| ID: | 0018 [see the .xml file] |
|---|---|
| Identifier: | Hoare’s Bank Archives HFM, 19/14/1 |
| Editors: | Edited with an introduction by Elizabeth Edwards |
| Cite: | 'Journal of a Tour into N. Wales by Sophia Hoare, 1808 ' edited with an introduction by Elizabeth Edwards in Curious Travellers Digital Editions [editions.curioustravellers.ac.uk/doc/0018] |
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We left London July 29. 1808 and arrived at Oxford by Six O’Clock to Dinner: The Roads were delightful from the Rain that had fallen, after the very hot Weather we had experienced, and it was more like a refreshing agreeable Airing, than a Journey which in general I have no particular fancy for. I wrote a Note to our Friend Mr P. who had promised to be our Guide in seeing the Lions, to give notice of our Arrival, and asked him to Breakfast with us the following Morning, that we might have plenty of time before us, to see all that was curious & entertaining. We went first to the Theatre, a large Circular Building, where the Prize Poems are recited 1 in the presence of the Chancellor2 who is seated
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in the ^Centre of the Semi circular part, the Nobleman & Doctors on his right & left hand, with the Proctors & Curates in their Robes, Master of Arts, Batchelors & Under Graduates in their respective habits & places, together with Strangers 3 of both Sexes: making in all when filled upwards of 4000 Persons. – The Building is adorned with Statues of the Founder Archbishop Sheldon and the Duke of Ormond likewise Sir Christopher Wren the Architect; The Roof of the Theatre is very remarkable, being supported without Pillars although it is 80 Feet one way by 90 the other and only sustained by the Side Walls our next Visit was to the Logic & Moral Philosophy Schools where there is a very fine Collection of Statues, Marbles, Busts &c. We saw likewise the Clarendon Printing officef. 2r
built in 1711 with the profits arising from L.d. Clarendon's History – It is a most noble Edifice 115 feet in length & consists of two lofty Stories – On the Top are Statues of the Nine Muses, and over the Entrance a Statue of the Earl of Clarendon.The Radcliffe Library was our next Object and very well worth seeing it is – It stands in a fine Area and Dr. John Radcliffe left the sum of 40,000 Pounds to build it and provide a Librarian with a Salary 150 [...] There are an immense Number of Books, which are continually increasing as one Hundred a Year is appropriated to the buying of Books – There are two superb Roman Candlesticks in this Library, given to the University by Sir Roger Newdigate
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found in the Ruins of the Emperor Adrian’s Palace at Tivoli, in the Campagna Romana. - We went next to Christ Church College where our Guide left us for a short time while he went about some business of his own, which gave us an Opportunity of examining the fine Collection of Pictures presented by General Guise, amongst the most remarkable of which are a Portrait of Titian painted by himself likewise of the Duke of Alva & a Venetian Nobleman - The Family of the Caraccis is presented in a Butcher’s Shop a most beautiful Susanna & the Elders by Tintoret I think - and a dying Magdalen supported by Cherubim one of the most beautiful Pictures I ever saw. Thef. 3r
Stair Case and Entrance to this College have lately been greatly Altered & improved by Mr Wyatt, and the Hall is by far the most magnificent Room of the kind in Oxford: the Roof framed of Timber curiously wrought. The Kitchen is likewise well worth seeing – In the Church of this College which is the Cathedral of the Diocese is some fine Painted Glass, and in the Tower, which makes a singular and beautiful Appearance on the outside of the Building are ten Celebrated Bells including the Great One called Tom, which weighs eight Tons & a half on the sound of which the Scholars of the University use to retire to their respective Colleges. All Souls Library & College was our next Sight, the Chapel is famous for its finef. 3v
Altar Piece painted by Mengs, and called by the Painters a “Noli me tangere” in Allusion to the Subject which is our Saviour’s first Appearance in the Garden to Mary Magdalen after his Resurrection, when he says “touch me not” &c.The Library is 300 Feet long and over the Book Cases are placed Busts of the Eminent Persons who were formerly Fellows of the College. – The beautiful Gardens and Walks belonging to the Colleges pleased me as much as any part of it only that I grew very much tired at last with seeing and hearing so much. – New College however I was highly delighted with – the Chapel especially and the Great Window with Sir Joshua's beautiful designs painted by Jarvis
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The Altar piece of Sculpture is most exquisite performance consisting of five compartments over the Communion Table, representing in Marble Altorelivo 1. The Salutation of the Virgin Mary. 2 the Nativity of our Saviour. 3. The taking down from the Cross. 4. The Resurrection. 5. The Ascension. They were done by a famous Artist Mr. Westmacott - the Crozier of the Founder, William of Wykeham, is a well preserved piece of Antiquity – We went into the Garden Court which is separated from the garden by an Iron Gate & Pallisade where we unluckily shut ourselves in and if we had not happen to find a student sitting reading in the Alcove who kindly lent us his Key, we mightf. 4v
have been detained longer than we wished. The Bodleian Library was unfortunately shut, so we only saw the Picture Gallery where there was nothing very remarkable except a beautiful Mary Queen of Scots by Vandyke. The Library is named after Sir Thomas Bodley the principal Founder it is built in the Form of a Roman H and is said to the greatest number of Books of any Library in Europe. - I was extremely pleased with Magdalen College & Chapel the Windows of which are very fine – There is a very large Altar Piece of the last Judgement and underneath it a very fine Picture of our Saviour bearing his Cross supposedf. 5.r
to be by Guido & reckoned the finest Picture in the World, brought into England by the late Duke of Ormond - the Hall is handsomely fitted up & adorned with many whole length Portraits of the late President, Founder, Benefactors &c - the Grove and Gardens belonging to thisf. 5v
to conduct us to Dinner at his Chamber at Merton College which he likewise showed us. We met at Dinner a Friend of his an agreeable Man, and after taking another Walk in Merton College Gardens which are beautiful and quite private we stepped into our Chaise where I fell fast asleep and never woke till I arrived at Chapel House, where we drank Tea and slept. On Sunday we set out for Birmingham, and stopped in our Way to see Kennelworth Castle which disappointed me but having heard so much of it, I was glad to see it. The Building occupies a great deal of Space but there was nothing picturesque in the general appearance. Warwick Castle fully answered my Expectations, it is quitef. 6r
magnificent with all the grandeur of an Ancient Structure. It unites all the Convenience & Elegance of a Modern Residence – the Water all Round – The fine Woods and the prodigious thickness of the Walls in some part Six Yards thick proves the Strength & solidity of ancient Architecture – a fine Collection of Pictures, particularly Vandykes, and the most beautiful inlaid Cabinets of various kinds & forms that ever were seen likewise the old armoury, and some ^warlike Instruments collected by the present Lord Warwick from the South Seas. We walked a little about the Plantations saw the green house &c. &c and returned to our Carriage, which we did not quit till our Arrival at Birmingham^Monday night - the next Morning we were in hopes of seeing the Manufacturersf. 6v
and the Curiosities but the violent Storms of Rain impeded our progress and obliged us to return wet through to the Inn, which we quitted when I had changed all my Cloaths – We could not stop at the Soho, though we passed close to it, the Rain was so violent – We arrived late at Elsmere where I was rather unwell and the Dinner or rather Supper was of the very worst description – We left Elsmere early that we might reach Brynbella by their Dinner hour but we were detained at Mold by the want of Horses, and there being a Fair in the Street, all was bustle and Confusion – Miss Gwen lived two Miles out of the Town, or we should have paid her a Visit – the Road from hence to Brynbellaf. 7r
was beautiful but as we approached my Mother's, the roughness and steepness made me fear least our Cattle should be unable to get there – At ½ past Five however we arrived, and were cordially welcomed in the Hall – They were at Dinner Salisbury with them Mr P. worse certainly that when I saw him last but likely to live some time. 4 We dined and chatted all the Evening except taking a little turn and admiring the beautiful Situation & extensive prospect. We generally walked out in the Morning, once to Bachegraig, and once up the steep Crag above the House from whence there is a still more beautiful View than from the House – Lord and Ly. Kirkwall dined there on Thursday – and Mr. Myddelton & his Son anotehr Day - Mr. Moore the Apothecaryf. 7v
used generally to come in the Evening and on Sunday we went to St. Asaph Cathedral heard the new Bishop who preached very well – Dean Shipley read, and my Mother with whom I went in the Chaise amused me with Stories of him and his disagreements with his Neighbours – We went and came through Llanerch Park which is a fine object from Brynbella and well stocked with Deer. Mrs. Mostyn and Salisbury came to Dinner and we arranged our Plans with her who was to accompany us in the Tour we purposed to make She was obliged to take her Boys to the Sea, on the Tuesday following, so we fixed to set out by ourselves and meet her at Beddgelert We accordingly left Brynbella Monday yef. 8r
9th and went through St. Asaph to Abergele when we walked down to the Sea, the Style of bathing appears very inconvenient and the distance from the little Town is considerable – when the Horses were baited (for they had no fresh ones) we proceeded to Conway - the Road thither is finely diversified with Rock, Sea, Wood, & Mountain: and Penman Mawr is a most strikingf. 8v
where we were detained two hours for the ferry Boat,5 and various impediments dur which time we took a Walk for the purpose of getting a better View of the Castle and I attempted a Sketch of its beautiful remains. We then crossed over, took from refreshment and set out to Bangor Ferry where we arrived late, and our Servants & luggage still later for unfortunately one of their Wheels came off as they were descending Penman Mawr. - The Inn at Bangor Ferry was so full that we had wretched Accommodation but we were woke by an excellent Harper who amused us most agreeably, till our departure – as we were walking by the Side of the Menai River and admiring the beautiful Vessels on the Water, one attractedf. 9r
our Notice particularly, & we were a good deal surprized on seeing one of the Gentlemen for there was a large Party on board bowing to us and appearing to know us presently another did the same & soon after he got into the Boat belonging to the Vessel and was rowed towards us – I then perceived that it was Cpn Lloyd who came with a very polite Message from Mr. & Mrs. Owen Williams to whom the Vessel belonged, tof. 9v
Caernarvon is beautiful, and the Weather so uncommonly clear & fine, that we were gratified with a distinct View of Snowdon and the long and vast Chain of Mountains belnging to it: We at length got within Sight of Caernarvon, and the fine Turrets of the Castle made their appearance – the Building appears to have been on a more extensive scale than Conway, but the situation is inferior, it is so choaked up with Houses and what was formerly the outer Coast of the Castle is now filled with Streets – the Hotel to which we were recommended, was too full to take us in, so we were obliged to take up our Abode at the Sportsman where our Dinner was excellent – Bed very small & inconvenient. We took a charming Walkf. 10r
in the Evening, and I made a Drawing of some sort, surrounded by a Number of little dirty Children all chattering welch – indeed we had heard nothing Else from the lower Classes since we left Brynbella, and it was only now & then that the Post Boys or the Maids at the Inns could understand us or us them. We scrambled up a very steep Rocky Hill just above the Hotel and I had some difficulty in getting down again, but we at length reached our Inn, and the following Morning we were shown the Interior of the Castle and the Room, or the remains of it where Edward 2nd. was born.6 – Our Road from Carnarvon to Beddgelert was beyond any thing beautiful & I could not help trying to give some Idea of it on Paper while the Chaise was going on – The Situation of Beddgelert is picturesquef. 10v
in the highest degree, so infinitely superior to what I had fancied it – The little Bridge the Church and the beautiful scattered Village at the foot of such an immense Mountain is very striking indeed7 – in our Way hither we passed a Cottage of Sir Robert Williams set in a most romantic Spot near a Cascade and opposite to the huge Llewelyn Rock. Snowdon lay on our left hand & on the right were small Lakes all bounded & surrounded with Mountains various in Size & form, but all beautiful – We could have but very indifferent Accomodation at the Inn, and could procure a Bed for Cecy with the greatest difficulty – we were sitting at the Window admiring the View from it when she cantered up to us on her black Horse; I was delighted that all had turnedf. 11r
out so exactly as we had planned it, with the addition of the finest Weather that ever was seen. – We dined very comfortably & afterwards, took a most beautiful Walk on the Capel Cerig Road that she had come in the Morning – nothing could exceed it – the rushing Water over the large heaps of Stones, the Mountains all round us with just Wood enough, and the goats skipping and bounding about regardless of the Precipices beneath them, the setting Sun gilding and animating this delightful Scene, left us nothing to wish, that external objects could bestow. – On the following Morg Augst. 12 we all started on Horse back, to see Tremadoc, and the Embankment all built and made by Maddocks, and a veryf. 11v
wonderful Performance it is – We passed the Pont Aberglaslyn and near it we met him driving a Curricle towards Beddgelert - he was very civil invited us to his House & proposed our all going in a Party to Barmouth with his Nieces &c. &c. The Salmon leap and Bridge I determined to attempt drawing, in my Way to Tan y bwlch but Cecy & Henry insisted on my taking some Remembrance of part of the Road near Tre Madoc - which I did – Tan yr allt Mr. M's Cottage is charmingly situated, and over looking his Embankments which seem to succeed admirably, as what was was Sand & Sea is now fine Pasture for Cattle and numbers were grazing on it, and other Fields appropriated to different agriculturalf. 12r
purposes. I looked in at the Inn which will be capital when finished – there had been a large Party the Day before attending the Races, Plays Dinners &c. and a very fine Room for the purpose, over the Future Town Hall which served as the Theatre. We returned to Beddgelert, and towards ^Evening Cecy remounted after our Luncheon and arrived at Tan y bwlch before us, and procured us a charming Lodging within a hundred Yards of the Inn which was as usual quite full – Mr. Oakley's Woods looked most inviting and the pretty little Vale of Festiniog but we were too much tired to take a Walk after Dinner and to Day Augst. 13th it pours with Rain, the first we have seen since we set out. Aug 13th. Saturday – At Intervals the Weather became very tolerable notwithstandingf. 12v
the unfavourable Appearance of the Skies and after Dinner we took a most charming Walk in Mr. Oakley's Woods and Grounds which are quite lovely – the prettiest Bridge & Waterfall than can be seen, & a sweet View of the River & Vale between the Trees, Henry met with a Friend on our Return to the Inn, indeed the whole Road and all the best of the Accommodations were taken by the Quantity of Company that was all flocking the same way – After much Advice & pro & Con as to the impracticability of the Scheme we determined to go to Harlech from Tan-y-bwlch in the Chaise the Weather was too bad for Cecy to ride so we all set out – but such a Road was never seen I think – in some parts quitef. 13r
perpendicular so very steep that it was with difficulty we could walk up, and how the Horses ever did it was amazing – and the least false step would have sent them all over the immense precipice beneath – In one place where there was a sort of Gateway, the pass was so narrow that the Wall was obliged to be taken down to admit the Carriage – At last after immeasurable perils & dangers we saw Harlech Castle rising beautifully in the distance and overlooking the BayIt stands on a high Eminence and the outside Walls are very intire - We had something to eat at the little wretched Alehouse while the Horses were
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baited, and proceeded to Barmouth where there was a large Party at the ordinary the Inn quite filled and we were under the necessity of having two separate Lodgings – we walked a little in the Evening but the Rain and Wind were violent – Sir Watkin and his sisters &c &c were there and he sent to invite us to his Cottage at Bala.Monday 15th. We were fortunate in a beautiful Day to enjoy the fine Drive to Dolgelly - it is one of the most beautiful ten Miles I ever saw Cader Idris was however veiled in Clouds – we got house Room fortunately, and as the Weather was fair I strongly advised taking the opportunity of seeing the Falls – Ponys
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were accordingly procured and under the guidance of the most extraordinary looking Old Creature that ever was seen we sallied forth – Dol Mechyleth which is in Mr. Maddock's Grounds was the first we saw it is beautiful dashing over large black Rocks with quantities of beautiful Wood growing in the most picturesque Manner possible, this is about five Miles from Dolgelly, we then proceeded to Caer Ryaidir which is much the highest the fall being 60 feet and the Mowther Fall which is near it I thought when I was here before by much the most beautiful but it has been cruelly stripped of Wood – our Cattle were dreadfully tired beforef. 14v
we reached our Inn and we had hardly strength to force them on – we however effected it at about 9 – when we dined and retired to our Couches literally – Breakfasted with Sir Richard and Mr. Fenton who we found here and proceeded ^(a rainy Day) to Bala - dined and walked to Sir R's Cottage^(fine in the Evening) to Tea. A low Building with a Colonade, stands in a Field close to the Lake of which it commands a fine View. The Rooms very good indeed, and connected to the Farm House by a long passage and Steps. The next Morning being very fine Cecy determined to ride to Capel Cerrig across the Mountain a much nearer Way than we could go. – our Road lay along the Banks of the Dee which takes its Rise in Bala Pool and the Sceneryf. 15r
improves much in the first ten Miles tof. 15v
short forming such an assemblage of the sublime and beautiful, that it should be seen; to be properly felt, for description falls short in the Attempt – Capel cerrig is a large single House built on an Eminence commanding the pretty Lake or Pool,f. 16r
be seen from hence – So we set out in the Chaise with the Guide on Horse back leading our Ponies which we use to mount when the Ascent to Snowdon became difficult – this happened about four Miles from Capel Curig and the pass we went was quite tremendous scarcely any path & what there was, filled with large broken Stones & pieces of Rock which had fallen down – The precipices we passed with but just Room for our Ponies and the heigth together made me quite giddy so that [...] I did not so much enjoy the awfully grand Scenery by which we were completely encompassed – The River dashing over the Rocks was our only guide till between an opening in one of the huge Rocks we espied Dolbadarn Castle, which together with the Villagef. 16v
& Lake of Llanberis was the Object of our Excursion – At last after toiling and travelling many Miles, we came within Sight of the Water – so passing through the Village which is composed of the most miserable mud Huts and a very picturesque Church, all embosomed in Trees, we wound along by the Side of the Lake till we reached Dolbadarn Castle - Mr. Ashton Smith who owns the Copper Works near the Castle has a Cottage opposite to it – the Lake it divided by a narrow neck of Land which has a bad Effect the lower Lake is one Mile in length, the Upper above the Castle 4 Miles – we returned to the Village and our Guide rode on before to procure us some refreshment . – This we found, in the most miserable Hole If. 17r
ever beheld in the likeness of a House – the bare earth was the Floor, & that very uneven & damp, the Walls were a mixture of Moss Stones, peat, and the old broken Beams one pane of Glass for a Window, and ^an old Ladder for Staircase – the Guide broiled us a Couple of Fish over a peat Fire in another Apartment and with some Eggs & Milk we did very well. Returned over Snowdon & met the Carriage which I was happy enough to occupy – The next Morning we went through a fine Mountainous Country to see the Slate Quarrys and Lady Penrhyn’s Cottage opposite. There is a Lake on the Road there which is strikingly beautiful entirely surrounded by immense Mountains – the Cottage isf. 17v
highly ornamented on the outside – and the most lovely Plants & Flowers growing in at the Windows in the highest state of perfection & luxuriance – Quantities of large Trees beside and a pretty little winding Walk down to the Waterfall which is a beautiful Object from the House – the Quarry was curious to a degree – hundreds of People employed. The Mountains appear to be all Slate – as they frequently split it in part, with Gunpowder and have regular Roads & Works carrying on at the different heights – large Walls of Slate on every Side of us with great Machines Engines and Work people in all directions – we returned highly gratified dined and in the Evening attempted a Walk up thef. 18r
opposite Mountain, which appeared from the Inn Window very practicable but we found it quite the Contrary as the light failed us and we returned over Bogs & Stones fatigued to Death in the Dark – Saturday we started for Segroyt, lost our Way and never arrived till two Hours after her Dinner hour – met Ly. Kirkwall in the Dingle. Sunday we went to Denbigh Church, we were too Early and walked all over the Castle, sat on the Bowling Green till the Bell rang – Miss Mostyns sat in the Pew with us, expected to have met Mrs. Wynne & Maria at Church – called on the Mostyns, and afterwards went to Gwanonog – a large Party of Ladies there & Children – Mrs Myddelton veryf. 18v
handsome, but looking half dead. Monday we went to Wickwor - Squire Jones called and mounted the Box with Henry (at the risk of his Life) to shine to his Denbigh Friends – We were delighted with Wickwor & walked all over it. Tuesday we went to Llewesog - Mr Ed.d. Thelwall dined there – long Scene with Mrs. W and Maria in the Evening – we fixed to stay till Thursday – Wednesday took a long Walk – the Woods & Water beautiful Thursday we went nutting in the Boat & Fishing – a large Party of Maddocks's from Vron iw ^called - took Bertie back in the Chaise he had rode there the Day before – Henry walked back. found Cecy arranging Matters for her Dinner – L.d. Kirkwallf. 19r
Dr. Myddelton Mr. M Biddulph, Clough, Dr.Curmiss and ourselves were the Party It went off very well indeed & they all staid till Eleven – Fryday it rained and Squire Jones came to Dinner. Saturday Cecy & Self went to Vron iw, Henry walked to Brynbella. Sunday we all went to Church at Denbigh. met Mostyns Myddeltons &c. and proceeded to Lleweney there we walked about saw the House paintings &c dressed when the Servants arrived, dined most sumptuously in the Great Hall nobody but ourselves and the Chaplain chatted all Evening, supped, and went to Bed – Cecy very unwell – Ly. K likewise In the Morning walked all over the Grounds with Ld. K. saw all his Variety of Telescopesf. 19v
Books Maps, Fishing Tackle Hothouses Gardens &c. Sir Richard Hoare & Mr. Fenton arrived – we all met at Dinner at Brynbella except Ly. K who had a sore Throat – Mr. Piozzi had been very ill indeed, but was well enough to appear. The rest of the Party were Sir John and Lady Williams, Capt.Bose, the Dr. and Mr. Myddelton and our selves – Tuesday was rather wet, but we walked in the Evening – Wednesday Bertie came on Horseback Lucy went away with him to Prestatyn - a large Party came from Gwanonog - very Showery – Thursday Henry went Shooting with Ld. K - Sir Richard rode to Bacheygraig &c. I walked a little with my Mother took a View of the House. Mr [...]f. 20r
dines, Mr. Moore came in the EveningFryday ye. 2d. We left Brynbella - left Sir Richard there expecting Mr. Fenton, who we met in our Way to Lleweny where we stopped to leave to Books Ld K had lent me – proceeded to Ruthyn in a pouring Rain with difficulty Horses to take us on to Llangollen - The last Ten Miles very fine – distant View of the Mountains – we took leave of the Vale of Cleydd - and the Vale of Llangollen opened to our View which tho’ small is extremely picturesque & very striking – highly cultivated & beautifully sequestered Valle Crucis Abbey a charming Object, encompassed with Wood – we arrived at Llangollen and sent the Note my Mother had given us to Ly. Eleanor Butler - There was a famous Methodist Preacher in the Village a Brother of Sir Richard Hills - all the people in the Place were gone to hear him. We secured a very
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polite Invitation from the Ladies to Breakfast with them the following Morning. – We went at the hour appointed and found them not yet come down. The Cottage is full of Elegance and Convenience, and excellent Library in a small Gothick Room fitted up for the purpose, beautiful painted Glass, and quantities of Miniatures and Drawings by & of their Friends – They had every new publication Marmion most elegantly bound, sent them by the Princess of Wales, and numberless other Prints in Books Drawing Materials, China, &c. &c. They showed us everything and were so agreeable in their Conversation & manners that I felt quite unwilling to leave them We walked with ^them all over their beautiful little Grounds, which are highly picturesque andf. 21r
well stocked with all useful as well as ornamental plants, Shrubs and Flowers – They gave us Partridge Fruit Flowers and what I vallued far more than all a sweet little Drawing of the Cottage by Miss Ponsonby. They walked with us into the Village where we parted, resolving never to come again to Llangollen without renewing our Acquaintance with these amiable Recluses – We had spent so many Hours in their agreeable Society that our plan of seeing Hawkstone, we were forced to relinquish so we passed Winstay and Chirk Castle, saw the Aqueduct and Coal Works, navigable Canal till we came to Ellesmere which is prettily situated with several fine pieces of Water – the Country now became very flat & uninteresting and we began to hear English talked again by the common people. We arrived late & tired to Shrewsbury andf. 21v
found the Lion an excellent Inn, where we dined, slept and Breakfasted on Sunday Morning Sepr. 4th - Nothing interesting in the Road till we approached Ludlow, where the Castle stands in a very commanding Situation, and the Town is well worth seeing – The Country around it is very woody, and the beautiful Remains of the Castle engaged our particular Attention – It is one of the Grandest Ruins I have seen, and the Circular Tower in the Interior is very striking and the fine Saxon Arch quite perfect. – We passed several Gentleman’s Seats and not far from Worcester we saw Ld. Foley's an ugly Building, and a bright Red brick Chapel close to it. We arrived late at Worcester where the Inn was crowded as usual, but the accommodation tolerable – The Bridge veryf. 22r
handsome, & broad well paved Streets. The Moon shone beautifully and numbers of of people were walking about, and the Bells ringing for the Victory over the french Troops in Spain & Portugal 8 - It poured with Rain all Monday almost & we could hardly get a tolerable View from the Chaise Windows, we passed [...] & Beauchamp - both fine places – it luckily cleared up for our Drive through Blenheim Park which is very grand indeed – the largest and finest piece of Artificial Water there is in the Kingdom, the Bridge is heavy, but the House looks like a Palace, and any one of the parts of which it is composed would contain a large Family & a suitable Establishment – we went thro’ Woodstock and arrived at Oxford at six o Clock to Dinner. I now considered myselff. 22v
as at Home, and the next Morning Tuesday the 6th. of Sepber. we set out intending to walk on till the Carriages should overtake us but being attracted by a Print Shop in our Way we were so occupied with looking over some Drawings & Painting &c. that we never saw the Chaises go by so it was lucky that we caught them again by their having the Sense to turn back for us. We arrived in Town about 6 o’Clock to Dinner.