| ID: | 0024 [see the .xml file] |
|---|---|
| Identifier: | Flintshire Record Office D/E/1209 |
| Editors: | Edited with an introduction by Elizabeth Edwards |
| Cite: | 'Philip Yorke, 'Diary of the Welch Tour begun from Erthig' ' edited with an introduction by Elizabeth Edwards in Curious Travellers Digital Editions [editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/doc/0024] |
Diary of the Welch Tour begun from Erthig, August the 13th 1766 – ended at Erthig Sep:tr the 5:th 1766 –
August 13
A Desert [sic] Ride from Erthig to Ruthin – Ruthin situated in the Vale of Cluid [sic]; a most fertile Vale, twenty miles in length, three in breadth, fortified on three sides by Mountains, on the North side it sinks into a large plain bounded by the Irish Sea – on one of the Hills near Ruthin, plain vestiges of a British Camp.1NB: Danced at the Assize Ball,2
14:th
Remained at Ruthin, and took a second Hop with Miss N: W:3
Friday 15:th
Went in the afternoon by Buchumbedd (Sr Walter Bagot’s) to Denbigh – The Castle was built on a very strong, and extensive plan by Lacy Earl of Lincoln in Edward the first’s time, by whom the Lordship of Denbigh, and other large possessions in Wales was granted to the Lacies – It devolved again to the Crown, and was given with the tithe of Denbigh to Dudley afterwards Earl of Liecester [sic], prime Favourite to Queen Elizabeth his Benefactress –
A Handsome Cathedral was begun to be erected by ^this Robert Earl of Liecester [sic] within the Castle walls; His death interrupted the Completion of the plan4 – He had finished the side Walls only and the great East Window, which still remain pretty entire – By the power of this Minister the See of St Asaph was to have been removed to Denbigh – Some letters still remain written by Dr Price a strong Partizan of Dudley’s and one of his chief Agents in Wales – Price having been guilty of many exactions & numberless Oppressions, and fearing a just Retaliation in one ^of his letters thus addresses Dudley – In thee O Lord have I put my trust, let me never be confounded – William the third granted the Lordship of Denbigh together with other considerable powers to W: Earl of Portland – this exorbitant Grant on a petition of the House of Commons he revoked, and otherwise rewarded his Favourite – The Chief Oppositioni 5 and most spirited was given to this Grant by Mr Price a Denbighshire Gentleman, afterwards one of the Barons of the Exchequer –
The Town Hall at Denbigh is well worthy looking in.
From Denbigh we proceeded in the evening by Bucheigrigg [sic] Sr Thomas Salusbury’s (leaving Llanerch Mr Davies’s on the left) to Mr Williams of Boddlewiddan [sic], as one of the most Hospitable Stations for a wearied Traveller to rest at in Wales; I shall never fail to recommend any of my friends to so comfortable a place –
Saturday 16:th
Surveyed the Ruins of Rhuddlan Castle (within two miles of Boddlewiddan) originally built by Henry the 2:nd but improved by Edward the 1:st who held here a Parliament to settle the Government of the subdued Country of Wales 6 – the Name signifies, the Red Place, pointing to the Situation of Rhuddlan, which stands on a red Bank above the River Cluid, here navigable for vessells [sic] of large Burden – One of the most pleasing of our Old Welch Tunes is called Morva Rhuddlan7 (id est) Rhuddlan Marsh; alluding to a very memorable battel [sic] fought here in early Times; it is said to have been composed as an Elegy and lamentation over the Slain; indeed the Musick very much echoes this sense-------
Went to St Asaph Cathedral, small but kept in neat repair, and originally well built – The Bishop hath the most numerous Patronage of any of his Brethren – After dinner at Bottlewiddan proceeded by [three words illegible] Ferry to Conway where we lay this night.
Monday 18:th
Viewed with pleasure and amazement the noble ruins of Conway castle, built (with many other strong Fortresses) by Edward the first, to awe his new conquered Subjects – The Town of Conway [illegible – cancelled word] hath sprung up within the outward walls of the Castle, originally those that inclosed the Castle Yard, tho ignorantly supposed to have been built as a security to the Town; some Seats immediately on the opposite shore of the River – Marl Mr Prendergast’s, Bodsgallan [sic] Miss Wynne’s, now Lady Mostyn, and Gloddath [sic], Sr Roger Mostyn’s – Dined this day at the Eagles at Llanrwst, a House of a mean Appearance, but of very good Accomodations [sic] – Llanrwst is remarkable for a bridge the Work of Inigo Jones, the center Arch remaining in the
in the [sic] State he left it, is worthy of his extensive Genius; the two smaller Arches having been in the eye of the Country since repaired, their original Beauty is much impaired – The Original name of this very extraordinary Genius was Unner ap Jones; he was born near Llanrwst, and was early encouraged in the study of Architecture by Sr Richard Wynne of Gwider [sic] near Llanrwst Bart, Treasurer to Henrietta Maria Queen of Charles the first – By the munificence of this Gentleman, Jones was supported in his travels, and afterwards recommended to the notice of Charles the 1:st. In Italy he drop’d his British appellation of Unner ap Jones, and received the name of Inigo – Two small Chapels were built by him for Sr Richard Wynne, one at Gwider,8 the other at Llanrwst before he left Wales – you would distinguish neither as the Work of Inigo Jones; In the Chapel at Llanrwst, Sr Richard Wynne put up a Marble with the
following Inscription:9 I could easily anticipate the Comment every Englishman (I should have said Saxon) will make thereon – Take the following however as a true and authentick Copy –
This Chapel was erected Anno Domini 1633 By Sr Richard Wynne Bart: of Gwidr in the County of Carnarvon, Treasurer to the High and Mighty Princess Henrietta Maria Queen of England, daughter to Henry the 4:th King of France and wife to our Sovereign King Charles – Where lieth his Father Sir John Wynne of Gwidr in the County of Carnarvon Knight and Baronet, Son and Heir to Maurice Wynne, Son and Heir to John Wynne, Son and Heir to Meredith, which three lieth buried in the Church of Dolwyddelan, with Tombs over them. This Meredith was Son and Heir to Evan,10 son and Heir to Robert, son and Heir to Meredith, son and Heir to Howell, son and Heir to David, son and Heir to Griffith, son and Heir to Caradock, son and Heir to Thomas, son and Heir to Roderick Lord of Anglesey, son to Owen Gwinedd [sic] [sic] Prince of Wales, ^(David) who married Emma Plantagenet Sister to King Henry the second – There succeeded this David three Princes; His nephew
NB: The Inheritance of Gwidr, now valued at 5000L per Annum or more, passed by a Daughter to the Marquis of Lindsey, and is now held by their immediate Descendant – the present Duke of Ancaster
11Leolinus Magnus, who married Jane Daughter to King John; David his Son, Nephew to King Henry the third; and Leoline the last Prince of Wales of that House and Line, who lived in King Edward the first’s time. Sr John Wynne married Sydney (who lieth buried here, the daughter of Sr William Gerard Knight Lord Chancellor of Ireland) by whom he had Issue Sr John Wynne, who died at Lucca in Italy, Sir Richard Wynne now living, Thomas Wynne who lieth here, Owen Wynne For further members of the Wynn family, mentioned in this passage, see here [external link] now living, Robert Wynne who lieth here, Roger Wynne who lieth here, William Wynne now living, Maurice Wynne who lieth here, Ellis Wynne who lieth buried at Whitford in the County of Flint, Henry Wynne now living, Roger Wynne who lieth here, and two Daughters – Mary now living married to Sr Roger Mostyn in the County of Flint Knight, and Elizabeth now living, married to Sr John Bodvil in the County of Caernarvon Knight.
Tuesday 19:th
Sailed down the River Conway from Trevern (within a mile of Llanrwst) and made it twelve miles to Conway – This River flows through a deep and narrow Vale, shut in on each side by very high and craggy Rocks, in some few places however softening into Wildness, with Birch and other Shrubs crawling up their sides – When I looked up to these Rocks from the River (which washes their Base) Shakespeare’s description of Dover Cliff immediately occurred –
There is a Cliff whose high and bending Head
Looks fearfully on the confined deep.12
Returned at night to our good Host Mr Ellis13 of
Keffdu
[sic] – I
should have remarked that the River Conway
becomes navigable within 14 miles of its rise; it is indeed a tide River,
of considerable width and depth.
Wednesday 20:th
Visited the Cataracts Rhaidr y Wanol [sic], and Rhaidr yr Pandy Penmachno, both within six miles of Llanrwst – They are both so very extraordinary, that I fear
as
^lest my Description, the nearer it approaches the Truth may
be thought the further to wander from it – Rhaidr yr
Wanol is a long continued ^River and Cataract,
tearing through an excavated Rock, formed into its Channel; in many places the
Channel breaks very abruptly, and creates numerous and delightful Falls; – On all
sides, this River is enclosed by high Rocks covered with low Shrubs that make a
beautiful accompanyment [sic] of Wood to the several Cascades –
Rhaidr yr Pendy Penmachno is a Curiosity no less extraordinary, tho much differing from the other – Here amidst an Amphitheatre of stupendous Rocks, the Rivers Machno and Conway join their Streams: The Course of the Machno, I followed up for some way, climbing and scrambling from one vast stone to another, that obstruct the very narrow
Channel of the River, which from the vicinity of the Impending Rocks on each side can never be widened – The Stones I am speaking of, are hollowed and worn into a vast variety of whimsical Cavities, others again diminish’d to Porridge pots, some by the continual eating of the Water formed into a sort of Arches, and supported by Rude Pillars; under these the clearest, and most living Water I e’er beheld trickles – To compleat this most Romantick Scene (upon the summits and brows of the Rocks that I have observed rise perpendicularly from the River) grow some large Trees; these take up and arch the space from Rock to Rock, and with a considerable shade overhang and darken the Channel below –
Returned this night and lay at Conway --------
Thursday 21:st
Travelled on over the sands to Bangor, made there an inconsiderable stay – The Cathedral indifferent, but the See valuable. Reached Carnarvon by dinner and danced that night at the Assembly.
Friday 22:nd
Remained at Carnarvon, dined with Counsellor Williams14 (a Hospitable Soul) and repe^ated a second dose at the Ball, the first I had been at within ten days, having ^besides thro’ necessity escaped one at Ruthin –
23:
Walked over the striking Ruins of Carnarvon, the Castle, and Walls, originally those as at Conway inclosing the Castle Yard – the distinction between the Castles of Conway and Carnarvon seems to be – that the latter being intended as the immediate residence of the Prince of Wales (where were fixed his different Courts of Judicature and Revenue, as also his Mint) was built more ^for habitation and bears more the Air of a Palace – Conway on the
contrary is more of a Fortress and in that respect exceeds Carnarvon in natural and artificial strength
Sunday 24:d
Sailed down the Menai to Beaumaris; about 14 miles – dined at Plasnewidd [sic] Sr R: Bayley’s (a fine situation on the rising Banks of the Menai fringed with Wood) passed Baldon Ferry in most wretched Weather, and reached Carnarvon benighted, and dreadfully soaked
Monday 25:th
Passed Tan yr Voila Ferry and took a delicious Ride (the Angelsea side of the River) to Plasnewidd, along a beautiful Terras [sic], commanding a noble view of the Mouth of the Menai, the Walls, and Castles of Carnarvon (the Town happily appearing to be lost, and ^the outward Walls appearing as in their original state and [?meaning]) the dead Flat of Angelsea on one side contrasted by the View of the Carnarvonshire Hills (particularly Snowdon) on the other ------
Tuesday 26:th of August –
Passed Porthithway [sic] [sic] Ferry, and ride through Welch Roads, and a bad Country to Beaumaris – Beaumaris situated on a Flat very near the Sea, is flanked with double Walls battlemented, and with Towers. The Town is small but well built: Within the Castle is a Chapel with vau˄lted Arches, which remains very entire; there are several small recesses with windows towards the Chapel which we concluded were private Confessional Closets – There appears to have been a noble Room of State up one Story – the whole is a fine Ruin – Baron Hill (Lord Bulkeley’s Seat) lies a mile from hence – the House is a vast pile, without Convenience, without beauty of uniformity; the Situation is noble, commanding the mouth of the Menai, and a fine Back Ground of the Carnarvonshire Mountains and Rocks – the view is said to be very similar to that of my Lord Edgcumbe’s in Cornwall.
Tuesday 26:th In the morning
Remained at Carnarvon, walked to view the old Walls, which are said to be the Ruins of Segontium a Roman Station – the River still retains the name of Seiont, and about a quarter of a mile from hence near its mouth washes the sides of Carnarvon; to build which Edward the 1:st is said to have employed the then considerable Ruins and Materials of the Old Town of Segontium.
Wednesday 27:th
Took a Guide from Carnarvon to Beddgelert in our way thither passed by Bettus Garmon [sic], no ways remarkable, then by Pont-Cerrig yr Rud (a beautiful Cascade) to Lynn Quellin [sic], an extensive and transparent Lake. The Banks of this Lake slope gently off, not unlike the Flintshire downs; this softness soon vanishes; in the back Ground close upon them press some high Hills, and craggy Rocks, down whose rugged sides roared innumerable Cataracts, supplying the Lake below – These Falls are indeed temporary; the Weather being very rainy (which we did not regret) the falls were in high perfection.
[facing page – ie facing page beginning ‘Near one of the Rocks’]
NB –
Our design was to have ascended Snowdon, but the Weather would not permit – the Easiest ascent (and best Road from Carnarvon to Snowdon) is by the Lakes of Llanberris [sic] [sic] –
Near one of the Rocks (I before mentioned) called Castel Cidum [sic] is a very extraordinary Echo – To paint truly the ride between Lynn Quellin and Beddgelart [sic], you may well use two lines of Churchill –
Far as the Eye could stretch no tree was seen
Earth clad in russet scorn’d the lively Green16
Beddgellart we were told was formerly the site of a Monastery tho no traces are now to be seen; the Beddgellart Monks (contrary to the general use of their Fraternity) were very abstemious in the choice of this their Situation; it hath neither richness of Soil, nor indeed any one of the comforts of Life to recommend it: We roosted this night at Beddgellart –
Thursday 28:th
Rose very early having indeed little temptation to lye in bed, and set out with a Guide for Tan y Bwlch – a mile and half from Beddgellart we passed Pont Aber Glaslin – This is a Curiosity by no means to be omitted in the tour of Wales – It is a natural rocky semicircular Dam making a very full and noble Fall;
Just below the Cascade stands a bridge of one handsome Arch – The Spring Tides of the Sea terminate at this place, and bring up Salmon which leap up the Dam, and go up the River to spawn. During our short stay on the Bridge we saw two or three Salmon leap – the River is called Nanwynan; Its Channel by Pont Aber Glaslin is filled with immense stones, which seem to be fragments of, and to be broken off the perpendicular rocks which rise from the River on either side. We proceeded on through a most wild and desolate Country, totally uncovered with soil or Herbage in many parts, but absolutely paved with Rocks – I cannot omit an observation made by one of the Servants (a Country Lout) on the inhospitable Prospect before us. Sure Sir, quoth the Bumpkin, this Country must be very old. Why so Jack. I think Sir, tis quite worn to the Bones – After having pursued thus our Journey for ten miles, we suddenly broke on Mr Griffith’s of Tan yr Bwlch – The Strong Contrast this Spot bears to the Country we had been before too long accustomed to, surprized us most
agreeably; It is a mountain (rising in the form of a Pyramid) to a very considerable Height, and is covered with good Timber; Craggy Rocks, bosomed high in tufted Trees overtop these Woods – the House which stands in the Centre of these Woods, commands a view of the Vale of Dyffryn Bwlch Coed, through which the River Rhydd Agored winds itself most beautifully, till it is at last lost between two Rocks under a Wood, and the Arch of a Bridge:17 It is much to be lamented that Nature hath been so blindly bountiful to a set of Animals equally void of Gratitude and understanding to assist her, or take any advantage of her Favours – A Moderate degree of Taste and very little labour render Tan yr Bwlch one of the most delicious spots my Eyes ever behold, or my Imagination can paint; But Alas! the Woods are impervious, and all those beautiful Points, from whence you might reasonably expect the most charming Views are shut up in utter darkness and Oblivion -----------
Friday 29:th
We designed going to Harlech and Crickaith [sic] to see the Castles at those places, but were deterred by the Weather; We made a short excursion to Lynn yr Rhaiddy,18 a Cataract well worth seeing; it empties itself into a Pool of a very considerable depth; the Country people assert that it hath no bottom – This Day turned out very rainy, and we were driven back to our bedii Station (Tan yr Bwlch) were [sic] we were locked up the remainder of this day.
Saturday 30:th
The Weather at length permitting us to creep our of our Holes, we proceeded to Festiniog, a mean Village, with one very tolerable publick House – Near this place are three Cataracts – viz: Kynant Velin [sic], Kynant Cwm [sic], and Pistil Du [sic] 19 – The first within half a mile of Festiniog we saw, more the Cascade than the Cataract; Kynant Cwm was represented to us as one of the finest in Wales, and the last was said to be worth seeing – Our Ride from Festiniog was desert like till we came within four
Miles of Dolgelly, the Country altering very agreeably, being composed of Deep dark Dells, Rushing Rivers, and cultivated Brows – Under this description the beautiful part of Wales (as I think) falls – Dolgelly is situated in a pleasant narrow Vale, by the side of a good River with a handsome bridge over it; it is closely encompassed on all sides by gently rising Hills covered with Wood – In the back Ground to the South rises the second Mountain of North Wales called Cader-Idris viz. Arthur’s Chair.
Sunday 31:st
Rose at four in the morning and mounted to the very Pinnacle of Cader Idris which sharp point is called the Cader or Chair – It is a mighty Hill, and commands in fine Weather (which may only be expected in the Months of May and June) a most extensive View; we could see little in perfection, thick Clouds encompassing us on all sides – It employed us six hours in going and returning from this Hill. From Dolgelly continued our Journey by Pont Newidd20
a Bridge of one Arch (very well worthy Observation) to Pont Drws Nant (a comfortable [?Cottage]) from thence taking the Right Hand side of Lake Lyntegid [sic] [sic], proceeded on to Bala – This lake is a most noble peice [sic] of Water, three miles in length, and in some parts one in breadth, remarkable clear as signified (Wallice) by its name – The Rivers Avon yr Pandy and Dee besides many inconsiderable Springs and Rivulets from the neighbouring Hills, supply this charming Lake – Where the Lake ends, is the first bridge on the Dee, which River becomes early considerable from the Assistance of so noble a Reservoir. I must somewhere observe and I may as well do it here that the Bridges in North Wales are universally well if not finely built – The Piers and Buttresses of every Arch are often fixed on the Rock which in many places very [?apropos] rises above the bed of the River – I could mention several immediately under this description -----------
Bala famous for Woollen Stockings –
Monday Septr. 1:st
Proceeded on by Llandrillo to Corwen, one of the sweetest Rides in Wales; It would be supererogation in me to enter into a minute detail of the Charms of this Ride; The following Letter (written as I have very good Reason to believe by one of our Party) under the description of the View from Keven Ucha [sic], particularly points out the similar Beauties of the Country between Bala and Corwen by Llandrillo. Corwen Romantickly situated under a Rock which almost overhangs and threatens a part of the Town: In our Road from Corwen to Llangollen along the steep Banks of the Dee passed Glendowrdy [sic], the Estate and Seat of that Old Conjurer and Arch Rebel Owen Glendower (as Shakespeare calls him) properly Owen of Glendowrdy -----
Reached Erthig this night having spent on the tour of Wales four Weeks within two days ------
S.r
Langollen [sic] is a small Town, about four miles from Chirck Castle [sic] in Denbighshire (the noble and delightful Seat of Richard Myddelton Esqr.) and about twelve miles from Oswestry; it is situated in a little Vale, upon the River Dee, over which there is a very elegant strong stone Bridge of four or five large Arches, whose foundation is not to be shaken, each buttress and Pier being built upon the same Rock, which extends itself from one side of the River to the others. The Rapidity and great winding Progress of the Water occasions a foam and noise extremely awfull [sic] and pleasing; almost every ten yards exhibits the finest Cascade in nature the whole River being composed of them. Many Hills in various directions, of most amazing and different Heights almost encompass the Town – There is to be had plenty of good provision, particularly Mutton, for which Llangollen is ever in Wales famous – I mentioned this that if any
person has an Inclination to visit this Paradisical Spot, I can promise him most pleasing entertainment, and good Food. But Sir! I have not yet done with the beauties of this Place; I treat you in the order in which I was treated myself; for I was an Itinerant and the Visitor of a day only. About a mile off are the ruins of a Castle, called by the Inhabitants of the Country Castel Dinas Bran, which some tell us signified in English the Castle of Crow City; Bran being Welch for a Crow, and therefore it is often called Crow Castle; but I have reason to believe from some accounts which I have received that it was built by one Prince Brennus21 who lived here many Years, and then withdrew and died at Rome. The Castle is situated upon the top of a most singularly strange and amazing Hill, of a Conical Figure, whose Base cannot be above one hundred Yards in diameter, and yet I
think its perpendicular ^Height from the plain is not less than three hundred Yards; on the top of this romantick place, are the ruins of the Castle; it is extremely difficult to ascend the Hill; particular care must be taken in fixing your feet, otherwise you slip many yards down without before you stop. The Tradition of the Country is that there are great treasures within the Castle, concealed in an Iron Cradle, a considerable depth in the ruins, but that it is most dangerous to attempt to get at them, as the Devil resides there and has the care of the Cradle. This is most seriously believed by the Country People, and till this last summer no person has had the boldness to search for those riches, nor would any one have ventured then without the Assistance of a noted Conjurer in that neighbourhood, whose skill in raising the Wind, finding lost goods, and other tricks and fears in necromancy, are firmly credited by the Weak illiterate people for many miles round; this conjurer undertook to keep the old Guardian of the Iron Cradle in
subjection, and then he, and some Welch Miners came to an agreement with Mr Myddelton, the proprietor of the Castle, for leave to search there for treasure, and a formal lease was eventually drawn up and engrossed. The Men had been at Work for some time this summer, and had discovered an entrance into a Vault; but as the agreement was not executed by Mr Myddelton the miners were persuaded not to proceed. The Conjurer is an honest Carpenter with whom I have had a few days ago some Conversation upon this subject; it seems that he, and his Companions, have no kind of doubt but that there is money concealed in this Iron Cradle: but they are sometimes fearful lest it should prove of an inferior quality to Gold or silver; and that if the Cradle should contain wooden or leathern Money only, the Guardian would serve them a devilish trick. I have been at the top of this very amazing Place, which is most wonderful and astonishing, and saw where the poor Fellows had been at labour, [?brutales]!
I could not see the Iron Cradle or terrifick protector of it. It is said, that Prince Brennus left papers behind him in Italy, which are now in some Repository at Rome, and were a few years ago discovered by some Gentlemen there, which gave an account of this Castle, and the treasure which is concealed within it. Certain it is, that two Italian Gentlemen22 came over to England, and applied to Mr Myddelton’s father for permission to search the Ruins; and it is said, they could not agree about it. By the appearance of the ruins, the Castle was a large building and covered the whole top of the Hill, and seems to have been built with the Stones dug from the Rock there. About a mile from this Castle, and the same distance from Llangollen, are very curious and pleasing Ruins of the Abbey of Crusis [sic]; several Arches and Towers are yet standing, and a Farm House and Barn are formed out of some of the Apartments. The Situation of this Abbey is perhaps the finest in the World for
a melancholy and monkishly religious Retirement; hills, hanging Woods, a winding rushing River, and a few fine Meadows surround it. In my ride from Llangollen towards Chirk Castle, on the top of a large Hill, called Keven-Ucha, I saw one of the finest ravishing prospects possible to be conceived by man; I think no poetic description can exceed it; I really cannot describe it with any justness; on one hand are the fine high pointed Hills around Llangollen with Crow Castle on the top of one of them; on the other hand, you have a most extensive View for above fifty miles, of a great part of Denbighshire, Flintshire, Cheshire, Shropshire, and Staffordshire. At the foot of the Hill on which I stood, is an amazing and most enchanting sight of the rolling meandering Dee; above which, on the opposite side, are fine hanging Woods, interspersed with rich pastures and corn Feilds [sic]; at the bottom, upon the margin of the River, are beautiful Meadows with neat Cottages, and behind the Hill
is a continual Range of Mountains, some of which are heathy, while others have a fine Verdure. It is really worth any person’s while to travel two hundred miles for the sake of this prospect only. This with the other Views and appearances about Llangollen have given me greater pleasure than ever I received from the finest Garden, parks, or buildings in England. Llangollen and the circumjacent places only two miles round, are I think the greatest Curiosities, the most romantick, the most pleasing, the most astonishing and delightful upon the face of the Earth. I never read of any Views so luxuriant and Ravishing.
I am, Sir!
Yours etc:
Dico tibi –
From a green
turf Offa’s dike [sic]
Sept:r 5:th 1766