhar — Shir Donal Beg —
  no children — had one who lived not a year after him
• Shemis —
• William —
• 3 Alister

Sir James gave his Son John of the 2^d Marriage — that part of Troternish extending from the River of Glenteltin to the River of Patrie as a patrimony — besides the Lands of Boalcnie^Bailcnie Bailecoumhni purchased for him — all this from Hustan M^cDonald

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[f.36r] 13^thKil[...]phedere in South Uist who remembers his Father having often talked of the gross injustice done to the Children of Ian mhic S'hir Shemis — ie to my Grandfathers Children —

13 Aug^t left Tighair and proceeded to Valay

14 remained at Valay

15 — proceeded to Borera — attended by Valay — Boreray — Greeminish — the Rev^d M^r James MacQueen — M^r Gillespie — at Berneray found his Lady the youngest daughter of Berneray — a Sister of Bernerays married to M^r M^cNeil younger of S^t Kilda — who was also there.

remained at Boreray

17 proceeded to Berneray^left M^r Edmund M^cQueen & Greemishnish at Boreray where I found the old Gentleman of 85 looking well — but his Eyesight & knees weak — ^but his spirits good & mind intire On a marble Tabulet above the door of a small old House was is the foll^g inscription
Hic natus est
illustrius ille
Normannus MacLeod
Armiger Auribis

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[f.36v] This Gentleman & a Brother of his Ruarie were knighted on the field of the Battle of Worcester — Sir Norman was Lady Murrays Great Grandfather.

18 proceeded through the district of Sannd to Lochmaddy accompanied by Boreray — ValayM^cNeil — & part of the way by the Rev^d M^r Allan MacQueen who followed me from Tighair to Berneray.

Passed Clachan where M^r M^cQueen informed me there is the remains of a druidical circle as the name implys — M^r M^cQueen officiates at this place once in three weeks on the open field — he applied, for a House for divine Service, to me as one of Lord M^cDonalds Commissioners — The request is reasonable — ^passed Balmhic Conmar

19 Inspected the intended site of the Village of Lochmaddy and some of the ground in the vicinity — determined to recommend an alteration of the plan that had been proposed for reasons to be detailed elsewhere

20 Left Lochmaddy & arrived at Dunvegan

21 Discharged the Oban Cutter and gave John

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[f.37r] Livingston £12 — of which by his own advice each of the five men composing his Crew was invited to get a Guinea leaving £5.15 — for himself which he s^d. was too much — his men expressed their thankfulness —

21 proceeded to GreeshinishM^r John M^cDonald of Castletowns — Sheriff substitute of this district of Invernesshire^my selection & old acquaintance — married to a very old acquaintance of mine Miss Peggy M^cLeod of Bearnsdale whom I recollect to have known at Callander

About half way from Dunvegan met L^t Col M^cDonald of Lyndale who came to meet me — The Sheriff & he sent Horses for our riding & for our Baggage which met us — but we had procured Horses that enabled us to move from Dunvegan — where I unexpectedly found a relation M^rs M^cLean married to the Tacksman — Grand Daughter of one of my mothers Sisters — found also here Cap^t Cyprus M^cLeod — ^a natural Uncle of the present M^cLeod, married to a Cousin Germain of Col Jo. M^cDonalds.

Dunvegan is grandly situated —

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[f.37v]

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[f.38r]

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[f.38v]

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[f.39r]

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[f.39v]

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[f.40r]

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[f.40v]

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[f.41r]

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[f.41v]

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[f.42r]

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[f.42v]

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[f.43r]

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[f.43v]

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[f.44r]

• Poccint —
  Ah Heo Hemlock
• Brighan — mas corn
  wild skerrit
• cromac
• caornan —
• Peasir na luch — vetches³⁹
• Cuach Phadric — a drawing medicine
• Slan Lus — a healing quality
• Goche Rude — a sort of Thistle
• Blonigen — wild spinnage
• Bui[...]ag — the stem of the Sorrel
• meachean the leaf of the Bur or Cliathan
• Sceallan — wild mustard —

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[f.44v]

Fūïr — wild Cellery Cnotill — rock moss — a bad red dye Alder Bark — a black dye Fearn — Do Ruitt — wild Gall — yellow Heath tops Green — yellow Gŭírnig — small Barnicles that attach to wood or any hard substance producing insects said to destroy wood & to take wing. Guirnan — Blue — Rûib red Tree rannach a sort of Fearn Buolan — ragwort — a yellow dye Shemrag a mhanik the milky Shemrag — white Clover Shemrag a Eich — the Horse Shemrag — Red Clover — Shalavag — Sorrel —

Cliathan Cluoran —} burr. Geigan Thistle Cuisag Stem of the Docken Coppag the blade or Leaves of Do Smear Bramble berry Smearah plural of Do Shallisbher Siggin Meelaûhag — wild poppy Glunich Luochir ghoir dwarf rashes Buiag — the yellowest part of Sea ware that makes the best kelp — Femin Sea ware — mhuirskein — Razor fish.

^Gaelic Description of the best Bow.

^Bogha Iubhar Esragain
Itè Firean Locha Freig
Ceir Buidhe Bhaile nan Gobhan
'S Cean o'n Cheard MacPheidēran

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[f.45r]

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Editorial notes

1. See Eliza Fletcher’s account in J.G. Fyfe, Scottish Diaries and Memoirs, 1746-1843 (Stirling: E. Mackay, 1927-1942), 2 vols, ii, pp. 320-321. (AMC).
2. In the manuscript a small drawing of a shield appears between the two letters.
3. Possibly latha na coinneamh (day of the meeting. (AMC).
4. Sgàinneadh (cracking). (AMC).
5. Creach (a cattle raid). (AMC)
6. Possibly 'Togail chrodh Dhonnchaidh': the lifting of Donnchadh or Duncan’s cattle.
7. Under a royal grant made by James III in 1487, the Dewars of Glendochart were the heredity keepers of the crozier of Fáelán Amlabar (St Fillan) — which was reputed to have healing powers — and the Coigreach, a decorative reliquary that incased it. In 1785, William Thomson, a student at Oxford, wrote to the earl of Buchan, informing him that in 1782 he had seen the 'Quigrich', in the possession of one Malice Doire (Dewar), a day labourer from Killin, and inclosing a drawing. Thomson notes that Dewar's son, then nineteen, appeared to be mortally ill. In 1819, Archibald Dewar, then the heriditary keeper, emigrated to Ontario, taking both the crozier and Coigreach with him, although they were later returned to Scotland. Archaelogia Scotia: or Transactions of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, vol. iii, pp.289-91. See also Anon., 'A Tour in Scotland 1794'.
8. In the manuscript a shield is depicted in the middle of the four-digit date.
9. John Stuart, who had accompanied Thomas Pennant on his voyage and tour of 1772, and was married to MacIntyre's daughter, Susan.
10. A similar anecdote concerning a broach taken from Robert the Bruce at Dalrigh and handed down by the Dunollie family until its destruction by fire is given in Thomas Pennant, A tour in Scotland 1772, part II (1776), p.14.
11. The date is clearly given in the manuscript as 23 July 1800 although this does not fit with the dating of subsequent entries.
12. Còig cheud bliadhna mas tàinig Crìosd air talamh. (AMC).
13. The so called treaty of Westminster Ardtorinish in 1462. See J. and R.W. Munro, eds., The Acts of the Lords of the Isles, 1336-1493 (Edinburgh: Scottish History Society, 1986), pp.110-116. (AMC)
14. Possibly a version of A Plain, Authentic and Faithful Narrative of the Passages of the Young Chevalier (London: 1750).
15. Luingis fada. (AMC).
16. The Macleans of Coll had other well-heeled travellers at this time. These included Edward Clarke, sometime professor of mineralogy and Sarah Murray of Kensington (1802). See Nicolas Maclean-Bristol, Clan to Regiment (Barnsley: Pen & Sword Military, 2007), pp.297-306. (AMC).
17. The architectural comparison is a common trope in travellers' descriptions of Staffa, originating with Joseph Banks's account of the island and its caves, published in Pennant, A tour in Scotland 1772 (1774), pp.299-309.
18. The death of Ossian's son, Oscar, is narrated in James Macpherson, Temora: An Ancient Epic Poem in Eight Books (London: 1763). In James Smith's versions of the death of Oscar, he is given the name Artho; see The Death of Artho and the Death of Fraoch (Glasgow: 1769) and Galic Antiquities: Consisting of a History of the Druids, Particularly of Those of Caledonia; a Dissertation on the Authenticity of the Poems of Ossian; and a Collection of Ancient Poems, Translated from the Galic of Ullin, Ossian, Orran, Etc. (Edinburgh: 1780).
19. The second word here had not been identified. One would expect dealg gualainn. Dealg means pin, gualainn means shoulder. (AMC).
20. See Macpherson, Fingal, an ancient epic poem, in six books: together with several other poems, composed by Ossian the son of Fingal, pp.241-248.
21. A further reference to Laing, The History of Scotland (London: 1800).
22. Chan eil sin ach smior na brèige agus bu dàna am fear a rinn i: is ann aige a bha fios. (That is nothing but lies to the marrow – how bold the man who composed this – he well knew it). (AMC).
23. Mìle beannachd air MacConchair (a thousand blessings on mac Conchair). (AMC).
24. The so-called 'Red Book' of Clanranald, a Gaelic manuscript dating to the seventeenth century, was obtained by James Macpherson while searching for sources of Ossianic poetry in 1760. It is now in the collections of the National Museums of Scotland.
25. The witnessed declaration of Lachlan MacMhuirich is given in Gaelic and English in Henry Mackenzie, Report of the Committee of the Highland Society of Scotland, Appointed to Inquire into the Nature and Authenticity of the Poems of Ossian (Edinburgh: 1805), pp.275-79.
26. Sgeulachdan (tales). (AMC).
27. See Macpherson, Fingal, Book III.
28. There is a township on a low lying island (still occupied) at the western extremity of north Uist called Baile Shear (the eastern township). The presumption is that there was a western township that disappeared due to erosion. (AMC).
29. Cha robh e [John] striochdadh ro Rìgh air bi ach cuir suas ri Rìgh nan Sasannach. Agus nuaira chunnaic (?) a bhràthair, Alasdair, siud ghabh e fhèin còraichean bhon rìgh. Bha iad gradha gum by rìgh esan a mhill gnothaich Eoin. (He [John] bowed to no king but put up with the English king. But when his brother, Alasdair saw that he himself assumed the right of kingship. They said that he was the king that spoiled things for John). (AMC).
30. Teaghlach mac mhic Alasdair (the family of mac mhic Alasdair). (AMC).
31. nach robh na àrd uaisle ach fear don chinneadh (that wasn’t a high noble but [simply] one of the clan [Macdonald]). (AMC).
32. Raghnall mac mhic Sheumais. (AMC).
33. Raghnall mac mhic Ailein. (AMC).
34. Aonghas Mac Raghnaill. (AMC).
35. Hugh Macdonald's testimony is reproduced in Gaelic and English in Mackenzie's Report pp.38-51.
36. Dòmhnall Gorm MacDonald of Sleat killed with an arrow through the thigh which burst an artery while besieging Eilean Donan castle, c.1540. He was carried away but must have bled to death. (AMC).
37. Dòmhnall Gorm Òg, chief of the MacDonalds of Sleat, died c.1643. Elegies to him were composed by Iain Lom, Murchadh MacKenzie and Cathal MacMhuirich. (AMC).
38. Ruairidh MacCoinneach (Roderick Mackenzie) of Còigeach, Tutor of Kintail (d.1626). Father of Sir John Mackenzie of Tarbat and grandfather of George Mackenzie of Tarbat, first earl Cromartie. (AMC).
39. Peasair nan luch (tufted vetch). (AMC).