Tour in Scotland August 1794.
“Care Selve beate,
E voi solinghi, et taciturni Horrori,
Di Riposo e di Pace Alberghi veri,
O quanto volontieri
A rividervi I’ torno: e se le Stelle-
M’ havesser dato in sorte
viver à me stessa, e di far Vita
Conforme a le mie voglie:
Io già co’ Campi Elisi
Fortunato Giardin de’ Semidei,
La vostr’Ombra gentil non cangerei”
Pastor Fido
Scena V.
“A tale of the Times of old! The Deeds of Days
“of other Years. The murmur of thy Streams O
“Lora brings back the memory of the past.
“The sound of thy Woods, Garmallar, is loudly
“in mine Ear.”
Ossian’s Carthorn.
1
Thursday,
August 1
st. Left
London at 1. O. clock in the afternoon,
and were set down in
Carlisle on Saturday at
2 P.M. This City is small, dirty and ill built: the Castle, in one of the Towers
of which
Mary Queen of Scots was confined, is
strong, but irregular, and without any Dignity or Symmetry of Parts; and the
ramparts which surround the Town are of the same Description. The Town appears
not to be populous or Commercial.
We left Carlisle on Sunday 4th., and soon came in sight of the Bor-
ders form’d by an immense chain of Mountains, beginning at the West with the
lofty hill of
Scrawfell rival of
the great Skiddaw, which with the range of
Mountains bounding the Lakes of
Cumberland
appear’d in view to a vast distance. We pass’d over
the
extensive Plain of the Solway, formerly the Theatre of mutual
Devastation, and the scene of many a bloody Encounter between the two Hostile
Nations now so happily united. This Plain is celebrated for the extraordinary
Eruption of the Moss. It issued from an aperture no larger than the Mouth of a
common well. Being a solution of the Mossy Pulp in water, no obstacle which
might have stopp’d or retarded
the progress of a Solid Body could
withstand it’s Course. This inconsiderable spring poured forth it’s Contents
with such Copiousness and Rapidity, that in an Hour’s time it overwhelmed a
Track of Country many Miles in all Directions, completely burying it under this
extraordinary Lava. Many People were surprised in their Houses, and narrowly
escaped with their Lives. It cover’d the Bridges and roads, and stopp’d the
Course of a number of rivulets, rendering all communicati
^on between the different Parts of the Country impracticable. In the
Course of Years it has been removed and thrown into the
River Eske, and so carried into the Sea, but
there still remain many prominent Marks of the Devastation.
i
3 On passing
the River
Sark we enter’d
Scotland by
the celebrated village of Greatney, and
went on to
Douglas Mill where we slept.
Mnday 5th. Walked to Lanark along a dreary and uncomfortable Country. Here we
visited the Cotton Mills belonging to Mr.
Dale, in which no less than 1700 Persons are employ’d. There is an
Institution forming part of this extensive Scheme which does Honour to the
Proprietor, and which cannot be contemplated without Pleasure and Admiration.
This Benevolent and truly Patriotick Man employs no less than 300 Boys and
Girls, all of indigent Parents, who are brought
up in the Mills,
and are taught the art of spinning in the Cotton and the other branches of the
Business. They are fed and cloath’d by Him for a certain term of Years, which
being expired, He gives to each a Suit of Cloaths and 20 S. in money: and then
they are at liberty to seek new Masters, or to remain in his service. But while
they are thus acquiring early Habits of Diligence and Industry, and attaining
that Skill in the Manufacture which is the Foundation of their future
Independance in Life their Minds are by no means neglected. This munificent
Patron maintains no less than 11 Masters for their Instruction in those useful
Parts of Knowledge that are most appropriate to their
situation in society; such as Reading, Writing and Arithemik; which are taught
after the Termination of their daily Occupations in the Mills. We saw there 300
sit down in a large Room each with his Cogue or Bason (no small one) of
excellent Scotch Broth and their respective Rations of Oatmeal Bread. They
appear’d to be stout, healthy children. In another large Room exceedingly well
ventilated they sleep in large Beds containing 3 a piece. So extraordinary and
ingeniously contrived is the Machinery of the Mills that all the operations,
which are of amazing Variety and Complication, are perform’d by children under
the age of 12 Years.
Mr. Dale the Proprietor
is a singular Instance of the Effect which Industry and
Prudence aided by Fortune may produce. Although some Years ago He was only a
Journey-man weaver, He now gives bread to between 6 or 7000 People employ’d in
the various Departments of his Business.
The Mills are situated about 2 Miles up the River from Lanark and their first Appearance is very striking. They are
built in a deep or rather profound Glen close to the Clyde, which is hemm’d in on both sides by high and rugged
Precipices, ---- rolling over 2 or 3 little Falls, and again broken by detach’d
Fragments of Rock producing and Agitation attended with a continual murmuring
Noise. The main Body of
the Building is parallell [
sic] to
the River, and there is a large detach’d Wing to the westward of it: and in the
middle is a very fine spacious Area. At a little distance from the Mills stands
a small neat and regularly built Village belonging to
Mr.
Dale, and built by Him for the residence of his Mechanics. At the
brow of the Hill by which it is approach’d from
Lanark this whole scene suddenly opens to view: the first
Object which immediately
^arrests our attention is the
Building of the Mills which
^being very lofty, regular
and entirely of Stone together with it’s Extent and the stature of it’s
Situation, impresses
^us with the Idea of the retreat of
a Great Monarch rather than of a Place destin’d for the Exercise of mechanical
Industry: and indeed the whole corresponds with every
Suggestion which could proceed from the warm Imagination of a Poet.
Mr. Dale politely shew’d us the Works: but it
is difficult to convey to those who have not seen them any precise Acquaintance
with their Structure, the various Parts or their general Cooperation.
The whole is set in motion by one Wheel of amazing Dimensions suspended in the
Center of the Building, it’s Axis on each side resting on the solid Rock, in
which is cut or blown a chasm large enough to permit the Revolution of the
wheel. The Stream which drives it runs through the Perforation of a solid
Rock some hundred yards in length and it ends on a level with
that part of the River’s Surface from which the Current into it is powr’d. The
channel of this current runs parallell [
sic] to the Course of the River
with considerable rapidity: the Elevation from which it proceeds being about 50
Feet above the bed of the Water at the Mills as the River descends from the
aperture by 3 Falls: and it is made with that degree of declension requisite to
give the Water it’s necessary proportion of Velocity and Force. In the center of
the area there is a receptacle for the water of a circular Form, and being here
collected, by means of sluices which can be raised and depress’d, is regulated
the Quantity of Water which turns the great Wheel, and
consequently the Quickness of Motion in the whole Machinery. This is measur’d by
means of the Dial Plate of a Clock, the Hands of which are turn’d by the
Revolutions of the great Wheel, which is compared with a Common Clock placed in
the same Room (Counting House) : 20 Revolutions being fix’d as the Standard of a
Minute, and occasionally as it becomes slower or faster the water is so
regulated as to bring it within that medium.
The 1st. Operation is that of carding the Raw Cotton.
It is placed on a flat Frame of Wood under a long round Piece of polish’d Iron:
in this situation it is
gradually taken in by the Revolution of a
Cylindrical Carding Brush: from this it is caught by another of finer and closer
Wires, and being brought up in the Course of the Revolution it is intercepted by
the repeated and regular strokes of a straight single row of Teeth supported
upon and acting by 2 Levers, which strikes it off the Cylinder, whence it is
transmitted between two plain Pieces of wood which being round and continually
revolving draws it out in shape of a long narrow Train of Cotton, and in this
manner it is lodg’d in a Tin Case. By the same operation it is afterwards
gradually reduced to a size fit for the Bobbin.
The fine Thread is produced by a curious Process. A Leathern strap attached to
some of the larger secondary
wheels which are put in motion by
the Primary Movement goes round a certain number of smaller Dimensions ranged
along a Frame: these last again have another strap each going round a certain
number of Bobbins. — Large Bobbins of the coarse
Thread Thread being placed on the Top of the Machine arranged in a
straight Line standing perpendicularly, and turning loosely on their axes the
Thread is introduced: 1
st between a wooden plain
small Cylinder, and under it a fluted metal one, both turn’d by brass Wheels,
which reduces it to a particular Size: 2
d. it then
succeeds to another viz: a Cylinder cover’d with fine Leather and another of
Metal finer than the first and brought closer together, in order still farther
to attenuate
the Thread: 3
d. it’s
ultimate Finess [
sic]
^is produced by a third of the same Description,
bringing out a Thread as even and uniform as that of a silk-worm. In this last
stage it is wound round the lower set of Bobbins mention’d above: then are
placed in 2 Rows (as likewise the larger ones) on a Frame, which in order that
the Thread may be equally distributed along them is rais’d and depress’d by the
revolution of a plain Elliptical Wheel: thus lifting up the Bobbins along with
it, & gradually letting them down again, so that every part has it’s due
proportion of the Thread.
About ¾ of a Mile above the Mills are the two stupendous Falls of the Clyde call’d the Bonniton-Lyn and the Corallyn. To these we are led by a walk in the
Park of
Lady Ross, romantically winding along
the Bank of the River, and awfully looking down on it’s deep dark and rug--ged
Bed, flanked on each side by high and perpendicular Rocks. Of these Cascades the
Corallyn is by far the most
considerable.
The Water is first collected in a round Bason in a vast Inclosure of the Rocks on
each side, from which it moves with Majestick Slowness ‘till pitching on a
craggy Bottom immediately below the Line of the Bason it is instantly broken and
throw’n into the most furious Violence and Ebullition. It is carried on in this
manner foaming and agitated for some way over a nearly horizontal surface, until
it arrives at the brink of the first Fall
(for there are properly
two) over which it is precipitated with great force, and plunging into the Flood
below, by the Rebound throws up it’s water in Pyramidical Columns to a
considerable Height. Being here in a manner collected for the greatest onset it
soon arrives at the last Fall which is much higher and of greater Expanse that
the first: it rolls it’s mighty Volume over the shapeless Precipice with a
resistless Force and thundering Sound, it’s terrifick appearance and the solemn
Grandeur of the scene which surrounds it suspending every Power of the Mind in
Astonishment and Awe. The Spray, at the same time, ascending like Clouds of
Smoke to a vast Height
^and illuminated with the rays of the
Sun flings into the atmos-sphere all the vivid Clours of the Prism,
and they are
sometimes
^often exhibited in a circular Form, some Parts of the
spray near the surface being thrown into a Revolutionary Motion. When it falls
on the Rock below the foaming Whiteness immediately ceases as if the whole Body
of the Water were swallow’d up in a gulf. When the Sun shines upon it, the Light
from on it’s surface is so strong as scarcely
to be sustain’d by the Eye, and it gives to all the neighbouring Objects a
sombrous and melancholy Aspect. Behind is seen the calm and glassy Surface of
the Bason from which this tumultuous Scene proceeds buried in a deep and
cavernous Obscurity; presenting to us the contrasted Representation of the most
placid Tranquillity, and the most ungovernable Violence & Disorder.
Bonniton-Lyn is much inferior to the last,
and consists of one Stream thrown over a Rock.
At about 4 Miles down the River is the Fall of
Stone-Byers: it consists of 3 distinct Columns of Water, one
above the other, thrown each from an amazing Height, in an immense Mass, and it
exceeds by far the other two in Magnitude and Grandeur.ii
Lanark is a pleasant little Town and situated
in a charming Country.
Tuesday 6th. August. We walk’d from Lanark, and arrived in Glasgow late in the Evening after a fatiguing. March of 36
Miles, and render’d vexatious by some cross accidents. The Road lay along the
Banks of the Clyde, and the country appear’d
well cultivated and
finely wooded. We stopp’d at
Hamilton, and saw
Chatelheraultiii the residence of
the Duke of Hamilton. It is an old
Mansion, & has nothing to the exterior to recommend it, nor can much be said
for the Furniture and internal Decorations. The grand room the only one worthy
of remark is long and well proportion’d, but it is furnish’d in a manner which
seems to betray the perverted Taste of a Voluptuary. In different Places there
are Setees on the Floor “a la Turque”: in other Mattrasses [
sic] and sofas
with arm-chairs and Reading Desks so confusedly arranged as to give it strongly
the air of an Upholsterer’s Warehouse. It contains however one invaluable
Curiosity,
the Painting of Daniel in the Lions’ Den
by Rubens.
The Figure of Daniel in the middle is
exquisitely painted. The admirable attitude, the exact anatomy, the Inflexions
and Indentures of the Muscles so excellently express’d, and the clean fleshy
colouring, all conspire to render it a perfect Production of Art. In the Eyes
and Face turn’d up to Heaven we could almost imagine that we discern’d the
carious Emotions then working on his Mind, were we not certain that it exceeds
the Province of Painting to express at the same instant any Variety or
Combination of them. The Lions are all admirably drawn, in different attitudes,
and by their manner strongly impress us with the Idea of being restrain’d by a
supernatural Power. In one of the rooms there is an Original
Painting of Mary Queen of Scots: it corresponds
with the Testimony of Historians relating to the Beauty of that
Unforunate and misguided Princess.
After leaving Hamilton we pass’d over
Bothwell Bridge celebrated for the
Defeat of the Covenanters by the Marquis of
Montrose. We visited the remains of the
Castle which is a Noble Ruin, standing on the Top of a Hill high
and steep, and at the foot of it the Clyde
rolls it’s troubled Flood.
August 7th. and 8th.
Stopp’d at Glasgow. This large Commercial
and Populous City is the best built of any in Scotland: the Fronts of the Houses are chiefly of Stone, many
of them having Collonades and Porticcos with other architectural ornaments; and
being mostly detach’d from each other they have more the appearance
of little Palaces than the Residence of Private Citizens. The
High Street in particular is very magnificent, being built in a straight Line
running to a great length, and the Houses on each side having regular and lofty
Fronts. At the Top of it is the Toll-Booth and the Exchange, and under it the
spacious and elegant Coffee House of the Tontine, to which the Merchants resort
to transact Business.
iv
The Cathedral is a superb Gothick Struc-ture
situated on the summit of an Eminence North of the City, and can be seen on all
sides at a great Distance from Glasgow. It
is divided into 3 Parts the one Wing being set apart for the service of the
Parish in which it stands: the other is call’d the Low-church:
and the center is dignified with the Name of the High-Church.
This Part is spacious, lofty, well-lighted, and the cluster’d Gothick Columns
with their corresponding Arches are in the best proportions of that grand stile
of architecture. That Aisle which is with great propriety call’d
^low is exceedingly dark, and has more the appearance of
the Dungeon of a Prison than a Place destined for the Exercise of a Religion
which inspires Comfort, and awakens us to pleasing and serene Enjoyments. At the
End of it there is a Cymetry a Place where is
no Light but rather Darkness
visible7 and painted black in order to aggravate
the Gloom:
in short in every respect calculated to render our
instinctive Dread of Death more horrible. These many leading Families in the
Town have their particular Vaults.
The College is by no means remarkable: they
have however begun a new Quadrangle which is to be built in consequence of a
bequest of John Hunter the late eminent
Surgeon, and for the reception of his valuable Anatomical Preparations, which He
has left to the society.
There is a singular Piece of Convenience which the People of Glasgow enjoy, and to which I have seen nothing
similar elsewhere. In a large Meadow extending along the Clyde, called the Green,
there stands a low Quadrangular Building, in the
inside divided
into equal Portions or Compartments by means of small wooden Pillars, giving it
the appearance of a small Piazza: in the middle is a large reservoir of water
brought from the River and thrown into this Bason by forcing Pumps: in the
Corners are Boilers for heating the water. All the washing Work of
Glasgow is perform’d in two Places of this kind,
each of those Portions being let out indiscriminately to a certain Number of
washer-women, who have the Advantage of being supplied with Hot and Cold water,
and of drying their Linen on
the Green at
the Rate of 3
d. a day. We saw 200 Acres of Ground
cover’d with
washing Articles of every Description.
The Clyde where it runs by
Glasgow is broad but not navigable, being very shallow and it’s
course broken by Fragments of the rock, over which it goes with a continual
Noise. There are two light and elegant Bridges thrown over it here. Owing to
this Impossibility of navigating the River so high the Trade of
Glasgow is carried on at
Greenock and
Port Glasgow
near the Mouth of the River.
At 4 Miles from Glasgow is the Vale of Kelvin celebrated for the Stupendous Aqueduct which conveys over it Part of
the Grand Canal joi^ning the
Firths of the Forth and the Clyde. It consists of 4 arches, the
span of each appearing to be about 50 or 60 Feet
and the Height
including the Parapet between 70 and 80. The Descent of the Canal to it is by 5
Locks closely succeeding each other, every one of them having under it a large
circular Bason to supply the necessary waste of water. The Cut from the main
Body to
Glasgow is 3 Miles in length: it is
conducted over 3 Bridges of amazing Strength and Solidity, each consisting of a
single Arch of about the same Dimensions as those of the Aqueduct: and ends at a
Place called
Port Dundass greatly above the
level of the Town. The great Level is 156 Feet above the Sea, and it descends on
one side by 19 on the other by 20 Locks. It carries
Vessels of
150 Tons Burden being 8 Feet deep. The Expence of constructing it is stated at
£250,000.
Friday 9th. August.
Sailed from Glasgow down the Clyde to Dunbarton, and saw on each side a pleasant Country, but not
striking or picturesque. The Town of
Dunbarton is built on a Flat, close to the River Leven. It is a small Town and carries on an
inconsiderable Trade with Ireland. The Rock,
on the Summit of which the Castle is built,
stands perfectly insulated on a Plain extending 2 Miles on all sides, exhibiting
the curious and almost unparallell’d Phenomenon of a Height or Mountain totally
aloof from any other Eminence. From the River or the Plain, even at
a small distance it appears diminutive and almost contemptible,
nor is but by a near Approach that we discover it’s great Extent, it’s Height
and impracticable Abruptness. It is naturally divided into 2 Parts or Rocks
nearly equal, between which in the inside there is a Passage by a Flight of
Stairs overhung by large Pieces of the Rock which seem to be critically
poised.
Captain Robertson a Brave Veteran, and a Man of
the most obliging Politeness conducted us over the
Castle. From Him we learnt that it is 1 English Mile in
Circumference, and the Rock 567½ Feet high. He shew’d us a spring almost at the
highest Elevation sufficient
in case of a Siege to supply 1500 Men. In a Cistern supplied by
another spring He shew’d us a Trout which has lived there for 20 Years. In a
late repair order’d by Government in digging to the Foundation a small Piece of
Artillery was discover’d of a singular Make. It is of a Calibre of 1 Pound, but
in stead of Trunnions to mount it on a Carriage it has a long Handle each End of
which joins the Barrel, and is just of Weight enough to be carried by a Strong
Man according to the suppos’d Intention. In service it was most probably placed
on the Ground or any other casual support that might offer itself.
^We saw here the Sword of S
r.
W
m. Wallace,
justly esteem’d the
Greatest of those Heroes whom Scotland has produced, and to whom the fond and
hyperbolick Admiration of his Countrymen has ascribed Qualities which exist only
in Fiction.
Some Parts of this Rock seem to possess a magnetical Property, for by making an
Experiment with a Needle the North Pole was sometimes attracted and sometimes
repell’d, and according to different Positions pointed to all Qarters [sic]
of the Horizon: and this Variety of Effects took place within the Compass of a
Yard.
To the North of the Castle there lies a Fragment fallen from the Rock for a time
immemorial, the size of which
is astonishing. It appears in bulk
equal to the Hull o a 1
st. Rate Line of Battle Ship,
and the surface of it next to the Castle is an exact Duplicate of the
perpendicular Face of the Rock at the foot of which it lies. Fragments of the
Rock frequently loosen and are precipitated, and
Captain
Robertson related to us two Accidents of that Kind, which were
nearly attended with fatal Consequences.
Lord
Cassilis, who was Governor about 60 Years ago, intending to take
an Airing in his Carriage had it drawn up in the usual Place: (where the Rock is
perfectly perpendicular): the servant had open’d the Door, and was holding it in
that manner ready for his Lordship to enter,
who was at the
Instant at a small distance giving some Instructions to the People around Him,
when in the Interval a prodigious Fragment flew from the summit of the Rock, and
pitching on the Top of the Carriage dash’d it in pieces, the servant escaping
unhurt. The second Instance is of his own Daughter, a Beautiful Young Woman, who
passing near the same spot about 20 Pieces of Stone of the size of a Man’s Head
came thundering down about 3 or 4 Yards behind Her.
The importance of his impregnable Rock during the Civil Discords in Scotland is
sufficiently known, and
accordingly it became the scene
^of one of the most gallant Enterpri
z
^ses recorded in History.
When Lennox was Regent of Scotland during the
Minority of James 1st. and Deposition of his
Mother this Castle was then in the Hands of the Queen’s Partizans
and Lord Fleming was Governor. Capt. Crawford of Jordan
Hill a Man of invincible Resolution and Enterpize form’d the
desperate and seemingly impracticable Scheme of taking it by Surprize, being in
the Regent’s Interest. The Plan and
Practicability of the Attempt were explain’d to Him by a Soldier who having
serv’d in
the Garrison was acquainted with it’s accesses, and
was urged to this Piece of Treachery by Disgust and resentment arising from some
ill wage which He had experienced in the Garrison. Accordingly towards the
Evening of the 24
th. March 1571
Capt. Crawford left
Glasgow with a small by determind Band and reach’d
the Rock towards mid-night: the Moon was up but
overcast with clouds and afforded them just light enough to lead them to their
dreadful Purpose without hazard of Discovery. After having surmounted incredible
Difficulties, and vanquish’d many unforeseen Accidents with great Presence of
mind they arriv’d at the foot
of a Pa
^rapet wall 10 or 12 Feet high closer to the Guard House (whic [
sic]
is still standing) and which it was their Chief object to surprize when a
trifling Accident had nearly disconcerted this daring Plot. The 1
st. Man who ascended was seiz’d with a Fit while yet
on the Ladder, but
Capt. Crawford, one of
those whose Faculties are only sharpen’d by Danger tied Him fast and then turn’d
up the other side. He led the way was seen by the Centinel as He mounted, whom
He instantly cut down: his gallant Companions enter’d
the Castle with triumphant Shouts where they met with no
resistance. He accomplish’d his Purpose without the Loss of a single man, and
was rewarded with the Command of it.
Lord
Fleming had just time to escape half naked in a Boat across the
Clyde.
It may be mention’d among the Curiosities of this that
Capt. Robertson who at
present has the Command is in Countenance and Person extremely like
the Present King, and He tells a pleasant Story of
his having been saluted by the Guard of
St. James’s in consequence of being
mistaken for Him.
Saturday 10th. August.
Walk’d to the delightful and romantick Village of Luss, situated on Loch-Lomond in a beautiful little Valley, having behind it a
fine Skreen of Hills, exhibiting from the water a most lovely Scene. We walk’d
for about 5 Miles along the Banks of the pleasing Stream
of the Leven, running through a
rich verdant
Valley which it fertilizes & embellishes. All along this Track to the Mouth
of the River issuing from
L. Lomond the
Country is wonderfully pleasant, highly cultivated, and abounds with fine
Plantations. The Road to
Luss is excellent
being well shaded having the Appearance for some Miles of a delightful Avenue.
About 2 Miles from
Dunbarton we meet with a
Pillar erected, at a Village called
Rantyn, by
Mr. Smollet of Bonhill to the memory
of the Celebrated
Dr.
Smollet who was born on this spot, so elegantly described by Him
in
one of his last Poetical
Productions. In this Vale and along the River’s side lies
the pretty
Village of Bonhill, built in
detached Clustres [
sic], and extending almost the whole
length of the River: the Houses are small but neat and have slated roofs: close
to them are numerous Bleaching Greens and other Indications of Population and
Industry; and the whole Scene seems to be peculiarly the Seat of Competence and
Ease. Near
Luss we pass’d by
the Seat of
Sr. James Colquhoun standing in a most
elegant Situation on the borders of
the
Loch, and commanding and extensive View of it’s surface, many of
it’s Islands, and the distant mountainous Boundaries.
This Loch is 35 English Miles in length: it’s greatest breadth
is 8: but about 5 Miles from
Luss it becomes very narrow, and continues so for 20 Miles. It
is bounded on all sides by high Hills, and towards the North is seen the
towering Height of
Ben Lomond: there are 24
Islands, some of them 2 or 3 Miles in circumference, extremely well wooded, and
adding greatly to the Beauty and Richness of the Scenery.
It is impossible by words to convey an adequate Idea of this enchanting
Landscape: the Eye is bewilder’d in it’s numerous Mazes, and almost fatigued
with the Variety of Objects presented to it, while the Fancy pleasingly
exercised in contemplating the different Scenes exhibited to it is lost in
their endless, and inexhaustible Combinations. Sometimes we see a
broad Expanse of water with Rich and Verdant Isles beautifully grouped, and
floating on the Surface of the Lake: at other times the Landscape covers almost
it’s whole surface, which is only seen by glimpses, defining with it’s Silvery
touch the Boundaries of the different Islands and Objects that enter into this
grand Composition. — Sometimes when the Sun is setting behind the Mountains we
see their shadows projecting to the very Verge of the Horizon & spreading a
dark Veil over the whole Landscape: and sometimes when his Rays shoot through
the Vallies
it gilds the Sides of the Mountains, shewing by
contrast their black contiguous Ridges: and it terminates in the distant Hollows
of the Mountains discovering their deep Defiles, their vast Cavities and
immeasurable Bulk: but this Light is beautifully soften’d and diversified when
it flows smoothly over the level Surface of the Scene, shedding a lambent Smile
on the whole Face of this lovely Groupe.
I ascended to the Top of Ben Lomond and saw a
most extensive Prospect, from the German
Ocean at the Mouth of the Firth of
Forth to the Irish Sea. The
View was great, but not so pleasing as might be conjectur’d: for at that height
all the
Objects are too much under the Eye, and lose their grouping and
comparative Dignity. It had more the appearance of a Map than a Landscape. I
could trace the
River Leven from it’s Source
at
L. Lomond, with all it’s Inflexions,
until it falls into the
Clyde at
Dunbarton. The Day was in general very fine, but
now and then a Mist or Scud passed over the Mountain, so that I saw this wide
Prospect with alternate Splendor and Gloom. I could distinctly count all the
Islands of the Loch the most considerable of which are
InchMain;
Inch Calloch,
Carlin’s (Old Mans) Island so called from being the Burying Place of the M
cGrigors;
8
Inch Lonach, entirely cover’d with Yew Trees
about 1500 in number:
Devannah or Monk’s
Island where formerly there was a Monastery; and another call’d
for what reason I know not,
Luss Prison.
The Loch itself was diminish’d in
appearance to the size of a Pool, and it required my former Experience of it’s
dimensions to assign it its proper rank in this grand assemblage. Towards the
side of
Argyleshire I saw nothing but
immense Ranges of Mountains hiding the champain Country from view. East-ward
close to the Foot of the Mountain runs the Water of Alloa
9 through the
Vale of Monteith; a Region
“Forlorn and Wild,
“The Seat of Desolation void of Light”:
10
and seemingly more fit for the Haunt of Dæmons and Wild Beasts
than for the comfortable Abode of Human Beings. This Place was formerly the
Residence of the murderous and vindictive Clan of the M
cGrigors, a Name detestable to every Lover of Humanity. The opposite
side of the Lake was inhabited by the Colquhouns, and between these and the M
cGrigors there subsisted a mutual Jealousy &
perpetual Warfare. The Murder of the Colquhouns the fatal catastrophé that
terminated those bloody Feuds is known to Every one the least conversant in
Scotch History. It seems that the immediate Cause of this Massacre was owing to
the Colquhouns’ having inflicted summary Execution on one of
the M
cGrigors who was detected in stealing a sheep.
A Meeting was appointed to adjust this and various other Differences, to which
the M
cGrigors under their chief
Rob Roy McGrigor came
armed, surprised the Colquhouns, and made an undistinguishing Slaughter of Them:
and to consummate this horrible Cruelty, they pursued and murder’d in cold
^blood a number of People, chiefly Young Men from the
College of
Dunbarton who were standing on
the Top of a Hill, (which I saw) innocent spectators of the scene.
This infamous Atrocity was retaliated by a signal Act of Vengeance, and of a
nature unprecedented in the History of Man.
No Decree ever issued by any Human Power was more severe, or follow’d up with a
more merciless and merited Execution. All sympathy with Them as partaking of a
Common Nature was declared to be dissolv’d: they were pronounced to be Enemies
to their Species: their very Name as abhorrent to Human Nature was extinguish’d,
and it was made Felony in any Clergyman to give it in Baptism. Orders were
issued to pursue Them in all Directions and fall on them without mercy whereever
they could be found, and the Murder of a Mc. Grigor
was not a Crime
but a Merit. Such of Them as attempted to save
Themselves by flying to the Hills which were inaccessible to Men, were track’d,
hunted down like Wild Beasts, and tak’n or torn in pieces by Dogs of
extraordinary Fierceness and Strength. The miserable Remnant who succeeded in
saving Themselves went into the different Parts of the Country, and assumed the
prevalent names in those Places where they settled. This salutary Act of Justice
produced many beneficial Consequences by restraining that bloody Spirit of
Revenge, the Consequence of Hereditary Feuds which had always actuated the
Highland Clans.
Monday 12th. August walk’d to Araquhar:
on
Loch Long, and next Day
to
Cairndow on
L.
Fine.
v
The approach to this Place lies through the tremendous Defiles of Glencro and Glenkinglass: one of the grand and aweful Passes into
Highlands. For about 12 Miles this Glen which is hemm’d in on both sides by
amazing high, and craggy ^Rocks, exhibits a savage
Grandeur truly dreadful; nor is there any symptom of Vegetation or Track of a
Dwelling to check the unabating Horror of the scene.
Wednesday 14th. Walk’d to Inverary.About 2 Miles from Inverary a noble Prospect opens to view. The Centre Object is
the Duke of Argyle’s Castle situated
on a fine Lawn, and having behind it a Majestick Amphitheatre of
Wood: on the left is
the neat Town
charmingly built on the Edge of the Lake which presents a Wide Expanse of Water
cover’d with hundreds of Herring Boats, animating the Place, and giving it an
appearance of lively Industry: and on the right hand rises the lofty Cone of
Dunecoich surmounted with Wood.
The Castle is built in the Gothick Stile with 4 flanking Towers like Bastions
with Battlements on the Top, and a Square Tower in the middle: a mode of
Architecture incapable of the Noble Elevation, the regular Proportions, and the
rich and dignified Elegance of
a Grecian Front. The Inside with
a few exceptions is very fine. The Dome over the Vestibule is too high, and is
almost lost to the Eye on entering the House. The Dining and Drawing Rooms are
particularly worthy of Notice, the Paintings and Gildings with the other
Decorations being executed in the highest Stile of Elegance and Taste. In the
Drawing Room there are some
Pieces of Gobelin
Tapestry which are exquisite. The Subjects are Pastoral and truly in
the Taste of the French, a People who, although they have excell’d almost in
every Art and Science, have by a strange Fatality been marked by a wide
Departure
from Nature both in Fiction and Philosophy. Here we saw
Parisian Sheperds [
sic] with “Chapeau bras” and Coats of Courtly Cut, silk
stockings and neatly pointed shoes, approaching in Opera attitudes to ravish
Kisses from tonish sprightly Milliners, who seem not very solicitous to repel
these bold advances. The Flocks which are feeding around them, and whose silent
Indifference is the very Essence of such a scene, are unnaturally made to cast
sympathyzing looks on these amorous Couples. But amidst this absurdity the
Workmanship challenges our admiration, and is superior to all criticism. The
Figures are finely drawn,
the Colours are beautifully bright, and the Shading manages with
such Delicacy and Softness, that it is necessary sometimes to approach them in
order to be satisfied that it is not Effect of the Pencil.
The Herring Fishery is the great Support of this Country and it’s Neighbourhood.
There are about 3000 Boats employ’d on the Loch, each carrying 4 Men. At Sunset
they set sail and assume their different Stations; for the Fish can only be
taken in the Night: they then let down their Nets which are more than 100 Yards
long to the depth of 50 to 60 Fathoms, which they draw up towards the morning,
and Instances have been of a single Net’s enveloping 10,000 Fishes.
About 60,000 Barrels are salted and sent to
the West Indies as Food for the Negroes, besides
the immense Quantity which the Country People lay in for Winter Stock, and the
great Consumption of the fresh Fish; for the chief sustenance of the People in
this Quarter of the Kingdom consists of Herrings and Potatoes, which last are
accordingly much cultivated here. The Average Price is about 10 a Penny. August
15
th. Walk’d to
Dalmalie along a most barbarous Country. This delightful
Village is situated near the Head of
Loch
Awe:
vi13
and about 2 Miles distance from it on the Border of the Loch are the remains of
Kilchurn Castle, formerly the Residence
of the Earls of Breadalbane and built by
Sr. Colin Campbell Founder
of that Family. It was built by Him in the Year 1440, after his
Return from the Crusades: it is in the Saracenic Stile of Architecture, which He
introduced into
Scotland. The Principal
Tower next the front [
sic] of the Building is square and high, having
Turrets at each Angle most beautifully rounded at the Bottom, appearing as
entire and fresh as in a Modern Building, and indeed all the architraves of the
Windows and the Coign [
sic] Stones of the Tower had the same appearance. It
is one of the finest Ruins which I have ever seen. It is sufficiently
dilapidated to give it the venerable air of antiquity, but we can exactly trace
out the original Design of all its Parts. There is something singularly
melancholy in viewing the prostrate
Remains of these Edifices,
not intended merely as the Residence of Grandeur and Festivity, but likewise
constructed for Protection and Defiance: it reminds us solemnly of the
Transition of Human Greatness, and the uncontroulable changes which take place
not only in Men but in Ages themselves. The appearance in the Inside brought
forcibly on my Memory the affecting Passage of Ossian in Carthon one of his most
pathetic Compositions:
“I have seen the Walls of Balclu-
“tha, but they were desolate. The Fire had resoun-
“ded in the Halls: and the Voice of the People is
“heard no more. The Stream of Clutha roll’d mur-
“muring over the fallen Walls. The Thistle
“shook it’s lonely head: the Moss whistled to the
“Wind. The Fox look’d out from the Windows:
“the long Grass of the Wall waved round it’s
"it’s Head. Desolate is the Dwelling of Moina,
“Silence is in the House of Her Fathers.”14
At the distance of about 3 Miles from Kilchurn on an Island in the Lake call’d Fraochlyn (Heath Island) stand the massy remains of
another Castle in an impregnable Situation; but with regard to it’s Founder, and
the Purpose for which it was built, Tradition is silent.
August 17th. Walked to Tayndrum. It is a dreary, miserable Place. I here view’d the
Inside of a Highland Hut: at the door there were an Old Man and his Wife, each
past 80, assisting a Young Couple in shearing the Sheep. The Old People look’d
healthy and active. There was no accom^modation in it
beyond the reach of the Scanty means,
and uninventive
[...]
^Genius of a savage: in Nakedness and Misery it could
not be exceeded by the wigwam of a Hottentot. It’s Economy is simple and soon
described. There is only one Division or Partition in it: by it a small Portion
is set off for the Accommodation of the Family: the Fire is in the middle of
this Part, and above it an aperture in the Roof serving as a chimney, but the
Windows are occasionally used for the same purpose. Over the Fire is suspended a
chain with Hooks (call’d in the Lowlands a Crook) on which they hang their Pots
for boiling Meat; Roasting being necessarily unknown among them. The Beds are
ranged along the Wall each Department of this little Society, having according
to Circumstance a particular one assign’d to it. The other
Part
of the Hut which is by far the greatest is used to stow their Feuel, their
Instruments of Trade, Culinary Utensils, Food for their cattle, and occasionally
in severe weather the Cattle themselves. In these uncouth Dwellings to use the
Words of Tacitus applied to the Germans
Nations in a Civilized State are constantly and progressively making
Improvements, and changing the Structure of their Habitations, the Nature of
their Food, the Habits of their Life, and even their National character itself:
but Pastoral Tribes, living in a State of Simplicity, and scatter’d thinly over
a vast but unproductive Country, are in all those Particulars doom’d to a
Stationary Sameness:
the Arabs and Tartars will a thousand Years
hence be the same they were a thousand Years ago: and it is probable that about
the middle of last Century the Scotch Highlanders were not very different from
those who lived in the Days of
Fingal.
August 18th. Walk’d to Killin. this word signifies in the Gaëlic a Burying Place: as
it was here that Fingal was interr’d whose
Tomb is still shew’n. The Entrance into this very pleasant Village is singularly
Romantick. It is situated on a Peninsula on one side of which runs the
River Dochart, a broad and copious
Stream, and on ^the other the Lochay, both falling into Loch
Tay a Mile below Killin. The
Dochart close to the Bridge of
Killin by which we enter the place is
broken by numberless Rocks, twisting and eddying through
a vast
number of Channels, and hurrying over the rugged Fragments in hundreds of Rills
and Cascades. About 3 Miles from
Killin we
saw two
Falls of the Lochay, which are very
grand and little if at all inferior to
those of the
Clyde at Lanark.
The Parish of Killin extends 30 Miles, and
the whole Duty of it is perform’d by one Pastor, and his assistant.
The Country from Tayndrum to Killin is the Highest in Scotland; it is therefore
by the Highlanders call’d Braid Alba or
Albin: Braid signifies Head, Albin Scotland. At the Half-way House between
Tayndrum and Killin the Top of a Crozier was shew’n to us, which
the owner ignorantly called a Medal, of
Rich Workmanship, in the
possession of
a poor Man of the Name of Dewar,
certified under a Writing or Probate, sign’d by
James
1st. of
Scotland to have been in the possession of his Family since the
time of
Robert Bruce, and mention’d there as a
Sacred Relique of
St.
Fillan who first converted the
County of
Perth to Christianity.
August 20th. Walk’d to Kenmore or Tay-mouth: the
course lay along the Banks of Loch-tay.
We began about 5 O Clock in the morning: the Dawn was clear and silvery: the Lake
was perfectly smooth, and an even mild Light being universally diffused over it,
the Face of it appear’d as if it had been polish’d and reflected the opposite
Country,
which was High and sloped down regularly to the Outline
of the Lake, with all it’s Fields, Woods and the surmounting Hills with as clean
and precise a Definition as could have been produced by a Mirror. The Loch is on
all sides surrounded with Greatness. Towards
Killin we saw it magnificently terminated by
the Hill of Benmore, one of the Highest in
Scotland, rising in Elevation to the Eye
as we encreas’d our Distance from it, and sinking the scenery approximate to it
in proportion, an appearance familiar to those who have travell’d in mountainous
Countries. We visited in our way
Ld. Breadalbane’s Hermitage, from a Window of which,
contrived on purpose, there is seen a Cataract 140 Feet high
rushing down from the muddel of an amphitheatre of Wood at about 60 Yards
distance.
Ld. Breadalbane’s
Seat here is admirably situated: there is a very broad walk or
rather Terrace in his Park running 3 Miles along
the
Tay particularly entitled to Admiration.
vii
August 21st. Parted with my Friend Mr. Booth.
I walk’d to Dunkeld along the Tay: on both sides of which I observ’d a great
Number of Gentleman’s seats with their Policies (Plantations): and abundance of
Farm Houses neatly built, and around them a fruitful and highly cultivated
Country, giving Employment to a numerous Peasantry at that time employ’d in
getting in the Harvest.
Some way beyond the 7th. Mile Stone I was surprised
at the Appearance of 4 stones standing perpendicularly in a Field near the Road
upon a small Hillock.17 On going up and examining it, I found it
to be the remains of Druidical Temple, and could trace the Situation of the
other stones, and even the Vestiges of the Entrance very distinctly, according
to the perfect Model discover’d a few Years ago at Jersey, and now erected in General
Conway’s
Grounds at Henley. It occurs to me at this
moment, as a singular Circumstance, that having formerly walk’d about 50 Miles
in different Directions in the Island of
Anglesey the Chief Seat of the Druids, and of consequence the
Emporium of their superstition, I met with no Monument of a similar Kind. — The
highest Stone in this was 10 Feet from the Ground, about 4 in breadth and 6
Inches in thickness.
The Access to Dunkeld is thro’ a deep Glen
guarded on each side by high Hills of steep Ascent, cover’d with Pine Woods
through which we sometimes see the Rocks looking down majestically on the River Tay. This Scene continues for about 3
Miles. Dunkeld stands close to the River,
embosom’d in Woods and Eminences that surround it, exhibiting a beautiful Coup
d’œil, and singular in that Beauty. It has the Depth of Salvator Rosa without his Horror: it has the Richness and
chastity of
Claude Lorrain
though not his Extent and Variety.
In looking down upon the Town from Hill to
the Westward of it, the Buildings appear without any Exception regular and
uniform: The Walls are all white: the Roofs are slated, and as the streets run
in straight lines, the Houses appear from that view arranged in even Rows. Here
the Duke of Athol has a seat: his House is commodious but no ways remarkable. It
was here that the late Duke in a fit of Fury
and Derangement, the Effect of a Fever, eluded his Keepers and drown’d Himself
in the River. He is universally spoken of in this Country as having been a Man
of the most amiable character.
August 22
d. Walk’d to
Blair.
The Castle at this Place which is well Known to have stood a Siege in the Year
1746 is now modernized, and is a Residence of the Duke of
Athol.
In this route I went through the famous Pass of
Killycrankie. It has infinitely more Grandeur with a less
mixture of the Horrible than any of the numerous Defiles which I have as yet
seen in the Highlands. I must not omit to mention that near the
begginning [sic] of it I met with another
Cromleach with 6 of the Stones standing and unbroken.
August 23. Went from Blair to Killycrankie and view’d the Field of Battle fought
between Lord Dundee and General McKay, on July 7th. 1789.
From examining the Nature of the Ground
Dundee’s Disposition appears to have been as masterly, as that
of his opponent was weak and injudicious. His first Position was on the Face of
a very extensive Hill which in a manner flanks the Pass: at the Foot of it there
is a Plain bounded by a Bank towards the River, and the Flat of the Defile. On
the appearance of
McKays Army He descended, and ranged his Troops on the
Plain. By this measure He secured an advantageous Ground, and an excellent
Retreat in case of a Disaster; as he could easily retire to his former
impregnable Situation.
McKay drew up his
Men close to the Bank upon a narrow Plain, a choice of situation subject to
innumerable Inconveniences without a single Advantage.
In the
first place his Retreat in consequence of a Discomfiture was cut off by the
Rivers
Gary and
Tay. His Horse and Artillery were absolutely useless, there
being no Room for either to act on the Front of the Highlanders. As the Plain
was so narrow He could not change his Line of Battle, and was therefore exposed
to being outflanked by
Dundee’s Army, who
could choose their mode of fighting; and which actually took place. As the Pass
was close to the Scene of Battle, it encreas’d the Confusion when an impetuous
Enemy poured down upon them and broke their Ranks.
The unfortunate Event might have been prevented in two ways. He might have pass’d
the River Gary immediately on leaving the
Defile, when He could have drawn up his Army on a Rising Ground with the River
in their Front, and so render’d the attack of the
Highlanders, who depended on their broad swords, useless and dangerous: by
keeping them for a long time expose to a galling and destructive Musquetry, in
which his Men must have been superior, as more steady and practiced.
The other Mode was to have maintaind a running Battle on the same Plain where the
Struggle took place, and in the Course of 2 Miles’ March He would have arriv’d
on a level Ground, with sufficient space for 50,000 men to act. This was the
last of the great Actions perform’d by the Highlanders, as Dundee is the last of those Heroes whose memory they
cherish with a fond and superstitious Veneration.
Tradition has
here conferr’d on one man at least a local Immortality. His Name was
Donald Gorme: it appears that He was a Man of great
bodily Strength, as well as of Courage: during the Flight of
McKay’s Men across the
River He planted himself in the place where there was the greatest Press, and
was observ’d to cut down 13 Men with his Claymore: but a Horseman from the
opposite side who had recover’d from his Pannic took a fatal aim at Him, and
shot him dead.
August 25th. Walked to Dalnacardoc
26th. To Dalwhinie by the Glen of
Dramoochquhar.
27th. To
Fort Augustus over the tremendous
Mountain of Corriaarack, and crossing
my Native River the Spey at Garviemore. These 3 Stages and particularly
the last are over a wild and barbarous Country: the Road from
Dalwhinie to
F.
Augustus is shocking.
The Fort is in a beautiful situation at one
end of the Loch Ness: the Garrisoning of it
is now a mere Formality
August 28. Walk’d to the Fall of Fyers the
greatest in Scotland. The whole Body of the
River Fechloyn is confin’d at the Top between two Rocks,
forming a very narrow Passage for the Water, which is precipitated from this
Place to an amazing Depthxviii below, and enlarging it’s Dimensions at it descends; until
it is plunged and swallow’s up in a deep Gulf, the water of which is so
infuriated, and throws up such Volumes of spray, that it’s surface cannot be
seen.
As far as I could judge by the Eye it was double the Height
of the three Columns that compose
the Fall at
Stone-Byers.
This Night I slept at a miserable Hut on a Bed of Straw and Pillow of Fern, with
a Coarse Blanket under me, and two by way of Cover: I could in the Morning see
Parts of the Landscape through many a cranny in the walls, and there was
abundance of Light from above. It was however the ordinary Repose of a Celtick
Beauty, Daughter of the woman of the House, who probably was better accommodated
than thousands of her Countrywomen. Fatigue like Virtue is its Reward for I
never slept sounder.
August 29. Walked to Inverness along
the Loch, which was uniformly grand: the
Road in general good, and semingly [sic]
made with prodigious Difficulty, running over solid Rock for a
great way, blown and levell’d on purpose. — Arrived in
Inverness.
This Place may be stiled the Capital of the
Highlands as it takes the lead of every other in this District
of the Country in Population, in Trade and in Fashion. The Number and Burden of
the Shipping in the Harbour did not seem to indicate any considerable Commerce,
and I believe the chief Article of Export if Salmon of which they send a great
Quantity to England and Foreign
Countries
The Country around Inverness is beautiful and
fertile; they were going on briskly with their Harvest at this time
and had gotten the start of their Southern Neighbours by a
Fortnight. This superior Earliness of the Harvest is owing to their dry
Situation and Proximity to the Sea. — The Town itself is neither large, nor well
built, nor very clean owing to it’s being in a low Situation. There is a
singular Hill called the
Tomanewry which is
a great ornament to it’s Neighbourhood. It is completely detached from any other
Eminence, is cover’d with a beautiful Wood, and exactly resembles a Ship’s Hull
with the Keel uppermost. Between
Ft. augustus and this Place I saw a Hill not a little
resembling
the Rock of Dunbarton, much of
the same size and like it completely insulated.
The Castle of Inverness is now
completely ruined, and it’s Fate was rather singular; for it did not perish by a
gradual decay, but fell by the Effect of a Frost in one enormous Mass. in it
Duncan King of Scots was murder’d by
the Usurper Mc.Beth, an Event immortalized in
one of the most exalted Productions of Human
Genius.
As this place is well calculated as a Resort for Education to the Young Highland
Gentry, an Academy has lately been endow’d here by Subscription, where the same
mode of Education is pursued which prevails in the Scotch Colleges. I should
regard the Man who would found a College in this Remote Corner of the United Kingdoms as entitled to the Veneration
and Gratitude of Scotland,
and an essential Benefactor to the whole Island.
Augt. 31st. Left
Inverness on my Route to Fort George, passing over a most dreary Region of
Silence, Barrenness and Horror. About 4 Miles from the Fort I met with a
Curiosity the chief perhaps of it’s kind in the Island
of Great Britain. It is a Cromleach composed of two Concentric
Circles, the exterior of which measured in Diameter 35 of my Paces or 83 feet:
the Stones, of which there was a prodigious number, were of incredible size, and
must have been brought from a considerable distance, for I could see no Place in
the Neighbourhood where it was likely that they were produced.19 Surely we are accustom’d to hold distant Ages in excessive
and undeserv’d Contempt; for the
Mechanical Skill required in
this Erection must have been very great, & perhaps could not be exceeded in
modern times. — It was mention’d to me that in those Places of
Scotland where Cromleachs are found the Inhabitants
in the Neighbourhood can assign by tradition a Name to every Stone, which is a
Designation of it’s particular Purpose or use in the general assemblage: such as
the Stone of Sacrifices (which were unquestionably Human): Stone of the Altar
&c.
Fort George in which I slept this Night is a
beautiful, regular and strong Fortification, and constructed according to the
System of Vauban. The Barracks are built in 3
Quadrangles inside of the Fort and under cover, their Roofs
being
no higher than the Ramparts, and the Casemates and Magazines are Bombproof.
There is a most delightful Walk round the Ramparts.
The 3 Forts along the Lochs were at first intended to repress the disaffected
spirit of the Highlanders, by introducing a Military Force into the very Vitals
of their Country, and cutting off the Communication between the Northern and
Western Clans: but soon after this Scheme was executed, there arose a Man who
went far beyond the Views of Vulgar Politicians, and knew that the mind was not
to be subdued by external Force.Lord Chatham
in the War which He so successfully conducted against France would not allow the martial Disposition of the
Highlanders to lie dormant and
useless, but gave Commissions to
their Chiefs who accordingly brought their adherents into the Army, and ever
since they have been as zealous in the Service of the House of Brunswick as they
were formerly in their Devotion to the Stuarts.
On my way to Fort George I view’d the Scene of Battle fought on Culloden Moor on
16th Apl 1764: a Day which annihilated the Glory
of one of the most illustrious Families that Europe had ever known, over which
Fortune had exercis’d a Capricious and Tyrannical Sway: the Individuals as well
as the whole Race having ^alternately enjoy’d her
Smiles, and been subject to her Scourge; and as the Morning of their Lives rose
with Transcendant Splendor, so it was
generally overtaken by a
premature and disastrous Obscurity.
ix
It may be safely pronounced that the Issue of that Rebellion was highly
beneficial to Scotland. The Mortification of
the severe Defeat which they had sustain’d sunk deeply in the Minds of the
Highland Clans, and made them regard all further Resistance to the Establish’d
Government as desperate and unavailing. An arm’d Force was introduced into their
Country and for the first time a standing Army watch’d all their Motions, and
render’d any Combination among them impossible. The Legislature had a Pretence,
and possess’d the Abiltiy to crush those Allodial Jurisdictions exercised by the
Chieftans of the
different Clans, which made every one of them
regard it’s own Head as their only Legitimate Ruler; and their Duty to Him often
superseded every Obligation of Loyalty and Justice. As soon as this Power was
withdrawn ––––– the spirit of Clanship and enthusiastick atttachment to their
Hereditary Leaders immediately began to decay: for although the Indigenous
Spirit of every Tribe, and it’s separate and exclusive Union together with their
general Love of Ancestry still remain’d, yet their Chiefs thus stripp’d of
Authority could no longer inspire Terror, the commanding Principle of Political
Obedience, and even of affection among Men. This Constitution of Clanship was
very inconsistent, or rather
absolutely incompatible with Civil
Government, every Part in such a System having irreconcileable [
sic]
Prejudices, and considering it’s own Interests as totally separated from the
General Welfare. It besides nourish’d a martial or rather a ferocious
Disposition among the Highlanders, being the source of numberless & immortal
Broils, which were continually calling forth their Exertions against each other.
But this Disposition became extremely formidable when, as was frequently the
case, it was exercised in Rebellion against the Sovereign Power of the Country:
it was for centuries the Scourge and Terror of the Government in
Scotland, nor can we regard the Highland Clans as
forming a united and effective Branch of the Scottish Nation under it’s Old
Kings.
Now that these Mountaineers enjoy a Community of Privileges with
their Fellow Subjects, and as their Ancient Habits decline they discover every
day a greater Aptitude for Civil Government & Society. It makes People of
inferior Understanding Smile to observe, that so great a Genius as
Lord Kaimes should lament the decay of their Warlike
Disposition,
21 and
consider that part of their Character as most meritorious which for Ages
involved themselves and their Country in perpetual Confusion: but they still
retain Qualities which constitute them excellent Soldiers, Courage, Obedience,
Fidelity and Perseverance.
The Battle which seems for ever ^to have decided their
Fate was fought
on
an extensive
Moor open in all directions for many Miles; a fair Field of
Contention where there was neither Advantage to the Victors nor Retreat for the
Vanquish’d. It was fought in a manner characteristick of the different Qualities
of the two Contending Nations; on the part of the Highlanders with a generous
& impetuous Valour, opposed by the other army with a cool and determin’d
Bravery.
In this route through the Highlands beginning
at Dunbarton & ending at Inverness the Roads are excellent with the
Exception of that from Tayndrum to
Killin, and from Garviemore to Ft. Augustus, the first 22 the other 18 Miles. These
are called
Military Roads, having been executed by the different
Regiments stationed in the Country after the Rebellion. The Expence was defray’d
out of the Income of the Forfeited Estates and a Sum has been funded, annually
producing £5000, at the disposal of Commissioners, for their Repair. They were
intended for the wise purpose of facilitating the Intercourse between Remote
Country and the other Parts of the Island, and perhaps to make it more
accessible in case of Rebellion. How far this Measure may tend to produce an
Identity of Language, Manners, and Modes of Thinking between the Highlanders and
their Southern Neighbours it is not easy to ascertain: but it certainly will
require
a great length of Time, perhaps Ages, for that purpose.
It is amazing over what a Tract of
Scotland
the Gaëlick Language still extends. The Line of Demarcation between the two
Tongues seems to begin from
St. George, going by
Nairn, and then South East 20 Miles West of
Elgin and
Fochabers thence by
Bremar
on the
River Dee, from thence all along the
Western Boundary of
Angus Shire, and then in
a Straight line to
Dunbarton; a Tract equal
to two thirds of the whole Extent of
Scotland: all to the North and West of this Boundary speak
Gaelick.
along this Route we found the People universally attentive, civil, and obliging,
with something of a Gentility of Manner
and Behaviour not to be
met with in the
Lowlands. Indeed from the
Borders to
Dunbarton they seem’d to possess little of the Character of the
North: they were sullen, sulky and uncivil; a character which I am afraid is too
just when applied to most of the Southern Scots. From
Dunbarton to
Inverness by a
Route 251 Miles in length I was never once solicited for charity although I met
Multitudes of needy Objects. Many of Them who have come a very considerable
Distance (sometimes about 2 Miles) to point out the way would not accept of
money when offer’d to them; which I believe would rarely occur south of the
Tweed. I have a pleasure in bearing this
Testimony to the Character of a Peo
^ple who among us are
prejudg’d, and look’d on as a race of Savages and Enemies to every Civil Virtue.
Whoever can travel in this Country with Indifference has neither Eyes to see,
nor a Heart to feel. Great Caution is to be observ’d in taking the Report of the
Highlanders and Lowlanders relating to each other: there prevails between them
an inveterate & illiberal Antipathy, similar to Protestants and Roman
Catholicks in
Ireland, nor do I know of any
other Parallell in this respect of the three Kingdoms.
September 1
st. Walk’d to
Forres. It is a neat clean Town, and situated in a
Rich and Delightful Country. The View from some Eminences in the Neighbourhood
extends over almost the whole Rich and Productive Plain of
Murray Shire, the Granary of
Scotland, and the finest Corn Country in
the Island of Great Britain: we saw a most
extensive Range of dry and level Country cover’d with Fields of Wheat, Oats, and
Barley and deficient in Nothing by Pasturage which seems to be comparatively
trifling.
x23 An English Spectator
would be very much deceiv’d in estimating the Riches of this fine Province: for
altho’ the whole surface of the Soil which is
deep and
luxuriant, is cover’d with the most abundant Crops, yet, owing to the want of
Hedges and Inclosures as in
England where
they sometimes disguise a natural Sterility of the Country, the Prospect has a
bare and naked Aspect. This View comprehends the Hills of
Rossshire, the Entrance of the Famous
Bay of Cromarty; the Country in the Neighbourhood
of
Inverness, and
St. George; the
Town & Harbour of Findhorn, and the bold
Promontory of
Brough Head. This last is the
Gibraltar of
Murray-Shire. As this Part of
Scotland was the chief Theatre of the Ravages of the Danes they
fortified this Peninsula very strongly on the Landside, and towards the Sea it
was naturally impregnable, being
surrounded with deep water with
an excellent Harbour that afforded Shelter to the Ships which transported those
destructive Hordes of Free-booters. This was always their last refuge in case of
Misfortune and Defeat: as they were Masters of the Sea it was impossible for the
Scots to cut off their Retreat, or prevent their landing in that way. West of
Forres stand the
Remains of a Palace of
King
Duffus.
About ¾ of a Mile E. from Forres there is a
singular Curiosity, which has generally attracted the Notice of Travellers, and
long employ’d the Conjectures of Historians and Antiquaries. It is a Stone Column of the amazing Height of 23 Feet and
an
Experiment having been made some Years
^ago to ascertain the Foundation, they dug to the Depth of 14 Feet
finding the Stone still entire, when the Attempt was given up. The Pillar is
about a Yard broad, and about 9 Inches in thickness. The Surface towards the
North is cover’d with sculpture merely ornamental, without any particular
Design. The opposite or South Side seems intended to convey the Historical
Design of the Erection. It is divided into 3 Partitions or compartments. The
lowest contains on the right hand side some Human Figures, and on the left 3
Lions passant: the 2
d. is the most inexplicable: on
the right hand are a
24
number of Arm’d Men; on left an equal Number lying as if dead; in
the middle Representation of a Tower or Castle with two Figures like Lions
attempting to enter it’s Gate: in the middle of the highest Division there
stands a supereminent Figure of a larger Size, and seemingly better executed
than the Rest in a complete Highland Garb. This circumstance determines me to
believe that it is a Scottish, and not a Danish Monument, notwithstanding many
Opinions to the contrary. This Part of
Scotland was the Scene of such a multitude of interesting
Events, that, if we pretend to assign the precise Circumstance which it is
intended to
commemorate, we must depend entirely on arbitrary and
lawless Conjecture.
On my way to Forres I stopt at Calder, and saw the
Castle. In the Inside and Center of the Building there stands
the stem of a Thorn Tree, said to be coeval with the Foundation of the Castle;
but by what whim it was placed there, is not precisely known. On the Top of this
Castle there is a Room to which we ascend by a Ladder over the Roof where
Simon Lord Lovat was concealed after the
Battle of Culloden.
In one of the Rooms is preserv’d the Bed on which Duncan was murder’d by MacBeth: the Sculpture of it is Rich but artless, and very much in
the Stile of that
on the
Pillar at
Forres: the ornamental part especially, where there were no
Figures, was exactly the same in both, nor do I know what Inference to draw from
the similarity.
Septr. 3d. Walk’d to
Elgin. This Place is but the Shadow of
what it was.xi26 The great number of Remains of Ancient
Buildings which it contains give it a melancholy Aspect, but sufficiently
indicate what it was in the flourishing Days of it’s Wealth and Splendor. It has
greatly declined in consequence and Population; for about 40 Years ago it had
6306 Inhabitants, at present it has only 4534. The Country in it’s Neighbourhood
is exceedingly rich, and well cultivated.
Here I view’d
the Magnificent Ruins of the
Cathedral
The Western Front or Grand Entrance consists of two Square Towers, and between
these there is a Door with fine cluster’d Gothick Pilasters, supporting a Rich
and corresponding Arch. Half way between these Towers and the Eastern End, or
Termination of the Chapel, there are two others facing the North and South
projecting to a small distance on each side, so as to form a Cross with the Body
of the Cathedral, and their Fronts appear to be double of those of the Western
Entrance. Beyond these it narrows considerably forming the chancel which is the
most entire Part of the Building: it’s Eastern Extremity has
5 large Windows in the lower part, as many smaller over them, the whole
surmounted by a noble and circular one.
Between the middle Towers and the End of the Chancel there is a Projection on
each side of a singular kind, which when entire, must have been very grand. One
of these is no more, and can only be known to have existed by Analogy from
seeing the other, which is in a tolerable State of Preservation. It consists of
a straight Part issuing at Right Angles from the Body of the Chancel, and
terminating in an Octagon Tower; in the inside of which there is a Masterly
Achievement
of Gothick architecture, which is a Massy Dome of
Stone centrally supported by a single slender and beautiful Pillar, similar to
that which supports the Lobby of
Christ Church Hall in
Oxford. The Windows and ornaments in the Inside of the
Cathedral, and especially the Chapel are of the most beautiful, chaste and at
the same
^time fanciful Designs; and the trifling
Remains of the Arches are just sufficient to inform us what they have been.
The View of these Ruins as associated with a Retrospect of the Past presents one
of the most afflicting spectacles. This magnificent Temple, dedicated to
Religion, the Boast of a Kingdom, and the Wonder of Ages, lies now a most
deplorable
Wreck. — The two Towers on the West Entrance are so
loose, broken and disjointed that it appears with difficulty they can support
themselves, and I believe that a few Shocks of a Cannon Ball would hurl them
both in Ruins. On the North side, intervening between the Western Extremity and
the Chapel only one solitary Pillar remains. In the Inside huge Masses of the
fallen Walls, some of them equal to the Burden of a large Ship lie heap’d on
each other with the most ruinous Confusion. The Churchyard is cover’d with
Showers of Fragments that have fallen from time to time, some of which have
broken through large Grave Stones and buried themselves in the Earth. It appears
fast approaching the Verge of Annihilation
and that no Part of it
can stand for many Years.
This Cathedral was first built in 1224, but was destroy’d by a Goth named
Alexander Lord of Badanoch, I suppose an
Ancestor of the present Duke of Gordon. It was
rebuilt in 1414. It is 260 Feet in Length by 34.
About 6 Miles from Elgin stand the Ruins of Pluscardine Abbey, which are very
grand. it is situated on a small Eminence. The Body of the Building runs North
and South, the chapel or church projecting Eastward from it, and terminated on
the West Side by a Square Tower. To the North and South a Part of the Main Body
of the Building is set off, and joins the Tower, ––––– equal to
the Chapel in Elevation and considerably higher than the other Parts, so that
assuming the Tower is the Center It has the appearance of 3 Sides of a Maltese
Cross, and forms no bad Effect. The Rest of the Ruins seem to bespeak it
formerly to have been a Place of considerable Beauty and Consequence.
About a Mile and a half eastward from Elgin
we come to the Beautiful Loch of Speynie, on
the Borders of which there stand the massy Remains of a
Palace, improperly call’d a Castle, the residence formerly of
the Bishops of Murray. The Loch is many
Miles in Extent, and is cover’d with Wild Ducks and Geese: and is remarkable for
being the Resort
of the Wild Swans which generally come here
about the latter End of September to winter on the Lake. In the Neighbourhood
some some Parts of the Soil are so excellent,
that they appear equal if not superior to that of
the
Vale of White Horse in Berkshire, supposed to be the finest in
England.
Septr. 4th. Pass’d
the Spey within Gunshot of the Place,
celebrated for two great & similar Events; where Malcolm Kanmore, King of Scotland, cross’d the River to subdue
the Rebellious Clans of the North; and where the Duke of
Cumberland pass’d in 1746 to a similar Encounter. Close to this
Passage stands the Village of Fochabers,
built within 10 Years past upon a regular Plan, and very neat. At a small
distance stands
the superb Edifice of
Gordon Castle with it’s fine Grounds and Romantick Walks. About
4 Miles East of
Fochabers at
the Mouth of the Spey there is a Dock or Harbour
call’d
Kingston Port, where shops are built
of as large a Size as any in
Scotland and
entirely of Firs floated down the River from
the Forest
of Glenmore. There was one upon the stocks at this time of 700.
Tons burden. The Forest has been purchas’d by an English Company for a certain
Term of Years, and it is calculated that they float down 12,000 Pieces in a Year
for sale independant of the Timber employ’d in Ship building.
Walk’d to
Aberdeen by
Cullen,
Portsoy,
Bamff [sic],
Turreff,
Old-Meldrum,
Peterhead.
Cullen is a small Place of inconsiderable
Population or Trade. A Manufacture of Linen was establish’d and encouraged here
by the late Earl of Findlater, but It has
never arrived to any Extent.
Banff is pleasantly situated on the Sea Side
round a capacious Harbour, and carries on a comparatively considerable Trade.
The Country in this Quarter, and especially about Cullen, is pleasant and cultivated.
Turress is a small and
mean Place, and Old-Meldrum the most
wretched, to deserve the Name of a Town, which I have seen in the
North.
This Part of Aberdeenshire looks bare and
miserable; and still more so as we exchange the fertile Plains of Murray for this uncouth and sterile Scene. The
Country is by no means deficient in Natural Advantages, the soil appearing to be
good and practicable, although much neglected. The Lands and Farms are laid out
in a slovenly manner, and betray in the Owners a Want of Capital or
Encouragement; or shameful Negligence and Ignorance of Agriculture; or perhaps
all these
Disadvantages united
Aberdeen in point of Size, Population and
Trade is rank’d as the third City in Scotland. It is divided into 2 Parts the Old and New Town which
taken together extend from the mouth of River
Don on the North to that of the
Dee on the South about 2 Miles Distance, and within this compass
there are calculated to be 30,000 Inhabitants. The Town stands on a Hill which
slopes gradually towards the west and terminates suddenly and abruptly
[...]
on the Eastern side, on which stand the remains of the Castle.
The Harbour is capacious but somewhat difficult of Access and does
not admit Vessels of more than 500 Tones burden.
Journal of the Prince’s Escape after the Battle of Culloden.
–––––
16th. April 1746.
Was taken off the Field by Major Kennedy, while
the French & scotch Troops Kept the Duke of
Cumberland at bay Here He gave Orders for his Army to disperse.
17. Went to Tordarack, 9
miles from Inverness. To Aberardar in McIntosh’s Country 3 Miles.
Farlone in Lovat’s Country & thence
1 Mile more to Castlelaige or Gortulaige,
where They met Ld.
Lovat & drank a few Glasses of Wine. The Persons who
accompanied were; Sir Thomas Sheridan;
Sir David Murray; Alexander McLeod: John Hay; Edward
Burk; Allan McDonald27
Length of the Journey. Miles.
Notes &c:
The Highlanders call
Scotland
Alpin, whc. signifies a Mountainous Country,
and was probably the original Name of the whole Island from which the Romans
deriv’d their
Albion The Name of that chain
of Mountains dividing
France and
Italy viz:
Alps
is plainly of Celtick Extraction and synonimous with
Alpin. It is probable that the word
Scotland was originally
Schôtte-land which is tantamount in meaning to
Alpin for it is an obsolete German Vocable
signifying a Hill. It is not likely according to
Ossian McPherson’s Supposition that it is
derived from Scuyth a Celtick word signifying a Wanderer, because it is uncommon
to incorporate Words of different Languages (Land being undoubtedly Saxon) and
because it is unnatural for any People to impose on their Country a Name
involving
a stigma or reproach.
The
Shetland Isles (or Scotland Isles) still retain the old
Pronunciation.
Most Names of Places in Scotland are Gaelick
Viz:
Grampian Hills: from Grant, Great and Beinn
or Bean or Ben a Hill — Benmore is the Great
Hill: Ben-lomond, Bare green Hill:
Ben-ledy, Holy Hill; Ben-venue, small Hill.
Dun is probably a Heap of Buildings or a Town thus we have Dun-Edin or Edinburgh: Dun-barton:
Dun-dee: Dun-fermline &c.
Don signifies a deep River.
Glean or Glen signifies a valley open at both Ends: Strath a Valley through wc. a
River runs: Ach (Haugh) an extensive Flat.
Crom is a Circle, Cromleach a Circle of Stones or Druidical Temple: The
Expression in Erse “are You going to
Church”? signifies literally
“are You going to the stones.”?
28 — I imagine
that the Devotion of the Druids consisted in Solar Worship: it is the most
natural of all superstitions. There is one Relick of it remaining in
the Highlands to the present Day called Baaltein
which signifies the Fire of Baal or the Sun. It is a ceremony perform’d on the
1
st. of May. A number of People assemble and
bake a Cake in the open Air which they break into small bits, one of which is
blacked: they are put into a Bonnet, and every one draws one by chance, the
Person to whom the black Piece falls is obliged to jump 3 times over the Fire
but formerly it is probable, was consign’d to that Element as a Sacrifice to
their Deity
Tantum potuit Religio suadere malorum.29
Aber signifies Mouth: thus
Aberdeen means
Mouth of the
Dee:
Abernethy,
Abergeldy &c.
Leith signifies Mouth of the Water.
Ross means promontory: Kinross Head of the
Promontory: Montrose, Moin-ross, Fenny Promontory.
The Derivation of the Name of Inverary is
very curious. It is Ion-ar-as-reidh in the Gaelick. Ion-ar (Inver) worthy of
Tillage from Ion-worthy and ar, to Till as-reidh (dh is pronounced as y) Mouth
of a Rough River: so that this Word has the very comprehensive signification of
“a Fertile Piece of Ground at the Mouth of a Rough River” which gives us a high
Idea of the power of Combination in the Erse Language.
Lanark, contracted for Lav-ri-uisg (g is
pronounced as K) A Place near Water. Spay
River (Spadha, a Long Stride)
in Reference to
the Length of that Turbulent Stream. Most of the Names of Rivers in
Scotland are Celtick Words simply signifying Water
and I believe this to be the case in all Languages.
Morvern a Hilly Country. General Term for the
Highlands.
Spaut, Speat or Swelling of a River.
Logie, A Low, flat Country.
Drum, An Eminence, Tayndrum Hill of
the Tay.
Tulloch, a small Hill or Knock.
Melrose, pronounced by the Scotch Mullross, a bare Promontory.
Stron, a Nose or Promontory.
Clunee, a Pasture among Woods.
- Vol. Pent __ ___ 2
- Carys Map — 1
- Scone — 1
- Murray —
1
- Gents Tour
- 1 Scotland
delin. 1
- Roads – – 1
- Anislye —
1
- Sketches — 1
- Nonni — 3
- Gilpin —
1
- Map of Scot
- [...] S
- Compass
- Mirror
- Coloured Glass
- Brymen 1
- Memorand 1
Authorial notesi. In the Eruption of the Solway Moss a Cow-house in which
there were 6 Cows was overwhelm’d, 5 of which perish’d. The other remain’d
sunk up to the Head for 60 Hours without food. When liberated She ate
heartily but shew’d the utmost horror when water was set before Her; until
at length time or necessity cured her of this Aversion.
ii. On
the 26
th. January 1787.
the Clyde became suddenly dry above
Lanark, and stopp’d the Mills for 2 hours and afterwards
flowed on as usual. This curious Phenomenon has happen’d to many other
Rivers in
Scotland at different
times.
iii. the Palace at H.iv. Glasgow contains by the last Estimate 61,945 Inhabitants or
about ¾ of the Population of
Edinburgh,
to which in the Course of some Years it will probably be superior. It may be
called the Capital of the West as
Edinburgh is of the East of
Scotland.
v. From the Window of the Inn at
Arroquhar there is seen at a small
Distance a huge bare Rock on the Top of a Mountain called
the Cobler, from it’s whimsical and striking
Resemblance of a Cobler working at his Stall.
vi. The Fable relating to the Formation
of
Loch Awe is thus beautifully told by
Ossian: (Not publish’d by
Mc.Pherson)
“Bera the Aged dwelt in the
Cave of the
“Rock. She was the Daughter of Griannan
“the Sage: long was the Line of her Fathers
“and She was the last of her Race. Large
“and fertile were her Possessions: Her’s the
“beautiful Vales below, and her’d the Cattle
“which roam’d on the Hills around. To
“Bera was intrusted the Charge
of that
“aweful Spring which by the Appointment
“of Fate was to prove so fatal to the In-
“-heritance of her Fathers, and to her
“Fathers’ Race.
“Before the Sun should withdraw his
“Beams She was to cover the Spring
“with a Stone on which sacred and mys-
“-terious Characters were written. One
“Night this was forgotten by the un-
“-happy Bera. Overcome with the
Heat
“and Chace of the day, She was seized
“with Sleep before the usual time of
“Rest. The confin’d Waters of Moun-
“-tains burst forth into the Plains be-
“-low, and cover’d that large Expanse
“now Known by the Name of the Lake
“of Aw. The third morning
Bera
“awak’d from her sleep. She went to
“remove the Stone from the spring
“but behold no Stone was there. She
“look’d to the Inheritance of her Tribe
“She shriek’d! The Mountain shook
“from it’s base! Her Spirit retired to the
“Ghosts of her Fathers in their light and
“airy Halls.
The Mountain mention’d here is Ben
Cruachan. It is 1130 Yards above the level of the Sea
and 20 Miles in Circumference the
Loch is 30 Miles long and ¾ broad: it is 36 Yards above
the level of the Sea. The History of Fraochyn, the Hesperides of Scotland is given by the same Poet:
“The fair Mego longed for the
delicious
“Fruit of the Isle guarded by a
“a dreadful Serpent. Fraoch who
long
“had loved the Maid goes to gather
“the Fruit. By the rustling of the
“Leaves the Serpent was awaked from
“his sleep: he attack’d the Hero, who
“perish’d in the Conflict. The Mon-
“-ster was also destroy’d: Mego
did
“not long survive the Death of her
“Lover.”
vii. On the 12.th Sept
r. 1784 at 9 O Clock in the
Morning
Loch Tay suddenly left the East
End 300 Feet dry; it roll’d on 300 Feet farther, and met another wave
rushing in a Contrary Direction. The Collision rais’d them to the Height of
6 Feet: the whole Body then took a compound or lateral Direction Southward,
and went 4 Feet beyond the highest Watermark. — It ebb’d and flow’d every 7
Minutes for 2 Hours until it recover’d it’s Station.
viii. (x
200 feet.)
ix. After the Battle of
Culloden
the defeated Prince was guarded by
a Highlander of the Name of McKian (or
Kennedy). This Man’s Conduct affords a most illustrious
Example of Highland Courage and Fidelity. He expos’d his Life in every shape
to maintain Him in his concealment: He stole plunder’d and robb’d for this
pupose, when He Knew that by betraying his trust He could gain £30,000. At
last after He had effected his Escape, being impell’d by the direst
Necessity, in order to maintain his Family, He stole a Cow for which He was
tried and hang’d at
Inverness.
George the IId. who
could prize this Man’s Qualities. although an Enemy, declared if He had
known the Circumstances sooner He would have placed Him beyond the Reach of
Poverty. Before his Execution He made a Declaration which seems to be equal
to any thing ever utter’d by a dying Hero or Philosopher in Ancient or
Modern Times. He took off his Bonnet, and said He thank’d God that
x. Many Years ago the Estate of
Culbane extending many miles along the Sea Coast from
Findhorn to
Nairn was completely overwhelm’d with Sand by a Tempest in
the Sea.
xi. There are various Conjectures concerning the
Derivation of
Elgin. The most probable
seems to be that it was named after
Helgey
General of
Sigurd King of Norway who
conquer’d
Murrayshire in 927. and is
said to have built a Town in the Southern Part of it. It was anciently
written
Helgeyn or
Helgun.