25.1 Went in Wedgwood’s chaise gig to Cote house & thence in his Chaise to the New Passage called 12 miles from Clifton. Paid 7/6 for our passages in the mail boat. Took a chaise to Usk 12 miles. Drank tea there & went on to Mr Green’s at Llansantfred where we found Mackintosh & stopped supper. Proceeded to Abergavenny 11 miles from Usk. Took Green’s chaise & four post horses in the next stage to Brecon 20 miles. Got there about 4 o’clock in the morning. Went on to Bualt 12 miles. 26. Breakfasted there. Could get no chaise to go on to Rhayder & the Landlord asked 6d a head per mile for post horses. Resolved to go on foot & hired a horse & man to carry our baggage for 5/. A few miles from Bualt we entered upon the shistus mountains, which alternated with various varieties of shistus & of a nondescript fossil2

Dip of the strata to the north west, in some places but different in others. We arrived at Rhayader Gowey about 7 in the evening having walked about 14 miles from Bualt following the course of the Wye. Fair Beauty of the young Women

27 Walked up the valley of the Illon which falls into the Wye a mile from Rhayader. Visited several of the cottages, found the inhabitants to possess large families in general healthy. No consumption.3 Scarlet fever had got in amongst them & had killed 8. Returned back upon the highest ridge of the hills, whence had a good view of all the adjacent country. Saw Plinlimmon. The huts or cottages were in general very dark, but tolerably well furnished the house much smoked, but furniture, dishes &c, kept pretty clean. Some houses without chimnies. Children very beautiful. – Hills all consist of varieties of shistus with veins of quartz.4

Dined at Rhayader. Visited some of the poor inhabitants

28. Took a chaise from Rhayader to the Devils bridge, 4 horses for 3 miles to the top of the hill & 2 for the remaining 16 miles. – Wild and desert country as far as the stone Bridge 6 miles from Devils Bridge lead mines. Galena5 in quartz. Shistus mountains continue all the way. New Inn, four miles from Devils bridge. Arrive at Devils bridge about 4 o’clock & find the house occupied by Lady Tufton & Co.6 Go down to see the bridge. Descent to the water’s edge. Fine quarry of roof slate (shistus tegularis). Basons scooped out by the stream of the Fynnach over which the bridge is built. height 100 to 114 feet after dinner go to see the cataract, which appears to fall at several times altogether [ ]7 feet. One of the falls (the last but one) is 120 feet. Precipitous sides of the rock. Clothed with wood. Descend to the steep side to the bottom of the valley, where the cataract ends.

29. Have much difficulty to get a chaise & cannot set out before 9 oClock for Tregarron. Road through Hafod. Romantic grounds & house, about 4 miles from Devils bridge. High hilly country to Tregarron 15 miles but better inhabited, than what we passed through the preceding days. Dined at the Crown Inn. Mile. Go on in the chaise to Llanpeter 11 miles. sleep there

30. Take on same chaise to Llandovery 18 miles where breakfast. We Tak discharge postillion. Find chaise here & go on to Trecastle 9 miles & thence to Brecon 10 miles. Country improving in cultivation as we go on. Leave the shistus mountains & come to sandstone. Take chaise & 4 to Abergavenny. Beautiful valley of the Usk Adml. Gells house, Crickhowell. Dine at Abergavenny 20 miles from Brecon. Go on with chaise & pair to Usk & then to New Passage again. Long hill behind Usk which walk up. –

31. Cross the passage by 9 o’clock & arrive at Clifton by 12

Money advanced £ s

Watt 13 4

Wedgewood 5 8 6

Beddoes 7 8 6

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26 1

Cash in hand 8 19

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3 / 25 2

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Expences of each £ 8 7

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Editorial notes
1. Indicating the date.
2. Travelling in the night, Watt had in fact just missed the crucial boundary of the sandstone and schistus regions, which lies between Brecon and Builth. Schistose rocks, here formed by the heating under pressure of greywacke strata, were of interest to him and Beddoes because both men were early proponents of James Hutton’s geological theory, which argued that not all rocks were formed by sedimentary deposits at the bottom of oceans and that much of the earth’s surface was produced by the elevation from below of igneous and metamorphic rocks formed by subterranean heat. It was not until 1799, when John Playfair abridged Hutton’s Theory of the Earth, that these ideas began to gain wider acceptance. In the early 1830s, the boundary between Builth and Brecon became highly significant when, near Trericket Mill, on a tributary of the Wye, the geologist Roderick Murchison viewed a cliff in which both sandstone and schistus were exposed, and on that basis produced with Adam Sedgwick an account of the Silurian period, succeeding the Cambrian system – thus laying the foundation of the modern understanding of geological timescales.
3. Beddoes commented on these visits in a letter of 4 October 1797 to Watt Jr’s father: ‘But does not luxury make tender those who would otherwise be robust? Our journey was in the highest degree satisfactory – our observations coincided perfectly with those of T Wedgwood in N. Wales – I think it probable that the inhabitants of the secluded valleys & hills are little subject to phthisis, toothache or indigestion. I speak of the little farmers who indeed are the principal inhabitants – such beauty & healthy bloom I never find’ (Library of Birmingham MS 3219/4/029/22). Beddoes published this tentative conclusion, adducing his observations in Rhayader and Wedgwood’s in Tan-y-Bwlch, North Wales, in his Essay on the Causes, Early Signs and Prevention of Pulmonary Consumption (London, 1799), p. 64.
4. In the Plutonist geological theory of James Hutton, of which Beddoes and Watt were advocates, such veins are a sign of metamorphosed rock having been injected into weaknesses in overlying strata – evidence of igneous rock formation.
5. Lead sulphide: an ore of lead.
6. Probably Lady Caroline Tufton (b. 1771), daughter of the 8th Earl of Thanet. Her party was occupying the Hafod Arms, the inn by the bridge that looks onto the falls.
7. Here Watt has left a blank, meaning to fill in the number of feet at a later time.