In the summer of 1805, the 22-year-old Cornelius Varley sat in the Vale of Llanllyfni, with Snowdon some seven miles to the east of him, and contemplated the sky. Visiting Wales in the middle of a prolonged rainy spell, Varley, a watercolourist and maker of scientific instruments, was trying to understand the workings of the clouds he could see moving and shapeshifting over Snowdonia. He turned to a theory of electricity in order to do so, proposing that clouds, and rain, were governed by a system of charged electrical particles.
Varley was born in Hackney in 1781, a younger brother to John Varley (1778-1842), who as an artist would turn out to be the better-known of the two men. The early death of their father resulted in John Varley being apprenticed to a painter, while Cornelius Varley was raised by and in turn apprenticed to his uncle, Samuel Varley, a watchmaker, maker of scientific instruments and scientific lecturer. Varley describes this background, and his precocious skill in making his own scientific apparatus – especially lenses and microscopes – in the early part of this undated tour-memoir. By 1811 he would have invented and patented the graphic telescope, a drawing aid in the form of a device that magnifies the subject to be drawn and projects it onto paper.1
Varley’s 1805 visit to Wales was one of several Welsh tours he made just after the turn of the century in the company of his brother and other artists, including Joshua Cristall (1767–1847) and William Havell (1782-1857), almost certainly in order to sketch landscapes from real life. Little information survives about the Varley brothers’ 1802 tour but drawings and watercolours dating from this year, including of Llangollen, Barmouth and Conwy Castle, suggest a typical itinerary for this period. Several undated sketches, including a view of Llanberis (fig. 1) that shows Cornelius Varley’s spare and sensitive view of landscape, almost certainly date either from this tour or those that followed it in 1803 and 1805.

Fig. 1. Cornelius Varley, ‘Sunlight over a Lake near Snowdon, Llanberis, North Wales’ (1800-1810), watercolour, Rijksmuseum
Varley’s grey washed ‘Carnarvon Castle’ (fig. 1), which is clearly dated 1802, is characteristic of many of the images he produced in this period: naturalistic and meteorological in its depiction of atmospheric conditions, with a curiously flattened quality to the building and parts of the background. The capacity of clouds and mists, especially as they interact with light, to thicken, obscure or empty out the subject of a painting is a frequent theme in Varley’s work. His interest in light and weather is evident in his 1803 tour, which includes an episode on Cader Idris in which he encounters a Brocken Spectre in the company of Joshua Cristall:
golden Vapour began to play on our Mountain, but on looking Eastward that end of the mountain was coverd [sic] by a luminous fog or Cloud on which we saw ˄ in perfection (what has been mysteriously described as the Spectre of the Brocken) a bright halo or ring of light with our distinct Shaddows [sic] within… (f. 3r)

Fig. 2. Cornelius Varley, ‘Caernarfon Castle’ (1802), watercolour, Yale Center for British Art
Varley’s explorations on and off the page of landscape and weather in Wales directly coincide with attempts by other observers to understand atmospheric science, among them the chemist and meteorologist Luke Howard, who classified the clouds in a lecture of 1802.2 In the early nineteenth century, Howard was also attempting to explain atmospheric phenomena by means of electrical theory. When Varley returned to Wales in 1805, the science of clouds in relation to electricity was much on his mind. This tour represents a different kind of visit from the earlier tours in several ways: this time Varley travels alone, and in extreme weather (‘the whole season was so rainy that in most places I was the only traveller’ – f. 2r). He was also on a scientific expedition as well as a painting one: ‘having been familiar with the known Electrical experiments I was better prepared & more at liberty to observe and understand what I saw’ (f. 2r).
Varley’s Welsh tour is by no means a typical home tour for the period. Part retrospective travelogue written some time after the events it describes, and part autobiography, it is also an example of the scientific first-person narrative, often slanted towards (self-)experimentation, employed by contemporaries such as Thomas Beddoes and Humphry Davy.2 The text reproduced in this edition is presented with a four-page manuscript Appendix, which is closely related to the expanded account of atmosphere and electricity Varley published in the Philosophical Magazine in 1807. In this account clouds appear structured by electricity; ball-like particles, each one orbited by electricity is what holds them together, he suggests. ‘The remarks which I offer’, he later wrote in the 1807 published article, ‘are founded on actual observations, which any person may easily verify, and on the known and admitted laws of electricity.’ While his researches in prose aim at rational explanation, the emptied scenes of his most enigmatic Welsh watercolours suggest no such easy resolution.
Note on the source text:
The manuscript source for this edition is a fragmentary autobiographical text in Cornelius Varley’s hand. In the source text, Varley frequently leaves space on the page in the page in place of standard punctuation. Aiming at a readable text, this edition substitutes full stops for spaces on the page where the text may otherwise be difficult to follow. This edition also reproduces a further manuscript as an appendix: this text, titled ‘A Theory of the Atmosphere shewing the formation of Clouds’ is a draft of the scientific paper Varley published in 1807 as ‘On Atmospheric Phænomena: particularly the Formation of Clouds’ (see explanatory notes on the text for further details of the relationship between these two versions).
Notes
1 For an example and further explanation of Varley’s graphic telescope, see here [external link].
2 Richard Hamblyn, The Invention of Clouds: How an Amateur Meteorologist Forged the Language of the Skies (London: Picador, 2001).
3 See Tim Fulford, ‘Science and Poetry in 1790s Somerset: The Self-Experiment Narrative, the Aeriform Effusion, and the Greater Romantic Lyric’, English Literary History 85: 1 (Spring 2018), pp. 85-117.
Further reading:
f. 1r
Cornelius Varley’s Narrative written by himself
Our Family were all born at Hackney in a large house that had been the Blue post Tavern with large garden & Fruit trees & Grounds with some large trees. I was born on the 21st of November 1782. When about 4 yr. old I fell head foremost out of a first floor window I was soon afterwards taken to see the deep impression of my head the softness of the ground saved me from any harm that I can remember (Gall the Phrenologist attributed to such a fall the starting into activity of his intelect) our mothers name was fleetwood regular descended from Genrl. Fleetwood who married Cromwells daughter).
We lost our Father before I was quite 10 yr. when near 12 My Uncle S.l Varley took charge of me he had always been progressing in Mechanical & Scientific knowledge
It was my good fortune to be with him during the most important of his ^experiments in Philosophical
& Chemical progress science having to help him in every thing & so had to put my hand to all kinds of work
When I was first there he was engaged in watch & watch escapment1
making & in Jewelling them & had several pupils from the country Male & female learning those arts. It was there I first saw the wonders of Science &
became eager to make some lenses then that my practice in polishing might be profitable I was set to work the jewels for jewell’d holes of watches. These
^are made of rubies the diamond is for ornament not for use, a thin polished ruby disk is under it to touch the pivot end. Thus I made many sets
& fitted them accurately into their respective watches. ^
my Uncle having made excellent tools for that purpose
Whilst soldering diamonds into their steel mountings with a blow pipe I saw one take fire a small flame rose from it (this was confirm’d some
yrs after when I saw diamonds purposely burnt under the Oxygen blow pipe).2
After this I made lenses & the microscopes for them
Bees wax harden’d by much polishing powder3 in it was used for polishing all our lenses it is not strong enough to scratch & has no springing or yielding but fits perfectly close to the lens & so secures a perfectly continuous surface & a perfect figure to the very edge
The very deepest lenses required shell lac4 strengthened with polishing powder
With this I made ^many lenses 1/30 focus ^several lenses 1/60 of an inch focus & three of the 100th. I used lenses of 1/10 & 1/20 focus to examine this very small work such lenses bear the largest apperture from being so finely perfect in surface & figure. When 14 ^ys. I made for myself a pocket microscope lenses brass work & all
In 1794 when my Uncle was 50yrs. he began adding Chemistry to his many pursuits & afterwards gave me many courses of lectures he contrived much of the apparatus which has continued in use.5 In all these I had to help & to work at Philosophical & Chemical apparatus Electrical & Galvanic
_______________________________________________________________________________
My Uncle held ^musical parties & also microscopic parties6 on one of these a lens of my making 1/30 focus was declared to greatly excel all the other Microscopes.^that were brought together on that occasion The longer a lens is being polished on the usual cloth surface the more is its figure spoil’d besides having a superfine wavy surface invisible to all but the most careful optical examination.
f. 1v
f. 2r
(2a)
I had to make large quantities of Oxygen & other gases both for his lectures & Patients he cured by Gas very many maladies that had baffled every other aid.7 I was eager after all the Chemical knowledge that were then opening on the world & had learnd that knowledge is no burden but it lightens all other burdens
In 1800 I commenced drawing & sketching from Nature taught myself & was soon engaged to teach others^
the Earl of Essex recommended me & told me what to change
& in so doing I became acquainted with some of the most amiable & excellent of the human race. In ^June
1801 I was invited to a happy mansion in Norfolk to sketch from Nature The ladies8
coming to sketch with me when ever they liked, here the hardest work I cou’d ^have perform’d was Glorious
holiday ^so closely following
compar’d with the former indoors occupation tho’ ^that was
among the wonders of science. The pure air the sense of liberty to ramble any where among the works of creation &
when indoors to be amidst the most cultivated & amiable kindness that removed care & brighten’d hope, has left an impression that nothing will efface. I remain’d in
Norfolk & then in Suffolk
9
till Midwinter sketching out of doors in frost & snow, whilst in Town I was engaged in teaching drawing &
perspective ^this I learned by having to teach it till June ^1802
when I went into North Wales & was soon join’d by My Brother ^John
& Webster.
In 1803 ^
[...]
me & Cristall went
^
[...]
into Wales
10
& was join’d by Havel. In 1804 I went to St Albans
to sketch11
I was one of the Party who held several meetings & determined on forming the Water Colour Society12
& on their first Exhibition had Pencil drawings & Colour’d sketches ^from Nature of St Albans Abbey..13
In 1805 I travelled in North Wales quite alone, for the whole season was so Rainy that in most places I was the only traveller.
This apparent solitude amidst Clouds & Mountains left me more at large “To hold converse with Natures Charms & view her stores untold”.14 For having been familiar with most of the known Electrical experiments I was better prepared & more at liberty to observe & understand what I saw. But To keep a little order I will return to 1803 when I ascended Cader Idris from from Dolgelly with Cristal, Havel, & several others.15 When evening approached all the party except me & Cristal descended for prudence sake while there was light enough to ^see their way but the increasing grandeur & brilliancy of the scene ^above detain’d us (thro’ all risks) to enjoy the splendour ^we were much higher than the surrounding mountains the Sun surrounded by small bright & lofty clouds ^illum’d the whole heavens & was spreading his beams over ^a bright ocean of lower clouds
f. 2v
f. 3r
(3a)
which in one great sheet spread over all the lower Mountains causing a gloomy ^dark & early night in all ^the valleys, & ^distant cottage light cou’d be seen feebly glimmering.16 Thus night below & glorious sun shine above, then golden Vapour began to play on out Mountain, but on looking Eastward that end of the mountain was coverd by a luminous fog or Cloud on which we saw ^in perfection (what has been mysteriously described as the Spectre of the Brocken)17 a bright halo or ring of light with our distinct Shaddows within we were on the highest brow ^of the mountain the shadow of which intercepted the lower part of the ring & on it stood our whole shadows the head of my shadow was ^in the center of his ring & my shadow beside his we threw up our hats & moved about the shadow did the same & when we ^moved rather far apart ^each others shaddow quickly lost distinctness ^& faded away but not our own for each of us had a perfect shadow & concentric ring around it. These shaddows appeared to be distant & therefore gigantic (the only cause of mystery). The suns rays penetrated into the cloud quite as far as any vapour cou’d receive our shadows ^& as cloud light spreads laterally it therefore rendered our shaddows pale & the only light on the shadows was from the blue sky consequently they appeard exactly of the same pale milky grey as only the most distant clouds & mountains can appear this gives the notion that they ^also must be far off but their distinctness ^& their size is the real corrector of that error.
The sun at 10y.^ds – from our eyes measures 3 inches ^diameter consequently our shadows at that distance has 3 inches of penumbra all round ^causing just so much softening ^or indistinctness of their margin. but at 60y.^d the sun is 18 ^inches which is about the width of our body.
Consequently the two penumbra meet & soften the whole Shaddow leaving scarcely a bur18 to indicate its place. Therefore I conclude that our shaddows were not more that 10y.d distant altho’ their pale grey colour impress’d us with a notion of their being 100 or more yds distant & exactly gigantic in that proportion. also appeared on the same angle which can be known & our shadows ^remain of one size keep to our size so measure the radius by our shadow its real diameter & its real distance may be known
This bright vision & the sun gradually disappeared leaving us in grey twilight
Clouds ^at such time are not visible when you are close to them so whilst we were being glad at the absence of clouds
^keeping from us we were suddenly enveloped in ^them
clouds & they became so dense that at arms length our finger ends touching, we cou’d not see each other we then hastend
down lower to get below these clouds & endeavord to find the horse ^track
road
but we cou’d not so we return’d close round the summit & hasten’d down the natural slope of many fallen stones sometimes sliding midst a number &
having to jump aside to avoid the loosen’d ones which rolld after us I had stiff boots on so cou’d risk more
f. 3v
f. 4r
(4a)
& being in advance of Cristal had to avoid the stones which he loosen’d some of which we heard splashing into the pool below the light from it being our only guide. This slope was certainly dangerous in the dark & with a hurried descent but having escaped it we were fairly below the clouds & cou’d see about tho the darkness was rapidly increasing we then hasten’d to see the second lower lake & groped our way down to its margin with ^its light being our only guide no track to lead us but ^when then we follow’d a track which led us along its outlet till we found ourselves in a road & here we were lighten’d of our anxiety tho it was ^so very dark ^that we coud se but little before us this road led our really weary steps into Dolgelly were we arrived after 12 O clock nearly overcome by anxiety & fatigue (^having spent a day of 18 hours) but to our delight we found a hot substantial supper on the table to which (tho’ scarcely able to keep awake) we set to in good earnest*i
A Commencement of Clouds & then of Rain
In 1805 whilst seated on the North bank of the Vale of Llanllyfni
19
Snowden seen ^on my left hand over the East.n
end the Sky was clear ^pale blue except a little lineii of small clouds sailing above the southern range & keeping their path over those summits proceeded
^eastward towards Snowdon over whose highest peak they all
^in succession passed but here they paid particular respect ^each cloud
as it approached & passed ^over the peak or highest part took a very determinate
& stratified form, but when passed & clear of its attraction they resumed their unshapely form, some
^whilst proceeding sent out projections towards 3 or 4 summits as they passed between &
drew them in again when they got passed clear of those attractions. But while these clouds were passing eastward fresh formd
one kept adding & following so they grew larger & longer towards the wind which fed them & carried them along till their size wrapped over &
hid the top line of the whole southern range of hills. Then rain began at the eastern end & obscured that portion
^of the hills & ^the rain gradually extended westward ^over the range
while the ^line of Clouds were growing for miles over the sea whose distant horizon was still clear
^and [...]
but the rain gradually extended till over the sea &
then ^progressively obscured the whole horizon. here was a single line of clouds &
rain of many miles in length I was yet in fine weather on the northern side ^& the rest of the sky clear.
At first the mountains renderd the air electrically minus
iii
& as the ^moist air followed it ^
kept
lost electricity enough so coud
not hold its vapour in invisible solution but deposited it ^& kept adding
small clouds & as these floated over the mountains they were kept minus so more clouds kept forming behind them, &
when they began to descend
______________________________________________________________________
f. 1r
A Theory of the Atmosphere shewing the formation of Clouds, their permanent existence, & their precipitation in rain or snow, & the consequent rise or fall of the Barometer, presented to the Public of Science for their examination;
by Cornelius Varley20
I will first relate the Observations which led to this Theory which every one can easyly repeat
1.st In a Thunder Storm I observ’d in the air Small specs of clouds appear which quickly grew larger & roundabout in every clear place others were forming which all kept uniting & form’d very large clouds which prov’d to be well charg’d with Electricity by discharging it in sparks on the Earth & then the cloud clos’d into drop of rain & fell in a heavy shower to the ground but as it well known that bodys charg’d with Electricity never discharge the whole of it at one shock, so this cloud had not discharg’d all for as much Electricity as it had lost so much of the Cloud fell
f. 1v
fell down directly in rain & the small residium that remain’d held its portion of Cloud pendent in the air without raining which joind with larger ones that had just form’d & was then ready for another discharge2.d In fine weather when the wind was Easterly I observ’d the very reverse effect for I saw large Clouds one or two miles distance coming ^from over Cader Idris before the wind which were constantly breaking in pieces & disolving in the air & were quite disolv’d before the wind coud bring them over my head I have also been under clouds that were disolving & there was nothing like rain but when the Clouds touch the mountains I have seen them break & disolve quickest
3.d when this same Fine weather had continued some days when there was no cloud the sky was very pale owing to the mist in the air which so obscur’d the distant mountain that you cou’d see little more than
their outline (which ^this proves that the air does not hold
f. 2r
it ^quite in solution for if it did it wou’d be perfectly transparent) but directly some clouds came the sky round them & afterwards all over became quite bright & the distance more distinct4.th this weather with the same wind lasted about a fortnight on the first evening I saw no dew fallen on the second I perceiv’d a little on the third more which increas’d every evening till it became so thick that directly the sun was set it obscur’d the ground
& the morning were very foggy & every day the sky became more misty as in third observation this prov’d that every day the Sun rais’d a quantity of vapour which found not enough Electricity to support it in the night &
raise it up to the clouds, the Electricity being gradualy taken up from the Earth to form clouds during the fine weather towards the end there was so little left that almost all the vapour rais’d in the day fell down in the night
& produc’d those foggy morning
f. 2v
I give the following as laws1.st that no Cloud can be form’d or exist without Electricity
2.d that no Cloud can rain till it parts with some of its Electricity
3.d that it never can rain hail or snow unless the Electric state of the Earth is ^comparitively
negative, as the clouds must always be ^more or less positive according to the Theory of one Electric fluid
4.th that Electricity is the suspending power in Clouds b^y clothing each particle with an Electrical atmosphere ʘʘʘ
5.h that in fine weather the clouds are separating & in stormy weather uniting
6.th that water can exist permanently in 4 states & be in one temporary 2 by means of Electricity &
3 without it the first Electrical state is that of Cloud ^in which ^each particle
is so much charg’d ʘʘ as to become lighter than air at the surface of the Earth the second is a complete saturation or solution of water in the Electric fluid which produces a transparent
& elastic fluid light enough to float above the highest Cloud the first plain state is Ice the second is liquid the ▲ third which is quite temporary is
^steam vapour for directly the supply of heat which was raising it is stopt it begins to lose that heat & falls back into its first state of Water.