| ID: | 0028 [see the .xml file] |
|---|---|
| Identifier: | Hoare’s Bank Archives AFM 19/14, 5 |
| Cite: | 'Journal of a Tour into S. Wales by Sophia Hoare, 1809 ' in Curious Travellers Digital Editions [editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/doc/0028] |
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We started early from London on Fryday Morg July ye. 7th
very rainy Weather and arrived at Whitney^Staple Hall Inn pretty good
which is one Stage beyond Oxford. It is a comfortable Inn enough and clean we passed through
Long [...] ^Northleach
to Cheltenham which I had not seen for so many Years ^Dowdeswell a very pretty Village
I was curious to look at the late Improvements, which I found considerable in Buildings & Accommodations we met Mr. Lloyd
who accompanied us to the Springs, Walks, & Library which is a remarkably good one.1
The Country extremely pretty – the Road from thence to Gloucester ^Bell Inn, excellent Bed.
very bad indeed. Here we determined to stay, and walked out to see the Pin Manufactory which is curious
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returned to Dinner, slept – In the Morning we attended the Cathedral Service, viewed the Building which is a mixture of Saxon and Gothic Architecture – our Guide was very facetious & related many Anecdotes, one especially of a Lady and Gentleman in the Whispering Gallery – the Window very fine & the Organ beautiful – We next proceeded to Ross, walked to the Church yard to see the fine View – charming Weather and we anticipated the Pleasure of our Excursionf. 24v
is very handsome – It was erected at the Expence of Lady Betty Duplin and there is a Bust of Mr Kyrle (the Man of Ross) at the Top – The Church is the largest and neatest Country One I ever saw – the Church Yard occupies an Acre of Ground, round it a broad Gravel Walk, the four sides of which are planted with Elms by the Hands of the Man of Ross – there is a lofty Spire to the Church which is an interesting Object to all the Country around. – We now began to be impatient to embark on our little Expedition which we did accordingly, having provided ourselves with some Refreshment on our Jaunt – The Country for the first four Miles fromf. 25r
Ross, is tame & uninteresting but towards Goodrich Castle it improves considerably, our first View of that noble Old Structure was very striking & on our near approach we were highly gratified by the beautiful Scenery with which it is surrounded we walked up to the Castle which is a very Steep ascent, through Bushes & Brambles and then explored the Ruin – there is a fine View from one of the uppermost Turrets, but I did not venture up to the Top – Altogether we thought it beautiful we regained our Boat and the Scenery became more & more interesting The Woods hanging down to the Waters side on each side as we passed, Rocks,f. 25v
intermixed, and here and there a small white Cottage or Village Church to [...] the peaceful Inhabitants – In a small Bay near the New Wear in the midst of these delightful Scenes our Boat was moored, and as the Men as well as ourselves needed some Refreshment we stopped, our Table was spread and they had [?put us ^up] every thing we wanted, from the Inn at Ross - The Boat-men went on Shore, and we remained in our agreeable Situation – We reached Monmouth by about Six O’Clock took a Walk about the Town, I was very much fatigued and went to Bed early but highly pleased with our Day’sf. 26r
Excursion – The Monmouth Arms an indifferent ^old Inn, but a tolerable Bed and Room. – In the Morning we took a Walk to see the Ruinsf. 26v
Pillars in the most beautiful and picturesque Manner imaginable I quitted this enchanting Spot with infinite Regret, but as the tide served to convey us to Chepstow we were obliged to leave it. The Boat met us on the other side the Abbey and we proceeded to Chepstow passed Persfield Grounds, the Lover’s Leap &c – The Rocks and woods much higher and thicker as we approached but I heard with Grief that many were marked for destruction. they seem to make a great traffic of the Barks of Trees ^here which they strip off,2 in consequence of which it dies, and is then cut down we saw many in this deplorablef. 27r
State, and whole Acres of beautiful hanging Woods marked for the Knife Chepstow is a pretty little neat Town better built than Monmouth and much improved since I was here The Castle stands in a fine commanding Situation – We took a delightful Walk to it in the Evening, and examined it thoroughly – tis a striking Contrast to Tintern, as it is left quite to itself and nearly overgrown in part with Trees and Brambles whereas the other is cleared of all adventitious Ornaments and rests entirely on its own Grandeur and Beauty – the one is perhaps best suited to a Ruined Monastery, and the other to the Remainsf. 27v
of a Castle – We had very tolerable Rooms and Bed at the Beaufort Arms From Chepstowwe had a charming Drive to Abergavenny seeing Ragland Castle in our Way along the Vale of Usk ^and the River which meanders within Sight of the Road, and its Banks are finely Wooded – We found the Inn very tolerable but unluckily there was a Ball the Night we staid, given by some Gentleman in the Neighbourhood It made great Confusion and not a little Noise, and the People of the Inn were all so fatigued the next Morning with their Exertions that we had some difficulty in getting an Early Breakfast and Post Horses to take us to Llanthony Abbey which was ourf. 28r
Inducement for staying there – We were much dissuaded from going by the Landlord, who told us the Road was scarcely practicable, and very long ten Miles – however we resolved not to be baffled in our design, and accordingly set out in a Hack Chaise as we heard that our own was likely to be much injured in the Excursion our Servants we sent on to Brecon to bespeak us Accommodations – the Road is prettily diversified and finely Wooded, especially as we approached the Ruins, but I was sorry to see some new whitewashed Buildings close to it, and having heard it was lately purchased by a Mr. Landor, I conceivedf. 28v
no very favourable Idea of his Taste – but how much less so, when on my nearer Approach I found whole Piles of Stones and broken Pillars lying in heaps & obstructing the Entrance into this noble Building A sort of Steward or Bailiff offered to conduct us, and endeavoured to excuse his Master by telling us that more of the Ruins would have fallen, unless a part had been destroyed I could not help expressing great Concern at this proceeding, so to console me, the Man said his Master meant to restore it to its ancient form and was expecting the Architect from London who was making Plans forf. 29r
this most Arduous Undertaking What remains is certainly magnificent and Appears to be on a larger Scale than Tintern but the Ivy has been torn down, and the whole is so mutilated that in its present State it is certainly greatly inferior; and what with the vileness of the Road and the time it took us to go and return, I would not wish to repeat my Visit – We set out at Ten and did not return till near 6 – heartily tired with the jumbling and jolting of our miserable Vehicle besides a great deal of walking where the Road was inpassable. On our Return we took some Refreshments at Abergavennyand set out with four good posters along one off. 29v
the most beautiful and delightful Roads I ever travelled, ^A perfect Arcadia all the Way we passed several gentleman’s Seats, Admiral Gell's &c. &c. the Ruins of Tretower Castle on the Right and at last reached Brecon, having just saved the Day light, and found ourselves pretty well off as to accommodation except the Bed which was dreadful, Red Stuff Curtains and very short narrow Sheets – it is a pretty clean Town enough and the Priory Walks are charming likewise the surrounding Scenery and distant Mountains – there seemed to be many french Persons here 3 – the Remains of the Priory form part of the Church which is neat and an organ in it – a part of thef. 30r
eastward Court is walled in for Tennis very little remains of the Castle and Sir Charles Morgan to whom it belongs is building a large Inn close to it – The Golden Lion is the present one and very spacious but old. – We did not leave Brecontill past one, Friday 14thf. 30v
Old Castle - We took a walk through Hay-Fields and by the Side of the River in the Evening to get out of the noise of Drums & Fifes & training the Local Militia. – We started early the following Morning Saturday 15th St. Swithin - a beautiful Day – arrived at Llandilo procured Saddle Horses & set out to Careg Cenen Castle - a shocking Road but a fine Country – when we got ^to the miserable little Village, our Guide told us that Candles would be necessary, wch surprised me a good deal, but we proceeded on Horseback as far as we could go dismounted and toiled up to the Castle wch had a beautiful appearance from a Distance It is situated in a Valley fromf. 31r
which the sharp high Rock rises quite abruptly – it is of an immense extent and a prodigious heigth - we penetrated 140 feet into the Rock with our Candles in our Hands, to see the Wells of Water which supplyed the Garrison – it put me in mind of the Cave at Castleton only it is much narrower and lower we drank of the Water, which is excellent how the Castle was ever taken is amazing for it appears by Nature to be wholly impregnable – we explored every part & were highly gratified with the Scene returned to Llandilo through which place it was necessary to pass to go to Ld Dynevor's - the Park is beautiful and the old ruined Castle in the Groundsf. 31v
an interesting Object, but the Trees are so much grown round it, that very little of it is to be seen except on a near Approach – We took some Refreshment on our Return to Llandilomounted our Chaise & proceeded to Caermarthen which is a handsome Town and a pretty Good Inn the Ivy Bush - a nice little Garden the Houses are white washed all over Roofs, Chimneys, and all – The next Morning we went to Church, the Service well performed and a Good Organ examined the Monuments &c. and set out through Narberth & St. Claire to Haverford West, arrived late – Drakeford taken very ill – set out early next Day to see the venerable Cathedral of St. Davidsf. 32r
it was sixteen Miles of Rough hilly Road the Country very ugly but we were gratified with a fine View of the Sea. St. Bride's Bay - Roach Castle on the Right St. Davids is a miserable little scattered Village, and the Cathedral is sunk in a Bottom so that it is not seen till one is close to it – the Building very fine and the beautiful Ruins of the Archbishop Peter’s Palace most striking, likewise the Chapel of St. Mary, College & some most curious Monuments4 particularly those of the Bishops Iordeth and Anselm, and the Tomb of Giraldus some of the most beautiful Gothic I ever saw, and the whole displays a magnificent appearance of ancientf. 32v
Splendour – the Cathedral itself is much in decay, the interior of it – the outside has been repaired by Nash the Architect who has endeavoured with bad Success to imitate the beautiful Circular Window in the Ruins of the Archbishops Palace.f. 33r
We Returned to a late Dinner at Haverford West, the following Morng Tuesday 18th we visited Picton Castle Lord Milford’s and Slebitch Mr. Phillips's - neither of them at all worth seeing House or Grounds – at Picton there were fine Hothouses & Kitchen Gardens, and a good Conservatory. Returned to Haverford refreshed ourselves, and passed through a dull Country to Milford Haven, with which I was much pleased – a charming clean new Inn fronting the Haven, wch. Was filled with shipping – we counted 50 Vessels all close in to the Shore, many more building, two first Rate Men of War the Sea looked beautiful and it was altogether a charming Scene – the Housesf. 33v
all newly built and quite White all over – I should have quitted Milford with more regret, but that I was anxious to get to Tenby for my Letters and likewise for a little Rest and bathing for Henry - Wednesday 19th - We arrived at Pembroke through a flat uninteresting Country The Castle looked grand as we approached and we immediately set our walking to view its noble Remains, and try to find out Turner’s point of View from whence he took his Drawing - It occupies a very large Space and the round Tower with the Roof still on, is extremely curious the Walls are quite enwreathed with Ivy of every Sort and Variety of Tint and it commands a fine Situation onf. 34r
three Branches of Milford Havenso that at high Tide there is Water all round it – We passed a very pretty Cottage belonging to Mr. Merrick who must have a fine View of the Castle from the opposite Shore – by the time we returned to our Inn and had taken some Refreshment, the Horses we put to, and we proceeded to Stackpole Court Lord Cawdor’s, which I saw nothing in much to admire – the Woods are all Young though a great deal of them, and there was nothing in the Appearance of the House to raise Curiosity – but it is a handsome Gentleman’s Seat and when the Tide is in must have a fine View from it – We drove throughf. 34v
the park, to visit St. Gowen's Cave & ^well which by the Country People is said to perform such wonderful Cures in Rheumatic & other Complaints. an Old Woman walked down to the Rocks with us, we might have gone in the Carriage as Lady Cawdor is so fond of the Spot she has had a good Road made to it – the Cliffs and Rocks are very high, the open Sea beyond not near So grand or terrific as the Land’s End, more in the Style of Ilfracomb We descended by broken Steps 160 in Number, till we arrived at an old Sort of Chapel where many wonders of St. Gowen are related, we then saw the Well, and tasted the Water, it isf. 35r
formed in the Rocks, and the screaming of the Birds called Elingoogs5 a specimen of Sea-Gull was so noisy we could hardly hear ourselves speak – They have such a dread of the Boys that come at this time of Year to steal their Eggs, that they could not be persuaded of our peaceable Intentions – Returned to a late Dinner at Pembroke – good Bed & Room at the Green Dragon. Here there was only one pair of Horses kept, so we were obliged to leave our Servants and packages and send back our wretched Steeds when we arrived at Tenby - In our way there were stopped to see the beautiful Ruins of Lamprey Court - as I had a pretty View of it fromf. 35v
the Road, I did not undertake the Scramble that was necessary for a near Approach but Henry encountered Marshes River high Stone Wall, and Brambles, but at last got Sight of a beautiful Window quite entire, & brought me a little Sketch of it, as I could not see it from where I stood – The River seems to be very little known, & still less visited by the great difficulty of Access – but it must be a fine Study for an Artist, though the surrounding Country does not set it off to any advantage – At length we arrived at Tenby, I had written from Caermarthen to bespeak Rooms and Beds at the White Lion, therefore was disappointed at finding we could not be taken in, so we set outf. 36r
in quest of Lodgings hearing that all the other Inns wr full likewise – We however could not suit ourselves, none of them having any View of the Sea, tho’ all near it At last we spied out a very tolerable looking Inn at the End of the Town and tried our fortune there – We heard with joy that we could be well accommodated got a nice Sitting Room with a pretty view of the Castle & Bay - a tolerable Bed-Room very clean & Rooms for our Domestics. Here then we fixed during our Stay at Tenby, which I fear will not be half as long as I should wish. – having secured our Apartments we took a Walk down to the Sea, which looked lovely – beautiful Rocks all roundf. 36v
and the little Islands of Caldy, and St. Margaret close to it – Tenby stands on a Cliff and the Houses are all whitewashed in the usual Style, which makes it look like a Camp at a Distance – tis a sweet little place, & the bathing quite perfect – as we sat on a seat going down the Hill to the Sea, we saw several Machines going in and bathers, so Henry resolved to add to the Number, & accordingly took a fine plunge & swim in the beautiful green Ocean – our Servants did not arrive till late in the Evening, and this Morning 21st July – I had a delightful Dip – 25th We made an excursion to Carew Castle a very rough Road to it – Tis a Noble Ruinf. 37r
a good deal in the Style of the interior of Ludlow Castle, and appears to be about the same Date built in Henry the VII Reign by Sir Rys ap Thomas - It is of a quadrangular Form with a Tower at each corner – the Frames of the Windows are many of them entire, and all of free Stone – the Ivy grows most luxuriantly – the grand Hall is 105 Feet by twenty – the Bow Window’d Rooms of the Circularf. 37v
for the Carriage & Horses to cross with Safety. – July 27th We made an Excursion to Manorbeer Castle the Birth Place of Giraldus, It is not on so Grand a Scale as Carew Castle but appears to be about the same Date – It belongs to Ld. Milford and a part of the Castle he had covered in, a few Years ago and made it a sort of Audit Room where his Steward used to assemble the Tenants & relieve the Rents This does not improve the Appearance of the Building – It commands a fine View of the Sea, Stackpole Point ^& St. Gowins Cave – We returned to Dinner very tired from the excessive roughness of the Road. July 30th Sunday, the last Day of Stay at Tenby, which we much regretted – Afterf. 38r
Church we took a Walk on the Sands to see an Extraordinary natural Cave, with which we were very much pleased & surprized the Entrance is Nine Yards across, and the length of the Interior is 19 Yards by twelve Yds and from the Entrance to the furthest past of the Interior is was 25 Yds It is like an immense Hall or Apartment the Rocks which are thrown about in a most picturesque and striking Manner, forming the Roof and Sides, ^and a fine Level hard Sand makes the Floor – We returned near the Sea hunting for Shells, and took a last look at St. Catherine’s which is perforated in many Parts by the force of the Sea, We explored it thoroughly & admired the fine Views of the Water & distant Islands from this Rocky Shore, but did not ascend its steepf. 38v
Sides, as I had fatigued myself so very much by so doing, a few Evenings after my Arrival at Tenby, which Alas! we are now preparing to leave.
Monday 30th July - There was a great difficulty about Post Horses, none being kept at Tenby,
so we were obliged to take four from Tavernspight, and the Servants were obliged to wait the Arrival of a Chaise from Narbeth - The
Road was hilly but pretty good to Caermarthen where we arrived to Dinner took a Walk in the Evening, & met our Servants toiling up the Hill – The following Morning we set out on an Excursion to
Llanstephan dreadful rough bad Roads and vile Horses and Driver – We passed Sir William
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[39r]
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a View of the Castle &c. The Name of the little Village we stopped at is St. Ishmael’s the breadth of the Ferry at high Water is a Mile & half – a small Boat soon conveyed us, and we immediately began our steep Ascent up the Mouth to see the Castle - I was so tired, that I I was not as diligent in my Researches as my Companion but he told me there was very little to be seen the Ruins that remain give ^a very imperfect Idea of the ancient form. – We returned to our Boat and the tide having fallen in our Absence, I was obliged to be carried a great way as the Boat could not approach the Shore by some Yards – I expressed some doubts of howf. 40r
this was to be accomplished, but the Man assured me he had carried a great deal more of a Lady than Me often – After a very wet Walk across the Sands we again reached St. Ishmael’s where our Carriage ^had remained & our Horses baited – We took some Bread & Cheese and sweet Wort7 which I though excellent, and pursued our Journey to Kidwelly, which is ^a pretty little Town but close to a great Marsh beyond which is Worms Point and the Bay of Caermarthen. The Ruins are very fine embosomed in Wood, and adorned with Ivy: I staid at a little distance to take a Sketch, and Henry went nearer in hopes of getting within – but the People weref. 40v
very uncivil, and refused to send the Key, so he could not succeed at last but met with an old Acquaintance who was come to reside at Kidwely for the Sake of Convenience – We now thought of our Return to ^Caermarthen which was thro’ a sweet pretty Country finely variegated with Corn Fields Wood, and the River Towy winding through the Valley – arrived not till between seven & Eight very much fatigued indeed, having walked a great deal & been jumbled & jolted till all my Bones ached. – Arose much refreshed by a good Night’s Sleep and left Caermarthen about Eleven we were obliged to Stop at Pontarddulasf. 41r
while the Horses were baiting as there were only one pair kept at this little Village – The Country improved every turn of the Road, and a fine Ridge of Mountains bounded our Prospect. We had some heavy Showers on our Arrival at Swansea which prevented our taking a Walk to see the Town and Bay while the Dinner was preparing. Thursday Augst 3d A beautiful Morning Henry bathed – found it but indifferent bathing – very unlike Tenby. After Breakfast we walked down to the Pier,8 which is almost equal to Ramsgate, a quantity of Shipping and some very large Vessels just getting under Weigh and with all their Sailsf. 41v
set, shooting the Pier, which was really a very fine Sight – the Wind was extremely high, and we returned to the Inn and prepared to depart. – The Vale of Glamorgan would be beautiful but for the Copper and Iron Works9 the Smoke of which is very unpleasant and so thick one can hardly see beyond it – it is nearly the same in this Respect the whole of the way to Neath which I had fancied a prettier place than I found it – Here we changed Horses, after having stopped to see the Ruins of Neath Castle in the possession of Ld. Dynevor, who has added to its ruinous Condition by taking away great part of the Stonef. 42r
work to use in other Buildings – the Site of the Refectory, Chapel & Hall which is more perfect than any I have seen may clearly be traced – It was formerly called the fairest Abbey in all Wales, and has a likeness of Tintern in many parts – the lower Apartments are inhabited by a very wretched looking Set of dirty Old Women & Children that belong to the Manufactory – We stopped a short time at Briton Ferry, the Situation of which is beautiful at high tide and Lord Vernon's plantation and Woods are well disposed – proceeded to Margam Abbey, founded by Robert Earl of Gloster in 1147 – Among the Offices is a most beautiful Circularf. 42v
Tower fifty feet in Diameter – the Ivy growing in quantities all over it – It is now in the possession and beautifulf. 43r
Cases – The Orangery for the Reception of Which this superb Green house was built is quite Unique – One Hundred and Sixty of the finest Orange Trees I ever saw, quite Timber Trees loaded with Fruit which is as good as any that can be eaten – what is extraordinary is that the parent Tree from which all of these is derived, was wrecked on this Coast almost 30 Years ago in the Ld. Mansell Indiaman10 andf. 43v
richly ornamented Cross at a Cottage Door12 near the Church – arrived at Pyle Inn by Dinner time – I was very much struck with the Situation so little resembling an Inn and back’d by a fine Wood – Here we had every possible Convenience as much as at a Gentleman’s House – excellent fare, capital Rooms, Bed, &c &c. and looking into Gardens & pleasure Grounds. the Weather hitherto so fine was against us and all the early part of the following Morning was a pouring Rain – It however cleared towards the middle of the Day, and we took an immense long Walk to see an Old House on the Sea Shore13 likewise a Lake where the Country people told us there formerly stood a large Town, but which is now swallowed up, eitherf. 44r
by an Earthquake or by some extraordinary Inundation – but we could not trace these Rumours to any Authentic Source.Saturday 5th August We left Pyle Inn, which had the Weather been tolerable, I should have done with infinite regret. We turned out of the direct Road to see St. Donats which is most beautifully situated and a very curious Ruin, the View from the Watch Tower must be very fine, but the Rain prevented our going up to it – It is partly inhabited by a Farmer who rents some of ^ye Land adjacent, and his Family – Large Trees growing all round the Building tho’ it is close to the Sea, and the Somersetshire Coast in the Distance. Holnicote we supposed to be almost immediately Opposite.
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We likewise stopped at Llandaff to see the Cathedral, what remains of the Ruins is extremely beautiful much in the Style of Tintern Abbey, attached to which is the present Cathedral which makes but a poor Appearance it is however Clean and decent though small, and contains some Monuments of the Mathew Family14 and Ld. Llandaff has a considerable Estate in the Neighbourhood – passed thro’ Cowbridge and Llandaff to Cardiff where we dined & SleptSunday Augst 6th Went to Church which is a very handsome one – very bad Reader and Preacher – Afterwards we went to see Cardiff Castle which is repaired and added to so much that it retains not much of its original
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Appearance – We were shewn the dismal Place in which Robert Duke of Normandy (brother of William the Conqueror) was confined 26 Years – It is about fifteen feet Square, and hardly any light could penetrate – The Guard Room is close to it and Both in a ruinous State – close to the Entrance. The Castle belongs to the Marquis of Bute's Family, and there are many Portraits of his and his Wife's Family, who was one of the Windsors – his Grandson a Minor, is the Heir and intends residing there – we walked round the Terraces & plantations which are very confined, but fine Views from there From hence we took a Hack Chaise being lighter than our own, and set our thro’ a beautiful Country but a very rough Road, till we reached the Pont y pridd - so much famed – built byf. 45v
a common Stone Mason – a Single Arch over the rapid River Taaffe - The Bridge is extremely Elegant in form, and a prodigious heigth , and the wooded & hilly Banks on each Side shew it to great Advantage.15 Here we paused some little time and then proceeded to Caerphilly, where we had ordered Horses to meet us – The Ruins occupy a considerable Space, and the leaning Tower is a great Curiosity – the surrounding Country very rich with Wood, Corn Fields and distant Hills – we were seven Hours performing this Journey, and I was glad to find myself in a comfortable Inn at Newport towards Nine O’Clock when we dined and Slept. We did not start very early, intending to go no further than Usk,f. 46r
the whole drive to which place is lovely every requisite for Scenery except high Mountains – The Village of Usk is sweetly situated and its Castle, Bridge and Church16 would furnish many an interesting View so that my disappointment was great on hearing that we could not be accommodated there being a Monthly Market Day help, and no Room disengaged – so we were obliged to step into our Chaise again, and go on to the New Passage Inn - The Road extremely beautiful all the Way but very tedious, owing to neverending Hills called Penacamawr, wch I thought we never should have climbed up we were however amply rewarded at last with one of the very finest & most extensive Prospects I have ever seen, and bounded byf. 46v
the Brecknockshire Mountains and an immense Range of Hills all round us – the New Passage Inn very pleasantly situated, exactly opposite the Bristol Channel and close to it with a pretty Garden down to the Shore, Ships and Boats passing & repassing in all directions and the Gloucestershire & Sommersetshire Coast on the opposite side the Channel. Tuesday Augst 8th a very stormy Night, and I was not without some Alarm of how we were to get over, however the Wind in a great degree subsided and having sent out Chaise & Servant over early in the Morning to bespeak us Horses to take us to Bristol, we embarked and a fresh Breeze soon brought us to the opposite Shore, It being the Ebbf. 47r
Tide, we hoisted a Signal for our Chaise to be brought down to meet us, which however was not attended to All the Horses being engaged so we had to wade about half a Mile through Mud and Wet to the Passage House and then to wait between three & four Hours for Horses, which at last arrived and we were conveyed without further trouble to the York Hôtel Clifton where we slept.