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                    <hi rend="bold">A tour in Wales by James Watt Jr, Thomas Beddoes and Thomas
                        Wedgwood, September 1797</hi>
                    <date>1797</date>
                </title>
                <respStmt>
                    <name>Transcribed and edited by Tim Fulford; encoded by Elizabeth Edwards</name>
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                        <repository>Library of Birmingham</repository>
                        <idno>MS 3219/6/31</idno>
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            <div type="introductions">
                <div type="introduction">
                    

    <hi rend="italic">By Tim Fulford</hi>
    <lb/>
    <lb/>
    <p>In 1797 the doctor, chemical experimentalist and political campaigner Thomas Beddoes
        (1760-1808) was treating, in Clifton, Bristol, two young men who were his friends as
        well as his patients. James Watt Jr (1769-1848) was the son of the engineer and
        chemist James Watt. Like Beddoes, he had been a radical reformer who admired the
        French Revolution. After travelling to Paris in 1792 to present to the Club des
        Jacobins an address from the Manchester Constitutional Society, he was denounced in
        parliament byEdmund Burkeas a traitor. He left Paris in the wake of the massacres
        there for Italy, and returned to Britain later in 1794 as it became apparent that
        the prosecution of leading radicals for treason would fail. Thereafter, he became a
        manager of the family engineering firm, Boulton and Watt. With James Watt Sr, he
        helped Beddoes to found, in Clifton, a Pneumatic Institution designed to test
        whether the recently discovered gases oxygen and hydrogen might be effective in
        curing diseases (chiefly consumption/TB and palsy/paralysis). Watt advised on the
        subscription drive and supplied breathing apparatus invented by his father. The
        Institution opened in 1799. Watt spent much of 1797 in Clifton, under treatment by
        Beddoes with nitrous acid for what he suspected was a sexually transmitted disease.
        Suffering from a rash of red and yellow spots, and internal pains, he was, however,
        well enough to dine with friends in Bristol and Bath. One of these friends was
        another of Beddoes's patients, Thomas Wedgwood (1771-1805), the son of the pottery
        magnate Josiah Wedgwood. Having inherited part of Josiah's enormous wealth, Thomas,
        a scientific researcher who worked on the light emitted by heated bodies and on
        photography, became a major financial supporter of the Pneumatic Institution. He was
        also a philosopher who investigated the role in perception of emotion. In 1797 he
        visited Alfoxden in Somerset, hoping that Wordsworth and Coleridge would put into
        practice his ideas about the emotional education of young children. He was unable to
        take this project forward himself because he was afflicted by a serious stomach
        complaint that left him unable to digest food and caused bouts of depression. On
        Beddoes's recommendation, he and Watt Jr would spend the winter of 1797-98
        recuperating from their illnesses on the Cornish coast. From there, in January 1798
        Wedgwood wrote offering a lifetime annuity to enable Coleridge to take forward the
        kind of philosophical researches that he himself had to lay aside.</p>
    <p>The tour of Wales was rapidly conceived and relatively brief. It was, however,
        unusual in that it did not follow the already standard tourist route along the lower
        section of the River Wye – either on horseback or foot from Chepstow to Tintern
        Abbey or by pleasure boat from Monmouth downstream to the river's mouth. Instead,
        the three men went along the valley of the Usk to Abergavenny and Brecon, then
        crossing the hills to Builth Wells and following the upper Wye upstream to Rhayader,
        from where they crossed the inland moors and mountains to the well-known tourist
        site, Devil's Bridge. Stopping at Hafod, the house of Beddoes's patient Thomas
        Johnes, with its picturesque grounds, the travellers then returned to Usk and back
        to Clifton.</p>
    <p>The tour was undertaken for three reasons. First, Beddoes wanted to alleviate his
        patients' depressed state with a change of scene whilst himself enjoying a break
        from his busy medical practice. Second, Beddoes and Watt were keen geologists,
        involved in the controversy of the time – whether the strata that compose the
        earth's surface are of marine or igneous origin. They knew that the distribution of
        rocks and order of strata in Wales had been little studied. Third and most
        significant, Beddoes wanted information about the health of Welsh cottagers that
        might confirm or disprove his theory about the relationship of lifestyle and
        disease. A pioneer of statistically-based preventive medicine, Beddoes viewed the
        dramatic increase in the prevalence of consumption as a result of the modern, urban
        habit of living in warm, poorly-ventilated rooms. He suspected that a less luxurious
        outdoor life such as that pursued by farm labourers was likely greatly to lessen the
        chance of contracting consumption. He also suspected that exposure to effluvia from
        animals – fumes from their dung, or from their carcasses – might confer some
        protection against the disease (he interviewed butchers and noted that consumption
        was uncommon amongst them; he also placed consumptive patients in cowhouses in the
        hope that the manure would benefit their lungs). The Welsh tour was an opportunity
        to question the rural poor about their illnesses and to view their living
        conditions.</p>

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                <p>25.<note type="editorial">Indicating the date.</note> Went in <persName ref="pe7788">Wedgwood</persName>’s <del>chaise</del>
                    <hi rend="superscript">gig</hi> to <placeName ref="pl9138">Cote
                        house</placeName> &amp; thence in his Chaise to the <placeName ref="pl2706">New Passage</placeName> called 12 miles from <placeName ref="pl2988">Clifton</placeName>. Paid 7/6 for our passages in the mail boat. Took a
                    chaise to <placeName ref="pl1845">Usk</placeName> 12 miles. Drank tea there
                    &amp; went on to <persName ref="pe7790">Mr Green</persName>’s at <placeName ref="pl9136">Llansantfred</placeName> where we found <persName ref="pe7791">Mackintosh</persName> &amp; stopped supper. Proceeded to <placeName ref="pl1787">Abergavenny</placeName> 11 miles from <placeName ref="pl1845">Usk</placeName>. Took <persName ref="pe7790">Green</persName>’s chaise
                    &amp; four post horses in the next stage to <placeName ref="pl1791">Brecon</placeName> 20 miles. Got there about 4 o’clock in the morning. Went
                    on to <placeName ref="pl9131">Bualt</placeName> 12 miles. 26. Breakfasted there.
                    Could get no chaise to go on to <placeName ref="pl1666">Rhayder</placeName>
                    &amp; the Landlord asked 6d a head per mile for post horses. Resolved to go on
                    foot &amp; hired a horse &amp; man to carry our baggage for 5/. A few miles from
                        <placeName ref="pl9131">Bualt</placeName> we entered upon the shistus
                    mountains, which alternated with various varieties of shistus &amp; of a
                    nondescript fossil<note type="editorial">Travelling in the night, Watt had in
                        fact just missed the crucial boundary of the sandstone and schistus regions,
                        which lies between Brecon and Builth. Schistose rocks, here formed by the
                        heating under pressure of greywacke strata, were of interest to him and
                        Beddoes because both men were early proponents of James Hutton’s geological
                        theory, which argued that not all rocks were formed by sedimentary deposits
                        at the bottom of oceans and that much of the earth’s surface was produced by
                        the elevation from below of igneous and metamorphic rocks formed by
                        subterranean heat. It was not until 1799, when John Playfair abridged
                        Hutton’s <hi rend="italic">Theory of the Earth</hi>, that these ideas began
                        to gain wider acceptance. In the early 1830s, the boundary between Builth
                        and Brecon became highly significant when, near Trericket Mill, on a
                        tributary of the Wye, the geologist Roderick Murchison viewed a cliff in
                        which both sandstone and schistus were exposed, and on that basis produced
                        with Adam Sedgwick an account of the Silurian period, succeeding the
                        Cambrian system – thus laying the foundation of the modern understanding of
                        geological timescales.</note>
                </p>
                <p>Dip of the strata to the north west, in some places but different in others. We
                    arrived at <placeName ref="pl1666">Rhayader Gowey</placeName> about 7 in the
                    evening having walked about 14 miles from <placeName ref="pl9131">Bualt</placeName>
                    <hi rend="superscript">following the course of the <placeName ref="pl1227">Wye</placeName>
                    </hi>.
                    Fair Beauty of the young Women</p>
    <p>27 Walked up the <placeName ref="pl9130">valley of the Illon</placeName> which falls into the
                        <placeName ref="pl1227">Wye</placeName> a mile from <placeName ref="pl1666">Rhayader</placeName>. Visited several of the cottages, found the
                    inhabitants to possess large families in general healthy. No consumption.<note type="editorial">Beddoes commented on these visits in a letter of 4 October
                        1797 to Watt Jr’s father: ‘But does not luxury make tender those who would
                        otherwise be robust? Our journey was in the highest degree satisfactory –
                        our observations coincided perfectly with those of T Wedgwood in N. Wales –
                        I think it probable that the inhabitants of the secluded valleys &amp; hills
                        are little subject to phthisis, toothache or indigestion. I speak of the
                        little farmers who indeed are the principal inhabitants – such beauty &amp;
                        healthy bloom I never find’ (Library of Birmingham MS 3219/4/029/22).
                        Beddoes published this tentative conclusion, adducing his observations in
                        Rhayader and Wedgwood’s in Tan-y-Bwlch, North Wales, in his <hi rend="italic">Essay on the Causes, Early Signs and Prevention of
                            Pulmonary Consumption</hi> (London, 1799), p. 64.</note> Scarlet fever
                    had got in amongst them &amp; had killed 8. Returned back upon the highest ridge
                    of the hills, whence had a good view of all the adjacent country. Saw <placeName ref="pl6264">Plinlimmon</placeName>. The huts or cottages were in general
                    very dark, but tolerably well furnished the house much smoked, but furniture,
                    dishes &amp;c, kept pretty clean. Some houses without chimnies. Children very
                    beautiful. – Hills all consist of varieties of shistus with veins of
                        quartz.<note type="editorial">In the Plutonist geological theory of James
                        Hutton, of which Beddoes and Watt were advocates, such veins are a sign of
                        metamorphosed rock having been injected into weaknesses in overlying strata
                        – evidence of igneous rock formation. </note>
                </p>
    <p>Dined at <placeName ref="pl1666">Rhayader</placeName>. Visited some of the poor inhabitants</p>
    <p>28. Took a chaise from <placeName ref="pl1666">Rhayader</placeName> to the <placeName ref="pl3155">Devils bridge</placeName>, 4 horses for 3 miles to the top of
                    the hill &amp; 2 for the remaining 16 miles. – Wild and desert country as far as
                    the stone Bridge 6 miles from Devils Bridge lead mines. Galena<note type="editorial">Lead sulphide: an ore of lead.</note> in quartz. Shistus
                    mountains continue all the way. New Inn, four miles from <placeName ref="pl3155">Devils bridge</placeName>. Arrive at <placeName ref="pl3155">Devils
                        bridge</placeName> about 4 o’clock &amp; find the house occupied by Lady
        Tufton &amp; Co.<note type="editorial">Probably Lady Caroline Tufton (b. 1771), daughter of the 8th Earl of Thanet. Her party was occupying the Hafod Arms, the inn by the bridge that looks onto the falls.</note> Go down to see the <placeName ref="pl3155">bridge</placeName>.
                    Descent to the water’s edge. Fine quarry of roof slate (shistus tegularis).
                    Basons scooped out by the stream of the <placeName ref="pl9134">Fynnach</placeName> over
                    which the <placeName ref="pl3155">bridge</placeName> is built. height 100 to 114
                    feet after dinner go to see the cataract, which appears to fall at several times
                    altogether [ ]<note type="editorial">Here Watt has left a blank, meaning to fill
                        in the number of feet at a later time.</note> feet. One of the falls (the
                    last but one) is 120 feet. Precipitous sides of the rock. Clothed with wood.
                    Descend <del>to the</del> steep side to the bottom of the valley, where the
                    cataract ends.</p>
                <p>29. Have much difficulty to get a chaise &amp; cannot set out before 9 oClock for
                        <placeName ref="pl9132">Tregarron</placeName>. Road through <placeName ref="pl3156">Hafod</placeName>. Romantic grounds &amp; house, about 4 miles
                    from <placeName ref="pl3155">Devils bridge</placeName>. High hilly country to
                        <placeName ref="pl9132">Tregarron</placeName>
                    <hi rend="superscript">15 miles</hi> but better inhabited, than what we passed through the
                    preceding days. Dined at the Crown Inn. Mile. Go on in the chaise to <placeName ref="pl9128">Llanpeter</placeName> 11 miles. sleep there</p>
    <p>30. Take on same chaise to <placeName ref="pl1796">Llandovery</placeName>
                    <hi rend="superscript">18 miles</hi> where breakfast. <del>We</del>
                    <del>Tak</del> discharge postillion. Find chaise here &amp; go on to <placeName ref="pl1795">Trecastle</placeName> 9 miles &amp; thence to <placeName ref="pl1791">Brecon</placeName> 10 miles. Country improving in cultivation
                    as we go on. Leave the shistus mountains &amp; come to sandstone. Take chaise
                    &amp; 4 to <placeName ref="pl1787">Abergavenny</placeName>. Beautiful valley of
                    the <placeName ref="pl1845">Usk</placeName>
                    <persName ref="pe1124">Adml. Gell</persName>s <placeName ref="pl9135">house</placeName>, <placeName ref="pl3000">Crickhowell</placeName>. Dine at
                        <placeName ref="pl1787">Abergavenny</placeName> 20 miles from <placeName ref="pl1791">Brecon</placeName>. Go on with chaise &amp; pair to <placeName ref="pl1845">Usk</placeName> &amp; then to <placeName ref="pl2706">New
                        Passage</placeName> again. Long hill behind <placeName ref="pl1845">Usk</placeName> which walk up. –</p>
    <p>31. Cross the passage by 9 o’clock &amp; arrive at <placeName ref="pl2988">Clifton</placeName> by 12</p>
                <p> </p>
                <p>Money advanced £ s</p>
    <p>
                    <persName ref="pe7792">Watt</persName> 13 4</p>
    <p>
                    <persName ref="pe7788">Wedgewood</persName> 5 8 6</p>
    <p>
                    <persName ref="pe7793">Beddoes</persName> 7 8 6</p>
                <p> ––––––––––––––</p>
                <p> 26 1</p>
                <p> </p>
                <p>Cash in hand 8 19</p>
                <p> ––––––––––––––</p>
                <p> 3 / 25 2</p>
                <p> ––––––––––––––</p>
                <p>Expences of each £ 8 7</p>
                <p> ––––––––––––––</p>
                <p> ––––––––––––––</p>
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